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SHOOK S GUIDE 



FOR 



STOCK BREEDERS 



PLAIN. MODERN, PRACTICAL WORK 



GIVING THE 



ORIGIN, DEVELOPMENT, _/ND PRESENT CO^DITiO^ 



AMERICAN STOCK, 



AS WELL AS FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BREEDING, REARING, AND 
MANAGEMENT OF THE SAME, 

TOGETHER WITH 

A VAST AMOUNT OF VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION FOR 
STOCKMEN, AND A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON 

HOG CHOLERA, SWINE FEVER, 



AND THE VARIOUS DISEASES OF DOMESTIC ANIMALS, AND THE 
PROPER TREATMENT , FOR THE SAME. 

By J. B. SHOOK. 



COLUMBUS, O.: 

SHOOK'S STOCK REMEDY CO., 

Publishers. 

1887, 



/9v §-?> -S 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885. 

By J, B. SHOOK, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. D. C. 

All Rights Reserved. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, 

By SHOOK'S STOCK REMEDY CO., 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

All Rights Reserved. 



Press of N"itschke Bros. Surguy & Co., Electrotypers. 

Columbus, O. 




UTO JflHE 

flMEI^IGAN FAP.MEP.S AND SWOG^ BREEDERS, 

I RESPECT PULdiY DEDICATE 

©HIS Q50P^. 

DEYOWED TO JPHEIP^ INJPEP.ESW AMD SERVICE. 



$*{fc*$ 



PREFACE. 



The object of the author in offering this work to 
the public is to furnish to American stockmen a mod- 
ern, concise, and reliable treatise on the breeding and 
rearing of domestic animals, and the proper treatment 
of their diseases. 

In this work, especial attention has been given to 
the diseases of swine and poultry, as the experience of 
the author has shown him that such diseases as Hog 
Cholera, Swine Fever, and similar diseases, and the 
various diseases of poultry, and the proper treatment 
of the same, are less understood than the ailments of 
other animals, and their treatment. 

Believing that no disease exists for which nature 
has failed to supply the proper remedy, the author, 
many years since, began the study of these diseases, 
and the success which has attended his treatment of 
the same, has fully confirmed his teachings, that do- 
mestication should not be allowed to change the physi- 
cal condition of swine, and that artificial means should 
be employed to supply what nature requires. Intelli- 
gently acting upon this belief, the author has demol- 
ished many old theories, and a simple, practical, and 
efficient course of treatment for swine and poultry 
has superceded the unsuccessful methods usually em- 
ployed. 

The increasing demand for information concerning 
the modern methods of breeding and rearing domestic 
animals, also as to their diseases and treatment, es- 
pecially those of swine, render a work of this kind in- 
dispensable as a book of reference. 



b PREFACE. 

The opportunity which the author has had to gather 
information by reading and observation, as well as his 
years of practice in breeding and handling stock, and 
his many years' experience and extensive practice in 
the field, in the treating of diseased swine and other 
stock, has enabled him to give to the public a work 
which, in his judgment, will fully meet the require- 
ments of the American stockmen. 

The author, in this work, has given to the public, 
not only his own ideas, but has, in many instances, 
furnished good, practical suggestions from prominent 
writers, as well as the modes of treatment practiced 
and the remedies used by some of the most learned 
veterinarians and scientists in the land. 

It is written in plain English, and is free from 
technicalities, which so frequently blind the average 
reader. Common terms are used in describing symp- 
toms, treatment, and remedies, enabling any one to 
readily understand the nature of all the diseases and 
how to treat them; thus peculiarly adapting it to the 
wants of the farmer and stock-breeder. 

It has been condensed into the smallest possible 
space, thus avoiding all superfluous reading, and the 
contents so arranged that any subject can be found at 
a glance, and the information wanted quickly and 
easily obtained. 

By a careful examination of this work it can readily 
be seen that it contains a plain, practical, modern and 
improved treatment of all the various diseases of swine 
and poultry never before published either through 
Stock or Veterinary works, formulas or through the 
press; arid that it will bear the most critical examina- 
tion, as well as the severest test. 

There is no other work of this kind published — 
within my knowledge — upon which there has been so 
much time and practical experience spent in its com- 



PREFACE. i 

pletion, nor none sold and tried under as severe tests, 
and is as highly endorsed and recommended by such an 
array of men of practical experience. Several hundred 
of my swine treatise in pamphlet and book form, were 
sold as a test to farmers and swine breeders, with the 
understanding that they could read and test the work, 
and if not satisfactory they could return them. Nine- 
ty-eight percent of them were kept and highly endorsed. 
And now that my work is revised, improved and sim- 
plified, I hope it will give universal satisfaction. 

During my extensive practice in treating diseased 
swine, which has brought me in pleasant intercourse 
with many of the most prominent breeders and exten- 
sive feeders, as well as intelligent farmers, and in sin- 
cere appreciation of their names and influence in com- 
mendation and endorsement of my system of treat- 
ment, or in testimony of services in treating their dis- 
eased swine, I would to them, courteously inscribe this 
volume. 




PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 



Having made arrangements with Professor J. B. 
Shook, for the publication and sale of his work, as 
well as the manufacture and sale of his swine and 
poultry remedies, also for his services to treat di- 
seased herds of swine when requested, we wish to 
respectfully inform the public of these facts, and 
say, that they can rely upon Prof. Shook, promptly 
attending all calls, where expenses are guaranteed, 
or the instructions as given in this book giving en- 
tire satisfaction. 

This book, if carefully read and studied, will be 
found a practial educator for the general farmer or 
those interested in stock. It will not only teach them 
how to successfully treat all the fatal diseases to which 
our domestic animals are now subject, but also, to in- 
telligently discuss any subject pertaining to them; as, 
to where and how the breeds originated and their char- 
acteristics, which are subjects of great importance to 
those contemplating or already engaged in handling 
stock of any kind. For being well educated in this 
line, as well as any other, we can often save serious 
mistakes. 

If a man empties his purse into his head no man 
can take it away from him An investment in knowl- 
edge always pays the best interest. — Franklin. 

For the protection of the public, as well as the repu- 
tation of the author, this work will be sold by subscrip- 
tion, by responsible agents who deal directly with the 
publishers, and who will be furnished with the proper 
credentials. As none but men of character will be 
employed, persons buying can confidently rely upon 
the authenticity of the book published. 

SHOOK'S STOCK REMEDY CO, 

COLUMBUS. O 



CONTENTS. 



SWINE DEPARTMENT, 



CHAPTER I. 

HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 

The first introduction of swine into America — their characteristics — 

mode of living and their health 21 

How they became benefactors 22 

Their improvement and health 22, 23 

Blood, confinement and corn 23 

The Germ Theory 24 

CHAPTER II. 

IMPROVED SWINE. 

The first improvement of swine 27 

Names of the different breeds, their origin and characteristics .... 27, 37 

Magie — Poland China — Chester White 28 

Durock, Jersey Red or Tarn worth 31 

Berkshire • 32 

Victoria . . 33 

Yorkshire — Suffolk — Essex 34 

Chinese hog, its influence 35 

What breed of hogs to use 37 

CHAPTER III. 

SWINE BREEDING. 

Swine breeding a science 39 

Selecting sows as breeders 40 

Boar, selection of 42 

Judging hogs — English rule 43 

Breeding sows, the best time 45 

One litter a year better than two 46 

Exceptions to the general rule 48 

Fall pigs and how to winter them 49 

Make them comfortable .... • 50 

Pigs best for clover 51 

Old view not correct 51 

Corn alone for hogs is wrong 52 



10 CONTENTS. 

Plenty of drink and good 53 

How to keep swill warm 53 

A case of cooking that pays 53 

Mixed husbandry 54, 77 

CHAPTER IV. 

THE BOAR, BROOD SOWS, PIGS, AND HOW TO : CARE FOR THEM. 

The boar and his care 55 

The brood sows — when to put them up 56 

When and how to feed them 57, 58 

Notes worth mentioning 59 

Teach the young pigs to eat 60 

Keep them from robbing each other 60 

Treatment of suckling pigs 64 

Weaning pigs at an early age ' 68 

The time to castrate pigs — save the sows 69 

Care of pigs after being weaned 70 

Good things repeated 71 

CHAPTER V. 

FATTENING SWINE. 

The most profitable age to fatten swine 74, 78 

Farmer A's and B's experience 74, 75 

Mixed husbandry 54, 77 

Times have changed 78 

How to feed fattening hogs, and their food 80 

When to commence feeding corn 80 

Winter feeding, food and care 81 

Neglect of farmers or feeders 82 

How much pork will a bushel of corn make? 83 

Grinding and cooking food 84 

Feeding hogs for a special purpose 87 

Professor Saborn's experiments. 89 

CHAPTER VI. 

PURELY BRED SWINE. 

Pedigreed swine — registers 91, 93 

A good time to buy purely bred swine 94 

Show pens — that fine pig and its care 95, 96 

Do not go to much on the color 97 

Where to keep the young boar 98 

Breeding swine for breeding purposes 99 

This business demands a good profit. 100 

Cro^) of Poland Chinas 100 

• i to breed the sows 102 

Take care of the brood sows and pigs 103 

I" it ting swine for exhibition or sale 104 



CONTENTS. 1 1 
CHAPTER VII. 

SELECTIONS OF SUBJECTS. 

Improved and scrub stock 106 

Fixing the characteristics of a breed of hogs 108 

An illustration how to form a breed 110 

In-and-in breeding 11 2 

Merit, pedigree and color 113 

Roots, vegetables, etc., for swine 114 

Growing pumpkins with corn 116 

Rye, pasture for hogs 118, 119 

Ringing hogs 120 

Stock catcher and holder 121 

Directions for using it 123 

CHAPTER VIH. 

BUTCHERING AND CURING THE MEAT. 

Preparing to butcher 124 

Rack to hang hogs on 125 

A regular system of killing and cleaning hogs 126 

How a pig suddenly became pork 126 

Killing and cleaning hogs 127 

How to clean the intestines 129 

Cutting up the hogs 130 

Preparing the lard and sausage s 131 

Preparing and curing meats 132 

A dry salt and quick sugar cure 133 

Brine for pork or beef 134 

CHAPTER IX. 

HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 

Hog houses or pens are necessary 136 

Building disigns 139, 142, 145 

A bath box for hogs 144 

Movable pig house 146 

Troughs for hogs 150 

CHAPTER X. 

PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASE. 

Cholera, swine fever, its causes 152 

Certain breeds cholera proof 153 

Common errors in feeding 154 

Wheat stubble pasture 154 

Confinement, bad food and water 156 

Straw stacks, manure heaps and barns 157 

A different system needed 158 

Trichinae in pork 160 



12 CONTENTS. 

Infectious or contagious character of swine disease 163 

Danger arising from streams or pools 164 

Danger in exposure of the dead hogs 165 

Period between exposure and attack 166 

CHAPTER XI. 

INVESTIGATIONS OF SWINE DISEASE. 

Investigations by the government 168 

Reattacks of cholera 161, 169, 213 

How hog cholera, swine fever effects the lungs. 170 

When the death rates increase 170 

Intestine and lung worms 172 

Opponents of the germ theory 172 

Vitality of swine germ 174 

Crowding in confined spaces under barns 175 

Drains, manure pits, etc 176 

Extracts from Prof. James Law 174 

Summer the most dangerous season 177 

Dry earth as a disinfectant 178 

Beneficial preventives 179 

Theoretical and practial ideas 180 

CHAPTER XII. 

TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

Introduction .• 183 

Cholera, swine fever „ 185 

General treatment, observe its causes 186 

When medicine fails. ..... 187 

Seperation and grading of the sick 188 

Exercise and air 189 

Next thing is when to feed the hogs 190 

How to prepare the feed 191 

Length of time it takes to cure sick hogs 192 

As a preventative 193 

Treatment for general use 193 

For pigs or hogs with scours 194 

How to drench 195 

Injections 195 

External applications 196 

Rheumatism liniment 197 

Tonic powder as a preventative 198 

Treatment of sows with pigs 199 

Objections to pens 200 

Incurable cases. 200 

Directions for medicine repeated „ 200 

Why my treatment is a success 202 



CONTENTS. 13 
CHAPTER XIII. 

LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

Local diseases, thumps — palpitation 204 

Pneumonia — lung fever 205 

Sore throat, diptheria, strangles 205 

Kidney diseases, paralysis 20G 

Blind staggers, founder and rheumatism 207 

Snuffles, catarrh and piles 208 

Intestine worms, sweating pigs and scours 209 

Blood poison, scrofula and mange 210 

Lice and their effects, 211 

Prevention is better than a cure 2i2 

Hints as to feeding 212 

Black teeth, and smutt poison 214 



POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 



CHAPTER XIV 

PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

Poultry raising 218 

Improving breeds 222 

Light Brahmas 223 

The old blue hen 224 

Plymouth Rocks 225 

American Dominicks, poultry investments „ 226 

Careful selections 228 

Cull the flock, Game fowels 230 

Incubators their value 231 

How to feed fowels 232 

Partridge Coachin 234 

Nest for hens 236 

Poultry in the garden and orchard ....."' 237 

Sunflower seed, poulty houses 238 

Good and poor eggs 241 

Eggs, how to preserve them 242 

Medicated nest eggs 242 

Eggs, their weight; lice 243 

Ducks, their houses 245 

Raising geese 247 

Our national turkey 248 

Bronze turkeys 249 

Diseased poultry 250 

Cholera, how to tell the sick , 251 



14 CONTENTS. 

Roup, gapes 254 

Scurvey Legs 255 



SHEEP DEPARTMENT, 



CHAPTER XV. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

Sheep husbandry 255 

Why wool growers do not fail 256 

Forage consumed by sheep 258 

Selecting a ram; ewes, when to breed them 262, 268 

Coupling season 261 

Information as to breeding 263 

Grade Cotswold lambs 263 

Lambs, their care; castration, methods 265 

Weaning lambs; mutton breeds 266 

Southdowns and Hampshire-downs 267 

Merino; their value. 268 

What constitutes a good sheep 271 

How to breed up 272 

Cotswolds : 266, 271 

Suggestions as to feed and care , 272 

Things to be remembered 275 



CATTLE DEPARTMENT. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

Cattle industry of America 280 

Shorthorns, their value 281, 283 

Herefords, Polled Angus, and Galloways 285 

Holstein, Holland or Friesian 286 

Alderneys, Jerseys, Guernseys 289 

Noted cows £or milk and butter 289 

Noted large steers 292 

How to select breeders 295 

Controlling, influence of parents 296 

Handling stock, what it is 298 

Breeding from show herds 298 

Science of in-and-in breeding 299 

Stock raising the most profitable 303 



CONTENTS. 15 

Growing or feeding cattle 305 

Water for stock during winter. . . 308 

Feeding cattle upon grass 310 

Selecting feeders and their care . . .. 312 

Bull and his care T 314 

Cows and calves, their care 315 

Improper milking, its danger 317 

Removing calves, what age 317 

First year of calves, their care 319 

Age heifers should calve 321 

Unruly milkers, how to milk 323 

CHAPTER XVII. 

MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

Dairying with profit 325 

The best dairy cattle, what breed 326 

Holsteins, their value 327 

Jerseys, their value 328 

How to judge a cow, their form 329 

Stabling cows, its necessity 331 

Extra ventilation rarely, but bedding more necessary 334 

How to feed and milk cows 336 

How to produce a large flow of milk 337 

Making and packing butter 339, 342 



HORSE DEPARTMENT. 



CHAPTER XVIH. 

THE DIFFERENT BREEDS OF HORSES AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS. 

The ancient horse 346 

The Canadian Kanuck 347 

The Thoroughbred 349 

Race course 351 

The American trotter 354 

The founder of trotters 354 

Prominent sons and grandsons of Imported Messenger 355 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian ■ 356 

Imported Bellfounder 358 

Mambrino Chief 359 

Mambrino Hambletonian 360 

The Morgan family 361 

The Bashas, Clays, and Patchens 362 

Messenger Durock and the pacing element 363 

Draft horses, Normans < 364 



16 CONTENTS. 

Clydesdale, English Cart or Shire 368 

Cleveland Bay 368 

CHAPTER XIX. 

THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE . 

The art or science of breeding 372 

Rules and errors in breeding 373, 375 

Breeding trotting horses 377 

Speed an essential point 380 

A standard-bred and standard trotter 381 

The great brood mare families 388 

Popular sires of trotters 382 

Noted brood mares 387 

Trotting records of 2 :14 or less 393 

Pacing records of 2:14 or less 396 

Fastest records, trotting or pacing, all distances — all ways going.. 396 

Trotting to wagon; under saddle 398 

Trotting and pacing; double teams 399 

Trotting with running mate .• 399 

Pacing in harness, under saddle, and to wagon 399 

Pacing with running mate 400 

Breeding draft horses 400 

Clydesdale Stallion 403 

Why they raise good horses' in foreign countries. . , 407 

Pacers as saddle horses 408 

General purpose horse 410 

What constitutes good carriage horses 411 

Introducing stallions 414 

CHAPTER XX. 

GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

Management of stallion 417 

His feed, care, and education. 418, 419 

When to try mares; uncertain breeders 421, 422 

Number of mares served 423 

American trotting horse 425 

Stallion's age, its effect upon his get; care of mares and colts 427 

Rules to be observed in breeding 429 

Their care after foaling; weaning time 431, 432 

When to castrate colts 434 

Feeding, watering, and grooming horses 435, 437 

Practical suggestions; horses or mules 439, 442 

Improving the disposition of horses 443 

Shoeing horses 445 

Paring and spreading the foot; interfering 447, 448 



CONTENTS. 17 

Striking the knees; shoeing the hinder feet; forging 449 

Shoeing colts; bar shoes 450 

Colts or horses from grass; stopping the feet 451 

Horses without shoes; stables for horses 452, 454 

Training department; ground floors best 457 

CHAPTER XXI. 

EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

Education of horses 461 

What we should remember „ „ 462 

Careful training of horses 463 

Timid horses 464 

How to halter and educate the colt. : 467 

To bit and guide the colt 468 

How to learn a colt to stop or stand 469 

To mount the wild colt or unsafe horse 470 

Working the colt in shafts ; kickers and runaways 471 

Training the mouth , 473 

Wild and unsteady horses 474 

Driving horses; fast walking horses 475 

Speeding horses , 476 

Vicious, restless, and tricky horses . , 477 

Balky horses 478 

CHAPTER XXIL 

VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

Introduction 481 

Symptoms of diseases and how to know them 483 

Colic, spasmodic and flatulent „ 484 

Botts, dysentery, and scours 486 

Pneumonia, inflammation of lungs 487 

Over-exertion and profuse staling 488 

Chills, colds, and distemper 489 

Epizootic and pinkeye „ 490 

Heaves and glanders , . . . . 491 

Paralysis, spinal meningitis, and how to bleed a horse 493 

Fistula and poll-evil 494 

Bone; bog or blood spavins; thorough-pins 495 

Ring-bone; curbs; cribbing — wind-sucking 496 

Lampas, scratches, grease-heel, and thrush 497 

Dressing for feet; injured feet 498 

Founder; corns; sweeney — atrophy 499 

Sprained tendons, swelled leg and ankles; surfeit; mange and farcey 500 

Lice; hide-bound; galls or boils 501 

Blind or wolf teeth. 502 

Valuable eye-wash; Cataract l"^:Ja n r.t 503 



18 



CONTENTS. 



Cooling lotion for legs or body 501 

Foot oil; removing callouses; thrush oil and May-apple liniment.... 505 

Corrosive liniment; worms; Worm powder 506 

Fever powder; Cough powder 507 

Condition and Cleansing powders, and Dexter liniment 508 

Healing powders: how to produce perspiration; sprained stiff! e or 
whirl-bone; how to stop flow of joint water: sore mouth and 

tongue . . . . . 509 

Sweating liniment; Tonic preparation 510 

Golden ointment; Golden liniment 511 

Choking horse; broken tail; lock-jaw . . . 512 

Big head or jaw. ...... = • • • ■..-... • 513 

Parturition — giving birth 514 

Inflammation of the womb and diseased or injured colts 515 

Wounds or cuts, their care 516 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

Sore eyes, their treatment 517 

Scotch powder; hoven; milk fever or garget 518 

Milk fever and its cause 519 

Abortion with cows 520 

Cow-pox, choke, their treatment . 521 

Egat, smut poison, or murrain ........ 522 

Black leg, its danger 523 

Foot and mouth diseases .'. . . . . 524 

Pleuro-pneumonia; hide-bound. . . 525 

Urinary trouble; scours with calves or lambs. 526 

Grub in sheep; maggots . 526 

Scab in sheep . 527 

Hoof or foot rot 528 



©= 



Kb 



©= 



E© 



THE 



ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT 



OF 



American Swine, 



FROM 1609 TO 1887. 



A TREATISE ON BREEDING, REARING AND FATTENING OF SWINE, 
WITH INFORMATION AS TO THE BEST METHODS OF BUTCH- 
ERING CUTTING AND CURING THE MEAT, TOGETHER WITH A 
REVIEW OF THE PREVAILING CAUSES OF THE VARIOUS 
DISEASES TO WHICH THEY ARE SUBJECT, AND THE MOST 
EFFECTIVE MODERN TREATMENT THEREOF. 



CHAPTEE I. 



HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 



The First Importation of Swine— Their Characteristics— Mode 
of Living and Their Health — How They Became Benefactors 
—Their Improvement and Health— The Germ Theory. 




THE FIRST IMPORTATION OF SWINE. 

JTE first swine in America, according to history, 
were brought by Columbus in 1493, then by De 
Soto to Florida in 1538, and then in 1609 some 
were brought to Virginia, direct from England. The 
congeniality of the climate favoring the rapid increase, 
and from being so worthless that no one cared to 
possess or use them, in less than twenty years they 
had so increased about Jamestown as to be a public 
nuisance, and to have made it necessary to fence the 
settlement against them. Other lots of hogs were 
afterwards brought to the colonies from Europe, and 
later to the States. They were seldom bred with much 
care, and in some localities became almost as trouble- 
some as they had been at Jamestown in 1627; for, as 
history goes to show, very strict laws were in force in 
a great many places as to killing them, as they were 
useful as food for the settlers, and also in riding the 
country of snakes and other poisonous reptiles. 

As the tide of emigration moved westward, the 
hog went with it as one of the means of food supply 
in the new settlements. There is no record of those 
early times to show that civilization had as yet taken 



22 HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 

hold of "His Lordship/' the American hog, in any 
great degree. On the contrary, we find that, as of old, 
he often went wild when opportunities for doing so 
were offered him. As late as 1828, according to 
history, large numbers roamed the wild woods of Ohio 
and Indiana, far from all human dwellings, where 
they grew very fat upon the abundance of oak and 
beech mast, and in some parts, where great numbers 
were allowed to run almost wild about the settlements, 
a triangular yoke was placed around the neck, to keep 
them from breaking through the fences. 

HOW THEY BECAME BENEFACTORS. 

In the problem of subduing the great territories 
of unimproved lands west of the Allegheny Moun- 
tains, the hog was destined to become an important 
factor. The immense forests and heavy mast, the 
fertile valleys along the rivers and streams, and the 
broad, rich prairies of the uplands between, produced 
corn in the greatest abundance. One of the most 
ready means of disposing of these vast crops was the 
feeding of them to hogs and then driving them to 
market, and as late as the year 1840 they were 
gathered together in large droves from the forests 
and feed lots of Ohio and driven to Philadelphia, or 
packed and then shipped upon flat-boats to New 
Orleans. Efforts were made from time to time to im- 
prove the feeding capacity of the breed by the intro- 
duction of better feeding stock from the Eastern 
Hemisphere, chiefly from Europe, and the success of 
those efforts have been that we have exceeded the weight 
of the "old elm peeler" at one-half the age; but as to 
what effect this improvement has had upon the health 
and constitution of the hog, I will endeavor to show. 

My object in repeating, in the way of an intro- 
duction, this often told story of when and how the 
hog was first introduced into America, and the way 



HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 23 

he was raised and fattened in those days, is to once 
more recall to mind that for about three hundred and 
fifty years under such treatment, such a thing as hog 
disease was entirely unknown. It was only when we 
began to improve and civilize the hog that he be- 
came subject to all the ills and ailments known to 
civilization, and sickened and died. When they were 
allowed to roam at large over the wild wood and 
prairie, and develop more slowly, building up the bone 
and muscular system first, before being fed upon corn, 
disease of any kind was unknown to them. 

BLOOD, CONFINEMENT, AND CORN. 

It was only when the improvement of swine was 
begun, and after considerable progress in that line had 
been made, then by confining them, thus depriving 
them of the wild range and the roots and herbs that 
nature supplied and instinct taught them to hunt, 
without being supplied with any artificial substitute 
to take their place, and the constant exclusive feeding 
of corn from the time the pig will eat it until he is 
taken to market, that they became diseased. While 
none of us might be willing to go back to the old 
fashioned nog to once more have health among our 
swine, yet I wish to offer the suggestion that this 
alone should prove to any breeder or feeder of swine, 
that the way to raise them is as near like nature as 
possible, (for I believe the constant confinement of 
swine in any form, produces many of the ills to 
which hog flesh is heir). Corn may be the princi- 
pal food, but along with it should be fed shorts, 
oats, oil-cake, milk or slops of any kind, vegetables, 
weeds or grass, and they should have plenty of exer- 
cise in the pure air, with ''fresh water and clean 
mud." The first and the most important object to 
the breeder or feeder is the health and constitutional 



24 HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAY£. 

vigor of his stock, and in the way I have indicated, it 
can be best secured. 

It is of the utmost importance to successful swine 
breeding and fattening, that attention should be given 
to the development of growth as well as fat. It is of 
so much importance and yet it is so largely neglected 9 
that we deem it prudent to refer to it frequently. The 
swine of this country have been greatly injured by our 
very prevalent system of feeding by the crowding and 
forcing process to which they have long been subjected. 

THE GERM THEORY. 

If the very generally accepted theory of disease is 
correct, such a course can but result in making the 
hog an easy prey to disease. The parasitic or germ 
theory depends upon the system, human or animal, 
being vulnerable to the attacks of the parasites or 
germs. If the system is perfectly strong in every 
part, disease cannot find a lodgment in it. In general, 
parasites do not seek a particular organ because they 
prefer that organ, but because it is weak enough to 
allow their depredations. There is no part of the skin 
that they would not attack, if it were vulnerable, and 
the blood was in such condition as to favor their 
depredations. But the skin is able to resist, and 
hence they seek the weaker membranes and muscular 
tissues. It is, perhaps, impossible for us to keep our 
animals or ourselves in such strict accordance with the 
laws of nature as to prevent sickness, and hence dis- 
ease and death from disease are in the world and are 
more or less active. But we can and should live up 
to the knowledge that we have. We know that if a 
child's bones are weak, it may not only lead to de- 
formity, but that the child is not vigorous. This is 
just as true with the animal, though it may not show 
it as plainly as would the child. If a hog has never 
been furnished with material with which to build up 



HISTOEY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 25 

its bony and muscular system, it is practically in a 
diseased condition all the time. If the same state of 
affairs existed with an animal of less vigorous diges- 
tion, it would go to pieces and become a wreck at 
once. But the hog's digestive apparatus will often 
keep working very successfully, while its system is a 
perfect bubble, ready to collapse at any moment. But 
no one should be surprised to find any or all of the 
organs of such a hog refusing to perform their offices 
at any time. Hence such an animal is constantly ex- 
posed to disease. Cholera, in some of its forms, 
breaks out in a herd and sweeps through the com- 
munity, and in most cases the learned veterinarian, or 
those whose services are sought, attributes the diffi- 
culty, in all probability, at once to uncleanly sur- 
roundings. But, as we have frequently had occasion 
to know, he is astonished when he arrives at the farm 
where the disease exists, to find everything as neat as 
a pin, and is dumfounded, and knows not to what 
cause to attribute the disease. As said before, our 
hogs, or other animals, may live in violation of the 
laws of nature, without our knowledge, and hence 
sicken or die under apparently the most intelligent 
treatment. But there can be no question at all that 
in the vast majority of cases in which the cholera ap- 
pears, where the surroundings are cleanly, the cause is 
too much corn and a constant unequal development 
of the system. Our unlimited supply of corn in this 
country has not been an unmixed blessing. It is so 
plentiful with us that we feed it in ruinous excess, 
even when we are not prompted to make a hog before 
the animal has ceased to be a pig, and there are 
millions of dollars lost every year through the sick- 
ness and death of animals that have been stuffed with 
this comparatively unnourishing, but fat producing 
and heat creating food. Fat, except in limited quan- 



26 HISTORY OF SWINE IN EARLY DAYS. 

tities, is not growth or an element of strength. It is 
a disease — -unquestionably a disease — because it is 
wholly useless, and not only that, but a burden. 
Whatever is useless in the economy of nature, is at 
variance with nature, and excessive fat is as useless 
as a wen on an animal, so far as the needs of the 
system go. 

Now, the constant exclusive feeding of corn from 
the time the pig will eat it until it is taken to the 
market, under our very bad system — as we think — 
of fattening hogs the first year, is a direct effort to 
create a diseased condition. It makes fat and nothing 
else. The bones and the muscles are not nourished, 
and they cannot be forced to maturity, except to a 
limited extent. They may be said to be forced when 
the animal is fed all the bone and- muscle forming 
food that it will assimilate, as distinguished from 
starving it, but there must be time allowed it for full 
development. The process cannot be hastened, except 
in a limited degree. But we can force fat whenever 
we wish to. We can fatten the pig, or fatten the hog, 
but in doing so, we should not neglect to furnish the 
animal with an artificial antidote which nature re- 
quires, to overcome the evil effects of this crowding 
process. The formula for the Swine Tonic Powder, as 
given with this book, contains the medical properties 
to fulfill the desired purpose. 



CHAPTER II. 



IMPROVED SWINE, 



The First Improvement of Swine — Names of the Different 
Breeds— Their Characteristics — The Chinese Hog — His Effects 
Upon Other Breeds— What Breed of Hogs to Use. 



THE FIRST IMPROVEMENT OF SWINE. 

IN the early history of swine-breeding in the Miami 
Valley in Ohio (for it was here, beyond doubt, 
that the greatest efforts were made to improve 
our swine), it is clear from the best authority that 
there were two breeds, the Russia and the Byfield. 

In 1816, the Shakers, of Union Village, Warren 
County, Ohio, purchased at Philadelphia, Pa., one boar 
and three sows, pure China, called big China hogs. 
The Shakers and other judicious breeders of Warren 
and Butler counties continued to use the breeds at 
command, and produced by repeated crosses a hog of 
exceedingly fine qualities for that period, known as 
the Warren County hog. This condition of the breeds 
continued until some time between 1835 and 1840, 
when the Berkshires and Irish Graziers were intro- 
duced. Some claim that the Berkshires were intro- 
duced first, and others the Irish Graziers. But let 
that be as it will, positive proof shows that these 
two breeds of hogs were crossed upon the hogs already 
produced by the cross of the China, Russia, and Byfield. 
This crossing of breeds continued for some time, 
until the breeders of swine in the Miami Valley settled 



28 IMPROVED SWINE. 

down to the conviction that the basis of a good breed 
of hogs had been established, and stimulated by their 
success, they have aimed to improve what they have 
been so successful in forming. All defective points or 
qualities have, as far as possible, been corrected or im- 
proved by care. Thus we have a breed thoroughly 
established, which can be relied upon for the produc- 
tion of like qualities and character in progeny. This 
breed of swine was formerly known as the Magie, or 
Butler County hog — having derived that name from 
David Magie, of Butler County, Ohio, who was one of 
the leading men in introducing this hog into the 
heavy feeding districts of the world — but was after- 
ward named by the Swine Breeders' Association, 
Poland-China. The best specimens of this improved 
breed, Poland-China, have good length, short, broad 
backs, straight on both lines, deep sides, very broad, 
full square hams and shoulders, drooping ears, short 
heads, slightly dish-faced, broad between the eyes, 
with a good coat of hair, and are of a dark, or spotted 
color. They are hardy, vigorous, and prolific. Their 
chief excellencies consist in their quiet disposition, 
and their susceptibility of being well fattened at any 
age, large growth when desirable, and a great amount 
of flesh laid on in proportion to the food consumed. 
They sometimes dress three hundred and fifty pounds 
when no older than ten months, and if kept until two 
or three years old, will often dress from six to nine 
hundred pounds; as a machine to turn corn into pork 
they have but few equals. 

THE CHESTER WHITE. 

The Chester White is a native of Chester County, 
Pennsylvania, where the breed originated. The first 
improvement in that county, according to history, was 
an introduction of a pair of white pigs from Bedford- 
shire, England, about 1820. They were crossed with 



IMPROVED SWINE. 31 

the common breeds of the locality, and by careful 
breeding and selections of the best progeny, and 
judicious crossing to improve points, the well formed, 
large, easily fattened, and pure white hog, known as 
the Chester White, has resulted. All hogs called 
Chester Whites are not of that breed. There are 
other characteristics besides color to be estimated in 
the true type. Some object to this breed as being too 
coarse in bone and texture of flesh; but if' they are of 
the true improved type, they are no coarser in bone or 
flesh than the other large breeds, and at any age ob- 
tain as great or greater size. But owing to their being 
white, they have never become as popular as the 
darker breeds; but this prejudice is fast disappearing, 
and they are becoming more popular. Of all breeds 
of swine, they are the most prolific breeders and best 
sucklers, and as now bred are splendid feeders. When 
crossed w T ith any other breed of hogs the results are 
good, and there is no other breed that marks their 
progeny better than the Chester White. Owing to 
this, many spurious animals have been sold for breed- 
ing purposes that were not purely bred. 

THE DUROCK, OR JERSEY RED. 

According to history, the origin of this breed is not 
positively known, they having been bred in England 
as well as this country for a great many years. In 
England they are known as the Tamworth hog, and in 
some parts of America as the red Berkshire; but hav- 
ing been bred in New Jersey for more than fifty years, 
that is claimed as their home, and from this they re- 
ceived the name, Jersey Reds. But in 1884 they were 
named Durocks. They vary in color from a dark to a 
sandy red, and like the Poland-China, are docile and 
easily kept fat at any age, and in general make-up 
resemble that hog very much. The ear has been the 
most objectionable feature, being very large; but 



32 IMPROVED SWINE. 

judicious breeding has refined them in this and some 
other respects, and they now are considered one of the 
best grazing and feeding breeds in the world, and 
always bring the top price in the pork market. They 
are prolific and hardy, with the best constitution, and 
when matured become very heavy, often weighing 
from six hundred to one thousand pounds; but their 
average weight, at any age, is about that of the 
Poland-China, or Chester White. 




THE BERKSHIRE. 

The earliest account we have of the Berkshire hog 
is, that is he is believed to have sprung from the old 
or native English hog, and the county of Berks, in the 
south of England, is credited as his home. Here he 
has been known from time immemorial.' Here he un- 
derwent those changes in form and feeding capacity, 
that the Poland-China, Chester White, and other im- 
proved breeds did in their native homes; and from 
here he went forth to other parts of the United King- 
dom, and throughout the civilized world. The high 
estimation in which he is held is shown by the fre- 
quent mention of his use as a means of improving 
other swine. He is credited with being used to im- 
prove almost every popular breed of swine known. 
This has been a fashionable breed for farmers of this 
country, there having been much speculative fever in 



IMPROVED SWINE. 33 

the past, and a great many, imported and native-bred, 
have been sold throughout America at fabulous prices. 
The color is black, with white on feet, face, tip of tail, 
and an occasional splash of white on arm; a small 
spot of white on any other portion of the body is not 
accepted as evidence of impurity of blood, yet the 
color is generally uniform and markings the same. 
He is dish-faced, with small neat head, short neck, 
thin, erect ears, broad, short back, deep sides and well 
rounded hams, small bone, but strong, and of the best 
quality. He is very thin-haired, but a breed of great 
muscular power and vitality, with strong digestive 
powers, Very hardy, a quick maturer, and when ten or 
twelve months old, usually weighs about three hundred 
pounds. As a rustler he has but few equals, and is 
therefore an economical breed to turn the produce of 
the farm into marketable flesh. The pigs are smart 
and active .at birth, fatten readily at any age, and pro- 
duce the finest quality of pork. They are not so large 
as the Poland-China, Chester White, or Durock, but 
are superior to them in quality of flesh, it being finer 
and better marbled, and the best meat for home use. 

THE VICTORIA. 

This breed of swine was originated in Lake County, 
Indiana, by Mr. Geo. F. Davis, and was formed by the 
crossing of four distinct breeds of hogs, viz.: Poland- 
China, Chester White, Berkshire, and Suffolk. They 
are very fine of bone and quality, and are good hogs 
for crossing on the large breeds, as they possess great 
power of transmitting their color and fine quality, 
when bred to other breeds. They are white in color, 
with occasional dark spots in the skin, and have a good 
coat of hair; stand very firm on their feet and have an 
excellent constitution. They have small, neat heads, 
dish-face, thin ears, short legs, broad, straight backs, 
strong bone ? deep sides, and excellent hams. The 



34 IMPROVED SWINE. 

quality of their meat cannot be surpassed, even by the 
Berkshire or Essex. They are as hardy as any of the 
black breeds, good grazers, quick maturers, and fatten 
readily at any age. When twelve or fourteen months 
old they will weigh three hundred and fifty or four 
hundred pounds. They are prolific, and good sucklers 
and mothers, and the pigs are very hardy, 

THE YORKSHIRE. 

Like the Berkshire, is a foreign breed, but not so pre- 
valent in this country as other breeds. They are 
white with a good coat of hair, firm skin, and hardy 
constitution. They are of good length, with short 
legs, and very dish-faced, positive in their crossings, 
are prolific breeders, and fatten readily, and no doubt 
it would be an improvement to have more of them 
introduced in most parts of America. 

THE SUFFOLK. 

This breed is not so great a favorite with the 
farmer, nor so frequently met with. Popular opinion 
is, that they are delicate in constitution, and not so 
valuable to cross with other breeds. They are small, 
thin-haired, with tender skin, but this may be the re- 
sult of errors in breeding, and might be obviated, as 
has been done, with other more popular breeds. They 
are a quiet hog, and fatten very readily. For a hog 
for the small farmer, gardener, or mechanic to fatten 
for their own use, they have no superior. Any one 
contemplating buying this breed of hogs for breeding 
purposes should use some care, as they are scarcer 
than most breeds in their pure state. 

THE ESSEX. 

The Essex hog, like the Berkshire, is of English 
blood, and its general characteristics are about the 
same. In color it is black, without any white mark- 
ings, and is heavy-haired. It is smaller, and this has 




DUROCK OR JERSEY RED. 




IMPROVED CHESTER WHITE. 



IMPROVED SWINE. 35 

prevented its general introduction, as the American 
farmer demands a larger machine, in the form of a 
hog, to consume his corn. The flesh of the Essex, 
like the Berkshire, is well marbled, the lean and fat 
being intermixed, and of the most excellent quality. 
The sows are good sucklers, but the pigs are delicate in 
infancy, and must have good attention for a few days 
to prevent loss, or at least such is the general opinion. 

THE CHINESE HOG. 

No influence, aside from those of selection and 
nutrition, has been so powerful in effecting improve- 
ment in our breeds of swine as that of the infusion of 
the blood of the Chinese variety. In fact it is, per- 
haps, not claiming too much for the influence of this 
cross to assert, that it has formed the basis for all our 
modern improved breeds of swine. Its influence has 
transformed the long-legged, elephantine-eared, coarse- 
boned, gigantic hog of old England into the heavy- 
jowled, short-legged, compact, early maturing Berk- 
shire, Essex, Poland-China, Small Yorkshire, and 
Suffolk of to-day. Almost every litter dropped from 
sows of any of our improved breeds contains a liv- 
ing witness to the prepotency of this blood, in the 
shape of one or more members of the family that 
shows a decided tendency to revert to the original 
Chinese type. 

How long the Chinese hog has held the type 
which, since our knowledge of the domestic animals 
of that country began, we know he has retained with- 
out any preceptible modification, is, and always will 
continue to be, a matter of mere conjecture. Its civil- 
ization, such as it is, is older than that of any other 
country of which we have any knowledge, and it is 
quite likely that its breed of swine ante-dates, in its 
origin, that of any other race of domestic animals 
known to Europe or America. 



36 IMPROVED SWINE. 

The distinguished characteristic of the Chinese hog 
is the facility with which he converts everything he 
eats into fat. From the time he is a week old, until 
the day of his death, the Chinese pig or hog is fat. 
If kept in the same pen with others, even of our best 
varieties, and with feed barely sufficient to sustain life 
in them, the Chinese pig is fat; and when slaughtered, 
no matter at what age, the butcher finds him a mass 
of fat. 

The early workers for the improvement of the 
swine of the British Islands were not slow in discover- 
ing the vast superiority of the Chinese hog in this re- 
spect over their own native breeds, and the cross was 
early resorted to and extensively used. The purely- 
bred, or imported China hogs, were found to be ill 
adapted to the climate of the British Islands or the 
United States, and their flesh was not prized because 
of the superabundance of fat; but improvement, 
effected by crossing them upon the coarser breeds of 
England, made them marketable, and none of the 
various foreign crosses introduced by English breeders 
have left so marked an impress upon the stock of 
that country. 

The shape of the Chinese hog is peculiar; the 
body is long; legs short, back long and swaying toward 
the center, the belly nearly touching the ground; jowls 
very heavy; ears rather small, standing out from the 
head, but not drooping; head and nose short, and very 
broad between the eyes; neck short; color white or 
black, or a mixture of both, but usually the white 
predominating. As before remarked, every breeder of 
improved swine may occasionally see among any of 
the modern breed, no matter how purely bred, speci- 
mens that very nearly approach the Chinese type — 
and which, from the very earliest days of their pig- 
hood, manifest the characteristic tendency of their 



IMPROVED SWINE. 37 

Chinese ancestry to become fat, no matter how they 
may be kept — a silent but constant attestation of the 
influence of the Chinese blood coming down through 
many generations, but ever tending to re-assert itself, 
and revert to its original type. 

W T HAT BREED OF HOGS TO USE. 

In deciding this question every person must be 
governed by the location. There is no one breed of 
hogs adapted to all sections of the country or situa- 
tions. The diversity of crops and methods of feeding 
make this more noticeable, and as long as we overlook 
the facts, the more will we attempt to discover a better 
animal than those we have, which, fortunately, is not 
necessary. In the East, where the hog is given the 
range of a pasture, or in the South, where the forests 
are used for ranges, and corn is scarcer and higher 
than in the West, the smaller improved breeds, such 
as the Berkshire, Essex, Yorkshire, or Suffolk, would 
most likely prove the most valuable, as they are quick 
maturers and do not require so much feed. But in 
the West the system is somewhat different, for the hog 
is used as a means of converting the products of the 
farm into produce that is more profitable and easier 
transported. 

CORN THE MAIN CROP. 

In some sections corn is the great staple to the ex- 
clusion of all other crops, and it is often the case that 
it can not be grown profitably, and sold in that shape. 
What the Western farmer most desires, is a hog that 
is hardy ; that grows to a large size; that is easily fattened 
at any age, and is adapted to the climate, for his object 
is to feed his corn and sell the pork. For this pur- 
pose the larger breeds, such as the Poland-China ? 
Durock, Chester White, Victoria, or Berkshire, are the 
best adapted. There is not a great deal of difference 
now in the different breeds, except in the single mat- 



38 IMPROVED SWINE. 

ter of color. All the breeders of the various sorts of 
swine have had the same points in view, and have 
bred to the same form until they have been brought to 
substantially the same thing, except, as I have said, in 
the matter of color. If a few white spots are put on 
the model Berkshire of to-day he will make a pretty 
fair Poland-China, barring the erect ears. If you 
take all the white hairs from him and give him black 
ones instead, he will be a good Essex pig; and if you 
change all his hair white, he will make a good Suffolk, 
Yorkshire, or Victoria. You can make any sort of a 
hog you want in five years of crossing and selection. 
Our breeders have all been coming toward one point 
for a long time, and consequently, they have all sub- 
stantially reached about the same place. 



CHAPTER III. 



SWINE BREEDING, 



Swine Breeding a Science — How to Select Breeders— Select- 
ing Sows — The Boar and His Care — the Time to Breed - 
Exceptions to the Rule — Custom Among Heavy Breeders- 
One Litter a Year Better Than Two— Fall Pigs And How to 
Winter Them — Mixed Husbandry. 




SWINE BREEDING A SCIENCE. 

T the present age the breeding of swine, like the 
breeding of all other domestic animals, has be- 
come a science, and for various reasons it is not every 
person that can make it a success. The first element 
of success is a love for the business. There is no in- 
struction or rule of any kind that can be given which 
every one can or will follow; but for the benefit of 
those who may wish to learn from the experience of 
others, I will endeavor to give a few plain points which 
I have gathered by experience and observation, show- 
ing how to select breeders, to raise the best feeders, 
and to avoid diseases of all kinds to a great extent. 
To be successful in raising swine, there are several 
points on which the breeder should be very particular 
when selecting the stock from which his future herd 
and profits are to come, as a mistake at that juncture 
may deprive him of all chances of success, and eventu- 
ally drive him out of the business in poverty and 
disgust. 

The first and most essential thing to be considered, 
is the health and thrift of swine; therefore, in order to 



40 SWINE BREEDING. 

secure this, we must first look to the breeding animals. 
We should breed only from well-bred, well-matured^ 
thrifty, healthy stock, remembering that like begets 
like, and if the good qualities are transmitted, the evil 
ones are sure to be. 

SELECTING SOWS. 

In the selection of sows it will depend entirely 
upon what is expected of them. If it is desired to 
produce hogs for pork, instead of to sell for breeding 
purposes, it is neither necessary nor desirable that 
the sows be of any pure breed; but they should be 
good animals individually, and be known to be from 
good ancestors on both sides, about whose health, 
vigor, growthiness, and prolificacy there has been no 
question. Always select the largest, most growthy, 
and best sow for breeders. The main points are length, 
depth, and bone. They should be animals which, 
when well grown, will be of good size; big enough and 
roomy enough to hold and develop within themselves 
a reasonable litter of lusty, well-formed pigs. As to 
bone, it is not the size, so much as the quality, that is 
wanted. A good, clean, bony leg, with a hog, as well 
as with any other animal, is far better than a fleshy 
one. In selecting either sows or boars, notice closely 
whether they show a tendency to weakness in the 
ankles and feet. Some hogs stand up squarely on 
their feet, while others are extremely faulty in this re- 
spect, and sometimes before half grown are so broken 
down that they get about with great difficulty, and 
when fat and heavy can not stand up long enough to 
walk a short distance, and, consequently, have to be 
provided with conveyance whenever they are ready to 
be taken off the farm. "The model hog of any kind 
should not be so modeled that, when fat, its legs will 
not carry it to market, let that be one mile or fifty." 



SWINE BREEDING. 41 

Breeding from stock too young is not only in- 
jurious, but dangerous; before breeding, sows should be 
at least eight or nine months old. A great many 
breeders prefer to have them older, upon the theory 
that if bred too young it retards their growth, as they 
never develop as well as when bred older. Their true 
value as breeders can not well be known until they 
have been bred two or three times ; then they will be 
in their prime, and the best can be retained for still 
further and better service, and the unprofitable ones 
sent to fulfill their destiny. 

Among all breeds of swine there are families that 
are shy breeders, have small litters and give but little 
milk. Such should be shunned, as they are a source 
of much aggravation and profanity. While some sows 
have from twelve to sixteen pigs, I never saw one that 
could give anything near enough milk for that num- 
ber after they were a few days old, and I have come- 
to the conclusion that a sow that has and raises well 
from seven to ten pigs, three times in two years, is a 
prize to her owner which he can afford to cherish and 
nourish abundantly. Occasionally one does a little 
better, and a great many do as well, but millions fall 
far short of it. 

The age to which sows can be kept profitably de- 
pends upon how valuable they may be. Most breeders 
prefer to put them off the third or fourth year, as then 
they are liable to become very heavy and sometimes 
feeble or treacherous; and unless very valuable they 
had better be fed off, and replaced with good young 
ones, for the following reasons: First, an old and 
feeble sow will not raise any more nor any better pigs 
than a good young sow will, and if she is treacherous 
in any way, her progeny is liable to inherit it. Second, 
when her pigs are weaned, in a great many cases, she 
cannot be bred to have pigs again, at the proper time, 



42 SWINE BREEDING. 

much sooner than one of her daughters; and then the 
risk and expense of keeping her are so much greater. 

THE BOAR. 

As so much depends upon the male, at the head of 
a herd, great care should be taken in selecting a boar. 
As the labor of a lifetime, or the expense of a great 
deal of money and time in getting together a herd of 
good sows may be vitiated by a week's use of an in- 
ferior boar, it is important that he should not be se- 
lected at random. He should be purely bred of what- 
ever stock the party prefers, and not only a first-class 
individual himself, but have a pedigree showing un- 
mistakably that his parents, grand-parents, and great- 
grand-parents were of the same character. The pedi- 
gree is simply a certificate of character, and unless it 
shows good character it is of no practical value. It 
should back up the pig, but if the pig fails to back up 
the pedigree as well, there is probably something wrong 
in one or the other. " Hands off" would, in that case, 
be good advice. He should be a healthy, robust fellow, 
and of such form that, when fat, he would be about the 
model of such hogs as it is desired to raise. The gener- 
ally accepted idea among experienced breeders is, that 
the male should be somewhat more blocky and com- 
pact than the female, on the theory that the offsprings 
in outward form resemble the sire more than the dam. 
The boar should be medium in length, of great width 
and depth, back straight and strong, legs the same, 
but not too heavily boned, and should stand up well 
on his toes; neck and head short, dish-faced, ears, hair, 
and tail fine, features masculine, hams deep and well 
turned, ribs well sprung, being good in the shoulder 
and girth, as that denotes vigor and constitution (color 
is of the least importance). When wanted for service 
he should be at least from eight to ten months old. 
How long he should be kept for service, as in the sow, 



SWINE BREEDING. 43 

depends upon his value as a breeder. He would have 
to be at least two years old before anything could be 
determined. If then he begins to prove a valuable 
sire, he should be kept as long as possible, which, with 
good care, may be until he is five years old, or longer 
if he still retains his health and vigor. 

HOW THE ENGLISH JUDGE PIGS. 

The following dialogue, which occurred at a recent 
English exhibition of stock, will perhaps illustrate 
some of the points which should be looked for in a 
good pig for breeding purposes, and also show how 
differently an old hand and an amateur set to work. 
The first class is that for young boars, of which there 
were seven. After they were let out of the pen for 
inspection it was remarked by 

A. Some fine young boars here, especially that one 
with the beautifully turned-up short snout, wide shoul- 
ders, thin coat, and delicate skin. 

B. Do you think so? It is not quite my style of 
animal; I like one with a nose of fair length, the lower 
jaw sprung or bent (not straight), head wide between 
the ears, a small, keen eye, muscular neck, shoulders 
slightly upright, but not open or splayed on the top, 
ribs well sprung, deep in flanks for and aft, loin wide, 
hips well apart, hind-quarters long and deep, all 
covered with a fair quantity of not too fine hair and 
skin, and placed on legs well outside the body. You 
are then certain to get masculine character and good 
constitution, as well as the largest weights of meat 
where it is worth most per pound. 

A. Yes! 'but look at the beautiful head and quality 
of the further pig. 

B. I admit that your favorite does appear to have 
what sometimes goes by the name of quality, i. e., fine 
hair, thin skin, and delicacy of appearance generally; 
this is to me a proof of effeminacy in a male animal. 



44 SWINE BREEDING. 

The young boar you admire, as well as one or two 
others in the class, has no muscle or lean meat, and 
no middle; he is slack in the loin, and the fore-legs are 
either bent or both appear to come out of the same 
place; the tail is also set low on a light ham. 

A. I must frankly say that these boars are not so 
good behind and through the middle as they should 
be, but I am told the most difficult point to obtain in 
show pigs is a good head. 

B. But what earthly use is a head such as you re- 
quire when it is nearly always accompanied by a light 
neck and hind-quarters. The end of all breeding pigs 
and their produce is the slaughter-house, and, to judge 
a pig properly, you must first ask yourself or a bacon- 
curer which part of the pig's carcass is the most valu- 
able. My simple plan is to divide the carcass into 
three nearly equal portions. Take the head to the 
shoulder, the shoulder to the hip, and the hip to the 
tail, and the pig with the best middle and hind-quar- 
ters is far the most valuable. Thus, for argument, a 
dead pig is worth 56s. per cwt., or 6d. per lb. No. i 
part, or that with the head, will be worth to a bacon- 
curer 4d. per lb.; and the second part, the hind-quar- 
ter, at 8d. per lb.; and the middle, or third part, would 
be valued at 6d. per lb. These little facts I always keep 
in mind when acting as judge of pigs. Of course, I do 
not ignore the useful points which fanciers assert the 
various breeds should possess, but I try very hard to 
get the utility points as well, which include in a boar 
every appearance of being useful as a sire, and with 
sows that all of them above fifteen months old have 
not only bred pigs but reared them. This latter is 
especially necessary, as many of the sows whose lives 
are spent in the forcing and show-yard pens are use- 
less as brood 6ows. 



SWINE BREEDING. 45 

Rule: A male hog should be vigorous and com- 
pact, void of any extremely coarse or delicate points, 
sows more coarse and roomy, and both of a kind dis- 
position. This rule will hold good in any breed of 
hogs, and when breeding for any purpose, either 
breeders or feeders. To take this advice, and some 
more with it, I would still say, " never select, of either 
sex, the chubby pig of a small litter from a small sow 
reared in a small pen for a breeder. It is betting 
against success, and giving luck the biggest kind 
of odds. 

BREEDING TIME. 

The time to breed sows, so as to have them farrow 
at the most profitable time, is a question that has to 
be governed altogether by circumstances. The general 
rule is, that December is the best month to breed in, 
then the pigs will come in April, or about the time of 
new grass. This is considered the best time for the 
general crop of pigs to come, so that the sows after 
weaning their pigs, can have the summer and fall in 
which to regain their strength and vigor before bred 
for the next year, unless rebred soon again for a fall 
litter, which is not always considered best. 

There are exceptions, of course, to this rule. First: 
The location will have to be considered; in some 
localities pigs farrowed in February or March would 
do as well as if farrowed in May in other localities. 
It is thought best not to have them come so early, as 
they are liable to be lost or stunted by the cold before 
they have learned to eat well, or can have the benefit 
of new grass. Second: If pigs are designed especially 
for exhibition, the time for them to come should be 
governed by the date of the show, and the age required 
by the premium list. Third : In feeding for some par- 
ticular market, the time to reach it must be considered 



46 SWINE BREEDING. 

in connection with the facilities likely to be at hand 
for keeping and feeding for the purpose in view. 

IN THE HEAVY FEEDING DISTRICTS. 

In the heavy hog feeding districts many breeders 
of large experience, are satisfied to get one good litter 
a year from each sow, for, by this means, they can 
have them come in April or May, and by good care, 
turn them off in December, weighing two hundred and 
fifty pounds or more. This they consider the most 
profitable way of feeding, as hogs, up to that age and 
weight, take on pounds much faster than they do after 
that time, and then the risks are so much less. In 
feeding off these young hogs, very often their dams 
are fed off with them, especially the old or inferior' 
breeders, and some choice young sows are retained in 
their place, which is a good plan to adopt at all times, 
as it saves carrying over any unprofitable sows; but 
the plan of selecting all young sows for breeders every 
year, as adopted by some, I do not approve of, as it 
degenerates the stock. 

ONE LITTER A YEAR BETTER THAN TWO. 

Many breeders of large experience in raising pigs 
are satisfied to get one good litter a year from each 
sow. A first-rate litter, strong and thrifty, is consid- 
ered more profitable than two of second-rate quality. 
This is assuming that by the two-litter plan the pigs 
are necessarily inferior, and there is good reason for 
supposing this to be the fact. 

If a sow produces two litters each year it follows 
that during two-thirds of the time the energies of her 
system are directed to the growth of these litters be- 
fore farrowing. This leaves only four months of the 
year in which to suckle the two litters; or only the 
length of time usually allowed for one. It sometimes 
happens that sows are bred soon after they have far- 



SWINE BREEDING. 47 

rowed and are thus required to carry one litter while 
suckling another, but this always results in the di- 
minished thrift and value of one litter or the other, and 
often in the injury of both, as well as of the sow herself. 

If two litters are to be had within the year, the 
spring litter will come so early that the little pigs are 
liable to be lost or stunted by the cold before they have 
learned to feed well, or can have the benefit of new 
grass. The fall litter, necessarily coming late, will also 
suffer from the cold of early winter after they are 
weaned. Even with the best care the growth of fall 
pigs is retarded by the cold weather and their being 
compelled to rely on dry feed at an age when the ad- 
dition of grass and clover to their diet is so much 
needed for their best development. 

Good shelter and regular attendance, with generous 
feeding, will go far toward keeping them in a thrifty 
condition; but this adds to the cost of rearing, and is 
made to count against fall litters, except under special 
circumstances or conditions which may at times make 
it profitable to rear fall or winter pigs. 

By the two-litter plan the sow does not have the 
needed time in which to recover fully from that wear 
and tear on her system which is inseparable from the 
proper rearing by her of a litter of healthy, fast-grow- 
ing pigs. 

There are cases in which it is advisable or unavoid- 
able that sows farrow at some other season than from 
about the first of March to the middle of April, or 
about the time of new grass; but as a rule the general 
crop of young pigs should come at this time, so that 
the sows, after weaning their pigs, can have the sum- 
mer and fall in which to regain their strength and 
vigor before being bred for the next year. 



48 SWINE BREEDING. 

EXCEPTIONS TO THE GENERAL RULE. 

If pigs are designed specially for exhibition, the 
time for them to come should be governed by the date 
of the show and the age required by the premium list. 

Whether to be fed for sale to the local butcher or 
for shipment to the great pork-packing centers, the 
particular market to be reached must be considered in 
connection with the facilities likely to be at hand for 
keeping and feeding for the purpose had in view. 

If it is intended to rear sow pigs to be retained or 
sold for breeding purposes, there can be no better time 
to have them come than in the spring, as recom- 
mended for the general crop. This gives them the 
whole summer on grass, and if with this they are 
allowed a little mill feed daily, made into swill, and 
after harvest turned on the w r heat stubble, or fed on 
oats and rye, they will make the best possible growth, 
and be ready to receive the boar in January or Febru- 
ary. They will then throw their first litters early in 
May or June following, or when they are a little over 
one year old. As it is not generally deemed advisable 
to save as breeders pigs from the first litter of a young 
sow, the fact that these May or June pigs the next 
year would be too young to be bred for spring pigs the 
next year would not be considered any disadvantage. 
And yet, if particularly well bred and valuable as 
breeding stock, they may be retained and served in 
time to drop their first litters in June or August, or 
-when twelve to fourteen months old. 

In the rearing of young boars for breeding pur- 
poses, it sometimes happens that there is a demand in 
the fall for boars that are nearly a year old. When 
such demand is likely to occur, it is well to provide 
for it by having a few litters of fall pigs. The extra 
expense of keeping them through the winter may be 
more than realized by the good prices they will com- 



SWINE BREEDING. 49 

mand the following season. The chief demand, how- 
ever, for young boars, is for those of very early spring 
litters. Here again some additional risk and care are 
required, but with well-bred stock which can be relied 
on to prove its good breeding the prices to be had for 
such young boars will justify the extra care given them. 

A sow that is cross or bad to handle at farrowing time 
should be bred so as to have pigs in mild weather. 
When near her time she can be turned into a woods or 
other pasture and permitted to take care of herself. 
After her pigs are a few days old she will not be so 
cross, and if then approached with a little corn or other 
feed a few times she will soon become manageable, and 
can then be taken to the barn-yard, or where the other 
sows and their pigs are kept. We would not like to 
have many of the savage kind of sows to deal with, but 
it sometimes pays well to humor a sow, valuable for 
the stock that is in her, by keeping away from her at 
farrowing time. Having her pigs to come in mild 
weather is the surest way of having her save them, but 
even then it is generally a " hit and miss " case. 

It is sometimes claimed that sows, in order to become 
good milkers, should be bred when quite young — say 
at six or eight months old — so that they may have 
their first litters at ten or twelve months of age. But 
oft-repeated trial does not support the claim. Improve- 
ment in this direction is best secured by the careful 
selection of breeding stock, and by feeding when young 
and growing, with a view to the development of milk- 
ing qualities in the young sows. — Phil. Thrifton. 

FALL PIGS AND HOW TO AVINTER THEM. 

" There are so many failures made in the wintering 
of small pigs that many farmers claim it does not pay 
to raise them. Now, if one of this large class would 
say ' It does not pay me to raise fall pigs,' I would not 
call his statement in question. The fault is in the man 



50 SWINE BREEDING. 

and not in the pigs. The writer finds it profitable to 
raise enough fall pigs to have a car load of extra good 
hogs by the time they are twelve or fourteen months 
old. Simply because fall litters are not as easily kept, 
and are more liable to disease, as usually kept, than 
spring litters, does not settle the question of profits. 

If the corn crop of the farm is sufficient to make one 
hundred good porkers, the risk of the business will be 
lessened by having about one-third of them come in 
the early fall and two-thirds in early spring. Every 
one knows that liability to disease increases as the num- 
bers increase. Then, too, there are not needed on the 
farm so many pens and feeding floors. The risk of 
swine-raising has become so great within a few years, 
that we do well to use every precaution to prevent out- 
breaks of disease, as it is more easily prevented than 
controlled. We can keep the quarters clean and com- 
fortable for forty, and have the grazing lots kept fresh 
and free from mud and bare places, where if, we had 
twice or three times that number, we would surely fail 
if caught in a wet, disagreeable spell of weather. 

MAKE THEM COMFORTABLE. 

Unless the farmer plans to make the fall litters com- 
fortable from November to May, when they should be 
ready to turn to clover, he will not likely make it pay 
to handle fall litters. Comfortable quarters and suita- 
ble food they must have. 

The fall pigs which are to live on dry corn and ice- 
water from December to May will invite disease ; and 
I would be disappointed if by such keep a large per 
cent, did not die, and the survivors have coughs and a 
staring coat. If that is the keep the fall pigs must 
have, then I will agree that I want no fall pigs. But 
the day has come when we can not afford to raise any 
kind of hogs on dry corn and cold water. The men 
who limit their hogs and pigs to the corn and water 



SWINE BREEDING. 51 

diet are the ones who experience heavy losses in the busi- 
ness. If we have learned anything about the manage- 
ment of swine, it is that the health of the heard must 
be the first consideration, and that can not be secured 
without due regard to sanitary law. 

BEST FOR CLOVER. 

The pigs which come in .spring have not sufficiently 
strong digestion by the middle of May to go into the 
clover field and make profitable growth on clover alone, 
as have the pigs farrowed the September or October 
previous. The spring pigs, to be ready for market by 
the December or January following, must have grain 
every day, with the clover or grass to bring them to the 
butcher before the year closes. The fall pigs, if turned 
on clover in May, in good order, will make rapid growth 
until the clover becomes woody, in July or August. 
By this time or the first of September, the roasting ears 
are formed, and we begin to cut up the corn and feed 
stalk and all on the clover fields. The corn is green 
and is all eaten, if fed in moderation, until the stalks 
harden. The change from clover to grain is thus most 
gradual, and we find the pigs often ready for market 
by November, and to weigh over three hundred pounds 
at ten or twelve months, four months of which time 
they have had no grain. This period of clover feeding 
has greatly reduced the average monthly expense of 
keep, and has enabled us to convert clover into pork to 
an extent which would be impossible with that number 
of spring pigs. 

OLD VIEW NOT CORRECT. 

" But fall pigs don't do any good," I have often heard 
farmers say, and once thought an old farmer's opinion 
on that point was so valuable that it was hardly worth 
while to test its correctness by experiment. Having, 
however, tested the matter, I conclude that, with the 
dry corn and ice-water diet, and muddy feed lots, and 



52 SWINE BREEDING. 

dirty, damp, cold beds, "fall pigs don't do any good." 
If, however, September pigs are provided with good 
sleeping quarters, with clean bedding, good ventilation, 
without the wind whistling through, they can sleep 
comfortably and find escape in the daytime from storm 
and chilling winds. Then, if instead of rooting and 
wading in the mud, belly deep, for their feed, they have 
a board or stone floor to eat on, they can eat with com- 
fort. And if, in connection with this house and feed- 
ing floor, they can have the range of a grass lot they 
will spend hours here every day, unless it is very 
stormy, grazing. 

NOT CORN ALONE. 

Now, their feed must not be corn alone. With it 
and the grass lot they will do well if the winter is open, 
so they can every day get grass and plenty of exercise; 
but if the winter is a hard one, and they are shut from 
the grazing by snow or intense cold, they will soon 
show constipation and a feverish condition, and by 
March the chances are they will look rough and come 
out in the morning coughing; and it is a cough that 
none of the so-called remedies will cure so long as the 
corn and ice-water diet continues. 

To avoid any check in growth by such deranged 
condition we had better meet the demands of nature. 
If instead of the rich carbonaceous diet we modify it 
by reducing the amount of corn and substituting bran 
and oil-cake meal we have a ration which will not pro- 
voke constipation and feverishness while the pigs are 
deprived of grass and exercise. But these are not 
enough. We want a less concentrated food. We get 
this cheaply by mixing corn meal, bran and oil-cake 
meal with clover hay run through the cutting-box. If 
the meal and mill feed be mixed with the chaffed 
clover and moistened and fed in a trough there will be 
no waste, and better pay for the feed consumed than in 



SWINE BREEDING. 53 

any other way the writer has ever tried. It will in- 
sure more growth and better health than corn, or corn 
and bran, or mill feed, without the clover. 

PLENTY OF DRINK AND GOOD. 

But pigs will not do their best for us without plenty 
of drink. How to secure that long bothered me; for 
young pigs will not drink as much ice-cold slop or 
water as they need to keep them in good condition. A 
trough full of ice does not make any fat or bone. 

KEEPING SLOP WARM. 

A cheap device for keeping slop warm is : Take a 
coal-oil barrel, put it inside of a box and pack with cut 
straw or saw-dust. Have a lid to close down tight. 
An old coffee-sack or piece of blanket or carpet laid 
over the barrel before putting on the lid of the barrel 
and closing down the lid of the box, will keep in the 
heat. 

A CASE OF COOKING THAT PAYS. 

We make the barrel full of cooked feed. If kept 
covered it will keep warm until fed out. It is made 
as thick as mush or cream, and one bucket of the feed 
mixed with a bucket of water from the well makes a 
tepid mess which pigs enjoy, and will eat up clean, 
and go off happy to bed or to rambling about the 
grass lot. Here is a case where it pays well to cook 
feed for stock, and it is the only use of cooked feed the 
writer has ever found profitable. 

With this jacket around the slop barrel the hot 
dish-water, and all waste hot water of the kitchen or 
laundry, can be utilized to the comfort and health of 
the pigs. The chill ought to be taken off of any drink 
given to the pigs in freezing weather if we would get 
best results for care and feed. 

This device may seem small to the farmer who 
handles pigs and swine by the hundred, but as the 



54 SWINE BREEDING. 

bulk of the pork of the country is made by the farmers 
who handle a few hogs, the hints here given will meet 
their case. 

MIXED HUSBANDRY. 

Now, here we have the experience of two prominent 
writers and breeders, one favoring one litter a year, 
coming in the spring, and the other favoring two litters 
a year. My experience and observations have been, 
that mixed husbandry in swine breeding, as well as 
mixed husbandry in farming, is the true method for 
the general farmer; therefore, I would be in favor of 
Mr. Bohman's system of breeding, and raise some pigs 
each fall instead of having them come in the spring. 
Of course they will need some attention, but there are 
few but what can give them all the attention they need, 
if they will. 

The device, to keep swill warm, as given by Mr. 
Bohman, is good, and where you have but a few pigs 
and do not want to use that, I have found it very con- 
venient, at times, to fill a large iron pot with milk or 
good slops, evening and morning, and heat it on the 
cook-stove to boiling heat, in this stir bran or ground 
grain of any kind to give it a body, then cool it to 
blood heat. This will make feed enough for twenty or 
more pigs, and for which they will be Yery thankful, 
and prove it by their fine appearance. Those who 
have never tried this should try it once, and see how 
much better their pigs will do than if confined to dry 
corn and cold water. Give a sow and pigs, or a dozen 
pigs, a good, warm bucket of slop twice a day, and see 
how much faster they will gain than if compelled to 
drink ice-water, and eat dry, and probably frozen corn. 



CHAPTER IV. 



THE BOAR, BROOD SOWS, PIGS, AND HOW TO 
CARE FOR THEM. 




The Boar and His Care — The Brood Sows — When to Put Them 
Up — Where to Put Them— When to Feed Them — How They 
Should be Fed — Notes Worth Mentioning — Teach Young Pigs 
to Eat— Keep Them from Robbing Each Other— Treatment of 
Suckling Pigs — Weaning Time— Time to Castrate Pigs — Save 
the Sows — Their Care after Being Weaned — Good Things 
Repeated. 

THE BOAR HIS CARE. 

S the boar is one-half the herd and he is expected 
to impress his qualities with surety on his pro- 
gency, he should be kept quiet, and in a strong 
and healthy condition all the time. Knowing this, 
there is no place better to keep him than a good grass 
lot, well fenced, with shade and shelter, and away from 
other hogs. Here he will have a chance for exercising 
and grazing, and is not so liable to become restless and 
breachy. His food should be a mixture of mill feed 
and corn, or oats and corn, and in such quantity as 
will keep him in a nice thrifty condition, but not too 
fat, when wanted for service. He should be well sup- 
plied at all times with fresh water, and frequently with 
a mess of good slops, etc. When wanted for service, 
it is always best to turn the sows in the lot to him, as 
by this means he can be kept more quiet. Never turn 
but one in at a time, and only allow one service; this 
is considered as good as two or more, and the addi- 
tional service only exhaust the hog. Then turn the 



56 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

sow out and put her away where he cannot see her; by 
this means you will always have a good and quiet hog. 
There are two old customs that are practiced all over 
the country, that the owner of a good hog will find it 
to his advantage to abolish. First: Turning the boar 
out with a lot of brimming sows and letting him go. 
Second: Loaning him to everybody else for the same 
purpose. 

brood sows. 

A great many breeders of swine seem to think 
brood sows require but little attention when not suck- 
ling pigs. This is a mistake, for the health and thrift 
of the pigs depend entirely upon the health and thrift 
of the sows while caring for and suckling them; there- 
fore, too much attention can not be given them. They 
should be in a healthy, thrifty condition when bred, 
and receive such attention after that as to keep them 
in a thriving condition. Their feed should be a mix- 
ture of corn, mill feed, oats, roots, etc., with plenty of 
exercise in a grass or wood lot. They should be kept 
separate from other stock, especially some six weeks 
before farrowing time, and provided with a clean, dry, 
warm place to sleep, so that they will not pile up and 
injure one another, for this is the cause of a great 
many pigs being lost at or before farrowing time, and 
can nearly always be avoided with a little care and 
attention. 

WHEN TO PUT THEM UP. 

Some two weeks before farrowing time, each sow 
should be put into suitable quarters (the season of the 
year being taken into consideration), so that she may 
become acquainted with the place before farrowing; if 
not, they are liable to become very restless. They 
should uot have two much material furnished them, 
out of which to construct a nest, especially if in close 
quarters; but should be allowed to make their own 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 57 

nest, as they can make it better than we can. Let 
them do as they please; worrying them makes them 
feverish and nervous. When I say too much bedding 
should not be furnished them, I do not mean an armful 
of straw is enough for a large sow to make a bed, espec- 
ially in cold weather, but there is no need of her hav- 
ing an excessive amount of loose material when con- 
fined in small quarters. Their bed should be prepared 
in a place where it and its surrounding can be kept 
clean and dry. It should never be allowed to become 
wet, musty, or foul, and no dust should be allowed to 
accumulate, as dust on young pigs is very injurious to 
them, and a very small injury to young pigs may pre- 
vent a week's growth, as well as to insure disease. At 
all seasons they should have a shelter above them. If 
the weather is warm this is about all that is necessary, 
If in the winter or early spring, they should be shelt- 
ered from the wind and storms. There is not much 
danger of getting their quarters too warm. After giv- 
ing birth the sow will be weak, circulation and all the 
vital functions reduced, and the bodily heat will be 
lowered in proportion. Nor will it be too warm for the 
pigs. Their mothers' body has been a warm home, 
and they fully realize that this is a cold and heartless 
world when first they make its acquaintance. At the 
critical hour leave the sow completely alone, and dis- 
turb her just as little as possible for a day or more. 

WHEN TO FEED THEM. 

Do not feed or slop her until she gets up and hunts 
for food or drink. She is weak and nervous, and very 
much afraid some one will hurt her babies. If one 
goes "poking their nose" around they will get her ex- 
cited, and she will probably step or lay on some of her 
pigs. The best treatment that can be given her at this 
time is to leave her alone. One of the greatest troubles 
in raising pigs is, to prevent the sows from laying on 



58 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

them and killing them. This is the reason why they 
should not be fed or disturbed until they get up in 
search of food. As long as they remain quiet and do 
not stir around, the pigs are safe, unless there is too 
much bedding, when a pig may get outside of the nest, 
and not being able or wise enough to get back again, 
it may perish from cold or hunger. But if disturbed 
or given food, the sow will certainly get up to eat it, or 
get excited, and then she will lie down again, and very 
likely on a pig or two. Whereas, this advice may not 
suit those who are engaged in the breeding of fine hogs, 
who may want to be present upon all occasions at the 
critical hour, to give the sow and pigs such assistance 
as they may need, and who, most always, have their 
sows so tame or kind that they will permit such atten- 
tion, but most farmers will find that it will win " nine 
times out of ten." All a sow wants is a suitable place 
to farrow, and be let alone. 

HOW THEY SHOULD BE FED. 

From the time the sows are put up, their feed 
should be increased gradually, until up to a full feed ? 
but should be of a loose and laxative kind. Milk, house- 
slops, bran, oil-meal, ground barley, rye or oats, and but 
little corn in any way, until the pigs are a week old. 
Corn is too heating, and is liable to cause fever and 
constipation, and is not as good to produce milk as 
other food. An abundance of milk for the first eight 
or ten weeks of the young pigs' existence is the best 
preparation they can have to fit them for profitable 
growth in after life. Therefore the sows should be 
supplied with a milk-producing food, regularly three 
times a day, all they will eat. How ever well she may 
be fed, if the pigs thrive ; i they should, their capacity 
for taking all the milk will always excede the ability 
of the sow to furnish it, even when she is placed under 
the most favorable circumstances. 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS 59 

NOTES WORTH MENTIONING. 

First* Great care should be taken in using slops 
from the house, not allowing vinegar, salty brine, or 
much sour buttermilk to be poured into the swill, as a 
pig is a delicate, tender animal when young, and great 
care should be taken that the food of the sow be sweet 
and sound. Any violent change of food given the sow, 
or her drinking sour or salty swills, will effect the pigs 
much more than the sow. 

Second: Sometimes a sow refuses to own her pigs 
or let them suck, and if some means are not used to 
bring her to terms, the pigs will die for want of nour- 
ishment. The American stock book says: " The sow 
can be brought to terms by pouring a mixture of ten 
to twenty grains of spirits of camphor with one to three 
of tincture of opium into the ear. The sow will im- 
mediately lie down on the side of the ear to which the 
application was made, and remain quiet for several 
hours in this position without interfering with the 
pigs, and on recovery from the stupor will have lost her 
irritability in regard to them. The experiment has 
been tried in Germany hundreds of times, according to 
one of the agricultural journals, without any injurious 
effects." This may be worth trying, in order to save a 
good litter of pigs, but if she needed doctoring more 
than once for this reason, I would send her to the fat- 
tening pen as soon as possible. Some sows are " nat- 
ural born fools," and the sooner they are gotten rid of 
the better. 

Third: Occasionally sows loose part of their pigs 
from cold weather or some other cause, and it is nec- 
essary to put two litters together, in order to breed one 
of the sows again. This can be done very easily, when 
there is only two or three days' difference in their ages, 
and can often be done when there is a week's differ- 
ence. Put the pigs in the nest with the sow, then 



60 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

sprinkle her with warm water, with a small amount of 
whisky or coal-oil in it; let it run down off of her on 
the pigs, and she can not tell them apart. Their in- 
stinct for knowing their young is principally by the 
scent. Very often a sow can be made to own her own 
pigs in the same way. 

TEACH THE YOUNG PIGS TO EAT. 

It is always best to teach the young pigs to eat by 
themselves as soon as possible. This is all the more 
important if the sow happens to be bred again soon 
after farrowing. If then, they have been taught to de- 
pend largely on feed given them, instead of on the 
milk of the sow alone, they may safely be taken from 
the sow when they are eight weeks old. But if the 
sow has not been bred it will be much better to leave 
them suck until twelve or fourteen weeks old; or, in 
other words, until the sow weans them herself. When 
the pigs are about three or four weeks old, a small 
trough should be placed in some convenient place near 
the bed, where only the pigs can get at it, and it should 
be supplied regularly three times a day with some 
good, sweet feed. Sweet milk, good house-slop, mid- 
lings, oil-meal and boiled mashed potatoes make the 
best feed until they get older, when oats,, rye, barley 
and corn can be added, which should be either ground 
or soaked, as it is easier digested. It is best not to feed 
too much at a time, but to feed often and regularly. 
Do not neglect the sows, but feed them regularly, and 
all they will eat until the pigs are weaned. 

KEEP THE PIGS FROM ROBBING EACH OTHER. 

One of the most important points in the manage- 
ment of sucking pigs is to prevent the robbing of 
young litters by those that are older. Unless timely 
and proper measures are taken, this is almost as certain 
to occur as that the appetites of young pigs will grow 
with the growth of the pigs themselves. As an easy 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 63 

way of satisfying this increasing appetite the older 
litters soon acquire the habit, if opportunity offers, of 
driving the younger from their dams and taking their 
milk themselves. Plundering and foraging are the 
first traits of lively character shown by young pigs. 
The present good is all they care for; and when litters 
of different ages are allowed to run together, no amount 
of extra feeding will prevent the older and stronger 
from taking the milk intended for the younger. The 
only way, therefore, to have all do well is to keep the 
litters apart while young. After they are five or six 
weeks old, if thriving well and following their dam 
with that earnest well-to-do and saucy air usual with 
hearty, good-feeding pigs, there is less danger of their 
being imposed upon by older ones. A litter of vigor- 
ous, high-feeling pigs will whip out in a moment any 
that would dare to intrude upon their rights as suck- 
lers. The habit of robbing comes out by degrees, and, 
as a rule, it is only the younger litters, which have not 
yet begun to enjoy fully their happy lot in life, or such 
as have never been of strong and hearty growth, that 
are liable to suffer from the impositions of older com- 
rades. The young and weak can not be expected to 
grow and do well unless protected in a way that will 
insure to them the milk of their dams. The separa- 
tion of the litters will not only accomplish this, but 
will make it possible to keep the larger pigs from get- 
ing an undue share of any choice feed that may at 
times be had for distribution. 

The keeping of the litters apart is some trouble, to 
be sure, but let any one try the experiment for a few 
weeks and he will find it time and care well invested. 
If, as they grow older and learn to eat by themselves, 
they are well and regularly fed, the owner will feel well 
repaid for the extra attention given by the increased 
growth and thrift of the little pigs. To the farmer's 



64 CAKE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

boy, who likes fun, there is pay of another kind, viz., 
in the entertainment to be had from an occasional in- 
nocent and gallant little pig-fight. When two litters, 
after being kept in this way for a time, as strangers to 
each other, are brought together, by letting the older 
into the premises occupied by the younger, it will 
amuse almost any one to see the dust fly in the regu- 
lar pitched battle which is sure to take place. One 
not used to seeing these encounters will be surprised 
also to find the smaller pigs the victors, unless the 
difference in weight is nearly as two to one against 
them, and then, when the fight is over, how proudly 
the little fellows stand on their ground while the big 
strangers scamper away. These little battles are not, 
of course, suggested as a necessary part of the rearing 
or training of the pigs, nor are they mentioned here to 
encourage the boys in this kind of sport. But, how- 
ever they may occur, whether from accident or design, 
they show that young pigs, which have been well kept, 
are generally able to defend themselves. 

TREATMENT OF SUCKING PIGS. 

Sows with large litters begin to feel the tax made 
on them to furnish milk so frequently and abundantly 
as a healthy litter will demand at three to four weeks. 
By this time if she does not furnish them nourish- 
ment enough, the little fellows try to eat what they 
see the dam eat. Her food is not always of the kind 
best suited to their stomachs. 

It may here be said that in all our management of 
the pig, our first aim should be not to injure the stom- 
ach or digestive powers. His value as a pork-producer 
depends solely on his power to assimilate food. He is 
the machine by which we wish to convert grass and 
grain into pork, and the value of the machine depends 
wholly on the amount of feed it can assimilate, or the 
amount of feed it can regularly digest each day. We 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 65 

want to keep that stomach in condition to work every 
day, loose no time, and increase its daily capacity for 
work. We wish to treat the digestive apparatus of the 
pig rationally as we do our trotting colts. We begin 
to train them by degrees; give them light work, and 
be careful that their bone, tendon, or strengt his never 
overtaxed, yet all regularly exercised and strengthened. 
The law of physiology is, use strengthens, but disease 
weakens any of the animal functions. But like all 
nature's laws it is limited. When we overtax any 
member, weariness notifies us that we are near the 
limit of endurance. The young can not endure the 
long-continued effort of the more mature. 

This power to digest is as important to develop in 
the pig as the power to trot in the colt. As the trot- 
ting quality can be bred into and developed in the 
colt so the power to digest and assimilate a large 
quantity of food has been bred into and can be devel- 
oped in the pig. We can ruin the chances of the best 
bred and most promising colt by one month's or one 
week's over-training. So one week's over-feeding our 
young pig may ruin his chances of making as profit- 
able a porker as he was capable of making with wise 
and judicious feeding. 

The day has passed when farmers can afford to let 
the sow and pig shift for themselves. They have 
not the great forests and wood pastures, with abund- 
ance of mast, and tender juicy roots, and grubs, and 
tid-bits among the leaves to satisfy their hunger with; 
nor the cool shade, pure water from the spring and 
brook for drinking and bathing, and the abundant 
leaves for clean beds. Man has destroyed all these, 
and we must now anticipate the wants of the pig, 
which were, under the old regime, met in the woods. 
Then the sow and pigs could roam till the master 
wanted them for bacon, and if they grew slowly, they 



66 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

were costing nothing for feed and care and he could 
afford to let them live until they were two or three 
years old. But now all this is changed. The hog 
must adapt himself to the civilized conditions, and 
the owner must provide everything for him, that they 
may live and help one another. 

The owner who makes pork-raising profitable must 
meet the wants of that machine. As soon as the sow 
fails to furnish enough milk she must be fed to keep 
up the flow to her fullest capacity, and then this must 
be supplemented with something as near like it in 
digestibility and ability to form bone, fibre, force, and 
fat in a harmonious way. We must not feed that pig 
merely to make him fat. If we do we shall do it at 
the expense of bone and force, and we shall too late 
learn that our pigs fatten, but do not grow to meet our 
expectations. While the ability of a pig or steer to 
lay on fat is desirable and a thing to strive for, we 
must not have it in excess, or we soon reduce the size 
of our pigs to that of the Chinese. 

Nor must we take the other extreme and compel 
the sow or pigs to root or die and compel them to 
pick u r jj a living by constant labor and hunting. If 
we do we shall have a lean, long-legged, long-nosed, 
restless set of brutes that will never be still long 
enough to lay on flesh, but will spend all the feed con- 
sumed in furnishing force and not flesh We have a 
laboring animal and not a flesh producer The feed 
has been wasted. It must be evident that the matter 
of feeding and caring for the sow and pigs during the 
time of suckling will give character to the litter and 
decide largely what kind of hogs they are to make. 
The writer assumes that our greatest profit in produc- 
ing pork and beef comes from early maturity, and he 
also believes that the greatest profit in pork produc- 
tion can not be reached without a generous and 



CAKE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 67 

watchful care of the sow and pigs before weaning. 

As soon as the pigs begin to tax the sow they 
should have provided a side-table, where they can slip 
in and lunch often. At first it should consist of sweet 
milk, if this can be had, for it is the safest feed for 
pigs and calves. But where it can not be had we 
must approximate to it as closely as possible. The 
grain of wheat supplies the elements of growth of 
fibre, fat and bone, and we can furnish a slop 
made of middlings and oil-cake meal which is most 
easily digested, and which distends and strengthens 
the stomach. It is better than dry corn or corn-meal 
for sucking pigs. My own experience is that corn- 
meal alone is neither the most economical nor best 
suited for development of the pig. If it must be fed 
to young pigs, better results come by mixing it with 
cut clover, grass, bran, or oats. 

The side-table for the pigs will need to be replen- 
ished often. If one is trying to make the most of 
his litter of pigs and keep them in good form, and 
hair and skin glowing with health, he will do well to 
feed five times a day, rather than two or three, though 
he gives no more feed in the five times than in the 
two or three. A small quantity of shelled corn soaked 
in pure water twelve to twenty-four hours, when pigs 
demand more than the sow can furnish, is a handy 
and useful ration. Corn and oats, half and half, 
ground fine, is an excellent food. But when we are 
feeding grain to pigs at three months old or under, 
we must take great care that they have a run to grass 
and that the grain rations are not so heavy as to make 
the pig too fat. He can most profitably be kept 
plump and thrifty, but not fat and lazy. Health is 
of first importance now. 



68 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

WEANING TIME. 

In order to wean the pigs some discretion and care 
should be used, as too sudden a change is not always 
good for either sows or pigs, especially if weaned at an 
early age. If the sows have been bred while suckling, 
which can be done the fifth day after farrowing, if so 
desired, or where they are expected to be bred soon 
again, the pigs can be weaned at six or eight weeks of 
age. Where this is expected, it is all the more neces- 
sary to teach the pigs to eat as soon as possible by 
giving them some milk and other feed in a trough by 
themselves, so that in weaning them the change is not 
so sudden. Put them in a pen, or what is better, a 
grass lot, and if where they can not see the sow, so 
much the better; then feed three times a day with 
every kind of sweet food; good mill feed, ground oats 
or barley, milk, etc., is what they want, and if the 
weather is cold do not forget to warm their feed. If 
necessary, turn the sow into them once a day for a 
few days, until her flow of milk is decreased. Con- 
tinue to feed the pigs well, increasing their food as 
their ability increases to consume it. And as to age, 
there is no material difference between "pighood and 
hoghood," except to increase the amount and strength 
of the feed. 

The mistake is often made of feeding young pigs on 
food that is purely fattening, which gives pigs a short 
dumpy form which can not be made to stretch out 
and grow into large thrifty hogs afterwards. If the 
little pigs are thus fed and crowded with fattening 
food in their early life they will grow into little round 
dumps of fat, with no substantial frame or foundation 
to back it. They will be stunted and show the effects 
of this kind of food ever afterward. This effect can 
be produced by confining pigs too closely and feeding 
corn in any form very heavily, or by the combinations 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 69 

of fat-producing food, such as corn, oil-cake, sugar 
beets, etc. But where they are allowed plenty of 
range and a variety of food this effect is seldom pro- 
duced. 

If they are not intended to be fed right along, their 
feed, at any time or age, should not be checked or 
changed too suddenly, but fed once a day, and the 
amount gradually decreased until the change is made. 

THE TIME TO CASTRATE PIGS. 

All the pigs that are intended for feeders should be 
handled just before being weaned, as they do much 
better while young and following the sow than they do 
after they get older, and in case of death, caused by 
the operation, the loss is less. At six or eight weeks 
of age is considered the best time to handle them, and 
as to "signs," the weather should be clear and warm. 
If any of them are showing sickness, or the swine 
plague is raging in the neighborhood, I would say wait 
until they are well or the plague has abated, as inves- 
tigation has shown that a hog with a wound or open 
sore will contract the disease quicker than one with- 
out. 

SAVE THE SOWS. 

I have made it a practice for several years, and 
observed others do the same, not to handle the female 
pigs for the following reasons: First — If they are to 
be fed off at a young age they will do fully as well 
open as if spayed, for they are not liable to brim very 
often, and if necessary, they can be bred four or six 
weeks before turning them off, and they will then gain 
in weight very fast. Second — When they are to be 
kept until a year or more old before being fattened 
they can just as well raise a litter of pigs as to run 
idle, and while they may not make quite as good 
growth in doing so, the pigs would more than offset 
the loss. Third — There, is with most breeders, an 



70 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

unnecessary expense attached to the spaying of 
sows in procuring some competent person to do 
the work; and then the loss is always greater 
by death with sows than with male pigs. Further- 
more, by leaving them go some very fine brood 
sows are obtained that would otherwise be lost. 
Here is a method to avoid spaying sows that is 
often practiced with good results: The first time a 
young sow brims take a smooth tin or glass tube some 
fourteen inches long, insert it, and run through it into 
the womb twenty No. 6 shot, which will prevent the 
brimming again. This is said to be just as good and 
far less dangerous than spaying, and can be done by 
any careful person. 

THEIR CARE AFTER BEING WEANED. 

As to the care of the pigs after being weaned, that 
will depend entirely on what is expected of them. If 
they are expected to be fed off at nine or ten months 
of age, and weigh two hundred and fifty or three hun- 
dred pounds, they will have to be fed some grain and 
swill, and kept all summer on grass. But as every 
farmer can not do this, it is very important that they 
should not be taken off of feed too sudden, and made 
to depend upon grass alone, especially where the grass 
is so poor that they can hardly find a living. Their 
feed should be gradually reduced, and continued for a 
few days after they are turned out, and then if they 
are not expected to be fed any more during the sum- 
mer, they should have plenty of good grass. A mix- 
ture of grasses is better than clover. In July, before 
new corn is fit to cut up and feed, if the pasture fails 
and a better one is not to be obtained, it is best to mow 
some good, tender grass every day, and feed it to them. 
They will eat this greedily, and do as well on it as 
running on pasture. As soon as new corn is fit to cut 
up and feed stalk and ear, on grass, it should be done, 



CARE OF BOAR BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 71 

giving but a small amount at first, and gradually in- 
creasing up to full feed. 

GOOD THINGS REPEATED. 

A brood sow should be a good milker. However 
good in other respects, if deficient in this, she should 
hardly be retained as a breeder. An abundance of 
milk for the first eight or ten weeks of their existence 
is the best preparation young pigs can have to fit them 
for profitable growth in after life. It is not always 
possible to decide with certainty whether or not a 
young sow will prove to be a good milker; but as with 
cows, so with pigs, we may learn from observation and 
trial to know in some degree, judging from their gen- 
eral appearance, what to expect. Much will depend 
upon the dam and grandam in this regard. Milking 
qualities in swine are as surely transmittable to pro- 
geny as in cattle. Thus it is true of swine as of cat- 
tle, that this trait may be greatly improved by retain- 
ing only good milkers for breeders, as well as by feed- 
ing them when young, with a view to their develop- 
ment as milk-producers, rather than as fat-producers. 
For this reason spring and early summer litters are 
usually the best from which to select young brood sows. 
They can be kept through the summer almost entirely 
on grass, which, if abundant and in variety, will make 
them grow nicely, and, at the same time, the exercise 
required in grazing will keep them in good health and 
thrift. By the time the cold weather comes on, and 
corn is to be fed, they will have become nearly old and 
large enough for service. But even after this, con- 
tinued care should be taken that too much corn, or 
other fat producing food, should not be given them. 
We must, however, bear in mind that at this period all 
animals naturally lay up fat, which afterwards goes to 
enrich the milk. Hence, while they should not be 
allowed to become over-fat they should yet be so fed as 



72 CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 

to supply this demand of nature, and to retain the gen- 
eral health and vigor of the system. In the winter 
time there is not much danger of getting them too fat, 
and they should be fed very liberal. 

FARROWING TIME. 

When they have dropped their first litter, the most 
they will need for the first five or eight days will be 
cooling drinks, and very little rich food, scalded and 
then thinned. Milk feed, with cold water, is the best 
feed for ten days or two weeks. The richness of the 
food may be gradually increased, great care being taken 
not to feed too much at the start, but gradually in- 
creasing the amount until they have been brought up 
to full feed, which should be given regularly, at least 
three times a day, until the pigs have reached that age, 
and learned to eat and depend more upon their feed 
than the milk of the dam. 

WEANING TIME. 

The weaning of young pigs at any age should be 
done gradually and with care. If, for a while, they are 
kept from the sow a part of each day, they will the 
more quickly take to feeding on their own account. 
By thus preventing them from sucking the sow regu- 
larly, and at the same time lessening her supplies of 
milk-producing feed, her milk will diminish. By the 
end of the first week, under this treatment, the pigs 
may be taken away entirely, except, perhaps, one or 
two of the smallest, which may be allowed to go to her 
occasionally for a day or so longer. When a sow is try- 
ing to wean her pigs, and the milk has deminished, 
these precautions are not so necessary. 

Special care in feeding at so young an age is, of 
course, required. They should be fed regularly and 
not less than three times each day. Corn and oat 
meal, in equal proportion, cooked together and then 
thinned with skimmed milk, make an excellent diet 



CARE OF BOAR, BROOD SOWS, AND PIGS. 73 

for them. Wheat bran and middlings, the latter par- 
ticularly, may also be used with the corn meal. Oats 
is the best and safest of the grains to be given whole 
or without cooking at this age. Peas, ground with 
corn or oats, or mixed with middlings, and all cooked 
together, can be used to good advantage; also cooked 
potatoes. The latter should be well mashed and thor- 
oughly mixed with cooked meal, and the entire ration 
then thinned with skimmed milk. If cooked pota- 
toes, only partly broken up, are fed in bulk with the 
meal, the pigs are apt to gulp them down too fast and 
thus over-load their stomachs. They then gag, leave 
the trough sick, and throw up part of what they have 
eaten. They sometimes do this also with other food, 
when given them in bulk, particularly if they have 
been allowed to become very hungry. If their feed be 
reduced to a liquid state there is less danger in this 
way; and then, having drank to their satisfaction, 
threshed oats or other grain may be given them to 
crack and eat at more leisurely- 

Oil-meal, in the proportion of one part to six 
parts of corn meal, is good for young pigs. Barley 
and rye meal are also good. Variety in diet is advis- 
able, yet no great or sudden change should be made 
in the feeding of pigs so young. Give them at each 
feeding only so much as they will eat at the time and 
see that they have a clean and dry place to sleep, and 
at all times a grass lot for exercising. 



CHAPTER V. 



FATTENING SWINE, 



The Most Profitable Age to Fatten Swine — Farmers A and B>s 
Experience — Mixed Husbandry— Times have Changed — How to 
Feed Fattening Hogs — Their Food— When to Commence Feed- 
ing Corn — Winter Feeding — Neglect of farmers or Feeders- 
How Much Pork will a Bushel of Corn Make — Does Cooked 
Food Pay — Feeding Hogs for a Special Purpofe. 




THE MOST PROFITABLE AGE TO FATTEN SWINE. 

S to what age is the most profitable to fatten 
swine there is a vast difference in opinion, 
and it is something that very often has to be 
governed, to a great extent, by situation; whereas, one 
person who may be so situated that they can afford to 
keep their hogs until somewhat matured before fat- 
tening them, another person may find that practice 
quite to their disadvantage, as the following discus- 
sion shows: 

FARMER A's EXPERIENCE. 

I am in favor of the matured hog as a feeder. 
My experience for many years in the raising and feed- 
ing of hogs is that a hog from twelve to eighteen 
months old is the most profitable one to feed. I 
breed my sows to farrow by the first of May, or about 
the time the grass starts, then the loss of pigs is light 
on account of cold weather, and the sows will not 
require so much care in order to raise them. They 
seldom need to be put up at that time of the year on 
account of the weather if they have a suitable range, 



FATTENING SWINE. 75 

and will, as a rule, save as many pigs. Then with a 
little care and plenty of feed and grass the pigs can be 
weaned in eight weeks and the sows rebred. I then 
give the pigs good attention for two or three weeks 
in order to get them well started; after that they will 
do well on grass with very little feed. I will admit 
that they do not grow as fast as if well cared for and 
well fed, but they are more healthy, and the expense 
of so much feed and care is saved. Besides I get my 
second crop and do not have to carry my sows a year 
for one litter, which I claim will not pay any feeder. 
And while the early fattener is raising his pigs at the 
highest possible expense upon the most costly foods 
during their whole life and carrying his sows a whole 
year in order to get one litter, I keep my one litter 
growing in a comparatively inexpensive way and 
building up my hogs every day to resist disease more 
successfully than the mushroom development can pos- 
sibly do. This has been my practice for many years, 
and I claim it is the only true way of raising swine. 
I do not feed my young hogs very heavy the first 
year, but keep them until they have fully developed 
and have a frame strong in every part, which they 
will have done by the second fall, as they will then be 
a year or more old. They are then ready to take on 
fat rapidly. Now, as soon as the corn is in condition 
to feed, I commence to cut it up and feed it to them, 
and they begin to respond grandly at once and will 
take on fat so much more rapidly than a young hog, 
and with less risk as to disease. By proceeding in 
this manner they obtain a better weight and demand 
a better price in the market. 

FARMER B IS IN FAVOR OF THE PIG, 

And says: " No man can afford to keep a hog over 
winter, unless he keeps it for breeding purposes, and I 
firmly believe just what I say. No man can afford to 



76 FATTENING SWINE. 

do that which brings him less money than something 
else he can do, for his neighbor will do the other thing, 
and then he can not compete with his neighbor. No 
man can afford to persistently lose money when by so 
doing he can get no future returns. Therefore, no 
man can afford to winter hogs for other than breeding 
purposes. Whether a hog is kept one year or ten 
years, it is most profitable to have it farrowed in the 
early spring. The pig farrowed in the spring requires 
very little food, other than its mother's milk, till grass 
comes. After that it will grow fast and keep fat on 
good pasture, if it has the skimmed milk and other 
slops from the house for a few weeks after it goes to 
grass. I have tried this so often, and have so fre- 
quently seen others do it, that I know positively that it 
can be done. The past year my hogs were in extra 
good condition for market at any time after the first of 
June, and all the food they got was, as stated before, 
an abundance of blue grass, timothy and clover pas- 
ture. This was all they had until the middle of Sep- 
tember, when the grass began to fail. By that time 
they weighed not far from one hundred and seventy- 
five pounds. I know that many will smile at the idea 
of the common farmer making his nine or ten months 
old hogs, or pigs, if it pleases you better, weigh three 
hundred and twenty-five pounds. But I know it can 
be done, for I have tried it too often with the same re- 
sult to be mistaken. You can not do it with scrubs, 
you must have good hogs; you can not do it with good 
hogs if you neglect them, they must be well cared for. 
The market now demands a hog weighing about three 
hundred pounds, and a spring pig fed and treated as I 
have indicated, is what the market wants, and it will, 
therefore, bring the highest price. And last, but not 
least, it is true, that the longer a hog is kept the 
greater the likelihood of loss from disease or accident. 



FATTENING SWINE. 77 

and this is another argument in opposition to winter- 
ing hogs. 

MIXED HUSBANDRY. 

Here we have the experience of two breeders and 
feeders, both claiming that they have tried their sys- 
tem thoroughly, and both believing they are right. 
Experience and observation teaches me that mixed 
husbandry is the true system of farming for the ma- 
jority of farmers, and the same rule will hold good in 
swine husbandry, but should be varied according to 
circumstances. Some may have an abundance of 
cheap pasture land or forest to let their hogs run in, 
and, by so doing, can keep them until a year or more 
old, at a small expense, compared to what other farm- 
ers can, who live upon high-priced land and have to 
keep their hogs more confined. In the former case 
A's system would, no doubt, do, but it is a system that 
but few farmers in the older States could adopt at a 
profit; for I am satisfied, as a rule, where there is any- 
thing except a very light expense in keeping the hogs, 
no one can afford to keep a hog much longer than one 
year, except for breeding purposes. A's system of 
breeding, so as to get two litters a year, is very good 
with his system of feeding, for the spring pigs can be 
raised with very little expense, until late in the fall, 
when they would have acquired such age and size, as 
to bear heavy feeding, and if well fed and cared for 
until the following summer, should have obtained a 
good marketable weight, when I would consider it far 
more profitable to sell them than to feed them longer, 
and take the heavy attendant risks. For generally 
there is more disease during the late summer and fall* 
than any other time of the year, and the markets are 
better than later, when the heavy bulk of hogs are on 
the market. As for the fall pigs, they will have to 
be well cared for all winter, and until grass comes, if 



f» FATTENING SWINE. 

anything is expected of them; they could then be 
turned on grass until new corn is fit to feed, when they 
should be fed off as soon as possible, for I do not be- 
lieve in keeping a hog or any other feeding animal, 
one day longer than it takes to fit it for the market. 
There are instances where money is made by holding 
on for a while for a rise in the market; but that is only 
speculating, and the chances are, two to one, you lose. 
One is, the market will decline, and the other is, death. 
And this is where B has one advantage: He believes 
in forcing his pigs, by giving them as much feed and 
care in nine or ten months as A would his in fourteen 
months or longer, and thereby have as good hogs, and 
save the risks of death and interest on the money for 
six months, which is quite an item in his favor. But 
then he can only turn off one lot of hogs in a year, and 
have to carry his sows a whole year for one litter of 
pigs, or else breed young sows all the time; which, in 
either case, would offset his gain. Therefore I am in 
favor of two litters a year, or at least three litters in 
two years, and pushing them right along, never keep- 
ing them one day longer than I can help. 

TIMES HAVE CHANGED. 

A few years ago the most fashionable weight for a 
market hog was greater than now. Hogs of three or 
four hundred pounds gross weight were considered the 
best for market and were the favorites among the 
farmers. The farmer demanded a breed that would 
produce even heavier weight than this. The man 
who had the biggest hogs for market was credited 
with having the best lot. If a man had a consider- 
able number which would average about four hundred 
pounds it was noised about the neighborhood that this 
man had a superior lot of hogs, and he was spoken of 
as a good hog raiser. But this is now all changed. 
The market demand is for a hog weighing somewhere 



FATTENING SWINE. 79 

between two hundred and three hundred pounds, and 
the nearer it is to the middle ground between these 
the better, while it is just such a hog which has grown 
most fashionable among the farmers. The hog of 
medium weight is the popular market animal, be- 
cause consumers have learned that such an animal 
yields meat of the best quality, and they have grown 
more discriminating and critical. Medium weight 
hogs not only cut in pieces of the best size, but the 
flavor of the flesh is superior; hence, the consumer 
demands a two hundred and fifty pound hog. Pack- 
ers have favored this demand of consumers because 
the medium weight hog is the one most easily cured: 
While the packing was all done in winter large hogs 
could be cured without much trouble or loss. But 
now the packing is continued throughout the year, 
and for summer packing hogs of less than three hun- 
dred pounds weight are demanded. The demand of 
consumers and packers should lead the farmers to 
produce medium weight hogs, but this result has been 
hastened by the discovery on the part of farmers that 
such hogs were more profitable than those weighing 
about four hundred pounds. A hog which would 
attain to the latter weight had to be kept until eigh- 
teen to twenty months old, and therefore had to be fed 
throughout one winter and through part of the second. 
This made expensive pork and greatly increased the 
dangers of disease. Farmers come to figure more 
closely the cost of production and found that the 
cheapest pork was produced by growing and fattening 
a pig at the same time till it was nine or ten months 
old, by which process it could be made at that age to 
weigh from two hundred to three hundred pounds. 
Thus all circumstances have conspired to make the 
hog of this weight the popular one. 



80 FATTENING SWINE. 

HOW TO FEED FATTENING HOGS AND THEIR FOOD. 

With this, as with the age of swine, there is a vast 
difference of opinion. As for the food for them, corn 
occupies the first place. 

Dr. Stetson says: "It makes no difference to us 
where or when this grain originated, or who first 
found out its use for feeding and fattening hogs — no 
doubt he found it out himself, as he has the habit of 
helping himself to anything good to eat, providing 
he can always reach it — but that corn was intended 
for the the hog, and the hog for the corn, is an opin- 
ion generally accepted." 

The only difference of opinion is, how shall we 
feed it? When the time has come to fatten the hogs, 
especially in the fall, some prefer to put them up in a 
pen or small lot, so as to keep them quiet, and keep 
corn by them all the time, and think by this means 
they will take on flesh faster, while others prefer to 
turn them into the corn field and let them feed them- 
selves. Both are old and unprofitable ways of feeding, 
and should be abandoned, for they are not only waste- 
ful and show bad husbandry, but are the causes of the 
death of more hogs than any other methods of feeding. 
The true method of feeding hogs to insure health and 
thrift and produce fat, is to feed them two or three 
times a day, and only what they will eat up clean at 
each feed. 

WHEN TO COMMENCE FEEDING CORN. 

It is best to commence feeding corn upon grass, so 
as to not make the change of food too suddenly, and 
great care should be taken not to feed too much at the 
start, but gradually increase the quantity until it 
amounts to a full feed, then feed regularly, and no 
more than they will eat. This gives their food a 
chance to digest between feeds, while, if they are kept 
eating all the time, their food passes off only partially 



FATTENING SWINE. 81 

digested. The most profitable time to commence feed- 
ing is, as soon as the grass begins to get tough, or to 
depreciate. About then the roasting ears have formed, 
and if the corn is cut up and fed, stalk and all, on the 
grass, the hogs will eat stalk and ear for a while, and 
by the time the stalk and grain are hard, and it is de- 
sired to bring the hogs up to fuller feed, they will be 
ready to assimilate greater quantities of corn. This 
method of feeding not only economizes feed, but pre- 
vents shrinkage during drouth and keeps the hogs in 
prime condition, so there is no loss of flesh or derange- 
ment of the system. The change from scant grass to 
a gorge of new corn is too sudden. The vast amount 
of starch taken into the stomach can not be assimi- 
lated, and it either ferments or passes off undigested. 
Then the digestion is deranged, and that is why some 
of the hogs get sick. It is not cholera, and as Phil. 
Thrifton says, " There is no sense in squealing about 
bad luck and providence." It is simply lack of care, and 
a bad case of destructive feeding. The chances are, 
some of the hogs will die, and the most of them are so 
impaired that the corn will be fed at a loss. By chang- 
ing feed, and by care and good handling, they can be 
brought back to a fair appetite. But there will only 
be a gain of a few pounds to the bushel fed, compared 
to what there would have been if they had been com- 
menced with sooner, and fed more moderately until 
brought up to full feed; and it is best to continue to 
feed on grass, rather than in a pen, until the hogs are 
about fatted, for a certain amount of grass as rough 
food is essential to their health. 

FOR WINTER FEEDING. 

Late in the fall or for winter feeding, they should 
be put up in close quarters and fed on a dry earth or 
board floor, and given bran or mill feed slops twice a 
day, with occasionally a feed of vegetables of some 



82 FATTENING SWINE. 

kind, or else cut up clover hay and mix corn-meal or 
mill feed with it, then wet it with hot water and let it 
stand a while before feeding. This makes a variety of 
food which they will appreciate. They should always 
have a dry, clean, warm place to sleep. All pen fed 
hogs, or hogs fed in dry lots, should receive this atten- 
tion if you wish them to do well. Do not compel them 
or any other stock to drink bad or ice water, or go 
without, eat one kind of food all the time, stand around 
and shiver with cold, and sleep in the mud, if you ex- 
pect to get well paid for your feed and labor. 

NEGLECT OF FARMERS OR FEEDERS. 

A large proportion of farmers do not provide com- 
fortable shelter for their hogs. They have tried the 
experiment and know that they will not freeze to death 
in fence corners. Well, if they do not freeze to death, 
it is simply because they burn up in their systems 
enough of the farmer's corn (which would otherwise 
make pork) to keep themselves warm. It would cer- 
tainly be much cheaper to provide them with suitable 
protection against the inclemency of the weather, than 
to expect them to keep themselves warm by burning 
corn. An open shed, under which about one-half the 
hogs can stand, and which forces part of the hogs to 
pile upon top of the others, when some are liable to be 
seriously injured, is not sufficient. Of course, on a 
cold night, hogs will do this to a greater or less extent, 
but in suitable quarters it will rarely be done to their 
injury. Sheds, of course, may be made too warm, and 
subject the animals to colds, but no careful farmer 
should dispense with them on this account. 

Many people also realize less from their feeding 
operations than they otherwise would by attempting 
to prepare for sale, at the same time, a lot of hogs of 
different ages and conditions. In consequence of this 
diversity part are ready for market a long way in 



FATTENING SWINE. 83 

advance of others and consume considerable corn 
while waiting for the others to be gotten into the 
desired condition. A better way would be to select 
lots as nearly uniform as possible that they may all be 
ready for market at about the same time. After they 
are worked off another lot may be finished off, and 
so on. 

Many people have an ambition to make their hogs 
as heavy as possible and seem unwilling to sell a hog 
until they know that it has reached such a weight as 
render it almost impossible to put on another pound. 
These extra heavy hogs are very fine, but it is too 
often the case that the last hundred pounds has been 
put on at such an expense as to eat up all the profit 
of feeding. 

An animal, having gained fifty pounds in weight, 
will not put on another fifty pounds on the same food 
that was required for the first fifty, and the third fifty 
will require more food than the second fifty, and so on 
until a point is reached where no amount of food will 
increase the weight. So a hog of certain weight, vary- 
ing with individuals, and perhaps with breeds, can be 
fed at a large profit, and beyond this they will make 
but very small returns. 

HOW MUCH PORK WILL A BUSHEL OF CORN MAKE? 

The great question of the value of corn for swine 
has never been and can not be actually demonstrated. 
How many pounds of pork a bushel of corn will make 
is what no man has yet found out. All experiments 
in feeding have only proven what certain hogs, under 
certain conditions, have made to the bushel of corn. 
Now, whether this gain w T as ten pounds, more or less, 
to the bushel fed, it established this and no more, that 
in certain conditions so many pounds of pork have 
been made from a bushel of corn. There are so 
many things to be taken into account, as age, breed- 



84 FATTENING SWINE. 

ing, the season of the year, mortality, etc., that any- 
thing like a general average is almost, or entirely, out 
of the question. If anything is well established in 
feeding it is that the young of swine, as well as other 
animals, will make a very much better gain from food 
consumed than older animals. The gain is always 
much greater in warm weather than in cold; and old 
corn, either soaked or cooked before fed, is much bet- 
ter, and will produce more flesh than if fed dry, for it 
is much easier masticated and digested. The way to 
feed corn in any form to get the greatest returns from 
it is on grass. Three bushels fed then to young hogs 
will produce more pork than five bushels fed later in 
the season to older hogs. The best profits in raising 
and feeding hogs can be obtained until they will 
weigh about two hundred and fifty pounds; after that 
the profits are less. This again shows us how impor- 
tant it is to take care of the young hogs and not keep 
them any longer than we can help. 

WILL IT PAY TO GRIND AND COOK CORN FOR OUR HOGS? 

Upon this subject of grinding and cooking food for 
animals, I have been a close observer, and have had 
some experience, not only for hogs, but for dairy cows; 
and as I am so frequently asked this question, " Does 
it pay to cook food for hogs or other stock ?" I will here 
give my opinion upon this subject. There is no doubt 
but that greater gains can be derived from cooked 
food than from uncooked food, but if enough to pay 
for cooking it, is the question. When the price of 
grain and other feed is high and where labor and fuel 
are cheap, as is often the case, it will pay to cook food 
for stock, or at least for some kinds of stock, such as 
milch cows or sows suckling pigs, in order to increase 
the flow of milk; or, for young pigs, to aid in diges- 
tion. But where grain is cheap as it is in most parts 
of this country, and there is such expense attached to 



FATTENING SWINE. 85 

preparing the food, by grinding, cutting and cooking 
it, I doubt very much if enough gain can be made in 
the operation to pay for doing so. Any young animal 
with good teeth will grind and digest its own food, 
when not over fed and crowded ; when a crowding pro- 
cess is used, and the animal is being forced to produce 
either milk or fat, it is best to cook, or, at least, soak 
the feed, so as to be more easily digested. Where the 
cost of machinery, the labor of running it, in cutting 
and grinding the feed, the cost of fuel and labor in 
cooking it, are all taken into consideration, it is a ques- 
tion if there is enough profit derived thereby to pay 
the general farmer for doing so, or, at least, I have seen 
it well tested by practical men, and abandoned en- 
tirely. There are times though, when it can be done 
at a profit, but they are only when feed is high, and 
the cost of preparing it is low. There is some grain 
that should never be fed unless it is cooked, or soaked. 
For instance, wheat; if it is fed to stock dry it is not 
properly masticated, and when taken into the stomach, 
it swells so as to cause bad results; and old corn is 
better cooked, or soaked twenty-four hours before feed- 
ing, as it is more easily digested. In instances of this 
kind, or where we want to increase the flow of milk, or 
we wish to establish something else in its place, cooked 
food will pay. For we all know that nature's element, 
milk, cannot be equaled even in the laboratory of the 
chemist; and when milk can not be obtained in 
sufficient quantity, their drink should be as palatable 
and as near blood heat as possible in order to get large 
quantities of it into their stomachs. Two parts of corn 
and one of oats, ground together, and added to an 
equal bulk of wheat middlings, will prove satisfactory 
to the taste of the pig, and good effects will follow its 
use. It is a well established law in the physiology of 
digestion, that it is not the quantity of food eaten that 



86 FATTENING SWINE. 

nourishes the body, but the quantity digested, or as- 
similated. If it is the last feather that breaks the 
camel's back, so it is the extra grain of corn digested 
that pays. It takes a certain amount of food to sup- 
ply the natural waste of the system, and all above this 
quantity is stored up in the form of fat and muscle. 
Corn, soaked in cold water, for from twenty-four to 
fourty-eight hours, is rendered very much more digesti- 
ble in the stomach of the pig than when not so treated. 
Always keep in mind that the greatest quantity eaten 
and digested is the true secret of success in fattening 
animals. 

A few words as to the importance of fluids in the 
system to aid assimilation. All animals, from man 
down, that, in a state of health, consume a large quan- 
tity of fluids, take on flesh in the same proportion. It 
is not the nourishment contained in the lager beer of 
our Teutonic friends that gives them their barrel- 
shaped abdomen. The same quantity of water, pure, 
and uncombined, with the same amount of nutriment 
consumed, would produce the same result. Show me 
a fat man, woman, or child, or any other animal, and, 
if not proven greater drinkers, they are the exception, 
and not the rule. The chemist will tell us, that it 
takes so many pounds of green grass to be equal in 
nourishment to a given quantity of dry hay. But 
it is well known that grass is more " hankered after," 
and more readily assimilated and taken up by the di- 
gestive apparatus, more especially in animals that do 
not chew the cud. 

There are just three things that give the hog its 
commercial importance: First, their flesh can be pre- 
served for use, and kept for an indefinite time, as the 
flesh of no other domestic animal can be. The second 
is their extraordinary fecundity, six, twelve, eighteen, 
and twenty-four, or even more pigs at a single litter. 



FATTENING SWINE. 87 

A sow would hardly die of old age, before she might 
become the common ancestor of more hogs than are 
now to be counted in these United States. The third, 
and most important characteristic of the hog is, that 
he is a hog, ever ready and anxious to assimilate any 
article of food that comes in his reach. In plain 
English, the hog has a stomach made for digestion. 
All that any hog wants is plenty to eat, and his neigh- 
bors must look out for themselves. Yea, verily, any 
hog with a full stomach is at peace with himself and 
the world. 

FEEDING HOGS FOR A SPECIAL PURPOSE. 

When hogs are put up for final finish on corn they 
are expected to return a fair profit for the expense in- 
curred in the shape of a fat carcass. It has been a 
time-honored custom in this country to fatten with 
corn, and but very little other food is used after the 
hogs are penned. Although a fat hog is desirable,- yet 
the majority of farmers prefer to have the meat inter- 
spersed with a proportion of lean. That the carcass 
may be improved in quality without loss of weight, by 
judicious feeding, has been plainly demonstrated at 
the Missouri Agricultural College, where several lots 
of hogs were fed on different kinds of food. In addi- 
tion to corn the food consisted of shipstuff, used alone, 
and also on some lots in connection with corn. The 
hogs fed on whole corn consumed less than did hogs 
fed on corn meal, but the gain was greater from the 
ground corn in proportion to quantity. 

In comparing the value of corn and shipstuff, 
two lots of pigs were used for experiment, the period 
being from March to November, the one lot on whole 
corn and the other on shipstuff. 

One corn-fed pig dressed 82 pounds to the 100 
pounds and a ship stuff fed pig 80.6 pounds. On 
severing the heads of the corn fed pigs scarcely a 



88 FATTENING SWINE. 

trace of lean meat could be found, while in the ship 
stuff fed pigs it was decidedly more abundant. Lean 
meat was also selected from the thighs, loins, and 
shoulders of each lot and examined under a micro- 
scope. The shipstuff fed pigs carried less fat, even in 
the fibres of lean meat, than the corn-fed lot. The 
results were sufficient to show that the exclusive use 
of corn meal for a feeding ration is detrimental to a 
vigorous and healthy muscular development, produc- 
ing a pig easily subject to disease, distasteful and 
more costly than necessary. The relation of the ship- 
stuff to the meal in the trials deserves attention. It 
was found that 93 pounds of shipstuff gave the same 
gain that 100 of corn meal gave. Shipstuff, however, 
has been considered but of little value heretofore by 
farmers, and this has seriously interfered with its 
general use. Repeated trials with it showed that 100 
pounds gave 28.1 pounds gain, and 100 pounds 
corn meal gave 26.4 pounds gain. Having repeatedly 
advocated the importance of keepings pigs in a grow- 
ing condition during their early stages, and the use of 
different kinds of food, as it promotes a better quality 
of carcass, it is gratifying to know that the experi- 
ments of the Directors of the Missouri Agricultural 
College is the same. 

In feeding hogs on corn alone the animals are 
deprived of many essential elements demanded for 
purposes of growth. Laying on an excess of fat ren- 
ders the meat unpalatable. A comparison of the 
weights above shows that there is but little difference 
in the gain between corn and shipstuff, while the quality 
of the meat from the hogs fed on shipstuff alone is 
superior. Nor is it necessary to use shipstuff 
alone. Hogs may be increased in weight by using 
ground oats as well as shipstuff, and while being 
made fat in one respect will also have a large propor- 



FATTENING SWINE. 89 

tion of lean meat. The opinion that corn is abso- 
lutely necessary for hardening the fat, and must not 
be omitted, is mainly correct; it is really superior to 
other grains in this respect. 

When corn is ground into meal it should never be 
fed alone, as it packs too close in the stomach or intes- 
tines. It should have whole oats, barley, rye, or 
course bran mixed with it. If crushed fine, cob and 
grain together, and then cooked, it is better than the 
meal and can be fed alone, The cob has not only a 
large amount of nutriment in it, but prevents the 
packing of the meal. 

Corn is a staple crop and farmers find it more con- 
venient for feeding to hogs than anything else and 
should not discard its use; but the farmer who desires 
to produce pork of the best quality should feed ground 
oats and shipstuff in connection with it. Nor should 
roots and a variety of food be omitted, as such food 
conduces to the health of animals, and this is very 
important, owing to the fact that a healthy hog will 
grow and increase rapidly. It should be considered 
also that good, warm, dry quarters will save food and 
greatly conduce to greater attainment of weight. 
professor sanborn's experiments. 

Professor Sanborn, of the Missouri Agricultural 
College, according to some of the agricultural papers, 
reports interesting experiments of six years exper- 
ience in feeding pigs upon whole corn, corn meal, and 
shipstuff, and in all his experiments the shipstuff 
proved the superior feed. He calls attention to the 
fact that 93 pounds of shipstuff gave the same gain 
in live weight as 100 pounds of corn, and says: " This 
has been the continous result for six years," which he 
regards as a demonstration of its correctness, as the 
first three years experience was with 30 head of pigs. 
These experiments are valuable and should prove 



90 FATTENING SWINE. 

beneficial to all swine breeders, and especially those 
that regard all other feed for swine second to corn, or 
think that they need no other feed than corn and go 
on continuously feeding to them that great fat and 
heat creating food. 



CHAPTER VI. 



PURELY BRED SWINE, 



Pedigreed Swine— Where the Problem Comes In — Private Regis- 
try—A Good Time to Buy Purely Bred Swine— The Show Pen- 
That Fine Pig and Its Care— Do not Go too Much on the 
Color— Where too Keep the Young Boar — Breeding Swine for 
Breeding Purposes— This Business Demands a Good Profit- 
When to Breed the Sows— Take Care of the Brood Sows and 
Pigs — Fitting Swine for Exhibition or Sale. 




PEDIGREED SWINE. 

GREAT deal has been written, and is still be- 
ing written about pedigreed swine; in fact lately 
more than ever, as all pure breeds are being 
registered in their respective herd books, and of course 
it brings out hot discussions pro and con as to its fal- 
lacy. The breeders of purely bred swine, supported by 
the agricultural press claim that they should be regis- 
tered, because the general public demands to know the 
history of an animal when it is offered for sale. Reg- 
istered stock is worth the most money because, and 
only because, the herd book tells precisely what the 
purchaser is getting when he buys. No one claims 
that the fact of registry multiplies or strengthens the 
merit of the animal; it simply tells where the animal 
came from. A thoroughbred animal is just as good in 
itself without registry as it is with it. But how are 
we to know that? Simply this: If the animal is en- 
titled to registry it must be purely bred, and if it is not 
entitled to registry it is considered a grade. Here is an 



92 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

animal declared by its breeder to be perfect and purely 
bred, but he declines to register his stock, and, of 
course, can not give any registered pedigree. He may 
declare the herd book a fraud, and of no value, and say 
that he can give a pedigree without going to a register. 
The answer to this is, if the pedigree is worth any- 
thing it will run back to registered stock, and, if the 
breeding has been pure, the animal is entitled to reg- 
istry. 

It is to be taken for granted that every man recog- 
nizes the established principles of breeding; that he 
acknowledges that there is such a thing as prepotency, 
and that he knows unpedigreed stock may produce its 
like or may not. If this well-known truth is not rec- 
ognized, the only advice to be given is, to keep out of 
fine stock breeding. This truth must be recognized 
and settles the matter concerning the value of regis- 
tering. 

Whether these swine herd books tell the purchaser 
precisely what he is getting when he buys, is another 
question. It is natural to presume, as with other herd 
books, that they do, but the great prolificness of swine 
makes it doubtful. The swine breeders claim now to 
have these registers so formed that fraudulent pedi- 
grees cannot be entered. That is, in order to register, 
the pig must trace to registered stock. This was done 
to prevent fraudulent freeders from selling bogus pigs, 
and to prevent the records from becoming too cumber- 
some. 

Now, if the swine breeders have these books so 
formed that they can control the records, and trace the 
pedigree of a hog as the pedigrees of cattle and horses 
can be traced, so as to expose and keep out fraudulent 
breeders, they have accomplished something that will 
go a long way toward improving American swine. 
This will evidently be the case now more than in 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 93 

former years, as the different improved breeds are 
more numerous, and more on an equality, and all 
breeders are striving to gain first honor. Therefore it 
will put the breeders of all the respective breeds more 
upon their guard, as they must depend upon pure 
blood and merit, more than pedigree and color, to gain 
or hold first honors; the breed that will win, is the 
breed that has the quality. Whether the public rec- 
ords can control that quality, is for the future to de- 
termiue. 

PRIVATE REGISTERS. 

There is one thing that every breeder of swine who 
breeds for breeding purposes should do, that is, keep a 
correct private record of all the stock he sells or keeps 
for breeding purposes. This is not only necessary in 
order to keep from selling his customers pigs too near 
akin at the present time, but also in the future. Then 
if he records his stock in the public records, in case 
his herd is diminished by sickness, he can trace back, 
by reference to his registry, all that is left, and in this 
way make less mistakes than where he trusted too 
much to his memory. Even if breeding only a few 
hogs, this is absolutely necessary. 

In breeding for home use, that is, when a breeder's 
customers are in his own, or adjoining counties, it does 
not make so much difference whether his stock is re- 
corded in the public records or not, unless so desired; 
for his own private register is all that is generally 
needed to satisfy any customer, providing the hogs 
have the quality. When a breeder advertises largely, 
and expects to ship stock abroad to all parts of the 
country, he will almost be compelled to adhere to the 
custom, as in these days it does not do to be a mite be- 
hind in any business, and it is easier to float with the 
current than to row against it. 



94 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

A GOOD TIME TO BUY PURELY BRED SWINE. 

Every few years there seems to be a lull in the 
excitement that prevails throughout the great corn 
producing States upon improved breeds of swine, and 
many gentlemen who have invested large sums of 
money in founding herds for breeding purposes aban- 
don the business as an unprofitable one owing to the 
great falling off in the demand for purely bred pigs. 

It is true that the quality of the swine throughout 
the country at large has been greatly improved by the 
efforts of the leading breeders during the past years 
and that first class specimens of all the leading breeds 
may now be found in almost every neighborhood, but 
it must be borne in mind that none of our domestic 
animals deteriorate so rapidly as swine; and it will 
require but a few generations of neglect to lose all the 
excellence that years of care and attention have 
attained. Careful selection of the very best for breed- 
ing purposes, good judment in coupling, generous 
feeding, and the utmost care to avoid the bad effects 
of too much in-breeding, are all essential to prevent 
the deterioration, which is enevitable when these are 
neglected. 

When these lulls occur it is an unusually favor- 
able time for men of judgment and skill to embark in 
the business. The neglect of the past year or two is 
beginning to be seen and felt. Prices are low, good 
breeding stock can be bought for almost a song, and 
the prudent man should take time by the forelock and 
prepare for the great demand for good, purely bred 
swine, which is certain to speedily follow the present 
season of neglect and indifference. 

Those who wish to commence breeding purely bred 
swine will find this a much better time to buy good 
breeding stock than when the demand is greater, for 
three reasons: First, there being no demand, the 



PURELY BKED SWINE. 95 

breeders are more negligent as to the care of their 
stock, and therefore it is not so fat, and one can see 
better what he is buying. Second, as they are more 
heavily stocked and want to sell out there is much 
greater advantage in making a selection than there 
would be if they had less stock or did not want to 
sell. Third, they are not apt to be so high in their 
prices, which very often is quite an item to the new 
beginner. 

SHOW PENS. 

New beginners who are contemplating the breed- 
ing of fine stock should not visit fairs or show pens 
for the purpose of buying their breeding stock, or if 
they do, should use good judgment and discretion as 
to what they buy. Not because exhibitors do not 
show their best stock, for as a rule they do, but 
because they are likely to be over-fat and to have been 
tampered with, to have been fed all kinds of food, 
and to have received such attention as the new pur- 
chaser could not give them in their new home, or 
would most likely fail to give. Therefore, they are 
not likely to do as well or to be so profitable as those 
that have never been on exhibition. The animal that 
is to develop into a strong, vigorous one, with the 
greatest amount of vitality and force, must be fed so as 
to produce force and fibre, and not fat only. This the 
exhibitor may not have had in view. He may have 
fed only for plumpness and fine appearance. His 
interest is to please the eye in order to sell the animal 
or win the premium. Fat covers up defects and 
rounds out perfections. This is the reason a fat ani- 
mal with fine appearance always wins the premium 
and outsells one that is in only good breeding con- 
dition. And then, when an animal has taken a 
premium it always attaches a fictitious value to it as a 
breeder that is of no value to the buyer. In most all 



96 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

cases it will be money saved and money made, to visit 
some of the breeders, and look over some of their stock 
at home, and buy out of the field in preference to the 
show pen. This precaution is just as essential in buy- 
ing any other stock as it is in hogs, especially cattle 
or sheep, Hogs, cattle and sheep are more likely to 
be over-fat than horses, and more likely to be barren. 
A great many fine show yard animals are barren and 
will not breed, and are traveled about from one show 
to another only for the purpose of showing them for 
the premium, and waiting for an inexperienced buyer. 
In buying these fine and high-priced animals, it is 
always best to secure with them a written certificate 
or guarantee that they are breeders. 

THAT FINE PIG AND ITS CARE. 

There is so much disappointment among buyers of 
fine pigs that it may be well to give the subject a little 
attention. As a breeder remarked, the breeder or 
farmer who sends off for a choice pig, and pays from 
f wenty to one hundred dollars and express charges for 
it, naturally expects upon its arrival something very 
fine, and would be expected to think enough of his 
purchase to give it good care and to have a place for it 
when it arrives at the farm. But truth on both sides 
of this question compels the statement that the major- 
ity of the buyers are disappointed upon the arrival of 
the pig, or if not, often do not know how to handle it, 
or neglect to handle it in such a way as to secure 
the greatest benefit from it, and to keep it up to the 
standard it had attained before its purchase, providing 
it was a good one. Having been engaged in the breed- 
ing of fine hogs for about ten years, I will give to the 
readers of this work the benefit of my experience in 
the business. I think all honest breeders of fine hogs 
will agree with me that, First, when the purchace of a 
fine pig is con torn plated, the purchnsers should visit 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 97 

some responsible breeder and select it themselves, or 
at least assist in doing so. They know what kind of 
hogs they have, and what they wish to mate the hog 
with better than the breeder does, and by having quite 
a number of hogs to select from, they can no doubt 
suit themselves better than most any breeder could by 
writing to him, and then both will be better satisfied, 
and the trip is most always worth the expense in one 
way or another. If the distance is not so great but 
that the journey can be made in a day with a team, 
enough money can generally be saved to pay well for 
making it. Second, remember that the best pedigree 
is the pig first, then its ancestors. If they are all of 
such quality as to suit the purchaser, some confidence 
can be put in the paper, providing the party is honor- 
able. There are to day too many swine sold by rec- 
ommendation, but it is the buyer's fault if he is 
cheated. Every man should buy on his own judg- 
ment, and then have no one to blame. In buying by 
correspondence, the purchaser should try and make 
his order as plain to the breeder as possible. If it is a 
male pig that is wanted, describe not only the kind of 
pig that is wanted, but the kind of sows that he is ex- 
pected to be used with. This not only gives the 
breeder the knowledge of the kind of a hog that is 
wanted and what is expected of him, but gives him a 
chance to use his judgment in the matter, and in this 
way he can generally select a pig that will give much 
better satisfaction. 

DO NOT GO TOO MUCH ON THE COLOR. 

Unless for some good reason a pig of a certain 
color is wanted, I would say, do not put too much im- 
portance on the color, — better discard the color than 
any other good point. Any of our pure breeds are true 
enough to their color. One thing more: too much 
must not be expected in a pig two or three months old. 



98 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

One may order the kind of pig he wants, and the 
breeder may think he has a pig that, judging from its 
ancestors, will make the kind of a hog wanted. Give 
it time, and then if it proves a snare, the next time a 
pig is wanted, see it first before buying it, and do not 
blame the pig or the breeder because its pedigre was 
furnished, for that was only on paper, nor the editor of 
the journal that contained his advertisement, for he 
probably knew no more of the man than you did, and, 
like yourself, was imposed upon. 

When the pig arrives at its new home, care should 
be taken not to feed it too much for a few days. The 
kind of food it should have at first is very important. 
It may have been boxed several days, its food has been 
dry, and of drink it has had none; hence, laxative food 
is the kind it needs now. Turn it out and give it a 
drink of cold water first, after that, some good house 
slops or milk, with mill feed or oats in it, for a few 
days, and it will soon recover from the effects of its 
trip and come back to its usual appetite and condition, 
when its feed can be gradually increased. A great 
many buyers of fine pigs want to give them too much 
care in the way of food when they first get them home. 
They will feed plenty and often; first one of the family 
will feed them, and then another one, and before they 
are aware of it, the hogs are foundered, and they won- 
der what ails them. They have had too much food, 
particularly corn. 

WHERE TO KEEP THE YOUNG BOAR. 

There is no better place for the young boar than a 
grass lot, large enough to furnish him fresh grass and 
room for exercise, out of sight and hearing of other 
hogs. Here he will exercise enough to keep strong and 
in prime condition, if fed regularly and judiciously. 
He is half the herd, and he must be kept quiet and in 
strong condition, if he is to impress his qualities with 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 99 

surety on the coming pig crop. A pig thus cared for, 
if well bred, will not likely prove a delusion and a 
snare. A pig of equally good breeding and qualities, 
penned in a dry lot, with corn and mud, and brim- 
ming sows always in sight, will soon be out of condi- 
tion, and is likely to be restless and thriftless by 
breeding time, and without the strength and force that 
should belong to the successful sire. His owner be- 
comes disgusted with his late purchase, and denounces 
the breeder of the pig; whereas, the fault is not in the 
pig or breeder, but in the ignorance and carelessness of 
the owner. 

BREEDING SWINE FOR BREEDING PURPOSES. 

There is no material difference in breeding swine 
for breeding purposes and feeding purposes. The suc- 
cessful breeder of feeders can easily become the suc- 
cessful breeder of breeders; for the same law and rule 
governs both, the system is the same, and to be suc- 
cessful with either one the person must have a natural 
love for the business. This desire for the business is 
the first and most essential element, for then there is 
nothing that is too much trouble for the breeder to do. 
He will always have his hogs fat and looking well no 
difference how the weather is or how much work it 
may take. If the weather is cold he will get up at all 
hours of the night to look after some favorite sow that 
he is expecting to farrow and never forsake her until 
he sees her new-born family safe. Then he will care- 
fully house, feed, and care for her and the pigs, never 
neglecting them for a single day, or even a feed, until 
they are disposed of. There is no food too good for 
them to eat, no difference how much trouble it may be 
to prepare it, it must be done. They are carefully 
watched and kept out of the mud, and if they do get 
in it, it is washed or cleaned off. The house or pen is 
kept warm, but well ventilated and clear of filth or 



100 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

vermin. Good feeding troughs are provided for both 
sow and pigs and kept clean. The pigs and some- 
times the sows are turned out every day for a ramble 
or exercise, the time being governed by the weather. 
The feeding is done as regularly almost as the clock 
strikes, and at least three times a day, and often five 
times a day, the age of the swine, or their preparation 
for some special purpose, governing that to some ex- 
tent. The feed is always of the best, and carefully 
given in quantity as the size or condition of the swine 
may require. Every precaution is taken not to make 
them wild, always preferring to call instead of drive 
them, for by this means they can be kept quiet so that 
they can be carefully handled at all times, which is a 
very important thing with all hogs, and especially 
breeders. By complying with these rules, and some 
more I will speak of farther on, with good judgment, 
plenty of money, and a good place to carry on busi- 
ness, any one can become a successful breeder of 
swine for breeding purposes. 

THIS BUSINESS DEMANDS A GOOD PROFIT. 

The business of breeding and handling purely bred 
swine, as well as other purely bred stock, ought to, 
judging from the nature of the case, be a profitable 
one. The cost of conducting the business, not only in 
procuring the stock and caring for it, but the risks 
that are combined with it and the cost of suitable 
buildings and fixtures demand for the operator a good 
margin on which to work. The breeder who begins 
by working too close in this direction or neglects his 
business must fail outright and quit the business in 
disgust. There are many instances known in this 
country where the breeding of purely bred swine re- 
sulted in the accumulation of considerable wealth. A 
great many wealthy men, though, have gone into the 
business of breeding purely bred swine as a pastime, 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 101 

or a source of expected profit, but finding it no easy 
matter to accumulate a fortune at it, quit the business; 
for the reverses are sometimes heavy, and even under 
the most favorable circumstances it is not always 
profitable. 




IMPROVED POLAND-CHINA. 

The breeding of purely bred stock of any kind, in 
order to be made profitable, requires money, good 
judgment and management, not only in buying the 
stock, but in the management and selling of it, in the 
latter case especially. In order to make it both profit- 
able and pleasant, as I said before, the breeder should 
have a natural love and desire for the business. A 
good situation is also necessary, although most any 
place can be made suitable with labor and money. A 
dry, rolling piece of land, with plenty of good water 
and shade, is the best, for it is much healthier and far 
more pleasant than a wet, level place. In purchasing 
the breeding stock to begin with, nothing but first-class 
individual stock should be purchased at any price. It 
should be purely bred of whatever breed the breeder 
desires, and of good, thirfty, growing stock. Good 
judgment should be used in procuring this stock, for 
it is not always the highest priced animal, or those 
that are purchased the farthest away from home that 
are the best. 

Breeding stock of any kind is often held above its 
worth. It is not infrequently the case that a breeder 
asks much more than the value of the animal, or the 
cost of its production will warrant. The purchaser 



102 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

must be on his guard on this point. This, however, is 
rather exceptional, for, as a rule, breeding stock is 
worth all it commands in the market. 

WHEN TO BREED THE SOWS. 

When the stock is brought together again, good 
judgment must be used in the breeding, so as to have 
the pigs come at the proper time. If the herd, or any 
part of it, is to be exhibited the coming season, the 
pigs must come so as to be of the proper age to suit 
the premium list; or, if only intended to be sold dur- 
ing the season without being exhibited, it is best to 
have them come as early in the spring as possible, so 
as to have the advantage of as much age and to be as 
early in the market as possible, as pigs with the ad- 
vantage of a few weeks in age have quite an advantage 
over the younger ones, either in the show-pen or in the 
market. Of course, in order to have these early pigs, 
and to save and care for them, good quarters of some 
kind are necessary. It is not necessary that these 
buildings should be costly, but they should be so con- 
structed as to be warm, easily ventilated and kept clean. 
For information on this subject see plan of pens. 

Now, the next thing on the programme, is the care 
of these hogs. This is something that breeders cannot 
afford to slight in the least, if they expect to compete 
with others. They must have their hogs fat, sleek and 
clean, looking well at all times, and ready for a pur- 
chaser, for in this business, like any other, no man 
knows when a buyer may come. Therefore, be ready 
at all times and for all kinds of customers, for the least 
tiling will sometimes drive a buyer away; such as a 
coughing pig, or the hogs not fat and looking well, 
dirty, filthy pens, and perhaps some of the pigs or 
hogs lying around in the manure pile or a dusty shed. 
The buyer will soon begin to talk about disease and 
leave. Remember that nice, fat, clean, sleek hogs, 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 103 

with everything around clean, pleases the eye; and 
that is what is wanted if the sale of the hogs is 
expected, and the breeder expects to prosper. 

TAKE CARE OF THE BROOD SOWS AND PIGS. 

As the sows are bred, each one should be carefully 
registered so as to know when they will farrow. There 
is but little variation from sixteen weeks as the time 
sows carry their pigs; the older ones not infrequently 
going beyond a few days, and the younger ones farrow- 
ing a few days earlier than this. If proper care be 
taken in the management of the boar, allowing but one 
service to each sow, the dates at which the pigs should 
come can be made a matter of record, and the neces- 
sary attention given the sows as the time for their 
farrowing approaches, when they should be put up 
separately and in time in order to prevent any acci- 
dent that may cause the sow to lose all or part of her 
pigs. If their quarters are warm and dry it is about 
all that is necessary, except in extreme cold weather, 
when the pigs may need looking after. Here is one 
place where it pays to have the sows quiet, for at the 
critical hour assistance can be given the pigs to get 
around to their mother's breast, and after they are all 
snug and safe, if she and the pigs are covered up with 
an old horse blanket or a piece of carpet she will 
remain quiet long enough for the pigs to get dry and 
warm and nurse. After that there is but little danger 
of their perishing with cold; and in this way, some- 
times, a fine litter of pigs can be raised that would 
otherwise perish. The old saying, " take care of the 
pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves," 
will hold good in swine breeding; take care of the pigs 
and the hogs will take care of themselves. In one 
case, without pennies you have no dollars, and in the 
other, without pigs you have no hogs. 



104 PURELY BRED SWINE. 

FITTING SWINE FOR EXHIBITION OR SALE. 

From four to six weeks before the exhibition or 
sale of the swine they should be put up and become 
accustomed to being handled, washed, and brushed, 
which should be done every day or two. After they 
are brushed dry they should be oiled; this will make 
the skin soft and pliable and the hair glossy. For 
this purpose there is nothing better than lard and 
sperm oil, equal parts mixed. Dampen a sponge or 
woollen cloth with it and oil them, but do not use too 
much oil, as it will show, look bad, and cause remarks. 

When the weather is hot, they should be kept 
out of the sun during the hottest part of the day and 
should not be allowed to wallow in the mud. In case 
they do, it should be washed off in the evening and 
not allowed to remain on over night, as it will cause 
the hair and skin to become rough. Never maim or 
disfigure, the nose, tail, or ears in any way if it can 
possibly be avoided. If they have been rung, cut the 
rings in two and take them out before exhibiting 
them. 

If one wishes to use ear marks, I know of no bet- 
ter plan than the patent ear tag. These should be put 
in the ears at or before weaning time to guard against 
mistakes as to what sow certain pigs belong. These 
tags are numbered, and the numbers should be care- 
fully registered. In putting them in care should be 
taken in the operation, for they may cause the pig 
to carry a bad ear, especially if the ear becomes sore. 

Some breeders object to these ear tags, as they 
claim they gather mud, and sometimes are the cause 
of the ear being frozen, or becoming sore, and use in 
their place an ear punch, an instrument similar to a 
leather punch. With this they punch holes in the 
ears, and thus mark the pigs. When this is done, the 
pigs should be carefully registered, giving the number 



PURELY BRED SWINE. 1Q5 

of holes in the ear, their position, and the sow to 
which they belong. 

In order to take them to fairs or exhibitions of any 
kind, and in order to ship them if sold, each hog 
should be boxed in a good, strong, but light box, with 
a small trough or tin vessel in it, to water and feed in. 
If the breeder is well supplied with cards, showing 
whose hogs they are, what kind they are, how old they 
are, how much they weigh, and whether they are for 
sale, he will save answering a great many questions. 
Now, one thing more to new beginners. When they 
have thrown out their card to the public, they must 
not expect to sell all the hogs that are needed the first 
year they are in the business; if they do, they are lia- 
ble to be disappointed. It takes time, energy and a 
great deal of experience to establish a reputation as a 
first-class stock breeder who commands respect and 
patronage. 



CHAPTER VII. 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 



Improve Your Stock— Scrub Hogs— Fixing the Characteristics of 
a Breed of Hogs— An Illustration of How to Form a Breed- 
Merit and Pedigree — Roots, Vegetables, Pasture, etc., for 
Hogs — Ringing Hogs — How to Hold Them- 




IMPEOVE YOUR STOCK. 

JHE advantage of good stock over scrub stock is 
daily becoming more evident; an incontroverti- 
ble argument in favor of the former. This is a 
pleasant fact to contemplate by those breeding up their 
herds, and should serve as an incentive to future effort 
by others who have hitherto refrained from so doing. 
The improvement in stock throughout the country is 
marked, but the large increase of purely bred stock, the 
frequent public sales and the reasonable prices at 
which they sell, enable men to make still more rapid 
improvements in the grading up of the herds that cut 
the chief figure in our meat supply. 

In passing through the country now, one cannot 
fail to note the changes that have taken place in most 
sections, as regards the improvements in all kinds of 
stock, and especially swine. People have begun to 
know the difference existing between a good hog and a 
scrub. One may occasionally find a person who has 
made no improvement in his swine, but he is only an 
exception. He will soon fall into the ranks, for it is 
evident to anyone that it is as easy to raise a good hog 
as a poor one, and far more profitable. Purely bred 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 107 

swine of most all kinds have become so plentiful that 
it is no longer a difficult or costly matter to procure 
them, and once procured, they reproduce themselves 
so rapidly that it is very evident that in the near 
future the purely bred, or high grades of swine, will 
take the place of the native, or scrub hog, even in the 
most remote rural districts. 

Other improved stock has made very rapid pro- 
gress in the last ten years, and no doubt will continue 
to do so in the future, for the more plentiful it becomes 
the easier it is obtained, and the more enlightened the 
people become, the more it will be sought after; but on 
account of its being more costly, or slower to reproduce 
itself, it can never make the progress that swine can. 
Every effort should be made to grade up all kinds of 
stock as fast as possible. As the use of good males of 
most all kinds of stock is now obtainable at a reasona- 
ble price in most all parts of this country, the people 
should not be slow to patronize them. By this means 
it takes but a few years to make quite an improvement 
in any kind of stock, and the idea that the market will 
become overstocked with any kind of good stock is all 
wrong. Tho demand will always exceed the supply. 

It does not pay to breed or to feed poor hogs. The 
hog is a voracious animal, and unless his voracity can 
be turned to profitable account it is better to have 
nothing to do with him. The great majority of farm- 
ers who breed pigs do so without definite aim toward 
producing a profitable animal. Some of them have 
got a nondescript sort of stock of no particular breed, 
and remarkable only for combining as many of the 
bad qualities and as few of the good points as it is 
possible a hog can have. Having come to them as it 
were as a common legacy, they look upon it as being a 
bounden duty to perpetuate the race. Yet bad as these 
hogs are, they have two redeeming points. In the 



108 SELECTION OP SUBJECTS. 

first place, they are hardy, and have good constitutions; 
and in the second place they are capable of being rap- 
idly improved at small cost, by crossing them with the 
modern improved breeds of pure-blooded sorts. Use 
what breed you will to begin the improvement, if it is 
only persevered in by those who understand the busi- 
ness, it must result profitably. A good and well bred 
boar costs money. We will say twenty-five to fifty 
dollars for a really first-class young one, three to six 
months old. But one is enough for a whole neighbor- 
hood, and if several will club together to purchase and 
keep one among them, or agree to pay a moderate sum 
for each sow they may get served, the cost will be 
small to each. 

As to what breed is best to originate the improve- 
ment from, much will depend upon circumstances. If 
the medium-sized hogs are desired, use the Berkshire, 
Yorkshire, Suffolk, or Essex; those who want larger 
hogs, giving from three to six hundred pounds when 
fattened, will find nothing better than the Poland- 
China, or any of our other improved large breeds. 
When they have made a choice of any one breed, it 
should not be changed unless they are thoroughly con- 
vinced that they have made a mistake; but everything 
should be done to improve it, always selecting and re- 
taining the best sows for breeders, and every time 
boars are changed, try to get a better one. 

FIXING THE CHAKACTERISTICS OF A BREED OF HOGS. 

The time required in which to establish a breed, 
and the difficulty of the undertaking, depends largely 
on two things — the number of the characteristics de- 
sired to be fixed, and the rapidity with which the class 
of animals selected reproduce themselves. It is obvi- 
ously a very much less difficult task to secure the re- 
production of one characteristic than it is to secure 
half a dozen. It would be much easier to produce a 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 109 

breed of hogs which should be uniform in color, with- 
out regard to size and time of coming to maturity than 
it would to secure uniformity in all these points. The 
rapidity of breeding is an equally important element. 
Compare the horse and hog in this regard. A long 
lifetime would not enable one to do more with the 
horse than could be done in ten years with the hog; in 
each case the breeder being confined to his own ani- 
mals. Before the effects of a second cross could be 
seen in the case of the horse, the hog breeder, start- 
ing with a single pair, could have a herd of hundreds, 
with a good degree of uniformity. Producing young 
once or twice a year, and several at each birth, the 
hog, of all our domestic animals, gives much the best 
opportunity for selection. Swine reproduce at so early 
an age, so many at a birth and so often, that in no 
other field can the student of the science of breeding 
and the art of selection and crossing so readily note re- 
sults and acquire information by actual experience. 
Indeed, with a single sow and her descendants, for a 
period of five years, an observant, intelligent man may 
learn more concerning the laws of reproduction and 
the effects of in-breeding and crossing than with any 
other variety of farm stock in a lifetime. 

Estimating the produce of a single sow at a very 
moderate rate — one litter a year from the time she is 
one year old, and that from each of these litters there 
should be saved three sow pigs, which in time should 
be equally productive — we shall have, by the time the 
first sow is five years old, a herd of 1,024 females. These 
will have been produced at 341 different litters, and the 
most remote will be five generations from the first dam. 
But when we consider that it is quite within the limits 
of possibility that each sow will produce two litters a 
year instead of one, the number of descendants and the 
opportunity for observation are materially increased, 



110 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

as this would give us nine litters from the old sow 
alone, instead of five, as in the preceding calculation, 
and the total number of female descendents possible in 
five years, where two litters a year are produced, count- 
ing only three females to the litter, would be 2,683. 

If, as is claimed by many, five generations serve to 
fix any given type with reasonable certainty in any of 
our domestic animals, it is quite within the range of 
possibilities for each farmer to create a breed of hogs 
for himself, in the course of five years. This case of 
fixing its characteristics, which the hog possesses in so 
marked a degree, enables any farmer to secure a stock 
which possesses in a very large degree the qualities he 
desires. If he will use well-bred boars of the breed he 
prefers for four or five years, selecting the sows with 
care, his entire stock will very closely resemble the 
purely bred animals of this breed. If he wishes, he 
may produce a new breed, or modify an old one, but 
in the large majority of cases this will not be a wise 
attempt, as the improved breeds now equal anything 
he would probably produce. 

AN ILLUSTRATION OF HOW TO FORM A BREED. 

Following this I will give an illustration obtained 
from a farmer, who was a very successful breeder of 
swine, showing how he improved and modified his 
common breed of hogs and successfully formed a 
much more profitable one. This illustration may be 
of benefit to a great many who are contemplating 
improving their swine by giving them ideas as to how 
the work is done. By following these rules any 
breeder can improve in a few years the most mongrel 
breed of hogs we have and transform them into a 
fine and profitable breed by using good judgment and 
some patience. In talking with this farmer he gave 
his experience as follows: Some thirty years ago I 
had what we called the Chester-White breed of hogs. 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. Ill 

I took great care in breeding them and was also a 
generous feeder; by this means I had formed what 
was considered the best hogs in my part of the 
country. But they were too large and slow to mature 
to suit me, as I have always stuck to one system of 
breeding and feeding. I have always bred my sows so 
they would have pigs from the middle of February to 
the middle of March; then I would breed such sows as 
I wished to keep over again, and get another set of pigs 
soon after harvest. This first set of pigs I never let 
go hungry. I would feed them all the corn they 
wanted on good clover pasture, and by July, or some 
later, I had them ready to go to market, and generally 
struck a good one. The other pigs I aimed to carry 
until the following June, or later, as the market suited 
me. As to whether I have been successful or not, all 
I have to say on that subject is, I commenced with 
limited means and am now worth over sixty thousand 
dollars. But as to the hogs, as I said before, mine 
were too large and too slow to mature to suit me. So 
I began to look around for some way to get a hog that 
would put on more fat at a younger age. I had heard 
so much about the Berkshire hogs that I bought a 
good pair of them and tried them a year or so, but I 
was soon convinced they did not suit me, for they 
would not keep still long enough to eat, and then, 
when turned out in the woods to range, though 
they would live where any other hog would 
starve, they would get wilder than deer. Ex- 
perience in stoock breeding generally brings about 
some good results. So here is where I struck it; I 
picked out some of my best, large white sows and 
bred them to the Berkshire boar. The pigs from these 
sows were very uneven in size, but out-fed the pure 
Berkshire pigs, or my old stock of hogs, so that I was 
convinced! had made one step toward improving my 



112 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

hogs. I saved some sows from these half-bred pigs 
that were nearest my idea of a hog, and also retained 
one of the best boar pigs. These sow pigs I bred to 
one of my best Chester-White boars, saved the best 
sow pigs from that cross, and bred them back to the 
boar pig I had saved. That cross proved to be just 
the hog I wanted. This breeding I have kept up for 
over twenty years, guarding against in-breeding too 
close; such as son to mother, father to daughter, or 
brothers to sisters. My hogs are always uniform in 
size and color, being white, with occasionally a black 
spot on the skin, and are of good size and quick to 
mature. Then the old gentleman tapped me on the 
shoulder and said: But let me tell you, my friend, that 
it took patience and care to get them just right, and it 
takes the same care to keep them that way. Any one 
starting in expecting to form a breed of hogs or any 
other stock, in a cross or two, had just as well not 
start, for it takes time patience and care. In talking 
with this gentleman I was soon convinced that he was 
very partial to the white hog, but could give no par- 
ticular reason, except that they stood upon their feet 
better than the Poland-China, and stood traveling 
better than any other breed he had ever tried or seen, 
except the Berkshire, and they were too small and 
wild. 

IN-AND-IN BKEEDING. 

The aforesaid illustration only shows how all our 
improved breeds of stock are formed by in-and-in 
breeding, and may serve as an example for those who 
had never made it a study; for it is only by in-and-in 
breeding, guarding against too close a cross, or too vio- 
lent an out cross, always retaining those animals of 
both sexes for breeders that show the characteristics 
most desired, that any established breed can be 
formed. Where no violent out cross is made, and the 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 113 

families are kept together, and the progeny is not 
uniform in its characteristics, just that long the breed 
is not thoroughly established. 

MERIT, PEDIGREE AND COLOR. 

The time was when the pedigree of an animal alone 
was sufficient to stamp it as first-class and of superior 
excellence. Although pedigrees are still adhered to, 
breeders have discovered the fact that they have been 
entirely too exclusive in this respect, and that many 
animals possessing superior merit have been over- 
looked, because of supposed ignorable ancestry. As if 
determined to push their own claims, the discarded 
colts when given the privilege of the turf, forged their 
way to the front, the neglected heifers filled the pails 
to overflowing, and the chance pigs attained weight 
not believed to be within their reach. Acting upon 
the suggestion that an improvement in stock might be 
effected by breeding only from animals of merit, 
though of good blood, I will say from my own experi- 
ence and from that of others who have come under my 
observation, never discard a good breeding animal, one 
that has proven itself such (unless compelled to) for 
one of a more fashionable pedigree, about which noth- 
ing is known. When a change has to be made, try 
and find another good one that has proven itself equal 
to, or superior to the one you had, even if it is some- 
what aged, as it very often will pay much better than 
to risk a young one, unless it is an exceptionally good 
one, and from good ancestors of which something is 
known. 

The greatest evil of some of the fine stock breeders 
for the past years is, that they have adhered strictly to 
pedigree and color, and neglected quality or merit. 
This is especially the case with short-horn cattle, 
Berkshire and Poland-China hogs. I will venture the 
remark that they are not as good to-day as they were a 



114 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

few years ago. The color craze, red with short-horn 
cattle, and black with Poland-China hogs, and the 
fashionable pedigree of this stock, as well as with the 
Berkshire hog, has been detrimental to the breeds. 
This is being acknowledged all over the country, and 
is the cause of farmers seeking other breeds. This 
color craze, gray or fawn color, was originated by the 
Jersey breeders, when the Jersey boom was first 
started, but some timely suggestions from some of the 
breeders that merit was more essential than color, soon 
put a stop to that, and the butter test took its place. 
Now, some critic will say right here that the public 
demands the pedigree and color. While the pedigree 
is all right, providing it is backed up with merit, I 
will again venture to remark that the public will not 
know anything about the color if the breeders do not 
start it. Any of the purely bred stock is true enough 
to its color, if nature is left to place it as she sees fit, 
but it is the quality and merit that want looking after. 
Nothing will prove this more than the horse. Do 
people demand a gray, black, or any other color, and 
a ertain pedigree in preference to quality, especially 
when left to judge for themselves? No, indeed; 
whereas, they may admire a horse of dark color, yet 
the horse they will choose is the horse with the largest 
and best form, or that can pull the largest load, or go 
a mile the quickest. And the same with cattle or 
hogs; it is the quality that is wanted, and if the 
general stock grower can not find it in one breed, he 
will seek it in another. 

ROOTS, VEGETABLES, ETC., FOR SWINE. 

Every farmer or feeder should raise tuberous 
plants for their hogs. The artichoke possesses rare 
properties as an appetizer and an aid to digestion. It 
will remove constipation and fever caused by corn- 
feeding in the winter, and will keep hogs so healty and 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 115 

vigorous that they will resist disease. The Brazillian 
and the white French artichoke are the best varities 
known, and a small patch of them would prove very 
profitable, as they are an advantage to the hogs and 
will save many bushels of corn. The value of the 
artichoke is so little known that I desire to call the 
farmers' attention to them. They should be planted 
on good, dry land, and the ground should be plowed 
deeply and harrowed, then marked both ways with a 
tree-runner, potato-marker, or in some other manner. 
The rows should be three feet apart each way. Cut 
the tubers into small pieces, about two eyes to each, 
then plant the way you mark first, and cover with a 
cultivator. As soon as weeds start, harrow well, and, 
when large enough, cultivate as you would corn. In 
this way from six to eight hundred bushels to the 
acre can be raised. After frost has killed the tops, 
put a fence around a part of the lot, and give the hogs 
full privilege to " root, hog, or die," and you will be sur- 
prised to see how they use the instrument God has 
given them to unearth the kind of food their nature 
requires. Forty years ago, when hogs ran out in the 
wood and prairies, hog cholera was unknown. Thus 
be wise, and study the wants of this animal, so valua- 
ble to the farmer of the West, and supply these wants. 
This can be done by every farmer, by planting a patch 
of artichokes in one of his feed lots not used in sum- 
mer, or near by his lots, and let his hogs have access 
to them in all the open weather from October to 
May. For winter use some should be dug and 
put in the cellar, and if cooked and mixed with meal 
or bran, they make excellent swill. For this the white 
French is better, as it is sweeter, has a larger tuber, 
grows nearer the surface, and is more easily dug. 
They are also excellent for milch cows in winter. I 
would not have it understood that artichokes take the 



116 SELECTION OP SUBJECTS. 

place of corn to any great extent, but they loosen the 
bowels and keep the hogs in such a condition that a 
bushel of corn will put on more flesh than when they 
are fed on corn alone. 

Note. — I suppose the seed of the artichoke can be 
had of any good seed firm. 

Sugar beets are also valuable for stock, and are 
easily raised, and can be put away for winter use, 
when they are the most needed. 

On rich soil one thousand bushels can be easily 
raised to the acre. It wants three pounds of seed to 
the acre, put in with a drill, rows eighteen inches 
apart. If on new ground, it requires but little tending 
to keep the weeds down. 

Corn and sugar beets will make shoats fatten 
faster than any other feed, for we know that corn con- 
tains a larger amount of fattening element than other 
grain, and sugar beets have the same properties over 
other roots, and the two combined form a great fatten- 
ing food; in fact, so much so, that if fed largely, they 
will produce enough fat to be injurious to the hog, 
especially where intended for breeding purposes. 

GROWING PUMPKINS WITH CORN. 

Pumpkins are valuable for stock in autumn and 
early winter, or as long as they can be conveniently 
kept, though the amount of nutriment in proportion to 
bulk to be taken care of, and their liability to decay, 
have led most farmers to discard them, and adopt 
roots and squashes for succulent food. As a rule, every 
crop needs all the ground it occupies, and all the air 
and sunlight available. Corn is a " sun plant," and to 
shade the soil and lower stalks with the dense foilage 
of pumpkin vines, must be more or less injurious, 
even if the latte'r do not rob the former of any needed 
nutriment. On very vertile, new soils, with short- 
stalked varities of corn, in localities where frost is not 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 117 

to be feared, it may be allowable to plant pumpkin 
seed in every third or fourth hill, in each second or 
third row. With favorable weather, the corn will pro- 
duce about the usual yield, and after the early gather- 
ing of the corn, the growing pumpkins thus exposed 
to full light, will ripen up those pretty well developed. 
As a rule, let the pumpkins have the whole ground; 
but still better are the harder fleshed squashes, which 
will probably supply more nutriment than field pump- 
kins, whether for man or beast. 

The Hubbard squash will fatten more hogs than 
any corn which could be raised on the same ground, 
and they will keep through the winter. Plant twenty 
feet apart each way, which is thick enough, and but 
little cultivation is required. The crop is easily gath- 
ered, no digging or husking being required. The 
plants are rampant growers, and are out of the way of 
the bugs within a week, early in the season. From 
six to eight tons have been obtained from an acre, esti- 
mated by one ton to the wagon load. 

It seems that of late years the raising of pumpkins 
and squashes has been greatly neglected by the farm- 
ers, and it is now only occasionally that we see a corn 
field spotted over with golden pumpkins, as in former 
days. Why is it? Has mother earth so depreciated 
in quality that she will not raise them any more? Or 
have our improved corn plows made it impossile to 
raise them? If these are not the reasons, it must be 
because the farmer thinks them not worth raising and 
gathering. I think a great many farmers underrate 
their value as food for hogs, and fail to appreciate them 
as they should. Anything a hog will eat with as much 
relish as they will pumpkins and squashes, is certainly 
good for them, and they should occasionally have a 
mess. It is very seldom that corn-fed hogs will not 
leave corn if pumkins are thrown to them, and devour 



118 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

them greedily. This goes to show that they want a 
change of food, and relish vegetables. When mankind 
is deprived of vegetables for a long time, they crave 
and want them, and often sicken and die for the need 
of them. The hog in this is "like his two-legged 
brother." Many a lot of hogs has died which a wagon 
load of pumpkins would have saved if given in time. 

RAISING RYE. 

Rye is the earliest grass crop that can be grown. 
If seeded down in the fall it not only gets a good start 
if the season is favorable, therefore affording a slight 
opportunity for grazing in the fall to those who are not 
favored with pastures, but it comes out luxuriantly in 
the early spring, and 'affords green material when other 
grasses are dormant. It grows on the sandy soils as 
well as on those that are heavy, but thrives best on a 
fertile, light loam. Rye is an excellent feed for young 
pigs early in the spring, and every farmer who has no 
early pasture for them should sow a patch for that pur- 
pose. After it becomes too hard for use, it can be 
plowed under, as it makes a good fertilizer for most 
any other crop. Healthy swine may be raised very 
cheaply if only the proper attention is given to the 
matter of their food and pasture. Every swine breeder 
should have a piece of clover pasture ; yet green rye, oats, 
millet, Hungarian grass and green peas all make excel- 
lent and cheap hog feed. Where a pasture cannot be had , 
no other crop will make better feed, nor more of it, than 
green, sweet corn fodder, or a crop of oats and peas 
mixed. Have these crops planted in a lot next to the 
hog-lot, and cut and feed to the hogs as needed, but 
not until they have come nearly to maturity. By 
planting a second time on the ground which was first 
relieved of its crop, a constant supply of these proven- 
ders can be maintained from the first of July until 
frost comes. 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 119 

PASTURE FOR HOGS. 

The subject of good pastures for hogs in summer is 
becoming one of special interest to farmers. So, also, 
the providing of a supply of roots for them during the 
winter is beginning to receive deserved attention from 
the more progressive and successful farmers. The 
continued and excessive use of corn has long been 
deemed wrong, both in theory and in practice, al- 
though comparatively few feeders ever seemed to have 
considered how it might be avoided. The light, how- 
ever, is breaking, and a radical change in the manage- 
ment of hogs, as regards their feeding, seems fast go- 
ing on. This change, no doubt, will result in a very 
marked decrease of disease among swine. Among the 
grasses most suitable for hog pasture may be men- 
tioned timothy, red clover, blue grass, and orchard 
grass. In timber pasture, where red clover would not 
do as well, on account of the shade, white clover will 
be found valuable. The best pasture is one containing 
several kinds; but it is no easy matter to keep a va- 
riety of grasses on the same ground. The more hardy 
will sooner or later crowd the others out. 

The best pasture is blue grass, as it keeps green 
most all the year round, and affords grass both early 
and late. Red clover alone is about the poorest pasture 
there is for hogs. Early in the season it is of too lux- 
uriant a growth, and then it soon becomes hard and 
woody, and has a tendency to cause constipation. 
When the first crop is taken off, and the second crop 
comes up, especially where it is of a luxuriant growth 
and the weather warm and wet, and hogs are turned 
in on it, it has the same tendency to cause sickness 
that an over-feed of new corn has. To guard against 
this trouble it is best when sowing clover for pasture 
for hogs, to always mix timithy, or some other grass 
seed with it. 



120 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

RINGING HOGS. 

My experience in ringing hogs leads me to think it 
an advisable measure, when rightly done and at the 
right time. The assertion sometimes made that hogs, 
if habitually allowed to run at large, will not injure 
meadows or pastures by rooting when turned upon 
them, cannot be relied on. They may for a while 
behave themselves very well. I have known them to 
roam a pasture for weeks and scarcely turn a sod; 
when, soon after from some unaccountable reason, 
they would get to rooting, and in a short time do more 
damage than many times the cost of ringing them. 
So I have at last concluded that the safest way is to 
use the rings whenever hogs are allowed to range 
where their rooting would be an injury. 

I do not advocate the continuous use of rings the 
year round, nor their use on swine of all ages and 
sizes. In the spring of the year they are generally 
the most needed. If hogs that are treated to rings in 
the spring are still on hand in the fall, it is usually 
best to remove them, particularly if the hogs are 
turned on mast, or allowed to follow cattle in feed lots 
or stalk fields. 

It sometimes happens that a valuable brood sow 
acquires such bad habits as lifting gates or breaking 
fences. A couple of rings in the nose of such an 
animal will put her on good behavior more effectually 
than any thing I ever tried. Also with a sow that is 
vicious and cross to other hogs; a good ring in her 
nose will prove to be a wonderful tamer. A stock 
boar, if inclined to be unruly, should be treated the 
same way. 

If a sow is cross and abusive to her pigs, take a 
piece of small wire, a size larger than broom wire, and 
four inches long. By the use of an awl, insert this 
wire in the center of the rim of the nose, and then 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 121 

twist it together; this forms a long probe and will 
strike the pig before her nose will, which will cause 
the pig to get out of her way and save itself from a 
blow. It will also cause the sow to behave herself 
better than a ring will. I have nothing to say as to 
which are the best patent rings; they are all good 
enough, some, perhaps, being more easily applied, or 
adjusted, to all purposes, and lasting longer than 
others. I have always used the round or triangular 
rings. I insert the rings through the partition of the 
nose, just as a ring is put in a bull's nose, instead of 
through the rim of the nose. Never use more than 
one ring in a hog's nose, if it can possibly be avoided, 
and insert that in the center of the nose, or, as spoken 
of before. When it is necessary to put in two rings, 
which is sometimes the case with sows or large hogs, 
insert them close together, less than an inch apart, 
one on each side of the center of the nose. By this 
means one avoids hitting the cords that are on each 
side of the nose, and which, if the rings are put 
through, cause the nose to become very sore and 
painful. The rings should not be set too deep, and see 
that they close up smoothly where they come together, 
as the injury of hogs by ringing is very often due to 
its being improperly done, and by the use of such 
inhuman rings as horse shoe nails or too heavy wire. 
Here is another plan to keep hogs from rooting, which 
I have practiced some, and have seen others adopt 
with good results: Cut the cords on each side of the 
nose; they can be observed by pressing the nose down. 
Use a small, sharp-pointed knife; insert under the 
cord and cut up. This will take all the power out of 
the nose, and it will not get sore. 

shook's handy stock catcher and holder. 
For holding large hogs to ring them, or any other 
purpose, there is no better or simpler plan than 



122 SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 

by the use of one of Shook's Stock Machines. This 
machine is so valuable, cheap and simple to use for 
handling all kinds of stock, that every farmer can 
afford to have one, and it is the farmer's choice for the 
purpose for which it is intended, for the following 
reasons: First. It is the only invention of the kind 
that can be converted into several different forms for 
the handling of different kinds of stock. 
It can be changed into a bridle, halter, 
twitch, slip-noose, or lasso for the purpose 
of handling all kinds of stock, large or 
small, with perfect security, and without 
injury. It is also one of the best bull 
staffs in use. 

Second. It is longer and lighter than 
any other instrument of the kind, being 
six feet long and weighing less than four 
pounds, which is quite an advantage on 
account of the ease and security with 
which it can be handled. Yet it is cheaper 
than any other; and is made of the best 
material, so that it will last for years with- 
out repair. In case it is broken, any one 
can repair it at a trifling cost, owing to its 
simple construction. 

No farmer should be without this ma- 
chine, as it is a great labor-saving inven- 
tion, often doing the work, in the hands of 
a boy or man, that would otherwise require 
the efforts of two or three strong men. 
And it often saves personal injury, or the 
soiling of clothes, which often occurs in 
the handling of hogs or other stock by 
main force. It can be hnd of hardware 
dealers. Price, $2.00 



SELECTION OF SUBJECTS. 123 

DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THIS MACHINE. 

Take hold of the staff back well at the small end 
with the left hand, and hold the rope and staff back of 
the ring with the right hand. In order to catch and 
hold a hog, drop the lasso over its nose, or else in the 
mouth and around the upper jaw; then pull quick and 
hard upon the rope, and it will close up tight around 
the nose or jaw, and the ring in the center of the staff 
will hold the rope secure. A hog thus secured can 
easily be held while a ring is put in its nose, or its 
tusks taken out, or for any other purpose. The lasso 
can be made any size desired for catching calves, sheep 
or any other stock, and used with perfect safety. In 
order to form a rope halter or bridle, for the purpose 
of handling a bad horse, run the lasso out long enough 
to go over the head of the animal, then reach through 
the lasso with the left hand, and catch the rope back 
of the eye of the machine, and pull it through far 
enough to go over the nose or through the mouth of 
the animal. To fit it up snug, pull on the end of the 
rope to take up all slack, and the ring will hold it 
secure. With this machine thus fit to a horse, it is no 
trouble to handle it; no matter how vicious it is. The 
bull staff is formed by using the hook, or snap at the 
small end of the staff. Around the shank of this 
hook is a spiral spring which holds a clasp in place; 
press the spring back, and the clasp will turn to one 
side and remain there. Now hook the snap in the 
ring in the bull's nose, then press on the clasp, and it 
turns in place, and forms a solid hook or snap, per- 
fectly secure, and strong enough to hold any bull. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 



Preparing to Butcher -Rack to Hang Hogs On — A Regular 
System — How a Pig Suddenly became Pork — Killing and Clean- 
ing Hogs — Preparing the Lard, Sausage, and Pudding— Prepar- 
ing and Curing the Meats. 




BUTCHERING TIME. 

HEN the time arrives to butcher, before com- 
mencing, everything pertaining to that day's 
work should be gotten into good order. Every 
farmer knows butchering takes all day, and sometimes 
part of the night, as it comes in the part of the year 
when the days are short and the weather liable to be 
cold and bad. Therefore, one should have everything 
in good order, and have as little other outside work 
to do as possible. If there is much stock to feed, 
the food should be so prepared that it can be given to 
the stock quickly that day. A good supply of dry 
wood should be hauled up, prepared and put in the 
dry, so in case of snow or rain, it will not get wet. 
Then look after the butchering tools, so that they are 
in good order. The knives, cleaver, axes, and sausage 
machine should be well sharpened. 

If the meat tubs and lard firkins need cleaning and 
hooping, see to it in time. Get the kettles, scalding 
tub, hog hook, and gambrels together, so there will be 
no need to hunt them when they are wanted. The 
hogs should be inclosed in a small lot or pen, as near 
as possible to where they are to be killed, for it saves. 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 



125 



hauling them so far. If there is no place already fixed 
to hang the hogs, one had better be prepared before- 
hand, rather than to wait until the hogs are ready to 
be hung up, and then fix a temporary one that is 
liable to fall down and cause trouble. I will here give 
a description and cut showing how to make the best 
hog hanging rack I have ever seen for farm use. It is 
not only strong and safe if well put up, but is the 
easiest to hang hogs on. Three men can hang on this 
rack a hog that will weigh six or eight hundred pounds. 
The cut itself will almost describe the rack. 




It is made by setting four posts 4x6, 9 feet long, in 
the ground, 2| feet apart one way, and 12 feet the 
other, outside measure. When finished it ought to be 
7 feet high. For the stretchers from one post to the 
other on which to hang the hogs, use 2x8 joists. On 
the inside of the posts at the top, cut a notch large 
enough for the stretchers to rest on. Then spike or 
bolt them securely to the posts. The back end of the 
rack can be fastened together by a good inch board 
being nailed to the posts. The front end has two 
stretchers, 2x6, and 10 feet long, running from the 
ground to the top of the rack, and fastened to the top 
stretchers on the inside, to be used to slide the hogs up 
on. The gambrel sticks to be employed on this rack 
must be 2ij> feet long, in order to reach from one 
stretcher to the other, as the hogs hang between them. 
Where a rack of this kind is desired, from 16 to 24 



126 BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 

feet long, there must be two center posts to strengthen 
the stretchers. The advantages of this rack over any 
others are: First, if the platform that the hogs are 
scraped on is put against the ground stretchers, it re- 
quires but little labor to slide the hog off of it, upon 
the rack; second, one half of a hog can be taken down 
at a time when cutting them up, or they can be cut in 
halves, in order to let them cool quickly. For a place 
to clean the hog on, a sled with some good strong 
boards on it, or a wagon box turned upside down will 
answer the purpose. For a scalding tub, a large barrel 
is better than a hogshead, as it does not require so 
much water, and does not get cold so quick. 

A REGULAR SYSTEM. 

At all packing establishments, hogs are cleaned and 
cut up under a regular system. But it is only oc- 
casionally that a farmer has any regular system of 
doing this work, and it is seldom that two persons do 
it alike. There are some who will kill the same num- 
ber of hogs, and work them up in about half the time, 
and do the work just as well as others. Why is this? 
Because one works under a regular system, and the 
other has no system at all. Butchering hogs is hard 
work at best, but if properly managed, a large amount 
of work and time can be saved, and the work is just 
as well or better done. 

HOW A PIG SUDDENLY BECAME PORK. 

The following graphic description as given by Mr. 
Phil. Robinson in a new book just published, shows 
how suddenly a pig became pork in a slaughtering 
establishment in Chicago. I should be sorry to vouch 
for the precise accuracy of the statement, although I 
know they do the work very quickly: 

A lively piebald porker was one of a number 
grunting and quarreling in a pen, and I was asked to 
keep my eye on him. What happened to that porker 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 127 

was this: He was suddenly seized by a hind leg and 
jerked up to a small crane. This swung him to the 
fatal door through which no pig ever returns. On the 
other side stood a man. The two-handed engine at 
the door stands ready to smite once, and smite no 
more, and the dead pig shot across a trough and 
through another doorway, and then there was a splash. 
He had fallen into a vat of boiling water. Some un- 
seen machinery passed him along swiftly to the other 
end of the terrific bath, and there a water-wheel picked 
him up and flung him on to a sloping counter. Here 
another machine seized him, and with one revolution 
scraped him as bald as a nut. And down the counter 
he went, losing his head as he slid past a man with a 
cleaver, and then, presto! he was up again by the 
heels. In one dreadful handful a man emptied him, 
and while another squirted him with fresh water, the 
pig, registering his own weight as he passed the teller's 
box, shot down the steel bar from which he hung, and 
whisked around the corner into the ice-house. One 
long cut with a knife made two sides of pork out of 
that piebald pig. Two strokes of the cleaver brought 
away his back bone. And there in thirty-five seconds 
from his last grunt — dirty, hot-headed, noisy — the 
pig was hanging up in two pieces, clean, tranquil, iced! 
The very rapidity of the whole process robbed it of its 
horrors. Here one minute was an opinionative piebald 
pig, making a prodigious fuss about having his hind 
leg taken hold of, and lo! before he had made up his 
mind to squeal or only squeak, he was hanging up in 
an ice-house, split in two. He had resented the first 
trifling liberty that was taken with him, and in thirty- 
five seconds he was ready for the cook. 

KILLING AND CLEANING THE HOGS. 

Ordinarily, when butchering day arrives, the fatted 
swine are driven from their pen into the yard. Here 



128 BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 

one is caught at the first attempt (possibly), and after 
much tussling is turned upon his back and killed. 
After this the herd becomes wild; much chasing, 
tumbling, and tugging (I trust no swearing) is in- 
dulged in, and finally, after human strength has been 
expended that might have gone far towards sawing a 
cord of wood, the doomed animal, half dead with 
fright, with heated blood coursing in his veins, has his 
throat torn open with a bungling implement, and 
thrust here and there, often in vain search for the 
vital current. My dear sir, I plead with you, in the 
name of humanity, in the spirit of civilization, to 
avoid this torture of helpless, unoffending creatures 
by shooting them. A small ball from a rifle or 
revolver will cause instantaneous insensibility, after 
which the bleeding may be accomplished without 
lessening your self-respect. The shooting will cause 
no commotion in the herd — it does not realize that 
any killing has been done. When several hogs are to 
be killed, after the water is hot and everything ready 
to commence, two should be killed at once, as two can 
be scalded with the same water as one, and this saves 
heating water so often. There are some farmers who 
are experts in bleeding a hog, while others make a 
very bungled job of it and damage the shoulder. 
This is a simple operation. When once the hog is 
down, turn it on its back, use a short, sharp-pointed 
knife, and place the point in the center of the throat 
with the edge back. One thrust down and back will 
reach the vital part; and in drawing the knife out cut 
the incision some three inches long. This will cause 
the hog to bleed freely. If much blood, mud or snow 
adheres to the hog, it should be cleaned off before 
being put into the scalding tub, as it will chill the 
water and cause a bad scald. In order to have the 
water the right temperature to get a good scald, fill the 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 129 

barrel one-third full of boiling water, then add to this 
one or two gallons of cold water. This will be hot 
enough if the barrel is not too cold, but when it is, it 
may not require any cold water. If a half gallon of 
wood ashes or a half pint of lye is put in the water, it 
will cause the hair to slip better. When the water is 
too hot it x will set the hair so it will not come off. In 
scalding the hog, always scald the hind part first. 
Keep moving it, turning it over and then draw it out 
to air and examine to see if it is scalded enough. 
This is the case when the hair slips off easily. Then 
turn the hog around, and scald the fore part. (This 
is the hardest to scald, and care should be taken not 
to set the hair.) Now, while the second hog is being 
scalded, the first one should be cleaned, for while it is 
hot it can be cleaned much quicker than when it gets 
cold. Clean the fore part first, commencing with the 
feet and head and then work back. Here is where the 
lively work begins, and where a corn knife or hoe can 
be used with good effect to help remove the hair. 
When the first hog is cleaned hang it up, and then 
wash and scrape it, and soon follow with the other 
one. When the intestines are removed, wash the blood 
out and rinse with cold water. In order to let the 
hogs cool quickly, split them down on each side of 
the back bone, leaving them together at both ends. 
Then by the use of a stick spread them apart in front. 
Now, the first two hogs are taken care of, and the 
others follow suit in pairs. 

HOW TO CLEAN THE INTESTINES. 

As soon as the intestines are removed, it is best to 
clean them at once, while warm. This is done by first 
separating the paunch from the other parts, and then 
remove the lard. Then divide the large intestines 
from the small ones; separate the large ones and re- 
move the lard by the use of a knife. The lard can be 



130 BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 

removed from the small ones by taking it in one hand 
and the intestine in the other and pulling them apart. 
To prepare the small intestines for sausage casings 
empty them and keep them in hot water while clean- 
ing them, which is done by scraping with a case knife 
upon a smooth board. If the water gets too cool, pour 
off a part, and put in some more hot. There is no 
need of turning the small intestines when cleaning 
them in this way. For casings for puddings, take 
those parts of the large intestines that are smooth and 
straight, turn them inside out, and clean them the 
same as the others. 

CUTTING UP THE HOGS. 

When the hogs are all killed, commence to cut 
them up by taking off the head and cutting it up for 
such purpose as is desired. When the heads have not 
been well cleaned, put them in scalding water, and 
clean them. Cut the head in two on a line with the 
mouth, take out the tongue and clean it, by putting it 
in boiling water, which will cause the rough skin to 
peel off. The under part of the head, or jowl, if not in- 
tended to be smoked, can be made into lard, sausage, 
and pudding, by cutting off the jaws for pudding, the 
other part for sausage, and the rest for lard. The 
upper part of the head, except the brains, is not of 
much use, except for pudding. Cut put the ears and 
eyes, then split the head in halves, take out the brains, 
and clean the balance by cutting out the nose-bones. 
Where the nose is not wanted, cut it off half way back 
to the eyes. The hearts and tongues, if not wanted for 
use, can go in the puddings, and one-half of a liver to 
every three hogs. If the lard is not to be peeled and the 
rinds put in the puddings, the meat, now prepared, can 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 



131 



be put over to cook and be out of the way. Enough 
water should be put on the meat to cover it. Now 
cut up the balance of the hog as follows: 




Take out the back-bone, remove the lard, and break 
the back-bone at every other joint. Cut off the legs 
above the hocks and knees. Take out the leaf lard, 
ribs and tender-loins, remove the piece in front of the 
shoulders for sausage, then the ham and shoulders, 
cutting the ham round and the shoulder square. Cut 
off a good strip of the belly and back for lard. Square 
up the remainder and cut it into pieces of such sizes as 
are wanted. Then put the meat away to thorougly 
cool out before being cured. To clean the feet, put 
them in boiling hot water until the toes can be re- 
moved easily. Scrape and wash them thoroughly and 
they are ready for use. 

PREPARING THE LARD AND SAUSAGE. 

While some are employed in cutting up the hogs, 
others may be preparing the lard to render and the 
sausage meat for use. With a reasonable amount of 
help and proper management, this work can all be go- 
ing on at the same time. To prepare the lard for 
rendering, cut it into squares of an inch or more in 
size, and as soon as enough is ready to fill a kettle, it 
can be put on to cook. A half gallon of water should 
be put in the kettle to keep the lard from burning be- 



132 BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 

fore it commences to cook. No more lard should be 
added to this while cooking, but as soon as done, when 
the cracklings turn a light brown, take it off, run it 
through the lard press, and place it in another kettle 
to cool a little before it is placed in the cans or firkins. 
Another kettle-full, or even two at the same time, can 
now be treated in the same way. If the sausage meat 
is to be ground, it ought to be cut into squares, as by 
this means it does not become so stringy. Have the 
meat warm, but use as little water as possible while 
grinding it, as it keeps better if ground dry. 

PREPARING OR CURING MEATS. 

To season the sausage so as to be palatable to all, is 
very hard to do. But nearly everybody will find one 
of the following recipes to suit: To forty pounds of 
ground meat, use one heaping pint of salt, one-fourth 
pint of pepper, five tablespoonfuls of coriander, and 
three tablespoonfuls of sweet-marjoram. Mix thor- 
oughly, prepare for the table, and it is good enough for 
a king. 

Another: For the same amount of meat, use the 
same amount of salt and pepper, and one-half pint 
of sage. To this can be added two tablespoonfuls of 
Summer Savory, if liked. When the sausage is not 
put in casings, it can be made into cakes and cooked 
ready for use, then packed in jars, always pouring 
over each layer the fryings until the jar is filled. 
Then heat and pour over them enough lard to cover 
them. In this way they can be kept until quite warm 
weather. When they are put in casings, they can be 
prepared in the same way, or hung up and let dry and 
then smoked a little, which will improve them, but too 
much smoke makes them bitter. Puddings should be 
seasoned while grinding the meat, to ten pounds add 
three good sized onions; then mix with this four table- 
spoonfuls of salt and two tablespoonfuls of pepper; 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 133 

stuff them, and then put them in the same water or 
juice that the meat was cooked in. Bring to a boil, 
take out and dip in cold water. Put them in a vessel 
to cool, and when they are cool, they are ready for use. 

The back bones and spare ribs can be salted lightly, 
packed in a jar and put where they will keep cool, or 
else a weak brine put over them. Side meat 
should be cut in strips of three or four to the side, 
packed edgewise, with the skin side out in a large stone 
jar and pickled pork made of it. Brine for pickled 
pork, should be as strong as possible; it ought to be 
strong enough to bear up a good sized potato. Make 
it by stirring into warm water as much salt as it will 
dissolve, and when cool, pour it on the meat. In 
packing the meat put some salt in the bottom of the 
jar when commencing, and also add an ounce of salt- 
petre to twenty pounds of meat, distributed through 
the meat as packed. If it begins to sour, take it out 
of the brine, rinse well in cold water, cleanse the ves- 
sel well with hot water, re-pack in brine. When the 
brine seems thick and ropy, the meat is not doing well 
and must be looked after. When the sides are wanted 
for bacon, they can be cured with the hams and 
shoulders. 

For a dry salt cure, as soon as the meat is cooled 
out one should begin immediately to salt it. A clean 
oak or molasses barrel is the best to use. Cover the 
bottom with salt, and, commencing with the hams, 
the shoulders and the sides last, put each piece in a 
tub of salt and rub both sides thoroughly with it. 
Pack in the barrel as closely as possible. Put plenty 
of salt between the pieces and layers of meat. When 
packed, leave three weeks and then take it out and re- 
pack it. Leave three weeks more, take it out, rub well 
with black pepper, hang up and smoke. Use corn 
cobs, green hickory, or sassafras wood, taking care to 



i34 BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 

have smoke, but not fire enough to make heat. When 
smoked enough, which will take from five to ten days, 
take down, wrap in paper and put in a muslin sack, 
tie tight and hang up in a cool, dry, dark place. 

A quick sugar cure: For one hundred pounds of 
meat, take one quart of salt, one pint brown sugar, 
three tablespoonfuls of black pepper and two table- 
spoonfuls of saltpetre; dissolve the saltpetre in hot 
water, and pour over the other ingredients; mix well 
and rub thoroughly, and leave it lie thirty days. Look 
after it occasionally, and rub the preparation over it, 
then hang up and smoke. 

The worms in meat are caused by a small black 
bug, and not by a fly, as some suppose. Meat should 
always be sacked as soon as smoked, for these bugs 
appear very early in the spring, frequently in February 
or March. 

Brines for pork and beef: To one hundred pounds 
of meat, take ten pints of salt, five pints of brown sugar 
or New Orleans molasses, two ounces of soda and one 
ounce of saltpetre, with enough water to cover the 
meat. Mix the salt and sugar, rub the flesh side of 
each piece with it, and pack in the barrel, having first 
covered the bottom of the barrel with salt. When the 
meat is all in, make a pickle of the remainder, as fol- 
lows: Put the salt and sugar in water, dissolve the 
soda and saltpetre in hot water, add it to the brine and 
pour over the meat. Put on a sufficient weight to 
keep it down, and leave in for six weeks. Then take 
out, sprinkle with black pepper and hang up to smoke. 
Brine for beef is made the same way, except to use two 
pints less salt. If the brine gets thick or ropy, boil 
and skim it, let cool and put it back. The pieces that 
are intended for dried beef must be taken out in three 
weeks, and cured by drying or smoking. The others 
must be kept in brine. 



BUTCHERING HOGS AND CURING THE MEAT. 135 

Another: To one gallon of water take one and 
one-half pounds of salt, one-half pound of sugar, one- 
fourth ounce of saltpetre, one-half ounce of potash. 
Omit the potash unless you can get the pure article. 
Druggists generally keep it. 

In this ratio the pickle can be increased to any 
quantity desired. Let these be boiled together until 
all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and is skim- 
med off. Then throw it into a tub to cool, and when 
cold pour it over your beef or pork. The meat must 
be. well covered with pickle, and should not be put 
down for at least two days after killing, during which 
time it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered salt- 
petre, which removes all surface blood, etc., leaving 
the meat fresh and clean. 

To keep hams: For one hundred pounds of meat, 
take eight pints of salt, two tablespoonfuls of saltpetre 
and four gallons of water; put the hams in this pickle, 
keeping them well under the brine; in April, take out, 
drain for a few days, slice as for cooking, fry nearly as 
much as for table, and pack in stone jars. When full, 
put on a weight and leave stand until cool, then pour 
over the fat fried out. Prepared in this way, they re- 
tain the ham flavor without being smoked. 

If these recipes are strictly followed it will require 
but a single trial to prove their superiorty over the 
common way, or most ways, of putting down meat, 
and they will not soon be abandoned for any other. 
The meats are unsurpassed for sweetness, delicacy and 
freshness of color. 

" Bad dinners go hand in hand with total depravity, 
while a properly fed man is already half saved." 



CHAPTER IX. 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE, 



Hog Houses are Necessary — First Design — Second Design — Third 
Design — Fourth Design, a Portable House— Troughs for 
Swine. 




HOG HOUSES ARE NECESSARY. 

OUSES or pens for swine are, as a rule, indis- 
pensible to successful swine raising. Their use 
is so often needed at all times of the year and 
for so many different purposes, that after a person 
once builds a well arranged hog house or set of pens, 
he will wonder how he has done without them so long. 
There are many farmers who think it so costly an 
operation to build a hog house or some pens, that they 
never commence them. That is very often a mistake, 
for most farmers could build themselves a very com- 
fortable hog house or set of pens at a very small 
expense, except for the labor, and that can very often 
be done at such times as they have no other urgent 
work to do, and therefore the cost would be very light, 
especially when compared to their value. In order to 
show how this may be done, the author will give 
several different designs or plans from which any one 
can choose a plan to suit his surroundings. 

In building a structure of any kind, it is always 
best to have a definite plan, and aim to adopt it 
exactly to your wants, as far as practicable. A little 
forethought in choosing site, determining dimensions 
and arranging details before the building is com- 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 137 

menced, will accomplish much for future convenience. 
Changes from original plans are very expensive, cause 
delay, and are often unsatisfactory. These rules will 
hold good in building pens for swine, as well as for 
other buildings. The comfort and requirement of the 
stock and the storing of food and supplies must all be 
taken into consideration. The first thing to decide on 
is always the location. Sometimes this is hard to do, 
as there are several things to be taken into considera- 
tion. The other farm buildings may be built in such 
a way that it is difficult to choose a site which will 
make the house or pens convenient to use, and yet far 
enough away from the dwelling. If a proper place is 
chosen, the lots joining the building can very often be 
formed without the use of very much fencing. For 
these reasons, before one attempts to build, the work 
ought to be the subject of careful study. Any farmer 
who intends erecting buildings of a costly nature, 
would do well to spend some time in examining good 
buildings belonging to other farmers, or in studying 
plans which are accessible in books or papers. A 
house or set of pens for swine should be on the high- 
est ground attainable within the desired place. The 
point to be preferred is toward the south. The next 
best is toward the south-east. It should be so built 
that it can be well ventilated and cleaned, and also 
admit the light and warmth of the sun. It should 
have lots so attached that the hogs can have access to 
them for exercise and air. Whatever the plan, in the 
first place such houses must be dry. As the hog in 
winter spends a good part of his time in his bed, it 
should therefore be a comfortable one, as comfort is 
essential to the contentment and thrift of all animals. 
The bed should be dry, warm, and well ventilated. 
A dirt floor for this department is best, and it should 
be separate from the feeding room. A dirt floor is 



138 HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 

warmer than one of boards, and becoming rounded 
out fits the shape of the animal, and it rests much 
more comfortably. Hogs that sleep on a board, brick 
or stone floor often have lumps raised on their limbs, 
and they frequently become sore and painful. In 
order to have a dirt floor dry, it should be raised con- 
siderably above the surrounding level. 

The sleeping room should be tight and warm as 
possible in cold weather, and have means of cleaning 
out and ventilation when moderate, and should at all 
times be supplied with clean, dry bedding. Leaves, 
prairie hay or corn stalks, make good beds. Straw 
will do, but must be changed often, as it wears out 
fast and is very liable to become damp. For a feeding 
department, a pen on the south or east side of a 
building, with a tight floor sloping a little from the 
building, will answer every purpose. 

Adjoining this feeding floor and the sleeping de- 
partment, also, if possible, there should be a manure 
pit or lot, so that the cleanings of both places can be 
thrown out. When feeding time arrives, the hogs 
should be compelled to pass through this lot and held 
there a short time to make their discharges before 
passing upon the feeding floor. Finally a supply of 
good water troughs and water, and a crib of corn, all 
arranged for convenience, are essentials not to be 
overlooked. 

FIRST BUILDING DESIGN. 

I will give first a simple and cheap plan for breed- 
ing pens. The draft is only designed to give a general 
idea of the arrangements, which are simple, and may 
be varied to suit the convenience of almost any farmer. 
The cost, except the labor, could be made light. The 
building can be made twelve feet wide and of any 
length desired. The pens should be 8x8, which will 
leave an alley or passway under cover four feet wide. 



HOUSES AND XliuUGHS FOE SWINE. 



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140 HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE 

There should be a door to each pen, 2x3 J feet in size, 
to accommodate large sows. Unless the building is 
unnecessarily high at the back part, this door should 
be hung. Where the building is high enough, a drop 
door can be used. If possible, each pen should have a 
lot attached to it for the use of the sow. At the front 
end of each pen, cut a door large enough to allow the 
pigs to pass in and out. This can be closed by a slid- 
ing door, and so arranged to suit the size of the pigs by 
raising it and holding it by a pin. By this means the 
pigs can be fed in front of the pen by themselves. The 
partition between the pens should be so arranged that 
they can be swung up out of the way, or taken out, 
thereby throwing two or more pens into one, forming 
a sleeping or feeding place for several hogs. This 
building should by all means face the south or east. 
If four feet high behind and eight feet high in front, it 
will do, or it may be higher if wanted. The front part 
of the pens for 3 J feet high should be boarded up tight, 
also the ends of the building and the back part, all but 
the doors. Boards 16 feet long are the right length. 
They will close up two pens in front, or, cut in two, 
will form the partitions, and will cut to a good advant- 
age in boarding up the back part or to form the doors. 
They are also of the right length for the roof, where 
boards are to be used, which make as sood a roof as is 
necessary. 

After boarding up three and a half feet of the front 
part of the pens, the upper part can be closed by fall- 
ing doors, one for each per, hung above by hinges or 
by a 2x4 piece set in the uprights, by rounding the 
ends and boring holes in the posts. When these doors 
are down they ought to close up the open space tight, 
or when swung up they will be out of the way so as to 
admit the sun and air. This should be done at all 
times, except in cold, stormy weather. The pens 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 141 

should be provided with a smooth, tight board floor, 
so as to keep out the cold and save the feed; and it is a 
good plan to place, at the back part of the pen be- 
tween the door and partition, a shelf six inches wide 
and eight inches from the floor, for the pigs to get 
under so the sow cannot lie on them. At the ends of 
this pen corn-cribs of any length desired can be built, 
with a ten-foot passway between the pen and crib. 
This can have a dirt floor and be used for hogs to sleep 
in. In front of this building, and extending in the 
same direction, can be formed a feed-lot for other hogs, 
with a feeding-floor, manure-pit and a sleeping apart- 
ment at one end, or a corn-crib, sleeping-place, feed- 
floor and manure-pit. In forming this second lot, if 
the corn-crib and feeding-floor, etc., are at one end, the 
other end of the lot should be open. 

In forming the first set of pens, where lumber is 
high, they can be covered with prairie hay or straw; 
the back part can be made to do for a fence and 
banked up in the winter with straw or corn-fodder, and 
the doors and lots formed in front of the pens. When 
there is no board floor put in the pens, they should be 
filled with good clay six or eight inches deep, then 
looked after often and kept dry and clean. 

At the end of the alley an elevated walk can be 
constructed, sloping from the alley out, and of the 
right height at the back end to suit a wagon when 
backed up for the purpose of loading hogs. The hogs 
can be turned into this alley-way and loaded into the 
wagon. A light board shield that can be carried 
easily should always be carried behind the hogs when 
loading to keep them from running back. 

The drat, (fig. 2) is similar to the first, except that 
it has a double set of pens constructed alike with an 
alleyway between them. This makes a building twenty 
feet wide, or wider if liked, and any length desired, and 



142 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOE SWINE. 



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SECOND DESIGN. (Fig. 2) 
Pens, 8x8, 8x10. a a a Trough, bbb Doors for entrance and Exit of 
Hogs, c c Doors opening from Pens into the Hall, which, when both 
opened at once, fasten together and close the Passage into the Hall, d d 
Movable Partitions, e e Doors for Entrance to Hall. 

has to be roofed both ways. If well built it can be 
made very comfortable in cold weather by the use of a 
stove, which is an important feature should a cold 
snap occur when pigs are expected. The doors at the 
ends of the alley-way can be made in two halves, in 
order to have the upper half open for ventilation when 
wanted, and there can also be a window over the doors 
to admit light. 

The pens on each side at one end of the building 
should have doors two feet wide, which should open 
into the alley. These, hooked together, form a pass- 
age-way from one side to the other. When partitions 
are out, both sides can be used for feeding, or one side 
for feeding and one for lodging. Partitions can be 
stowed away overhead and replaced when wanted for 
sows. This building can be built on a cheap plan, or 
made more costly if so desired. According to the de- 
sign as here given the pens should be set on stone 
piers, about 1J feet high; sills, 8x8 inches; joists, 
2x8; plates, 4x4; rafters, 2x4, two feet apart; roof, -J 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 143 

pitch with two good ventilators in peak and right dis- 
tance apart for appearance. Seven feet from top of 
sill to top of plate. Stock board fourteen feet in 
length, cut in the middle, can be used for the sides; 
battened all around; sealed up inside with common 
lumber to bottom of windows ; tar-paper used on sides 
and roof; two-inch plank for floor; shingled roof. This 
comprises about all needed for a fine structure. 

At one end of this building grain bins and a feed- 
ing room can be formed if desired, with a steamer or 
stove of any kind to cook food or heat water. Or it 
can be built one and one-half stories high, with a 
granary overhead at one end, and a place for bedding 
material at the other, which would be of an advantage 
in cold weather to keep the pen warm. 

THIRD DESIGN. 

This draft or plan is very much like the last one, 
except that it has a main floor at one end to prepare 
the feed and is intended to be either one or two stories 
high. The diagram will explain the building. 

These diagrams, rude as they may seem, will no 
doubt be plain enough to give any one an idea how 
these pens are constructed, and enable him to build a 
house or set of pens to suit his wants. The doors at 
the back part of the pens, if arranged to raise and fall 
in opening and closing, can be opened and shut by the 
use of a small pulley over the top of the door and a 
rope reaching from the top of the door over the 
pulley to the alley way. 

Note. — When a hog house is built up off the 
ground, which is the best way to build them if possi- 
ble, it should be well banked up in the winter to keep 
it warm, and the dirt or other material should be 
removed again in the spring so as to admit the air. 
By this means it can be made more comfortable and 
healthful, 



144 HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 

A BATH BOX. 

The box marked j in the diagram is 4x8 feet and a 
foot or more deep. It should be made of two-inch 
plank and water tight. The end next the alley way 
must be made slanting, and have some slats fastened 
on it on the inside some three inches apart to keep 
the pigs from slipping when going in or out of the 
box. One side should be set against the partition, and 
the other side can have some movable boards on top 
of it, held in position with slats at the end, and high 
enough so that the pigs cannot get over. The box 
is the same length as the pen. The end next the 
alley way must have a door or gate to open into the 
alley. After the pigs are once in the box, this can be 
closed to keep them in. A light, movable walk, for 
this end of the box, for the pigs to go upon, is also 
necessary. By turning the pigs into the alley way and 
going behind them with a slat frame about as wide as 
the alley, they can be made to walk into this box 
without any trouble for the purpose of washing them. 

In this way half a dozen or more pigs can be 
washed at a time and then turned out and another lot 
put in. As soon as through, the water ought to be 
drawn off which can be done by having a hole in the 
bottom of the box. In the winter, or any other time, 
this box can be used to mix feed in, and in that way 
made to answer two purposes. The old saying, 
" What ever is worth doing, is worth doing well," will 
hold good in washing pigs at times, as well as feeding 
them. 

Swine seek their wallow of water or mud only to 
allay their most uncomfortable heat of body. There- 
fore they need, in hot weather, a shallow bath in which 
to cool themselves and cleanse their skin. This plan 
of bath is so simple, that, in any convenient hog 
house, it can be adapted for a large or small lot of 



HOUSES AND TKOUGHS FOR SWINE. 



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146 HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 

pigs at little expense or labor. A bath box similar to 
this can be made at a convenient place outside and 
supplied with water and the pigs will not require any 
teaching to avail themselves of it. 

A box for this purpose should not be over eight or 
nine inches deep. It can be of any width or length 
desired and should be put in the ground, bedded in 
puddled clay to make it water tight. Plank or gravel 
put around it, is all that is needed to prevent mud. 

A MOVABLE PIG HOUSE. 

A light portable pig house, large enough to accom- 
modate a brood sow, is often very convenient. It can 
be taken into a field, grove or grass lot, at any time to 
accommodate a favorite sow and pigs, or some nervous 
sow that does not do well when housed close to other 
sows and pigs, or where she is disturbed. It also 
comes handy to set in a lot to shelter a boar, ram, 
some choice pigs or poultry for a time. I will describe 
how to make a house of this kind, as given by L. N. 
Bohman. The cut represents the house described, 
except that it has a sky-light to admit the sunshine 
in cold weather, which is very beneficial to young 
stock. Any farmer can at a very small expense build 
a few houses as thus described, which he will find very 
useful at almost all times of the year. 




HOW TO MAKE THE HOUSE. 

Provide four scantlings, 2x2, 12 feet long, two 
scantlings 2x4, 12 feet long; fifty feet of flooring for 
roof, and seventy-five feet of flooring for sides and 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE, 147 

ends. Let the flooring for the roof be the best, free 
from knots and windshakes. Cut four rails or nail 
ties, 2x4, 6 feet long, for the back and front. Now cut 
siding enough for the back, 3 feet long, and then two 
boards one foot wide, 4^ feet long, for the front. Nail 
two of these boards to the flat side of two of the rails 
above named, letting the outer edge of each board 
project one inch past the ends of the rails, and have 
the rails flush with the ends of the boards, taking care 
always to put the siding square with the rails. The 
bottom rail, on edge, keeps in the bedding, and is not 
too high for sow or pigs to get over easily. For the 
back, nail the three-foot boards to the two-inch face of 
the rails, letting top rail be at the ends of the boards 
which project one inch at the ends of the rails, and 
the bottom rail be eight inches from the other ends of 
siding, which when set up allows the bottom rail to 
prevent the sow from crushing pigs against the side. 

After the siding is nailed as above, make mortises 
1x2 inches just under the rails of the back, and two 
inches from the edges of the boards. In the front 
make the mortises 1x2 above the bottom rail, and the 
top mortises opposite those in the back. The front 
and back are now complete. 

Cut four rails, 2x2, 5J feet long, and make a tenon, 
1x2, 3 inches long, by cutting into the rail one inch 
and ripping back to the shoulder, which makes the 
tenon on one side of the rail. Draw-bore these tenons 
with a five-eighth bit, and put them into the mortises 
of the back and front, so the outside of the rail is 
flush with the siding at the front and back; put in the 
drawpins and the frame is complete. 

Now cut the siding for the two ends and nail it to 
the rails as they stand, and you will have no trouble 
in taking apart and putting up again. Draw a line 
from the top of the front to the top of the back, and 



148 HOUSES AND TKOUGHS FOR SWINE. 

saw to it for slope of the roof. This done, cut three 
slots, 2x2, for rafters to rest in, one notch six inches 
from the front, one three inches from the back, and 
the other notch half way between these two. Take 
three of the rails, 2x2, 6J feet long, left after cutting 
the four side rails, and lay in these notches so they 
project three inches at each end. Saw the roofing to 
project eight inches at the rear and three inches in 
front. Lay this flooring for the roof carefully and 
paint each joint as laid. When done, paint the roof 
well. It will pay also to paint the house with oil and 
Prince's Brown, which is cheap and lasting. The 
front of this house is now open, 4 feet high, less 8 
inches, the width of the rails. The closed sides should 
set north and west, to exclude cold winds, and the 
open front face the east and south, to admit sunshine. 

We have a movable front and swinging door to 
close all up if a sow is to farrow there in early spring. 
The movable front is made by nailing the boards to 
two-inch battons which must fit between the two front 
rails, and project one inch at one side, so as to catch 
within the siding. On the other end of the battons 
we have a button on each to catch the upper and 
lower rails. By swinging a door in the remaining 
space the house is closed, and there is complete pro- 
tection against storms. We use these movable fronts 
in early spring until the pigs are old enough to endure 
the cold, when the front is taken off and laid away. 
If the house is set up on a dry spot where the water 
will not run under, or if a trench is cut behind for the 
drip of the roof to run off, the inmates will be more 
comfortable than in any of our big houses. 

Each spring and fall we take these houses down 
and whitewash inside, and never have a new litter 
begin life in the old filth of their predecessors. With 
a clean house, on a clean, fresh sod, the young pigs 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 149 

start life without being handicapped by disease. The 
sow should become accustomed to the house two weeks 
before farrowing, and the swinging door should be 
kept open. The night she is to farrow it may be 
closed, and then the pigs are safe from any storm. A 
handy man can make two of these houses in a day, 
and the cost of material does not exceed $2.50 each. 

The above description is for a house without the 
skylight. The sash and lights cost about $2. In 
bright, cold, or windy days, in March or April, the 
glass lets the sunshine pour into the bed, which the 
pig enjoys. We cannot get too much sunshine for the 
pigs in the spring of the year. 

These movable pig houses will be found most con- 
venient on small farms where permanent hog houses 
are not provided. To the tenant who wishes to give 
his pigs better care than the quarters of the rented 
farm afford, they will be found of especial value, as he 
can move them as he does his implements and stock. 
To move from one lot to another, a sled may be slipped 
under, or the house can be taken down by removal of 
the pins, and placed in a wagon, or carried piece by 
piece by one person. On flat land, where drainage is 
poor, it will be well to make a floor of inch boards, cut 
so that the pens set down over it. This keeps the 
floor perfectly dry. The floor should fit the house, so 
that there will b no danger of a pig's foot or leg being 
caught between the floor and house. In order to pre- 
vent killing the grass and destroying the sod, the 
house should not be allowed to stand long in one spot, 
but moved often to keep the soil and grass fresh. 
With clean beds, in clean houses, on clean sod, we may 
hope to raise healthy pigs, if fed judiciously and bred 
for constitution rather than for color, and fat. These 
houses will be found more useful, convenient, health- 
ful, and less expensive than large hog pens. 



150 HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 
TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 

Every farmer in this wide land of ours, from ocean 
to ocean, is interested in hogs. No well-regulated farm 
should be without them. They fill a niche in mixed 
farming that no other animal can supply. They largely 
subsist on stuff that would otherwise be wasted. They 
are economizers, benefactors, and the poor man's 
friend, as it takes less means to stock up with them, 
and they make quicker returns than any other stock. 
The old saying that " Swine is King," is a true one. 
But if you are opposed to raising hogs for sale, at 
least try and keep a few pigs to consume the waste. 
It will pay to do so. 

The trough is as essential as the breed, and should 
be well filled. The breed is the machinery, and the 
trough supplies the raw material for manufacture. 

Since information on making troughs for swine 
may be of value to some of the readers of this book, I 
will endeavor to explain how to make a few troughs 
that will be found practicable to use. First, the old 
log trough, made by squaring up a piece of timber, 
9x12 and of any length, and hollowing it out by the 
use of an ax or foot adze, is a good stationary trough, 
for the hogs cannot upset it, and, if made of good tim- 
ber, will last for years. A trough similar to it can be 
made by spiking and bolting together three two-inch 
boards, with ends well set in. Light troughs for pigs 
or for general use, where they are to be lifted about, 
can be made in the same way out of six-inch fencing 
boards. To keep hogs from crowding one another, up- 
right pieces can be fastened on the sides about a foot 
apart; if set against a fence or in a pen, only one side 
should have the pieces. The hogs can be kept out of 
the trough until the feed is put in by means of a wide 
board, or two put together with battons. It should 
be wide enough so one edge can rest on the edge of the 



HOUSES AND TROUGHS FOR SWINE. 151 

trough, or on slats put across the trough, and the 
other edge fastened to the pen or fence by means 
of straps or hinges; this board must be in a sloping 
position, the board or shute that carries the swill into 
the trough being under it. When the hogs are wanted 
in the trough, raise the board by use of a rope or strap 
fastened to the outer edge of it and fasten it up. As 
soon as the hogs are done eating it can be lowered 
again; in this way the hogs can be kept out of the 
trough and it can be kept cleaner than when they 
have free access to it all the time or exposed to the 
weather. The eves-trough, made by nailing two 
boards together edgewise, of any length, width or 
thickness, and then nailing on or setting in end-pieces 
is a common and handy trough. Large troughs made 
this way can have a wide board or two narrow ones, 
running lengthwise in the center of the trough and 
braced by pieces from the edge of the trough to them, 
to keep the hogs from crowding or getting over the 
top. Troughs for small pigs should be made low and 
nearly square, as more pigs can get to them, and they 
cannot be upset; they are also easily cleaned. Oak 
lumber is the best to use to make troughs out of, as it 
will last longer and hold the nails better. 



CHAPTER X. 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 



What Causes Cholera, Swine Fever -Its Prevailing Local Causes 
— No Breed Cholera Proof— Common Errors in Feeding- 
Wheat Stubble Pasture — Confinement, Bad Food and Water 
—Straw Stacks, Manure Heaps and Barns— Trichinae in Hogs 
A Different System Needed — Infectious and Contagious Char- 
acter of Cholera, Swine Feever — Danger Arising From Running 
Streams or Pools— Danger in Exposure of Dead Hogs— The 
Period Between Exposure and the Attacks. 




HOG CHOLERA, SWINE FEVER. 

HAT causes hog cholera or swine fever? is a 
question which has been often asked, and for 
which many answers have been proposd, but 
among the hog-growing people of this country, it is as 
far from solution as ever. While certain theorists and 
their advocates talk "filth" all the time as its cause, 
others unmercifully condemn the improved breeding 
of swine. The farmer knows there is something in 
this when carried to the extreme, but he is often puz- 
zled to know why his hogs get sick, when kept in clean 
quarters and not purely bred, while his neighbor's 
purely bred hogs are in good condition; and, on the 
other hand, it not infrequently occurs that the farmer 
who keeps purely bred hogs loses his, while his neigh- 
bor, owning native bred hogs, has his herd in a thrifty 
condition. In studying the causes of this epidemic, too 
much attention cannot be given to the local causes, as 
well as the artificial condition of the patient. It is 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 153 

true, when a rapid growth has been attained by artifi- 
cial means, we lose in vitality, hardiness and constitu- 
tion. This is especially the case in the improved 
breeds of hogs, which now weigh as much at nine 
months as the old hardy breeds did at eighteen. In- 
stead of roaming at large, unlimited by field or pen, 
as the old native breed did, and maturing more slowly, 
they have been subjected to confinement, fed with 
corn, cooked food, distilled or other slops, etc., which 
were entirely unknown to them in their native state, 
thus opening up the way for hog cholera and other 
fatal diseases. This cause has also been increased by 
inbreeding too closely or breeding from too young or 
runty and inferior animals. To obviate this too much 
attention cannot be given to the selection of thrifty 
and well-matured animals as breeders, and treating 
them as near like nature as possible. 

NO BREED CHOLERA PROOF. 

No breed, however, is exempt from this disease. 
Even the " Hazel Splitter " with all his vigor of consti- 
tution could not resist taking this disease when ex- 
posed to it in its epidemic or contagious form. The 
representation that any improved breed of hogs are 
cholera proof is a fallacy. It is true, the better consti- 
tution a hog has, the better fortified he is against such 
epidemics. Hence a hog, forced in growth all the time, 
is more liable to disease, than one grown more slowly, 
because its digestive and other organs become impaired 
and its ability to resist the attacks of disease is 
thereby lessened. 

The present practice of raising swine artificially by 
the use of such stimulating foods as will secure a rapid 
growth and quick development, is the most fruitful 
cause of disease among swine otherwise well cared for. 



154 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

COMMON ERRORS IN FEEDING. 

Unquestionably many healthy hogs are made sick 
and die, by the thoughtlessness of their owners in sud- 
denly changing from dry feed to green corn. The vast 
amount of saccharine matter taken into the stomach 
of the animal, impairs its digestion, and on failure of 
assimilation the food ferments and sets up an inflam- 
mation in the stomach and bowels which either pro- 
duces an active diarrhea or severe constipation. Both 
these conditions are often noticed in a herd of hogs at 
the same time, and apparently arising from the same 
cause. 

The same effect is produced on hogs when taken 
from short dry pasture fields, where they have been 
kept for some time, and turned into a stubble field 
where there is a rank growth of clover, or into a 
clover field, where the second crop is growing rank. 
The disastrous effects of these changes are more easily 
noticeable if the change be made during a warm, wet 
time, as under such circumstances fermentation takes 
place in the stomach of the animal more quickly than 
at any other time. Another fruitful cause of sickness 
from which farmers suffer greatly is allowing hogs to 
run in matured clover fields and feeding old corn, or 
not feeding at all. The effect noticeable in this 
class of cases is almost universally a constipated con- 
dition of the animal. The same fevered and con- 
stipated condition is noticeable when hogs are shut up 
in pens, or lots, and fed old dry corn in large quanti- 
ties, for the purpose of fattening. 

WHEAT STUBBLE PASTURE. 

Another dangerous practice which causes the same 
trouble, is that of turning hogs into a wheat field, in a 
dry time, particularly so when the nerd is small or the 
field very large, and the amount of wheat left on the 
ground in harvesting is considerable. The hogs begin 



PREVAILING CAUSES OE SWINE DISEASES. 155 

eating the dry wheat at once, and continue just as 
long as they can find it, unless they get sick before it 
is all eaten, which not infrequently occurs. The dry 
wheat, when taken into the stomach without proper 
mastication, is almost certain to clog the stomach, 
and remain indigested, producing a bilious condition 
of the animal, resulting in fever and constipation. 
Practical demonstrations have proven that wheat 
should never be fed to hogs unless ground, soaked or 
cooked. 

The farmer who is fearful of having his fields rooted 
or torn up by his hogs, is careful to put rings in 
the nose of each pig as soon as weaned, thus depriving 
it of a taste or smell of fresh earth, and the use of an 
instinct which teaches it in bilious attacks to search 
for bugs, worms, and other insects as well as roots or 
vegetables, the natural excitants of the stomach, liver 
and bowels. He never once thinks of the necessity of 
furnishing the animal an artificial substitute for these. 
Dr. Koch, an eminent German scientist and a stand- 
ard authority on cholera in the human species, says: 
" Cholera will have but little effect among those who 
keep the digestive organs, and the kidney and liver in 
a healthful condition." Following this suggestion of 
Dr. Koch's, the author has, by repeated experiments, 
practically demonstrated that swine are subject to the 
same physical laws as the human race respecting the 
administration of medicine for the prevention of dis- 
eases. And by giving attention to the local condition 
of the animal and furnishing it with proper remedies, 
if administered in time, not only will the diseases 
arising from local causes be removed or prevented, 
but exposure of the herd to swine fever, cholera, how- 
ever contagious, will not result disastrously. 



156 PEEVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 
CONFINEMENT, BAD FOOD AND WATER. 

Confining hogs in a small lot or pen and compel- 
ling them to drink stagnant and filthy water, and in 
the winter season, ice or snow water, or scanty feeding, 
or dry corn, or musty, moldy and unwholesome food, 
causes worms in the intestines of the animal, which 
most generally produce unthriftiness, constipation 
and disease; such treatment will sometimes produce 
diarrhoea or other ailments of the digestive organs. 
The foregoing illustrates the common errors in feeding 
hogs, which have resulted in the disease called cholera 
or swine fever. Aside from the errors in feeding 
which I have briefly enumerated, there are other 
causes of disease which frequently occur which I will 
mention: First, allowing hogs to run in fields along 
streams, or in bottom or low lands during wet seasons, 
when decaying vegetable substances are throwing out 
their poisonous miasma. Many thus contract disease 
similar to malaria fever, which, if neglected, may and 
frequently does become fatal. A timely application of 
proper remedies which will act upon the liver and 
kidneys without irritating the digestive organs will 
almost invariably relieve this difficulty, and it does 
not require close attention on the part of the feeder to 
discover this condition of the animals. Second, the 
habit of turning hogs into a wood lot in seasons when 
there is a large quantity of oak mast, is very danger- 
ous, and not infrequently results in the death of a 
portion, if not all the herd. It may be inquired, why 
did not the hogs of " ancient days " die, when they 
had nothing else? The reason is plain to a practical 
observer, and is the same as before assigned. The 
"ancient hog" was by nature calculated to root for 
such things as his system required, such as roots, 
insects, earthy substances, reptiles and young animals 
which tended directly to overcome the powerful effect 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 157 

of the astringent properties of the seed or jackoak 
acorn. This variety of mast is far the most danger- 
ous, as its astringent properties are proportionally 
greater. Continued feeding upon these nuts injuri- 
ously affects the urinary and other organs. 

The cultivation of land and removal of timber, 
have left the fields free from roots and herbs, mice, 
insects, and other varieties of such food as formerly 
was found and eaten, rendering the hog entirely in- 
capable of obtaining the needful remedies for such 
condition as above described. Any prudent farmer 
will see at once how necessary it is to supply this want, 
and will do so instead of allowing the hogs to die. 

STRAW STACKS, MANURE HEAPS AND BARNS. 

Another and potent cause of disease is the manner 
in which hogs are kept, and particularly so where the 
farmer entrusts the entire care of the animals to the 
employes about the farm, who naturally take little or 
no interest in the condition in which they are kept, in 
order to avoid extra labor, and attention in caring for 
them. The owner having neglected to provide suitable 
quarters, the hogs are expected and allowed to shift 
for themselves as best they can, And in cases of this 
kind they very often seek an old straw stack, ferment- 
ing manure heaps, dusty shed or barn in which to 
sleep. This cannot be too severely condemned. Here 
they crowd together in large or small numbers, accord- 
ing to the size of the drove, and sometimes even 
burrow beneath the straw or litter, and are thus com- 
pelled to breath the impure and noxious gases 
engendered thereby. These taken into the system 
poison and weaken it, and generate disease, which, 
sooner or later, takes a malignant form, in the way of 
typhoid or lung fever, and becomes epidemic and con- 
tagious and spreads over a large scope of country. In 
my practice I have often traced the first disease that 



158 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

was known in a neighborhood, to some farm where I 
was satisfied it started in this way. In other instances 
it was traced to farms where the swine were allowed to 
sleep in dusty sheds or under barns. Here they are 
compelled to breathe or inhale the impure air and 
dust found in such places, which is very dangerous, 
especially where the buildings are occupied by other 
animals. The solid and liquid excretions of the other 
stock, mixed with that of the swine, or the excretions 
of the swine, mixed with the dry litter of sheds or 
barns, present the means for the germination of dis- 
ease. In warm or wet weather, the evils that arise 
from swine sleeping in the above named places are 
more noticeable and more dangerous than at any other 
time; as the hogs which are crowded or piled up in 
such places become very warm and wet with sweat, 
and upon coming out into the cool air, undoubtedly 
take cold and thereby contract a more fatal malad} 7 . 
By observation, I have very frequently found this to 
to be the cause of a very malignant type of disease, 
especially with fat, young hogs or pigs. This being 
the case, the farmer or owner of hogs should see at 
once how important it is to remove the cause, and 
give the hogs such treatment as would release the 
local trouble, before it had taken a fatal form. 

A DIFFERENT SYSTEM NEEDED. 

Swine need to be treated radically different from 
the usual methods employed in their feeding and care. 
Too much hog cholera pervades the hog growing dis- 
tricts; and it is caused almost wholly by not observing 
proper sanitary conditions in their feed and care. A 
hog is not necessarily a filthy animal, and if he is to 
make meat suitable for human food he should be reared 
in strict cleanliness, and fed on only such food as will 
be most conducive to healthy growth. The parasites, 
such as trichinae, which seem to make the system of 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 159 

the hog their home, are no doubt the offspring of the 
system of feeding and methods of their rearing, and 
when it is permitted to eat anything and everything, 
it will likely be affected with trichinae, and if it is 
much affected it will show it by its general appearance. 
Filth and unwholesome food will beget these parasitical 
and also other diseases in the human body; and could 
we reasonably expect a disregard of these sanitary 
conditions, which the human family has to observe so 
closely, to be carried on for years with the hog without 
producing at length just the results which have been 
observed in the cured pork that has made so much 
trouble with our export trade? A change must be 
made, and on many of our most advanced farms it 
has already been made; and the filthy pen and muddy 
yard have been dispensed with for the clean pastures. 
But yet corn, the great progenitor of so-called hog 
cholera, is still used too much in feeding young and 
growing swine; and the food for fattening hogs is con- 
fined entirely too exclusively to this heating and fever- 
producing grain. The eyes of many of our swine 
breeders are becoming opened to these facts, and they 
are making radical changes in their system of feeding. 
Corn is still their main food; but an exclusive corn 
diet, from birth until made into pork, has been changed 
for clover pasture, roots, etc., and a variety of grains. 
Cleanliness with raising and feeding hogs is j ust as 
essential as it is with other stock. The idea that any- 
thing is good enough for a hog, is an idea of the past, 
and is one that should not be practiced in this pro- 
gressive age. The meat of a clean and well-kept hog 
that has been fed on a variety of good food is far 
sweeter and better and more healthy than one raised 
in filth. The practice of feeding hogs in mud and filth, 
and the constant use of bad water, over-feeding of 
corn, clover, or any other food, is very wrong, and 



160 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

will bring on disease. A change should be made. 
That is, feed two or more kinds of food at a time. If 
they are being fed on old corn or running on clover 
that has become old, they should have, once a day, 
some wet food or swill, made of mill feed or ground 
grain, oats, barley or corn, or what is still better, 
crushed corn, as it is more bulky and affords rough- 
ness. This will aid digestion and prevent constipa- 
tion, and prove very beneficial in this way as well as 
to cause the hogs to fatten much faster. These sloppy 
foods are something that hogs at times necessarily 
need, or else roots or vegetables of some kind to take 
their place; also salt, or a better substitute to take its 
place, once or twice a week. For this purpose my 
Tonic Powder will be found invaluable. But treat 
hogs as you will, they are as liable to disease as any 
other stock, and when sick should be cared for. Hu- 
manity and sound policy demand this. 

TRICHINAE IN PORK. 

Never under any consideration whatever, use the 
meat of hogs that show any indications of disease, 
for it is in the flesh of these hogs that the parasites 
that cause trichinae are found, and it is by the use of 
diseased pork that this terrible disease is caused. 
There is no more danger in eating good healthy pork, 
either raw or cooked, than there is in eating some 
other meat the same way. If the lungs, liver, melts 
and kidneys are sound (void of ulceration), you can 
eat the meat with safety, as you please. If not, it 
should be well cooked at all times before using. This 
may sound strange to some who read it, as they think 
all persons cook their pork before eating it; they do, 
as a rule, but a great many farmers and others too, of 
every nationality, eat raw ham the same as dried beef. 

Hogs are not naturally infested with trichinae, 
unless they swallow or otherwise imbibe the germs of 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 161 

the insect to be found only in feculent matter in a state 
of fermentation or decomposition, either moist or in 
the dried, impalpable condition of a fine dust inhaled 
into the lungs, in which latter case they affect first the 
liver and then the colons and bowels, and the disease 
acquires the cognomen of " cholera," by the changed 
symptoms and malignant nature of the disorder. 

Unfortunately for the swine race under domestica- 
tion, they are not as fastidious in their taste as their 
fellow-beings of the bovine family, hence the conse- 
quence is that nutritious food is seized upon, though 
mixed up with feculain a state of fermentation, which, 
if it were separate, the hog would no more touch than 
the horse or ox, who by more fastidious tastes shun 
it even in the grass growing near to it and smelling of 
it. Yet the cow can be found to eat fecula in a state 
of fermentation, and thereby become liable to the in- 
fection we call trichinae in pork, only in the cow the 
disease would be called " pleuro-pneumonia," or per- 
haps farriery might call it "murrain." The hog can 
be saved from such liability by removing all tempta- 
tion to get it, or by preventing the animal from breath- 
ing it in dust. 

What I desire the reader to understand is, that 
neither hog, cow nor man or other animal is subject 
by nature to any infectious disease, except the germ of 
the infecting parasite be imbibed either by the stomach 
or some other imbibing organ of the animal, or in the 
case of external infection, and that all parasite life 
originates in matter in a state of fermentation, some- 
where in or between the vinous and the putrefactive 
stage, and that the matter imbibed is in the state of 
fineness of particles composing a gas, or in the more 
infinitesimal, primary state of spontaneous or electric 
combination; and lastly, from experience that hogs 
fed on grass, grain, slop or milk, before entering into 



162 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

the state of fermentation and unconflned in filthy stys 
and close atmospheres and noxious gases, are not sub- 
ject to any disease, much less trichinae, while any 
animal is subject to the diseases known to man only 
as indicated above. 

Dr. Detmers, a careful investigator of trichinae, 
says: " That I am correct in ascribing the principal 
sources of trichinae in hogs to the bad habits most of 
our farmers have of leaving hogs that die of swine 
plague, and of other diseases, too, unburied, will ap- 
pear from the following: We had very little swine 
plague and very few losses from that disease in the 
West in 1883. The winter of 1882-3 was a severe one, 
the spring of 1883 was wet, pouring rains were fre- 
quent, and the summer following rather backward and 
cool, all conditions unfavorable to the preservation 
and development of the swine plague germs (diplo- 
coceus suis). In August, 1885 when I announced my 
trichinae investigation, I examined mostly last year's 
hogs over a year old, and found 3 J per cent, trichinous; 
in September some younger hogs, or hogs less than a 
year old, commenced to come in, and I found only 2.43 
per cent, effected; in October, when most of the hogs 
examined were less than a year old, the percentage 
came down to 1.62 per cent., and in November, when 
nearly all the hogs examined were young animals, the 
very low percentage of .73 was reached. Besides that 
in some of the hogs found to be trichinous the trichinae 
were already calcined, or in a state of calcification, 
which shows that the same cannot have recently in- 
vaded the animal organism and were probably over a 
year old. Further, as said above, hogs from countries 
never seriously invaded by swine plague were almost 
invariably found free from trichinae. In one carload 
of hogs from Dakota, one animal was found to be 
trichinous, but the trichinae were old, showed incipient 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 163 

calcification, and it is tolerably safe to say that hog, 
very likely, was not a native of Dakota, but born and 
invaded by trichinae in Illinois, Iowa,' or some other 
State, from which many people recently emigrated to 
Dakota. Another proof that the prevalence of Swine 
plague, or numerous deaths caused by that disease, and 
that the consumption of the dead hogs by the living? 
constitute the principal source of trichiniasis in swine, 
is furnished by the following facts : A few years ago, 
when swine plague was extensively prevailing in the 
West, and when the losses caused by that disease were 
far greater than they are at present or have been dur- 
ing the last two years, the percentage of trichinous 
hogs reported by other investigators was much higher 
than that found by me in the fall 1883, from August 
till date, notwithstanding that my examinations have 
been made in a most thorough and conscientious man- 
ner, and with a microscope that had a large mechani- 
cal stage, which permitted a systematic- examination 
of every portion of the slide. If numerous deaths of 
hogs by swine plauge or from other causes, and a sub- 
sequent consumption of dead hogs by the living, does 
not constitute the most fruitful source of trichiniasis, 
the decrease in percentage of trichinous hogs coinci- 
dent with the gradual disappearance or decreased 
prevalence of swine plague cannot find a rational 
explanation." 

INFECTIOUS AND CONTAGIOUS CHARACTER OF 
SWINE FEVER. 

When cholera, swine fever, has assumed a malig- 
nant form, it is the same as the Asiatic cholera, or 
tyhpus or typhoid fever with the human family, and 
similar to epizootic and pneumonia with other stock, 
being infectious and contagious. It has been practi- 
cally demonstrated, by good authority that hog cholera, 
swine fever, is a " germ disease," capable of being ger- 



164 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

minated, propagated and transported in various ways. 
It has been a great mystery to the farmer how this dis- 
ease spreads from place to place without apparent 
actual contact, and was like fighting in the dark to 
attempt to prevent it, and many give up in despair 
and await its coming, or, after a few cases have oc- 
curred, cease all remedies or precautionary measures 
and allow their hogs to die. There is no doubt but 
that it is infectious and conveyed by pores or germs 
in the air. It is most difficult to draw the dividing 
line between the epizootic nature of the disease and 
the contagious form. There is no doubt but that the 
infectious nature of the disease may, under a predis- 
posing condition of local causes, etc., take the conta- 
gious form, which is far more malignant, sweeping and 
fatal in character. A few spasmodic cases may occur 
in a drove, which, if neglected, may so increase in 
number and violence as to become highly contagious. 
This contagious matter is of a fixed character, and is 
present in the blood, the discharges, and of course in 
the place inhabited. It possesses great vitality. 

Some of the principal methods of spreading this 
disease are the 

DANGERS ARISING FROM STREAMS OR POOLS. 

It is not infrequently the case that swine afflicted 
with this contagious disease will go to a running 
stream to drink, and, standing or lying in the water, 
die. The stream carries the virus from such dead ani- 
mals for miles along both its banks. And hogs drink- 
ing the water below are almost certain to contract the 
disease. The same class of exposure is met when buz- 
zards, which have gorged themselves on the carcasses 
of diseased hogs, seek a pool of water, and, after drink- 
ing, vomit the contents of the craw either into the 
water or on the banks. Hogs drinking the water, or 



PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 165 

eating such material, are certain to at once become 
diseased. Another method is 

IN THE EXPOSURE OF DEAD HOGS. 

Where dead hogs are not buried deeply, or piled 
up and left to decay, the grease from them will pene- 
trate the ground for quite a distance, carrying with it 
the poisonous virus or germs, which, away from the 
air, retain their poisonous qualities. Hogs coming in 
contact with those places will, in many instances, root 
up and eat the earth where such dead animals have 
decayed, and in such cases they invariably become 
diseased. There is also a practice of feeding the dead 
hogs to the herd, many farmers claiming by so doing 
the living animals are benefitted. But in all my years 
of experience I have never found this to be the case, 
unless the dead bodies were first well charred, when 
there may be some benefit derived in so doing, but 
otherwise it is only adding fuel to the fire. In some 
instances parties claim, by burning corn-cobs and corn 
with the dead hogs, and allowing the other hogs to eat 
this preparation, that the hogs will get well. I have 
done this when the circumstances would admit of it, 
as it has a similar effect to the medicine I use in treat- 
ing hogs, and sometimes saves using so much medi- 
cine. But it is not as reliable as the medicine, nor can 
it be at all times adopted. 

These methods of exposure to this disease I have 
always found to be very dangerous; and when hogs be- 
come diseased from either of these causes, such 
attacks almost invariably are attended with fatal re- 
sults. The germs of disease in such cases having been 
brought directly in contact with the mucus membrane 
of the mouth or stomach, and the warmth of the 
animal furnishing the germs with the needful elements 
of growth and formation, the hog speedily becomes 
diseased, past all hope of recovery, unless such treat- 



166 PREVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 

ment be resorted to at once as will enable the animal 
to throw off or overcome the effects of the poisonous 
matter. This alone should prove to the farmer how 
important it is to burn diseased hogs as soon as dead. 
For by so doing all this danger is obviated, and the 
germs are entirely destroyed. If left lying where they 
happen to die, or if they are hauled out &nd piled up, 
or not buried deeply, the carcass or a part is likely to 
be found and devoured by hogs, or else the bones and 
flesh will be carried about, and sometimes for miles by 
dogs or other animals and deposited in such places as 
hogs will find and devour them soon afterwards, and 
become diseased. Some advocate that the dead hogs 
should be buried at least four feet deep. Knowing 
that the farmer will not go to the trouble of burying 
them four feet deep, I still repeat the advice in my 
writings of former years, to burn them, as that obvi- 
ates any further trouble. 

THE PERIOD BETWEEN EXPOSURE AND THE ATTACK. 

The intensity of this contagious matter seems also 
to vary according to the form and malignancy of the 
disease. The period which elapses between exposure 
and the attack is hot always the same, varying with 
the form the disease assumes, from a few hours to a 
few weeks. As stated before, an infectious disease may 
become malignant and contagious, and one form of 
the disease does not necessarily impart the same type 
to another, but depends more upon the primary seat 
of the malady in the patient. It may take the enteric 
form or the external carbuncular character. It may 
localize its attack on certain organs with well defined 
symptoms, which are more prolonged in their results, 
or, it may effect the whole organization and destroy 
life in a few hours. The experiments of Drs. Law, 
Detmers, Salmon, Sutton, Budd, Osier and others, in 
inoculating sound hogs with the virus or poisonous 



PKEVAILING CAUSES OF SWINE DISEASES. 167 

blood of sick ones, have shown the period of incuba- 
tion to vary greatly, sometimes proving fatal the first 
day, and in other instances, not until the fifteenth day. 
Dr. Detemers gives the period " from five to fifteen 
days, or an average of seven days." The author's ex- 
perience and observation in having well hogs with 
sick ones, has placed the period of infection from three 
to thirteen days, but the majority of cases occur in 
from seven to nine days. 



This subject was overlooked — though somewhat 
out of place here — yet, for my own benefit, as well as 
for others, I will answer this question, which has been 
very often asked me: " Why do you not sell your 
treatment to the government; they offer a hundred 
thousand dollars for a cure for Hog Cholera?" 

Others will say, " Certain States offer ten or fifteen 
thousand dollars for a cure." Now I have heard this 
so often, and often, too, from good authority, that I 
supposed there was something in it; but upon investi- 
gation I found it all false. There never was and prob- 
ably never will be such an offer. It would not make 
any difference how good a cure any person had, to 
cause such an offer would take the united efforts of 
the entire agricultural press and people. The only 
way this terrible scourge can be controlled is for every 
swine breeder or feeder to take an interest in it, and 
make use of the best method of treatment that is 
known. 



CHAPTER XL 



INVESTIGATIONS OF SWINE DISEASE 



Investigations by the Government — Discoveries of Drs. H. J. 
Detmers, James Law, and Others— How it Affects the Lungs— 
When the Death Rates Increase — Intestine and Lung Worms— 
The Germ Theory — Crowding in Confined Spaces Under Barns 
— Drains, Manure Pits, Cars, and Vessels— Why Summer is the 
Most Dangerous Season— Value of Loose, Dry Earth as a Disin- 
fectant—Preventives Against Disease — Theoretical and Prac- 
tical Ideas. 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

IN support of the practical experience of the author 
set forth in the preceding pages, I cannot do bet- 
ter perhaps than to give some extracts from Drs. 
James Law and H. J. Detmers, in their excellent re- 
port to the Commissioner of Agriculture of the United 
States, in 1880, upon the cause and effect of hog 
cholera, swine fever, or what they called hog fever or 
swine plague. In experimenting in this direction and 
others, Dr. H. J. Detmers and Dr. James Law, while 
investigating this disease in the fall and winter of 
1878 and 1879, and in 1880, being a part of the com- 
mission as appointed by the government, made some 
discoveries which I consider of value, and I will give 
such extracts from their report as I think may be 
useful to the general farmer, in order to show more 
plainly the cause and effect of hog cholera or swine 
fever and its treatment. For it was about this time, 
or during the said investigation, that the " hog cholera 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 169 

or swine plague germ " was discovered, and since 
which practical experience has proven to be the cor- 
rect theory of the cause of the above named disease 
spreading so rapidly throughout the country. The 
suggestions are good and cannot be too carefully read 
and studied by any one, and especially those who have 
heretofore had no knowledge of the hog cholera germ 
or by the opponents of the so-called " germ theory " of 
diseases. 

Dr. Detmer says: " When I first commenced my 
investigation in the fall of 1878 and in the winter of 
1878 and 1879, I had clear sailing, because an abund- 
ance of material was always available. The disease 
presented itself almost everywhere in its malignant 
form. I endeavored first to ascertain the nature and 
the cause or causes of the disease, the means and the 
manner of its spreading, and the working of its morbid 
process; to discover the means necessary to check its 
spreading and to prevent its outbreak, and to learn the 
most practical means of prevention, that is, such as 
would most likely be the least objectionable to the 
farmers, and prove both effective and easy of applica- 
tion; to ascertain whether and to what extent an 
attack of swine plague terminating in recovery is 
able to destroy further predisposition or to produce 
immunity from the effects of a subsequent infection. 
Hence, as it was my intention to find reliable means 
of prevention, and to subject the preventives to a 
severe test, it was not advisable to inoculate from any 
case of swine plague that presented itself or was con- 
venient. But I made my selections, and only used 
material for inoculating fro:n malignant and typical 
cases of swine plague, also refusing to use any material 
from cases showing putrefaction; therefore, I am sure 
I have made no mistakes. 



170 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

HOW IT AFFECTS THE LUNGS. 

" The morbid process of swine plague can have 
its seat in almost any organ or part of the body. Yet it 
must be considered as characteristic of the disease that 
the lungs invariably are more or less affected, and coi • 
stitute in a large number of cases the principal seat of 
the morbid process. At any rate, in over two hundred 
post mortem examinations, I found this to be more or 
less the case. This stage of the disease, severe affec- 
tion of the lungs and heart, is more frequent in severe 
cold weather, and more acute, and fully as fatal as in 
warm weather, a fact easily explained in the habit of 
swine crowding together and lying on top of each 
other when the temperature is very low. Whenever 
investigations have been made, the examiners have 
found the symptoms and post mortem appearances of 
the disease the same, and hence agree as to the pro- 
priety of designating the affliction under the head of a 
general disorder. But during cold weather it does not 
seem to spread so readily from one farm to another as 
in warm weather, but as to its spreading from one ani- 
mal to another in the same herd in which it previ- 
ously existed, no difference can be observed. 

" Further, whenever the morbid process of swine 
plague has become sufficiently developed to produce 
morbid changes, serious enough to manifest their ex- 
istence by a rapid emaciation, the growth and thrift 
will be impaired, but the growth and thrift, it seems, 
remain more or less unimpaired only in such cases. 
Some years the disease is of a much milder type 
and less complicated than others, and the symptoms 
less varied, but otherwise exactly the same. 

WHEN THE DEATH RATES INCREASE. 

" The death rate in a herd of affected swine is in- 
creased or decreased respectively by the malignancy 
of the disease, which, it seems, depends largely on the 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 171 

one hand upon the rapidity with which the swine 
plague germs develop and propagate, and, on the other 
hand, upon the size of the herd, the condition of the 
premises upon which they are kept, the number of 
diseased animals in the herd, and the mode and man- 
ner in which the animals are attended to. 

" Everything else being equal, the mortality, as a 
rule, will be the greater the more rapidly the disease is 
spreading from one animal to another, and the more 
abundant the infectious principle. This is easily ex- 
plained. The larger the heard, and the greater the 
number of animals diseased at the same time, the 
greater also is the quantity of the excretions contain- 
ing the swine plague germ; consequently the more 
abundant the means of infection, and the more rapid 
the spreading of the disease within the herd. Again, 
a rapid spreading causes many animals to be affected 
at the same time and thus increases, not only the sum 
total of the number of germs discharged with the ex- 
cretions of the diseased animals, but also the quantity 
of the infectious principle taken up by each individual 
pig. As a consequence, the single attacks become the 
more malignant, and the more malignant the single 
cases the more rapid will be the dissemination of the 
infectious principle and the spreading of the disease. 
" It can and may attack one and the same animal 
twice, and even three times, but if it does, the second 
and third attacks are always mild ones and not apt to 
prove fatal, unless complicated with other diseases. 
As a rule, however, the first attack, provided the ani- 
mal recovers, produces immunity from the effects of a 
subsequent infection, at any rate, for some time, and 
it may be for life. The same seems to destroy fully or 
partially the condition necessary to the development 
of the swine plague germ. Even an interrupted at- 
tack, or, in other words, an infection that has been 



172 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

prevented from causing serious morbid changes, either 
by medical treatment or otherwise, as a rule, seems to 
produce immunity from the effect of a subsequent in- 
fection, the same as a fully developed attack. 

INTESTINE AND LUNG WORMS. 

" In my post mortem examinations I frequently 
found worms in the stomach and intestines, also in the 
bronchial tubes and lungs. But these worms do not 
constitute the cause of swine plague, and their pres- 
ence is merely an accidental complication, well calcu- 
lated, though, to increase the malignancy of the mor- 
bid process, because their presence necessarily weakens 
the constitution of the animal, and thus facilitates the 
operation of the germs. On the other hand, worms 
always thrive better in a diseased or declining organ- 
ism than in a healthy animal. The same of course 
cannot be said of worms found in the bronchial tubes, 
because in every case of swine plague the lungs are 
more or less diseased, and it is difficult to determine 
how much or how little the presence of those worms 
may have contributed to bringing about the morbid 
changes. In parts of the lungs, but little affected by 
the morbid process of swine plague, but affected with 
lung worms, the mucus membrane of the bronchial 
tubes presented a little swelling, or what may be called 
a catarrhal condition." 

THE GERM THEORY. 

The Doctor, in support of his theory, says: " The 
opponents of the so called germ theory of disease, well 
knowing that a complete separation of the germs from 
the animal tissues and fluids is impossible, demand 
absolute proof, without offering any evidence whatever 
in support of their own ' theories ' or even demonstrat- 
ing the existence of anything akin to what they claim 
constitutes the cause and infectious principle of in- 
fectious diseases." 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 173 

As further proof that the swine plague germ and 
nothing else constitutes the infectious principle of 
swine plague, he offers the following, all of which, ex- 
cept the inoculation, I have fully tested and know to 
be correct: First, if one inoculates a well hog with 
the virus of a hog that has the swine plague, it will 
contract the disease, and this virus can be retained for 
quite a while, and favorably cultivated in urine or 
other liquids, and if healthy hogs are inoculated with 
it, it proves fatal. Other animals, especially the rabbit, 
and rats, or mice, can be successfully inoculated and 
die of swine plague. Once affected they may carry 
the disease long distances. Second, if portions of a 
hog which has died of swine plague are fed to a healthy 
hog, it proves fatal, and healthy hogs will contract the 
disease if put in a pen with sick ones, or wiiere sick 
hogs have been kept. This proves that it is infectious 
and contagious. Open sores, wounds, or scratches, 
attract and absorb the infectious principle, if floating 
in the air; hence a hog in this condition is more liable 
to contract the disease than one that has no eruption 
of the skin. Third, in warm weather, and especially 
if wet, the disease spreads from farm to farm much 
faster than in cold weather. Fourth, hogs kept sepa- 
rate and in the open air, will not contract disease as 
quickly as hogs will that are kept in large droves and 
allowed to sleep about old straw stacks, etc., because 
nothing is more apt to absorb the contagious or in- 
fectious principle, and to preserve it longer or more 
effectively than old straw, hay, or manure heaps, com- 
posed mostly of hay or straw; for the contagion that 
is absorbed by or clings to such material will remain 
effective and be a source of spreading the disease for a 
long time. The learned doctor's investigations show 
that hog cholera, swine fever, or what he named "swine 



174 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

plague," though a disease peculiar to swine, can, under 
favorable circumstances, be communicated to other 
animals, and under very favorable circumstances prob- 
ably to human beings. 

The author has satisfied himself that the disease is 
not apt to be communicated by working with diseased 
hogs in any manner, he having been frequently bitten 
when handling them, and he has many times held 
post mortem examinations of hogs that have died of 
cholera when his hands were sore and often raw in 
places without ever experiencing any unpleasant re- 
sults from so doing. 

VITALITY OF THE GERMS. 

Following this, the author will give some extracts 
from Prof. James Law's report, as to how the swine 
plague germ may be stored up and transported from 
one place to another. This will be followed by an ac- 
count of such treatment as recommended by Drs. Law 
and Detmers, as preventive of the disease, and some 
remarks will then be given as to theoretical and prac- 
tical ideas, and then the author's practical treatment. 

The learned Doctor says: "It is evident that we 
must guard more sedulously than ever against the pos- 
sible storing up of the virus of swine plague in con- 
fined spaces where it has little access to air, and above 
all when there is superadded organic matter and 
moisture which may serve to maintain the vitality and 
assist in the propagation of the poison." 

We cannot too severely condemn the current prac- 
tice of allowing pigs to crowd together by scores and 
hundreds in the debris of rotten straw stacks and 
dung heaps, where they lay like sardines in a box, and 
even piled one above the other, closely enveloped in 
the masses of decomposing dung or litter, which not 
only shuts out the pure and wholesome air, but gener- 
ates an abundance of noxious gases to take its place 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 175 

and weaken the system. This doubtless contributes 
much toward laying the system open to the attack of 
whatever germ is imported into the herd. It probably 
does not generate the germ, otherwise the plague would 
be even more prevalent than it is. Yet the resulting 
condition of the blood of the pig, the lack of oxygen, 
and the growth of the virus in this state of the fluid, 
in harmony with the principle we have been consider- 
ing, must enhance its virulence and increase the 
mortality. But it is the intensifying of the poison 
which has passed out of the body which is especially 
to be feared. In deposits from the breath, skin exhal- 
ations, urine, or dung of the pigs, the germ must find 
in the damp and more firmly packed lower layer of 
such refuse, and in the damp, close soil beneath, 
saturated with decomposing organic matter, the best 
field for its preservation and for the conservation or 
increase of its virulence. If the pressure of liquid 
charged with organic matter could be done away with, 
the virus would lack for food and would be more 
readily destroyed. If the air could be freely admitted 
to all parts of the mass and soil, the virus would soon 
perish or be transformed into a harmless material. 
But as it is, this warm bed of the herd supplies the 
conditions which we have found to be essential to the 
preservation of the plague germs and to the increase 
of its potency. In connection with this question it 
should be considered that among our domestic quad- 
rupeds, the pig requires the very largest amount of 
oxygen in proportion to its body-weight. 

CROWDING IN CONFINED SPACES UNDER BARNS. 

"It is very dangerous when hogs crowd together in 
large numbers, in a confined place under barns occu- 
pied by other animals. Here the solid and liquid 
excretions of the stock above pass, to a certain extent, 
through the floor, and thus mixing with the excretions 



176 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

and exhalations of the pigs, accumulate in the con- 
fined area, saturate the ground, and produce constant 
emanations that deteriorate the air and undermine the 
health of the animals that crowd together in the close 
and stagnated atmosphere. Such sleeping places may, 
therefore, be set down with manure heaps and rotten 
straw stacks as propagators, though they may not be 
germinators of the plague. In the present state of the 
swine industry in the western states, the swine plague 
is so wide-spread that the chances are always favorable 
to the entension of the contagion, and no herd, how- 
ever well cared for, can be looked upon as safe; yet the 
danger may be greatly enhanced by such management 
as to surely contribute to the multiplication and 
potency of the germ. 

DRAINS AND LIQUID MANURE PITS. 

So called improvements are often fraught with un- 
seen danger. Sewers serve to spread typhoid fever, 
diptheria and cholera; warm, air-tight barns propa- 
gate pneumonia, consumption and glanders; and closed, 
covered drains, cesspools, liquid manure tanks, or un- 
ventilated spaces beneath the floor of a pig pen, are 
liable to spread hog cholera. If these are indulged in 
they should be properly ventilated by inlets for fresh 
air, and should on no account be opened into a close 
pig pen to befoul its atmosphere. Emanations from 
such close, confined drains and pits are always unsani- 
tary and injurious to animals requiring such abund- 
ance of pure air as do swine, but they must become 
pre-eminently plague pits and passages when once the 
hog cholera germ has been introduced in them. 

"It must be apparent that many of the objections 
to wooden piggeries apply no less to railroad cars. 
The joints and crevices, the accumulation of filth, and 
the absence of all systematic disinfections, the con- 
stant use of the cars for successive loads of swine, and 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 177 

the impossibility of obtaining perfect drying and air- 
ing in the intervals between trips, all combine to make 
these vehicles the bearers and disseminators of conta- 
gion. The absence of air in the masses of accumu- 
lated manure, and in the interstices of the wooden 
floor or wall will even go far towards adding a new 
force and malignancy to the poison that may be intro- 
duced. In boats there is the additional danger of the 
close atmosphere between decks and the bilge-water in 
the hold, attaining increased virulence and malignity 
and spreading a more inveterate type of the malady 
than that from which it was derived. 

WHY SUMMER IS THE MOST DANGEROUS SEASON. 

" Various considerations will show the especial dan- 
ger of summer. In winter the germs cannot multiply, 
being laid up in litter or congenial soil, not dead, but 
inactive, like the dried and stored seed, ready to start 
a new growth and increase when subjected to the 
warmth and moisture of spring and summer. Thus 
it is that the disease often disappears during the winter 
months, but breaks out anew on the return of genial 
weather. In summer the germ in the soil, building, or 
other places, is free to grow and multiply, and buried 
more or less deeply, it is constantly liable to be set free 
by the rooting of the hog. The germs thus rooted up 
from a depth in the soil are likely to be far more dan- 
gerous than those that may have been left on the sur- 
face, having met with little air to produce a salutary 
modification. In summer, too, the hog exposed to the 
scorching rays of the sun is rendered feverish and 
more susceptible to the action of disoase poisons. The 
air that he breathes is much more rarefied and contains 
far less oxygen in a given volume, and thus the purifi- 
cation of the blood is likely to be less perfect than in 
colder weather, and impure blood is more conducive to 
the production of a malignant germ, If the hogs are 



178 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

fed, as is too often the case, even in the extreme heat 
of summer, almost exclusively on Indian corn of the 
preceeding year's crop, this adds its quota of costive- 
ness, intestinal irritation and fever, to favor the disease 
in its worst type. Finally it should not be overlooked 
that the summer is the season of the greatest number 
of hogs, and especially of young hogs that have never 
had the plague, and are therefore especially susceptible 
to its ravages. 

VALUE OF LOOSE, DRY EARTH AS A DISINFECTANT. 

" This appears to depend largely on its antiseptic 
and deodorizing properties. Finely powdered dry 
loam and clay, are direct atiseptics, and have the power 
of absorbing the noxious gases produced by organic de- 
composition and the growth of bacteria. Moreover, 
they are porous in an eminent degree, and transmit 
through their substance a large amount of atmospheric 
air which producss the less obnoxious fermentation. 
Hence in earth closets the disagreeable odor may be 
entirely suppressed. In the case of anthrax carcasses 
the virulence may in time disappear, and in hog 
cholera the same good results can be attained, but it 
must be observed that it is the dry, pulverulent, porous 
earth alone that will act in this way. Moisten it and 
pack it firmly, and its good qualities may be at once 
exchanged for evil ones, and it may become a danger- 
ous propagator in the place of a destroyer of infection. 
Dry earth is not a potent and speedy disinfectant, like 
chloride of zinc, or lime, but will act slowly in this 
way if dry, open, and porous. It may be used in cer- 
tain cases as an auxiliary to other disinfectants, and 
its action is mainly valuable as showing how the por- 
ous dry soils are slowly but permanently destructive to 
such poisons as those of anthrax, chicken cholera, and 
swine plague." 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 179 

BENEFICIAL PREVENTIVES. 

In treating diseased swine that are ailing with the 
genuine hog cholera, swine plague, Drs. Law and 
Detmers say: " First, remove the hogs from all infect- 
ed places and the sick from the well ones; then use as 
disinfectants in the operating yards or pens, chloride 
of lime, chloride of zinc, sulphate of iron, or carbolic 
acid, the latter being considered the best and safest, 
and guard the well hogs with every conceivable pre- 
caution against the introduction of the diseased germs 
through accidental channels, as by other animals or 
fowls carrying the diseased flesh of those that have 
died, or otherwise, as already mentioned. Second, the 
system can be habituated to the poison and fortified 
against it, by a succession of small doses of medicines, 
for if a germ is once introduced, though of mitigated 
fever, it may increase so as to develop to an altogether 
unexpected degree. Third, pains should be taken to 
supply pure air, and surroundings to avoid extremes 
of heat and cold, to give gently-laxative and easily- 
digested food, and to correct any unhealthy condition 
of the functions, above all that of digestion. Finally, 
when all have recovered, disinfections of the premises 
should be conducted in a very thorough manner." 

In reading the extensive writings of these men the 
author learns that they do not, as is understood by 
many, claim that the disease can be checked or cured, 
after it has assumed a malignant form, by the use of 
carbolic acid, but if used in time as a disinfectant and 
with good sonitary measures it is beneficial as a preven- 
tive. This opinion has misled a great many who have 
resorted to the use of carbolic acid as a cure for the so- 
called hog cholera, and, upon failing to effect a cure, 
have unmercifully condemned its use. Carbolic acid, 
if properly used in connection with other drugs, is 
often beneficial when given internally, and always 



180 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

beneficial when used as a disinfectant. There is no 
one drug that can be used effectually with diseased 
hogs, for they are not all affected alike. Therefore it 
requires a combination of drugs which act in harmony 
with each other and upon different parts of the sytem 
to be successful and arrest the disease in its different 
forms. This combination, by long and careful study, 
and practical experience, I claim to have discovered, 
and can conscientiously recommend it to all as a safe 
and reliable remedy. 

The suggestions in regard to careing for hogs, as 
given by the above-named doctors, are very good. 
The drugs they name are useful for disinfecting pur- 
poses, but if given internally they have but little, if 
any, effect, There will be time enough to try to cure 
hog cholera with carbolic acid or any other poisonous 
drug when physicians start out with a camphor bottle 
or asafeoita bag to cure typhoid fever and other fatal 
diseases of the human family. 

THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE. 

People deal largely in theory, ^(e have tons of 
theory upon almost everything. This is the result 
partly of the necessity upon the part of some to say 
something, whether there is any sense in it or not. 
Men are often paid for talking and writing, and the 
machine must run. If they are inspired with a spe- 
cially warm desire to appear to earn their money, they 
will often incubate and hatch a theory which nobody 
else ever thought of, and which, perhaps, it would have 
been well if nobody had ever thought of. They may 
keep on harping upon such a theory until practical 
men adopt it, only to find that it is good for nothing 
and wholly false. These theorists have nothing to lose 
by such failures. They make their profits from theories, 
but the practical operator must make his from success- 
ful work. It is therefore highly desirable to move 



INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 181 

cautiously in the adoption of theories. We often waste 
time in reading a smoothly worded address by some 
professional theorist, who would command much more 
attention from an ordinary audience than many a 
practical man would, who knows more in ten minutes 
than the professional theorist ever knew in his life. It 
is plain facts that the world stands in need of, facts 
that are demonstrated to be such beyond the possi- 
bility of doubt; demonstrated by every-day experience, 
and by the experience of years. 

In agricultural papers, and others, too, and even in 
some veterinary books, there are always to be observed 
two classes of writers, the theoretical and practical. 
Both write, however, as if they were telling just what 
they knew to be true. But it is not difficult to deter- 
mine which is the theoretical and which is the practical. 
The practical writer comes right to the point. It is to 
be observed that in every line he is telling his experi- 
ence. Sometimes what he says is not in the smoothest 
language, but it is worth its weight in gold. Fre- 
quently a practical writer expresses fear that he will 
not be understood, and expresses regret that he has 
ever attempted to write at all. Such a man can never 
fully realize how his effort is appreciated by the pub- 
lic. There is never any trouble in discerning what 
such a writer means. It is the theoretical writer who 
bothers the reader, for there is nothing to go by fre- 
quently, except what the writer says, and if that hap- 
pens to be ambiguous, the dilemma is a serious one. 
C. B. Burleigh says: "Whoever adds to the general 
fund of human knowledge, or explodes an incorrect 
theory, is a public benefactor. Science numbers its 
martyrs by thousands, and the world is better and 
wiser for the lives of men who, with heroic devotion, 
have sacrificed themselves in establishing eternal 
truths. Experiment, though unsuccessful, is never 



182 INVESTIGATIONS BY THE GOVERNMENT. 

worthless. The discipline and example of earnest 
effort are always beneficial; and it has often happened 
in human history that, in following out some steadfast 
purpose, incidental discoveries have been made of 
infinitely more value than those originally sought. 
In fact, a large proportion of scientific discoveries are 
accidental, rather than the result of direct experiment.' 7 
The public delights to have solid experience, and 
that is what the author of this work has kept in mind ? 
and shall, throughout the entire work, aim to exclude 
all theories, or avoid giving such as will be of no value 
to its readers. He will insert nothing but what he 
knows by actual experience or observations has been 
thoroughly tested and practically demonstrated to be of 
value and will prove beneficial to his readers, and 
educate the masses instead of the few. 



CHAPTER XII. 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE, 



Introduction — Hog Cholera— General Instructions— When Medi- 
cine Fails— Separation and Grading of the Sick— Exercise and 
Air — The Best Way to Prepare the Feed — As a Preventive- 
Treatment for General Use — How to Drench Hogs — How to 
Give Injections— External Applications — Treatment of Sows 
With Pig— Incurable Cases— Why My Treatment is a Success* 




INTRODUCTION. 

t HE following treatise on diseased hogs and 
poultry is based upon practical knowledge and 
scientific principles, the result of careful study, 
experience, and practice in the field by the author 
from 1878 to 1887. The marked progress made by me 
during the past four years in the practice of treating 
diseased swine, and the demand for more information 
upon this subject from my numerous patrons renders 
a new volume indispensably necessary; not that the 
principles of my medical practice have been materially 
changed, but greatly improved upon and simplified. 
Having made some new and valuable discoveries, both 
in medical compounds and modes of treating the dif- 
ferent diseases of swine, I will in this edition give the 
added experience of those years of constant labor and 
observation in my only and chosen profession ; and in 
presenting my works to the public, I feel confident 
that if the rules herein given are carefully carried out, 



184 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

that any diseased lot of hogs can be saved, and the 
disease entirely eradicated or prevented on any farm 
or in any neighborhood. 

In the treatment of the diseases of swine it is im- 
portant to remember that the location of the internal 
organs are nearly the same in the hog as in man, and 
about the same treatment should be followed as far as 
practical. In both cases prevention is of utmost im- 
portance, and any treatment of swine plague to be 
practical must afford a reliable preventive. This I 
have kept. in mind, and do not pretend to both cure 
and prevent the diseases of swine with the same 
remedy, but my improved formulas give particular 
remedies for both, and I explain the different symp- 
toms and name the drugs and amount of each so that 
any one can treat diseased hogs or use the preventive 
intelligently and successfully. 

Although I do not use the common drugs which are 
used in most proprietary medicines, or by farmers who 
have recipes of their own, such as copperas, sulphur, 
red pepper, Venetian red, ginger, saltpetre, calomel, or 
arsenic, and these, or a part of them mixed in oil cake, 
meal, shorts or coal oil; yet the drugs which I do use 
are as easily handled as those named. My mode of 
administering medicine to swine, in fact, the only suc- 
cessfull way, is to mix it with their drink or wet feed. 
Being less manageable than any other stock they ob- 
stinately resist all at tempts at coercion, and drenching 
is rarely practicable, and caution and great care should 
be observed by the inexperienced in administering 
medicine in that way. If hogs are too far gone to eat 
or drink, the chances of recovery are against them, but 
by careful treatment even in this stage of the disease, 
they can very often be saved. In my treatment, as to 
the management and the administering of the medi- 
cine, I shall endeavor to be so plain and practical that 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 185 

any person can readily understand it, and by its prac- 
tice make the treating of diseased swine a success. 

This treatise has been thoroughly tested by many 
of the best, breeders and feeders of Ohio and other 
States, riot only as a cure and preventive for the many 
local diseases, but as a cure and preventive for the 
swine plague in its most malignant and contagious 
form. It bears their unqualified endorsement. The 
testimonials used by me in any way are all bona fide, 
and from persons of good standing in their respective 
communities or professions. 

HOG CHOLERA. 

I will first mention the three most fatal diseases 
known to swine, and their symptoms, and commonly 
known all over the country as hog cholera. These are 
genuine cholera, swine or typhoid fever and typhoid 
pneumonia. With cholera the symptoms are vomit- 
ing and purging, and attacks by severe cramps, as 
with colic. Those thus attacked generally refuse to 
eat, but frequently the appetite remains good until 
death, which occurs within a shorter period of time 
than with any other disease. With typhoid fever the 
symptoms are lameness, sluggishness or unthriftiness, 
with disposition to keep the nest, being cold and 
chilly, with a high fever, and excessive thirst and loss 
of appetite, scanty high colored urine, constipation, 
and frequently diarrhoea, swollen ears, and a rapid 
emaciation. With typhoid pneumonia these symp- 
toms are accompanied by severe coughing. When 
hogs are afflicted with any of the above named diseases 
their treatment is about the same, which I will now 
describe. 

First, I will give the directions for handling and 
treating hogs, which can be adapted to any number; 
either where the trouble is only local, or where they 
have contracted a malignant type of disease, to be suc_ 



186 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

cessful, the directions should be carefully read and fol- 
lowed as closely as possible. 

DIRECTIONS FOR GENERAL TREATMENT. 

As soon as it is observed that hogs are not doing 
well, they must be attended to at once; to delay a day 
or so with them, the same as with other sick stock, mav 
prove too late. First, observe, closely the condition of 
the hogs, whether the symptoms show constipation or 
diarrhoea in a bad form or not; also, if they are troubled 
with a cough, and if you can attribute their sickness to 
any particular local cause. Thus, by close observation, 
very often the trouble can be removed with but little 
expense and labor. As so much has been said before 
this about what may produce sickness with swine, I 
will only name here a few things that may be the 
cause, which may assist the owner or handler of the 
hogs in discovering the cause and removing it. First, 
a violent change or an excessive amount of food of any 
kind. Second, the use of old dry corn alone, or on 
dry grasses. Third, grasses alone, especially clover. 
Fourth, scanty feeding, or the use of stagnant, ice or 
snow water. Fifth, turning in wheat fields and allow- 
ing them to eat too much dry wheat. Sixth, the ex- 
cessive use of stone coal or feeding them on black 
ground. Seventh, turning hogs on a luxuriant field of 
second-growth clover, especially in a warm, wet time. 
Eighth, allowing them to sleep in old rotten or chaffy 
loose straw or manure heaps, where they are liable to 
get too warm, or compelling them to sleep out in cold 
weather, thus chilling the blood. Any of these causes 
will produce sickness, either in a mild or malignant 
type. Very often, when the trouble is discovered while 
yet in its mild form, it is easily removed by prompt 
treatment and change of food. When the hogs are in 
a constipated and feverish condition, it can be re- 
moved by the use of laxative food and the medicine as 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 187 

described in this treatment for sick hogs. This, given 
in sloppy or wet bran, mill feed, ground oats or 
barley, will soon remove all constipated or feverish 
condition of the animal. This treatment can be made 
to act more quickly by feeding some green corn, 
pumpkins, roots, or turning them on fresh grass after 
the dew is off. If turned on before the dew is off, they 
are liable to imbibe into the stomach with the grass 
the swine germs that may be deposited on the grass 
with the dew, and thus increase the trouble. In case 
the disease has taken the other form, and diarrhoea is 
the trouble, it can be checked by the use of the 
same medicine; but it acts better by using shorts or 
rich middlings with which to make the swill. Confin- 
ing the hogs in a dry lot or field when treating them 
is best, especially over night or in wet weather. This 
same treatment never fails to remove all trouble aris- 
ing from worms or any ordinary cough. 

WHEN MEDICINES FAIL. 

When sanitary means are neglected, any medical 
treatment will fail. When hogs are allowed to pile up 
in straw or bed in manure, either in or out of the 
stable, it is not worth while to give them any medi- 
cine, and disinfectants are of no avail. That cause 
must be removed. And the same is the case where 
the hogs have no shelter in the winter, and their beds 
have become foul, damp and packed; they must either 
be renovated or the hogs removed. In the first place, 
when sickness is observed among the hogs, it is best to 
remove them to another place immediately, so as to 
get them away from their old beds, etc., especially 
those that are not sick. When this cannot be done, 
remove the old bedding by pulling it away or spread- 
ing it out, and give them new bedding if necessary, 
and do not allow them to pile up in loose straw or 
manure. They get too warm and contract cold, thus 



188 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

increasing the disease. This, of course, is all the more 
necessary when the hogs are afflicted with a malignant 
form of the disease, or in cold weather. 

SEPARATION AND GRADING OF THF SICK. 

This is something that must be strictly observed. 
Separate all the ailing hogs from the well ones, and 
put them where they can be cared for. They should 
be graded into two or more lots; that is, put the 
smaller or weaker ones by themselves, so they can 
drink. When this is not done, the larger or stronger 
ones will push them away from the feed. This should 
be attended to at the start, for if they miss a feed or 
two, it often happens that they cannot be induced to 
drink after that. Success depends a great deal on how 
carefully they are sorted or fed. They must have at- 
tention, and especially when there are many hogs and 
the disease has assumed a malignant form. Better 
take out some that show no signs of disease than to 
leave in one that does, for it will surely inoculate 
others. Put the sick in a dry and comfortable lot 
where they cannot get water. By this means they will 
become thirsty and can be induced to drink what is 
given them. See that they have sufficient shelter to 
protect them from the cold storms of winter. A 
change from warm weather to cold is very bad for 
them, especially if wet, and in the summer they should 
have shade, so that they can get out of the hot sun; if 
not they will lie in it so long as to perish. In a very 
hot and dry time they will have to be looked after 
often on this account. A lot where they can exercise 
is better than a close pen. An orchard, wood or grass 
lot is often the most convenient and best place to put 
them, except in cold or bad weather, when it may be 
necessary to put them in pens, so as to give them the 
necessary attention. This is something to which I 
wish to call the attention of all who use my treatment. 



TKEATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 189 

Never undertake to treat sick hogs in a close pen, 
especially in warm weather. 

EXEECISE AND AIR. 

In order to have hogs do well they must have exer- 
cise and air, and if the lots are too small, they will lie 
down too much, and should be turned out in a field so 
that they can run around or be driven about some 
every day, for the following reasons : First, it not only 
has a tendency to cause the contents of the bowels and 
the urine to move off more freely, which is very essen- 
tial with those in a constipated or feverish condition, 
but better distributes their passages so they do not 
come in contact with them. It is the poison that 
passes off through the bowels and urine that is to be 
most feared and avoided; not only with swine, but 
with the human family, when afflicted with a malig- 
nant type of disease, such as cholera, typhoid or yel- 
low fever, etc. These poisonous discharges distributed 
in small quantities over the ground and exposed to 
the air soon lose their poisonous qualities, but if al- 
lowed to accumulate in any way, and especially when 
they are mixed with the bedding or dry litter, such as 
old straw or straw manure, they will retain their vigor 
for some time. Second, the exercise gives them a 
chance to graze, or increase their appetite, and they 
are more liable to eat and drink what is given them. 
Third they have a chance to root and bed in the fresh 
earth, and that and the fresh air has a tendency to 
help remove the fever. But if confined in a close pen 
especially in warm weather, where the fresh air cannot 
have free circulation, and they are compelled to breathe 
the hot, poisonous air, and come in constant contact 
with their poisonous discharges, the chances are that 
they will die. 

It should be mentioned that all diseased hogs 
which have rings in their noses should have them cut 



190 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

out at once, as the nose is liable to become very sore, 
and the rings interfere with their eating or rooting. 
But in taking out the rings, care should be taken not 
to worry them much, as it may kill them. In taking 
them out use a pair of sharp pincers to cut them in 
two. When the hogs are confined in pens, the pens 
should be thoroughly cleaned every day and sprinkled 
with water mixed with carbolic acid as a disinfectant, 
using two tablespoonfuls of acid to one gallon of water; 
or use lime, or lime and charcoal together, for the same 
purpose. 

Those which show no sighs of sickness, or still eat 
and drink well, can be put in lots or fields and treated 
as directed. Yet, all must be treated, for when once 
the disease has started in a herd of hogs, it will con- 
tinue to spread unless something is done to check it. 
When there are other hogs on the same farm or ad- 
joining farms, and they are not looked after and 
properly cared for, they are liable to contract the dis- 
ease. But, if good sanitary means are used, in con- 
nection with the Tonic Powder that I prescribe, the 
disease can be controlled and confined to a few hogs, 
or a small scope of country. In caring for sick and 
well hogs, the well ones should be cared for first, and 
never go direct from the sick ones to the well ones, 
especially in warm, wet weather, as some of the excre- 
tions of the sick may in that way be carried to the 
well, and thus cause them to become diseased. 

THE NEXT THING TO BE DONE. 

After the hogs are properly sorted and put in their 
respective lots or pens, it is best to let them go twenty- 
four hours without food or drink, unless the weather is 
very warm, when they may have some water with 
soda, copperas, lime, or carbolic acid in it as hereafter 
directed. By confining the hogs thus, they become 
hungry and thirsty, and can be compelled to take the 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 191 




medicine more readily, and it will act quicker and 
better on an empty stomach than a full one. Mean- 
time see that there are plenty of troughs in which to 
give them food or drink. These should not be too 
large, so as to interfere with their drinking. Have 
plenty of them and keep them clean. For this pur- 
pose there is nothing better than six inch fencing 
boards, edged together with end pieces. These can be 
of any length desired, and will be light to lift about 
from one pen to another, or can be taken back and 
forth from any part of the farm by a team, in order to 
treat two or more lots of hogs. 

THE BEST WAY TO PREPARE FEED. 

When there are very many hogs to be fed, it is best 
to prepare a barrel of swill at a time, as it will take a 
barrel or more to feed them, when they are in large 
droves, and if it is not all used at once it will not spoil 
until the next feed, or for a day or two, in cool 
weather. When it is prepared in this way it can be 
made of the same strength better than if mixed in 
small quantities and by different persons each time, as 
often occurs. A barrel of swill will feed from seventy 
to one hundred and twenty hogs, depending upon their 
size and the fatality of disease, etc. Hogs which are 
very costive will require more swill than those which 
are not, and large hogs more than small ones. This 
will have to be governed by the feeder. After the 



192 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

medicine has begun to take effect, no more should be 
given than enough to keep the bowels in a normal 
state. 

To make a forty-five gallon barrel of swill, take two 
bushels of bran, mill feed, ground oats or barley; put 
it in the barrel, then add six pounds or pints, of my 
cholera remedy, then fill the barrel with milk, slops or 
water, and add no more liquid until the whole is used. 
Stir the swill well while feeding, and feed only what 
the hogs will drink, twice a day; in most cases, 
especially in warm weather, they should be fed three 
times a day. Do not keep it by them. Three gallons 
is enough for five or more hogs, according to size. 
When the hogs do not drink all the swill, take it away 
and turn the troughs over so as to clean them. In 
order to get the hogs to drink the swill, it is sometimes 
necessary to sprinkle salt, bran, oats or meat crack- 
lings in the troughs, all of which are good and bene- 
ficial. Be sure that the hogs are all up around the 
troughs when fed, so that they all drink. Success de- 
pends a great deal on this; when they will not drink 
they must be drenched. (See directions for drenching.) 
Diseased hogs should be kept under treatment from 
five days to two weeks, according to fatality of disease. 
Sometimes they recover very quickly if properly cared 
for, and at other times more slowly, the same as with 
any sick animal; and for this reason it is best not to 
despair and quit because they do not get well in a day 
or two. As they begin to improve, any kind of light 
food is good to feed them. It is very easy to tell when 
they begin to improve, as the urine will be more 
abundant and clear, and their discharges soft and reg- 
ular. In using this medicine for sick hogs, allow no 
water or corn for four or five days, and but little corn 
for a few days after a cure is effected. This, again, is 
something that must be strictly observed; do not feed 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 193 

sick hogs corn while under treatment, especially old 
corn. It seems natural for all feeders to want to feed 
corn if the hogs will eat it, and with this one thing I 
have more to contend than anything else. New corn 
is not so bad, because it is not so heating or hard to 
digest. Sometimes I put shelled corn into the swill 
barrel and let it soak. This is good after the hogs have 
begun to show some improvement, and is very good to 
entice them to eat; so are oats and meat cracklins 

AS A PREVENTIVE, TO BE FED AFTER THE SICK ONES 
HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT. 

In feeding large herds, where it is not convenient 
to feed the swill, use the same medicine, one pint in 
one-half bushel of wet bran, which is enough for 
twenty or thirty head, and feed twice a day for three 
days. This will act upon the entire system and check 
the disease. It will be found the most reliable and 
cheapest remedy that can be used as a preventive, 
where they have been exposed to the disease, and the 
swill cannot be given. But it is better to give the swill 
as directed, to all the hogs, than to do any other way, 
as they get the medicine better. In the use of corn 
(at all times when feeding the medicine) feed lightly 
for a few days where the hogs have been exposed to 
disease. 

TREATMENT FOR GENERAL USE. 

This treatment is intended for all the ordinary dis- 
eases known to hogs, and can be relied upon, as it is a 
powerful blood purifier, and also acts as a diarrhetic. 
It prevents inflammation or ulceration of the intes- 
tines, breaks the fever, regulates the bowels, and de- 
stroys all intestine worms, thus relieving or curing the 
patient. 

Six pounds or pints of the Cholera Remedy is 
just right for a barrel of swill of forty -five gallons, 
for ordinarily diseased hogs for general use, or as a 



194 TKEATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

preventive, when hogs have been exposed to disease. 
But it is necessary sometimes to make a change in it 
to suit more mild or more severe cases, as follows: If 
for pigs, use one pint less, but for large hogs which 
are very costive or badly diseased, it should be made 
stronger, for it will act more quickly and better. 

Sometimes very sick hogs, or pigs refuse to drink 
the swill made as described. If they do put them and 
those which have the diarrhoea by themselves, and use 
my Tonic Powder, one pint to ten gallons of swill. 
This they will take better, and it is reliable, especially 
in all cases of diarrhoea, as it is an absorbent, and im- 
proves the consistence of the stools; it is good in the 
case of gasses on the stomach, as it abates the pain 
and sickness. It is also a disinfectant, appetizer, and 
aids digestion. In using either medicine, avoid the 
use of corn meal in the swill; use bran, shorts, or mid- 
lings, two bushels to a barrel. 

Hogs or pigs which have the diarrhoea can be treat- 
ed very successfully in this way: Take sweet milk, let 
it come to boiling heat; in two gallons of this milk 
put one-half pint of my tonic powder. This is the 
best treatment for pigs ailing with scours (cholera in- 
fantum,) that can be given. If they are all still suck- 
ing the sow, give the swill to her also. But the pre- 
pared milk is not necessary for her, unless the pigs are 
very young. If the sow is not showing any signs of 
disease one feed a day for two or three days will do for 
her. But the pigs or very sick hogs that this milk 
preparation is made for, should have it twice or three 
times a day for a few days as the case may require. 
If swine which are being fed on warm feed in the sum- 
mer, get sick, the swill that is given them should be 
fed cold. In winter the swill is best made blood warm. 






TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 195 

HOW TO DRENCH A HOG. 

In extreme cases it may be necessary to drench, 
but it should be avoided if possible, and should be 
done with great care, as an over-exertion will very 
often kill the hogs. They should be put in a close 
place where they can be handled with care, and should 
not be run or dogged, as it is liable to kill them. Then 
take a piece of small rope, stand beside or across the 
hog, put the rope in its mouth, and hold its head well 
up; give it only what it can swallow with ease, and be 
careful not to give anything while it is squealing, for 
the medicine will go into its wind pipe and kill it. 

In drenching, the use of an old soft shoe is very 
good. Gut a hole in the toe of the shoe, then put the 
toe in the hog's mouth and pour the mixture in the 
mouth of the shoe; in this way the hog can keep its 
mouth shut so it can swallow, and it is not so liable to 
squeal. For a constipated hog that will weigh one 
hundred pounds, in one half pint of sweet milk or oil 
put one tablespoonful of the cholera remedy. Increase 
the amount according to size of the hog; give once, 
and if it still refuses to drink the swill, give the sec- 
ond time, which is as often as I ever found it nec- 
essary, until they would drink the swill, as described 
for sick hogs or general use, which should be given for 
a week or more, in order to cleanse their blood and 
system. In case the hog has diarrhoea use less 
medicine. 

HOW TO GIVE INJECTIONS. 

It is necessary at times, in case of extreme costive- 
ness to use injections in order to save an animal. This 
is the case with hogs as well as other animals. Very 
often a hog's life can be saved in this way, and it may 
not take but a few minutes to complete the operation. 
It can often be done by one person, but in most cases 
it requires an assistant. Put the hog in a close place 



196 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

where it can be handled quietly. Then the assistant, 
by the use of a wide board, can confine the hog to one 
side of the enclosure. The injection can now be easily 
given by the use of a syringe. Use soap suds and a 
small amount of turpentine, (a teaspoonful to one-half 
gallon of suds.) Avoid all violence, as any worry may 
kill the animal. In this way several hogs may be 
given injections in a very short time, when otherwise 
they would die. 

EXTERNAL APPLICATIONS. 

The use of external applications, properly applied, 
are just as necessary in the treatment of swine as they 
are in the treatment of other domestic animals or the 
human family, to produce counter-irritations, or by 
their cooling effects, to help to remove pain and fever, 
and relieve the suffering patient. Those I herein de- 
scribe are cheap, easy to make and use, and their 
effects are beneficial. For sick hogs that are feverish, 
mangy or lousy, take one gallon of coal oil, one gallon 
of lard, two tablespoonfuls of carbolic acid, mix, make 
warm and grease the hogs well with it. When there 
are several hogs, they can be closely confined in a scale 
pen or any small inclosure, and the mixture put in a 
sprinkling-can and applied that way. This will re- 
move all mange, scurf or lice, cleanse and heal sores, 
and assist greatly in removing fever. This preparation 
should be applied to every lot of diseased hogs when 
put under treatment, and if necessary, repeated. It is 
good to use on swine when castrating them ; I consider 
it better than tar; it will also remove any scurf or itch 
with horses, cattle or sheep, lice on any domestic stock, 
or scurf on fowls, and is valuable to grease the heads 
and throats of fowls with when they are sick, especi- 
ally with roup. In using this preparation on any- 
thing but hogs, it must be used carefully — just enough 
to dampen the affected parts. 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 197 

In order to remove lice on cattle, fowls or hogs, 
leave out the carbolic acid; the coal oil and lard will 
do just as well. With fowls, grease them under the 
wings and about the head and throat. With cattle, 
grease them clear around the neck, and along the back 
to the tail, also in the flanks; this will soon remove all 
the lice. But in order to keep them off, good attention 
should be given to their surroundings. Their stables, 
houses or pens should be thorougly cleaned and white- 
washed. If some carbolic acid is put in the whitewash 
it is good as a disinfectant. 

Rheumatism liniment: Made by taking — 

Turpentine, three ounces; 

Ammonia, three ounces; 

Gum camphor, two ounces; 

Chloform, one ounce; 

Opium, one ounce; 

Arnica oil, one ounce; 

Tincture of cayenne peper, six ounces; 

Coal oil, one-half gallon. 

Mix and always shake well when using. When 
this liniment is wanted, it is best to copy it off and 
have some druggist put it up, so as to avoid any mis- 
takes, or at least the first seven articles; the coal oil 
can be added at home. This is an excellent remedy to 
remove any trouble arising from kidney disease, par- 
alysis, lung or throat trouble, rheumatic or neuralgic 
pains, either with stock or the human family. Its 
penetrating powers are wonderful. 

Carbolic acid, copperas or soda: These dissolved in 
water and used to wash or sprinkle the hogs with in 
the summer time, when very warm, are beneficial 
remedies. One pound of copperas or soda, dissolved 
in four gallons of water, or two tablespoonfuls of car- 
bolic acid in the same amount of water, is the right 
strength for a wash. These, when well applied, have 
a great tendency to remove fever; also the same is true 
when they are administered internally; when given as 



198 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

a drink, it should not be more than one-half as strong 
as when used as a wash. 

A TONIC POWDER AS A PREVENTIVE. 

As a fattening agency, or a tonic powder, as a pre- 
ventive against disease, to be used at all times to keep 
the hogs in good health, and make them thrive fast, 
use my tonic powder, one pint in one half bushel of wet 
bran or ground grain of any kind, except corn meal. 
This is enough for twenty o* thirty hogs at a time, and 
should be given once or twice a week, or as their con- 
dition may required it. It should always be used when 
commencing to feed corn at any time, or on a new herd 
of hogs which are brought on the farm, so as to guard 
against disease. A small expense at the first indica- 
tion of disease, or as a preventive, will save hundreds 
of dollars in the end. This mixture, will be found in- 
valuable to use with hogs at all times, especially when 
they are running on a dry or stubble pasture, or black 
mucky ground, and also when on a heavy growth of 
matured clover, or when being fed on dry corn, either 
of which is liable to cause constipation or sickness. 
They should receive it regularly once or twice a week. 
In feeding large herds the mixture can be made in a 
box, and then put in barrels, and taken out in the field 
with a team, the hogs all called up and then fed on 
the ground. In feeding it in this way it should be put 
out quickly, so they all get it. I have fed some three 
hundred hogs at a time in this way with good success. 

This tonic powder will keep them in a high state of 
health and make them thrive very fast, especially where 
they are being highly fed, or running on mast the lat- 
ter part of winter or in the spring; mast is then very 
dangerous, especially jack oak (red oak) acorns. But 
where hogs have been exposed to disease, or are dis- 
eased, use the cholera remedy, and use in swill at all 
times if possible. 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 192 

TREATMENT OF SOWS WITH PIG. 

For diseased sows that are with pig use the cholera 
remedy, one half-pint to four gallons of sweet milk or 
any good slops. This will prevent abortion, and is 
good to give to sows a few days before and after farrow- 
ing; it will keep them from eating their pigs. This 
mixture is a powerful anti-spasmodic, and will prevent 
convulsions of various kinds, spasms of the stomach? 
bowels, etc. It is also cooling and allays fever and 
prevents constipation, which causes sows to eat their 
young; it is hard to break them of this habit if once 
learned. In fact the only sure cure for an old habitual 
pig or chicken eater is the butchers' block. 

Diseased sows which are with pig will have to re. 
ceive good attention, and in time to prevent them from 
losing their pigs, for when once they are badly diseased 
they are almost sure to lose them, and often do so when 
under treatment. This has lead some to believe that 
it was caused by the medicine, but such is not the case. 
The medicine used as directed will not do any harm, 
unless an overdose is given, when it may make them 
quite sick for a few hours, but they will soon recover. 
Sows that are half gone or more with pig should be 
kept away from other hogs. They are very often in- 
jured by being overlayed, or otherwise, and in that way 
lose their pigs. 

Where hogs are confined in close, small quarters, it 
is important that some absorbent be provided. Straw 
is objectionable, as it wears out quickly, and becomes 
damp and foul. Hogs are apt to become overheated 
at night on account of their crowding propensities. 
When litter of any kind is provided, the danger is 
greatly increased. Straw is one of the poorest con- 
ductors of animal heat that is known, and as a 
consequence, its use for littering is highly objection- 
able. Leaves or corn fodder are better than straw 



200 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

when litter of any kind is used, as it does not become 
so foul and warm. Dr. Law says: " Dry earth is bet- 
ter absorbent than anything else, and conveys away 
animal heat, although not so rapidly as to chill the 
animal." This is one reason why I recommend out 
door treatment for sick hogs at all times, when the 
weather will permit it, as the hogs will root up the 
ground to form a bed, and sleep in the dry or fresh 
earth, which has a great tendency to reduce the fever. 
Then again, they can be kept cleaner and separate, and 
do not come in contact so much with one another or 
with their poisonous discharges; and they also have 
the benefit of the fresh air, or in cool weather, the 
warm sun. 

SUMMARY OF DIRECTIONS. 

The directions for treating hogs in large numbers 
having been extended in order to be more plain and to 
give the reasons why such treatment is used, it may 
be well to repeat the directions for the different medi- 
cines used. 

For sick hogs use my cholera remedy; 6 pounds or 
pints to 45 gallons of swill. To make this swill use 
bran, mill feed, ground oats or oil-cake meal, (never 
use corn meal) and feed only what the hogs will eat 
at each feed, twice or three times a day. Keep the 
troughs clean by washing them out with water and 
carbolic acid or coperas. 

As a tonic or preventive for general use, use my 
tonic powder, which will keep the hogs healthy and 
cause them to fatten very fast. This is also very bene- 
ficial to use with ailing pigs, as it is not as strong as 
the other, and they will take it more readily. 

INCURABLE CASES. 

In treating swine, as well as any other domestic 
stock, especially when in large droves, and when the 
disease has assumed a malignant form and they have 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 201 

been allowed to run for some time without treatment, 
there are almost always some incurable cases. And 
anyone claiming a specific " cure all," for hog cholera 
or swine fever, cannot be too severely condemned. 
Such a claim should prove to any one, who stops to 
think, even for a moment, that such treatment is a 
humbug. As long as we have no specifics for the cure 
of the diseases of the human family which we have 
every means of treating promptly, why should we ex- 
pect it for so fatal a disease as hog cholera or swine 
fever. These fatal diseases with swine can be told by 
the following symptoms, which even under good sani- 
tary or medical treatment, unless promptly attended 
to, seldom recover. First, severe constipation, accom- 
panied by high fever, rapid emaciation, lameness, and 
often sloughing off of the ears and other portions of 
the body. These are symptoms of typhoid fever. 
With typhoid pneumonia, these are accompanied by 
a severe cough, and when once either disease has as- 
sumed such a form that chronic diarrhoea sets in, and 
the ears and the body become cold to the touch, then 
the case will prove fatal. This is also the case when 
blue, purple or red spots appear under the throat, chest 
or belly. This shows that inflammation of the lungs 
or bowels, or both have set in, and the case is most 
always hopeless. The same may be said of those 
patients which bleed at the nose and ears, or have 
bloody passages. This is caused by hemorrhage, by 
the bursting of the tissue linings of some of the vital 
organs, bowels or intestines. Frequently the disease 
assumes a gangrenous form and settles in the limbs, 
and often one or more slough off, especially the feet. 
They will live in this way sometimes a long while and 
frequently recover, but never do any good. They are 
a loss to their owner and had better be killed. What 
may be termed cholera, with vomiting, purging and 



202 TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 

severe cramps, as if attacked with colic, will soon prove 
fatal if not well treated. When the patients survive a 
lew days, they may be, and frequently are, affected as 
before, described. Any of these fatal diseases are 
known under the name of hog cholera, swine fever, or 
swine plague, and in treating them not only must the 
best of medical means be used, but the best of sanitary 
means. When this is done, and in time, before the 
disease has assumed a malignant form, almost all the 
hogs can be saved. In treating any herd, even when 
afflicted in the most violent form, if well cared for, the 
most of them can be saved, and the disease kept from 
spreading, Therefore it is much better to treat them 
than to let them all die, or to ship them to market to 
be eaten by our fellowmen. 

WHY MY TREATMENT IS A SUCCESS. 

Very frequently in talking with farmers and pro- 
fessional men, they will say, " If the l germ theory ' is 
correct, anything that would be given the hog that 
would kill the germ, would kill the hog." This is no 
doubt true to a certain extent. But I do not claim 
that the medicine I use destroys the life of the germs 
directly, but what I do claim is that swine affected 
with swine fever, known as hog cholera or swine 
plague, can be given medicine that will so affect the 
system as to check and prevent the propagation or 
multiplication of the germs, and have such an effect 
upon the bowels and urinary organs as to cause the 
poisonous germs to be passed off through these chan- 
nels; and these poisonous discharges, exposed to the 
air, soon lose their poisonous effects. Therefore, when 
treating in the open air, and especially when the hogs 
are allowed some range so that they do not come in 
such close and constant contact with their passages, 
the disease can be checked and cured. 



TREATISE ON DISEASED SWINE. 203 

The main points in treating any diseased animals 
are first to know what ails them; then be sure that 
the medicine that is given them will have the desired 
effect to assist nature in casting off the disease. After 
much experience in treating hogs, I have discovered 
reliable remedies for the cure and preventive of 
cholera, and have used them in my practice with 
marked success. I do not claim that this is the only 
treatment that will cure diseased hogs of hog cholera, 
but it is the only reliable one that has ever come 
under my observation, and is the most practical treat- 
ment I have ever seen published; I hope it will be the 
means of saving the swine of not a few farmers. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE AND THEIR 
TREATMENT. 



Local Diseases of Swine — Thumps— Pneumonia — Diphtheria — 
Kidney Disease— Inflamation of the Brain — Founder and Rheuma- 
tism—Catarrh—Piles—Worms—Sweating and Scours— Blood 
PoiSON — Mange and Lice — Black Teeth — Frosted Hogs— Pre- 
vention Better Than Cure. 




LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

SIDE from cholera and swine fever, swine are 
subject to many diseases more local in their 
character, but they may prove fatal if not 
well treated in time. In describing these local dis- 
eases and their treatment, I shall endeavor to be as 
brief and plain as possible, giving the symptoms so 
that the general reader can interpret and understand 
them and make the treatment of these diseases a suc- 
cess. In referring to the different kinds of diseases, I 
will give the names commonly known to farmers and 
stock men as well as the scientific names. 

THUMPS OR PALPITATION OF THE HEART. 

Occurs very frequcnty with pigs or young fat hogs, 
and is often caused by an accumulation of fat around 
the heart or lungs, which interferes with the action of 
these organs. Weak and deficient hogs, resulting from 
inbreeding too closely or breeding from inferior stock, 
are more subject to it than more vigorous ones. 
Thumps is also caused by colds, resulting in conges- 
tion of the lungs. To be cured this disease must have 



LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 205 

prompt attention and good treatment. The character- 
istic symptom is rapid and laborious breathing, like an 
over-excited animal. Treatment: Give one-half of a 
teaspoonful of tartar emetic on the tongue once or 
twice a day, or, if it is a large hog, give a teaspoonful. 
It will check the excessive action of the heart (which 
produces the noise from which originated the name 
thumps). Then bathe the chest and sides over the 
heart and lungs with the rheumatic liniment, or coal 
oil and turpentine, equal parts. 

LUNG FEVER PNEUMONIA. 

This is a common, dangerous and acute lung disease 
and commonly called lung fever. It is caused by the 
animal contracting cold, and by the blood being im- 
poverished, and by the non-removal of the natural acids 
by the liver and kidneys. Pneumonia is always proof 
of diseased kidneys and liver. Indeed this is true of 
many other lung disorders. Symptoms : It commences 
with a severe chill and fever, accompanied by a deep, 
hoarse cough, and difficult, locomotion seeming to be 
a weakness in the back. Treatment, the same as for 
thumps. Or where there are very many hogs use my 
cholera remedy as directed, and sprinkle them well 
with lard, coal oil and turpentine, using lard, 1 part, 
coal oil, 1 part, turpentine \ part. Give them soft, 
laxative food, and good dry and warm quarters. Re- 
member that swine afflicted with any lung trouble 
must be kept warm and dry, and their beds not allow- 
ed to become foul and damp. Lung diseases are very 
prevalent in the winter, and very hard to cure on ac- 
count of the cold and changeable weather and the want 
of suitable quarters. 

STRANGLES, SORE THROAT, QUINSY, DIPTHERIA. 

Diptheria with swine is known by all of these 
names, and can first be observed by the difficult 



206 LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

breathing and swallowing. The thro?t becomes sore 
and swollen, and in the more advanced stages in a 
diptheria form, the animal often sits upon its haunches 
like a dog in order to breathe, and frequently strangles 
and dies in that position. Very often this disease 
becomes epidemic, similar to distemper or epizootic 
with young horses, and proves fatal. It is in a certain 
degree contagious; that is, by coming in contact with 
the shreds coughed up by the diseased ones, well hogs 
will take the disease as readily as it is communicated 
by the human family, and owing to this, in its fatal 
type, it is frequently mistaken for cholera. It is 
caused by sudden changes of atmosphere. Allowing 
hogs to pile up in straw-stacks, manure heaps and 
other warm places during cold weather is one of the 
most fruitful causes of this disease. When they are 
allowed to pile up in such places, upon coming out, 
especially on a cold morning, the cold air strikes them, 
and any one must know that such sudden changes will 
produce this or some other more fatal disease, and 
especially with pigs or young hogs. 

Treatment: Separate the sick from the well ones, 
divide them up into small lots, and give them good, 
dry quarters. With those that are very sick give each 
one once or twice a day, as a gargle, a tablespoonful of 
powdered sulphur in water, and bathe the throat and 
chest well with the rheumatic liniment, or turpentine 
and coal oil, equal parts. Those that are not diseased 
should not be allowed to run with the sick, but should 
be' kept separate, and if they are all given my tonic 
powder it will be found very beneficial and put the 
system in a healthy condition. 

KIDNEY DISEASE PARALYSIS OF HIND QUARTERS. 

With this disease hogs become weak in the back, 
the hind parts will wriggle about, and finally the 
animal will sit down on its haunches; after some 



LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 207 

effort it will get up again and run rapidly straight 
ahead for some distance, then swing to one side awhile 
and then go to the other side, and finally get down and 
be unable to rise again, and drag its hind parts about 
until death occurs, which is almost sure to follow 
unless relief is given. Treatment: Give on tongue a 
teaspoonful of tartar emetic once or twice a day for a 
few days, and use freely the rheumatic liniment. 

BLIND STAGGERS INFLAMATION OF THE BRAIN. 

This disease occasionally occurs with hogs. Symp- 
toms: At first the animal becomes dull and stupid, the 
eye red and inflamed, and the bowels constipated. In 
a short time, if not relieved, the animal runs wildly 
about, usually in a circle, seems blind, and breathing 
becomes rapid and laborious. Treatment: Avoid the 
use of corn, and feed soft laxative food, such as bran, 
or oil-cake meal in sweet milk or swill, and give at a 
dose, two tablespoonfuls of castor oil twice a day, then 
bathe the head between the ears and eyes with the 
rheumatic liniment, turpentine, or any good strong 
liniment that will produce a counter irritation. 

FOUNDER AND RHEUMATISM. 

Founder is caused by over-feeding and lack of ex- 
ercise. Symptoms: Loss of appetite, and so lame and 
stiff they can hardly get around. Treatment: Give on 
tongue a tablespoonful of powdered alum. In very 
severe cases repeat this dose in a day or two, and 
avoid the use of corn. Feed light and soft food of any 
kind and turn them out for exercise. 

Rheumatism is something that swine are as subject 
to as any other stock. It is often caused by close con- 
finement, and especially on board or stone floors, or 
when being compelled to sleep in a damp and cold 
place. Symptoms: Similar to founder, being sluggish, 
with indisposition to move, accompanied by fever, pain 
and swelling of affected parts. Frequently the swell- 



208 LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

ing is of a wandering character and changes about 
from one location to another. Treatment: Use my 
cholera remedy and bathe afflicted parts with the 
rheumatic liniment, which will affect a speedy cure. 

SNUFFLES, CATARRH. 

Snuffles with pigs is caused by catarrh in a chronic 
form, caused by repeatedly contracting cold and 
being neglected, and frequently by improper breeding, 
the same as pigs with thumps. This is thought by 
some breeders to be hereditary, and no doubt is, when 
those badly afflicted are used as breeders. But this 
can be said of any other badly diseased hog; unless 
they are perfectly cured they should not be used as 
breeders. The treatment for this disease is light and 
soft food at all times for a week or more, in which can 
be given my Tonic Powder with good results, as it will 
cleanse the system and purify the blood, which will 
effect a cure. Carbolic acid used freely about the pens 
and troughs will also produce good results. 

PILES WITH HOGS 

Piles i • -! disease which frequently occurs with hogs, 
but is n dangerous, as it seldom, if ever, causes 
death, but ' 3 very painful, and the animal so affected 
will not do well unless cured. Piles is seldom discov- 
ered until T ie knots are visible, but occasionally may 
be, after the disorder has so advanced that blood 
passes off with the excrements, or the hair around the 
anus is blood stained It is caused by the use of 
rich and heating food, or sour slops. It occurs more 
with still fed or pen fed hogs than any other kind, and 
often with hogs that follow cattle. Treatment: Avoid 
the use of corn, feed light with soft food of any kind, 
or turn them on grass. An injection of warm salt 
water or salt and vinegar is very good, but when the 
rectum is much protruded it should be replaced first, 
before giving the injection. This can be done by 



LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 209 

oiling it with any kind of oil and by carefully press- 
ing it in. 

INTESTINE WOEMS. 

These sometimes accumulate to such an extent in 
hogs as to be injurious to them, and occasionally cause 
death by strangulation, also cause constipation and 
unthriftiness. Symptoms: More or less coughing, hair 
looks rough, appetite good, but they do not thrive. 
Cause: Close confinement or dry and musty food, 
stagnant, snow or ice water, and neglect to give them 
the needful care in the way of a change of the proper 
kind of food or remedy, to overcome the evil effects of 
the above named causes. Treatment: Either one of 
my swine remedies used in soft, laxative food, will 
effect a speedy cure, or soda, copperas and rosin equal 
parts is also good. 

SWEATING, SCOURS, CHOLERA INFANTUM. 

Sweating pigs. This is caused by a lack of vitality, 
the same cause that produces night sweats in human 
beings. Treatment: Divide the pigs up into small 
lots and keep them out of their beds during the day. 
Compel them to exercise and use my tonic powder, as 
for general use, for a few days, which will remove all 
this trouble. 

Scours — Cholera Infantum. Many of our swine 
breeders sustain considerable loss annually by their 
pigs dying from the disease known as scours, which is 
caused by the bad quality of the sow's milk. The dis- 
ease is more apt to make its appearance when the sow 
has been fed upon dry corn or musty food. It gener- 
ally attacks them within two or three days after their 
birth, but sometimes after they are much older. I 
have never failed to check and cure this disease when 
I used the treatment as given on page 194. 



210 LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

BLOOD POISON, SCROFULA OR CANKEROUS SORE MOUTH, 

are of frequent occurence with unthrifty and badly kept 
pigs, and often caused by the use of musty and un- 
wholesome food, or the bad quality of the sow's milk. 
Very often dirty pens and dirty udders will make 
young suckling pigs sore about the mouth and head, 
and frequently the tusks of young pigs are so promi- 
nent as to cause them to bite and lacerate their lips, 
which become sore, and, in either case, the inflamma- 
tion will spread. Treatment: The same as for scours, 
and apply externally upon all the parts where any 
sores appear the following mixture: Coal oil and lard, 
equal parts ; to one half pint of this add one tablespoon- 
ful of carbolic acid ; this will heal the sores. This is good 
to use on hogs when being castrated, or on very mangy 
ones. When either the pigs or pens are dirty, both 
should be thoroughly cleaned and kept that way. 
Sometimes pigs have what is called " measles" — pim- 
ples all over the body. They usually appear first 
about the head or flanks, and are caused by the blood 
being impoverished or poisoned. This, if neglected, 
will very often turn to scrofula or cankerous sores. 
But if treated as directed, and when the hogs, if con- 
fined, are turned out on the fresh ground, they will 
soon recover. 

MANGE AND LICE. 

Mange, like many other diseases of the hog, is in- 
fectious or contagious, and is similar to the itch in the 
human family, or scab in sheep. It is quickly and 
easily cured by using the mixture thoroughly as given 
above, or take coal oil or black oil, such as is used for 
machinery, and lard, equal parts; make warm, put it 
in a sprinkling can, get your hogs in a close place and 
give them a good sprinkling. This rids them of all 
mange or dandruff, opens up the pores, and helps to 
promote health generally. The same mixture is good 



LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 211 

to use for lice, in fact is the best thing that can be 
used, and should be applied once a month or every six 
weeks; this will rid them entirely of the pests. I have 
used this for the past fifteen years with good results, 
and have never had any cause to change it. This is 
one of the first things that should be done with a lot of 
diseased hogs after you put them under treatment. It 
is of great benefit to them, and should not be neglect- 
ed. In extreme cases of mange it may be well to give 
the animal a thorough washing with soap and warm 
water, then apply the first treatment as given. Never 
use coal oil alone, especially in hot weather, as it will 
scald the hog and cause the hair to come off. 

Lice are a great pest to hogs as well as other ani- 
mals, and one they should be kept rid of, for there is 
no doubt they will do better with them off than on, 
and the time they are employed in rubbing them off, 
as some let them do, could be more profitably employ- 
ed putting on flesh by keeping quiet. Treatment the 
same as for mange. Some make use of sulphur and 
wood ashes, coal oil or black oil alone, to sprinkle their 
hogs with. All are bad and will scald the hair off, and 
often do harm. The free use of sulphur given inter- 
nally to hogs is very injurious in cold weather, as it 
opens up all the pores and makes them very sensitive 
to cold. 

The claim that some make, that lice cause cholera, 
is a falacy; also the claim that they lay an egg that 
produces a worm, which enters the hog through the 
ear and causes death. A louse is a louse, although 
there are many species of them. They never turn to 
any other insect, and as for their causing cholera with 
hogs, it will be time enough to claim that after lice 
have caused cholera with the human family. 

In closing the swine department, it may be well to 
once more recall the mind of the reader to certain facts 



212 LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

regarding swine diseases. The old saying, 
of prevention is better than a pound of cure," is a true 
one in swine raising. Therefore I will offer a few brief 
suggestions which if born in mind, may be of benefit to 
many. It should be remembered that many diseases of 
swine are infectious and contagious, therefore every 
precaution should be used to prevent the introduction 
of any disease into the herd or community. Aside from 
the many ways spoken of in this work as to how the 
swine germ may be transported, and introduced, the 
evil which spreads the disease over the greatest scope 
of country the quickest, is driving diseased hogs along 
the public road, or having them exposed where they 
have died. I have known whole neighborhoods for 
miles around to be inoculated in this way. Hogs that 
are sick, or that die of cholera or any other sickness 
should never be transported over public highways. 

In buying hogs for feeding or breeding purposes, 
great care should be taken not to buy those that show 
any indication of disease, and if they are to be shipped 
home in cars, see that the cars are clean and have 
been sprinkled with air-slacked lime or a strong solu- 
tion of carbolic acid, as a disinfectant, before loading 
them. 

As to the feeding and care of swine that has been 
extensively discussed in this work; no rule can be 
given that would be or can be adopted by all feeders; 
hogs, like other stock, should be fed regularly twice or 
three times a day, and only be given what they will 
eat up clean, and should have a change of food, a 
grass or wood lot for range, the use of pure water, and 
salt regularly twice a week. 

Now I am aware that some persons claim that 
hogs do not need any salt, but that does not prove it 
to be so. I have also heard people claim that sheep 
did not need any water, and one claim has about as 






LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 213 

much foundation as the other. Salt, and hickory 
ashes, when they can be procured, is one of the best 
things that can be given hogs, and is something that 
they should have once or twice a week. 

The best plan for salting hogs is to make a square 
box, 2Jx2^ feet 6 inches high, then fasten this on to 
4x4 pieces. Set it in the lot or field, and put large 
pieces of rock salt in it so the hogs can have access to 
it all the time. The tonic powder can be mixed with 
bran or oats and put in these boxes twice a week for the 
hogs, and I am sure you will never have sick hogs to 
contend with, as it is a blood purifier and appetizer, 
which acts beneficially on the stomach and kidneys 
alike, and stimulates the entire system, thus ridding 
it of any parasites or disease, making the meat per- 
fectly healthy for use. 

This should induce every farmer to take care of 
his hogs, and not only produce healthy meat for his 
own use, but for that of his fellow men, for it has been 
practically demonstrated by eminent physicians that 
diseased pork has caused consumption, trichinae, scrofu- 
la, and other fatal diseases, with the human family in 
the United States, to greatly increase in the past ten 
years, and is also well known that there is at least one- 
third less pork consumed, than there would be, on 
account of diseased hogs. 

As shown before in this work, the investigations of 
scientists have proven that swine once afflicted with 
cholera, are less liable to its attacks than those that 
never had it, and it has been practically proven by the 
author that if they are properly treated, so that the 
system is thoroughly cleansed they are more profitable 
as breeders, than young hogs that were never affected- 
This again should induce every breeder who may be 
so unfortunate as to have sick hogs, to give them 
proper attention and treatment, and retain the best 



214 LOCAL DISEASES OF SWINE. 

thus saved for breeders. The only way this terrible 
scourge can be controlled is for every swine breedsr or 
feeder to take an interest in it. and make use of the 
best method of treatment that is known. 

BLACK TEETH SMUT POISON. 

Through mistake these subjects became misplaced, 
but as I am so often asked questions concerning them 
I will here mention them. 

Very often I am asked the question, do black teeth 
kill hogs? Or some one will say that a certain person 
was going through the country pulling out the black 
teeth of hogs, saying that " they were what caused hog 
cholera." Now this is all a mistake. Of course hogs 
may occasionally have a bad tooth that would be better 
out than in, but not often, especially if it is an upper 
jaw tooth; for then corn or other food will pass 
through the cavity caused by pulling the tooth into the 
nose, and cause more trouble than if it had been let 
alone. Therefore, I will say that if anyone wants to 
pull out your hogs' teeth, tell him you will leave them 
alone to crack corn with. 

The same is true of smut poision. If a hog never 
died until it died of smut poison or black teeth, there 
would be no use for hog medicines. What are called 
black teeth is a symptom of disease, and shows a 
necessity for a treatment of the general system. All 
pigs have the little black teeth in the middle of their 
jaws, which worry people so much. These are the 
teeth which make the tusks. When the pigs are young, 
these teeth are very small, but sometimes so sharp 
that they lacerate their tongues and cheeks so that they 
can not nurse or eat well, and they do miserable, when 
a pig shows these symptoms, these teeth should be 
broken off smoothly with a pair of pincers. 



American Poultry 



A TREATISE ON 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING, 



WITH INFORMATION AS TO THE BEST METHODS OF REARING AND 

HANDLING ALL KINDS OF POULTRY, WITH A REVIEW OF 

THE VARIOUS DISEASES TO WHICH THEY ARE 

SUBJECT, AND THE MOST PRACTICAL 

TREATMENT THEREOF. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 



Poultry Raising -Improving Breeds-Different Breeds -Practi- 
cal Suggestions as to Hatching, Rearing, and Care— Their 
Diseases and How to Treat Them. 




POULTRY RAISING. 

JBE raising of poultry, like the raising of other 
domestic stock, if conducted on scientific prin- 
ciples, can be made much more profitable than 
if conducted on a haphazard plan. This business, 
probably more than the raising of any other kind 
of stock, in order to be profitable, depends largely 
upon the situation. When one is within easy access 
to a large city, where the market is good at almost 
all times of the year, and both the fowls and eggs 
can be sold directly to the consumer or dealer, 
the profits are much better than when the products 
have to be sold in a village or small town, where the 
supply always exceeds the demand, or else to be 
shipped some distance to market, and then most likely 
pass througn a commissioner's hands. When poultry 
raising is conducted on a small scale, it is much more 
profitable correspondingly, and especially when con- 
nected with some other business, than when conducted 
alone on a large scale. Therefore, when experiment- 
ing with a few fowls, to ascertain what can be done, 
one must not suppose that the same profits could be 
made from a large number; for with poultry, as with 
swine, as the number increases, the chances of success 



218 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

diminish; not only do the advantages in caring for 
them diminish, but the danger arising from fatal dis- 
eases greatly increases. The question as to whether 
poultry raising pays, is a question settled long ago by 
the farmers' wives. As a farmer remarked: "Any 
housewife can make from her dairy and fowls more 
than any two men can make raising cotton and corn, 
and with one-tenth the capital and at one-hundredth 
part of labor. Many a man is working like a slave, 
groaning over his debts and troubles when freedom is 
just within his reach. It is in the improved breeds of 
fowls when properly cared for if he only knew it." 
This statement may be a little strong, but still for the 
same amount of capital and labor invested, there are 
but few things about the farm when properly managed 
that make as good a return as the poultry yard, and 
there are but few things with most farmers that are as 
badly neglected, and for farmers' wives and daughters 
who desire to do some extra work that will pay in 
cash, I know nothing that will pay as well in propor- 
tion to the time and capital invested as a small flock 
of fowls well cared for. It is a certainty that raising 
poultry for egg production pays the farmer. As a 
general thing the fowls that the farmer keeps in his 
barnyard and on which he expends but little, pay best 
of all his live stock, but when attention is especially 
paid to fowls, and they are properly fed, housed, and 
attended, after deducting the cost of keeping, care, and 
interest from the amount for which their eggs sell, 
there is in nine cases out of ten, a larger balance on 
the credit side of the ledger than is found in connec- 
tion with any single department of farm industry. 

A little watchful care is needed, and a little patience 
to go with it helps to make the raising of poultry 
pleasant and profitable. In early spring, when there 
is much to do in watching the breeders, making new 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 219 

nests for the layers, gathering and assorting the eggs 
for hatching, and anxiously waiting for signs of broodi- 
ness among some of the early layers, patience and care 
will be profitable investments. These little jobs, the 
odds and ends of the poultry business, seem trifling to 
those who do not keep poultry, but still they must be 
attended to in time if we desire to make the pursuit 
satisfactory and remunerative. We may say there is 
no real labor about it, think it is more of a duty than 
a task, and we feel better satisfied at the end of the 
season when we see something for our patience and 
care. 

To be successful in poultry raising one must have 
a liking for the pursuit. Few ever make much pro- 
gress or attain distinction if they feel that it is a forced 
task to keep fowls for what they bring to the pocket. 
Of course remuneration should be one of the primary 
objects, but at the same time one should like them and 
care for them willingly, though it is a matter of dol- 
lars and cents. If we give the object of poultry keep- 
ing a sensible thought, we will find that it gives recre- 
ation, amusement and daily pastime to the attendant; 
and when we see what we have accomplished during 
the hours of relaxation from other cares, we will uc 
rewarded for our efforts. 

Selected poultry suggestions: By carefully read- 
ing and observing the following notes, and adopting 
their advice as far as practicable, poultry raising can 
be made profitable in any locality. A very important 
matter in the keeping of fowls on a large scale is to se- 
cure a near market for them. Hotel-keepers, restau- 
rant proprietors, boardinghouse-keepers, etc. will often 
buy in large qantities and at good rates, when the 
" goods" suit and the seller is deemed reliable; but if 
the dealer on a large scale has only the general market 
to rely on, he may soon conclude that poultry keeping 



220 PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

does not pay. It is a dangerous business to enter upon 
when not well considered. The man who wishes to 
understand as much as possible about poultry keeping 
should buy and study the leading books and papers on 
the subject. Avoid those published in the interest of 
some particular breed or breeder. The farmer who 
objects to books giving instructions on this or any 
other subject, is as much at fault as a doctor or lawyer 
who should claim that he has no need of books. His 
profession would vote him a fool at once. The pleas- 
ure and interest that are awakened by the first step in 
the right direction go far towards gaining the experi- 
ence necessary to success. Profit and loss do not de- 
pend upon accident or chance, but are necessary con- 
sequences of wise or unwise methods of procedure. I 
have very frequently heard ladies say: "I cannot 
raise poultry; I have no luck with them; they all die 
for me, or something kills the little ones, or the hens 
will not lay." Let me tell you, kind friends, that there 
is no such thing as luck. If your neighbors are more 
successful than you, it is because they have better 
methods, or are more dilligent and attentive to their 
fowls. 

Very often, when ladies complain of having no 
luck with their poultry, and when the case is investi- 
gated, the cause is found that their fowls were allowed 
to roost in the trees during the winter, with no feed 
except what they got from around the corn-crib. Poul- 
try, like other animals, require housing in winter and 
a variety of feed, and if otherwise cared for prove un- 
profitable. 

There is nothing connected with poultry raising, 
whether for exhibition or market, that a woman can- 
not do better in a general way than most men. 
Poultry keeping is a healthy and engrossing pursuit. 
It is pleasurable as well as profitable; it affords amuse- 






PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 221 

ment, and well repays for the time and labor spent 
while engaged in it; but it should never be un- 
dertaken by any bat those who take an interest in it, 
and find pleasure in the work. A flock of hens will 
pay for themselves before they are one year old, if 
they are rightly cared for. You can then sell them, if 
you choose for a good price, and raise another lot, 
but it is not advisable to do so as the second year is 
the most profitable; but do not keep them after they 
are two years old, for after that age they do not pay 
so well. 

IMPROVING BREEDS. 

Those having the same kind of stock that has 
been on the place for years and years without crossing 
and improving should look to breeders for better stock 
than they have, or they ever had. They will be sur- 
prised to see what a difference it will make to introduce 
into their flocks one or more purely bred cocks. 

While you are thinking of ornamenting your 
homes, stop and consider what an ornament a beauti- 
ful pair or trio of Wyandotts, Dark or Light Brahmas, 
Hamburgs, Cochins, or some of the pretty strains of 
improved fowls would be. Five dollars invested in 
inanimate ornamentation would not attract nearly so 
much attention, nor receive the admiration of visitors 
as much as the same amount expended in high class 
fowls. Did you ever pass a farm yard where there 
was a flock of improved poultry that you did not have 
to stop and admire their beautiful uniform bodies, 
plumage, and appearance? It always creates a sensa- 
tion to get a valuable pair or trio of fowls from a dis- 
tance. The neighbors will speak for a pair of the off- 
spring, or setting of eggs, and were you willing to let 
them go you could get several times the price of the 
original fowls the first season for their produce. This is 
not merely supposition, but it is true. Five dollars 



222 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

per trio seems a large price, when common fowls sell 
at three dollars per dozen, but with good care a per- 
son can raise enough to pay for the parent stock the 
first season, and sell the produce at three dollars 
per dozen — the price of common fowls. So there 
is no money to be lost, even at the worst calculations. 
Nothing reproduces so fast as poultry. A pair of 
fowls reproduce themselves from twelve to forty times 
a year, and at the end of the year the produce is in 
full development, and the fac-simile of the parents 
ready to be sold at the same (considered by some) 
fancy prices. 

It costs no more to raise the best breeds of poultry 
than the common barn-yard fowl, while the returns are 
more than double. Get a setting of eggs from some 
reliable breeder, and convince yourself of this fact. In 
order to increase the size of common fowls, the cock 
selected should be a Cochin or Bramah, which will 
give a heavy feathering, compact size and small comb. 
Such a cross will lay earlier than the pure Bramah or 
Cochin, and make better nurses for chicks. This cross 
is well suited for cold climates. For warm climate, or 
where quality of flesh is desired, or the production of 
eggs, or as an out-cross for any of the large breeds, the 
Leghorn will prove profitable. It is only an amateur 
who is caught with the idea that a new and much- 
puffed variety of fowls, just discovered or imported, is 
better than anything yet known Only give the old 
sorts good care and they will do well enough, and 
often a great deal better than new breeds at fancy prices. 

LIGHT BRAHMAS. 

The light Brahma fowls are handsome birds when 
in full feather, and doubtless have as many merits, all 
things considered, as any other breed, if not more. A 
new beginner with poultry can hardly do better than 
to try this old reliable and valuable breed. But in 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 223 

saying this I am not advertising them or condeming 
other breeds. A cross of the light Brahma and white 
Leghorn, makes a very valuable fowl. Some persons 
prefer a cross of the Leghorn in order to gain early 




LIGHT BRAHMA. 

maturity, and increased egg production but object 
to the cross, as the infusion of Leghorn blood is so 
potent in greatly reducing the size, which is not desir- 
able in market fowls. Such reduction, however, will 
only occur for a single season, as the larger breeds of 
cockerels may afterwards be used. The Leghorn cross 
will always be found to be a very valuable one. 

THE OLD BLUE HEN. 

The " old blue hen " is a term applied to the extra 
good common hen. She is found on every farm and 
enjoys a reputation second to none. She has per- 
or med her duty faithfully and well, has always been a 
favorite, and is never forgotten. Long after she has 
passed away her qualities are extolled and her merits 
compared as a standard of judgment with hens of 
v./ery other breed. She is the model by which the 
usefulness of all other hens are measured, and often 



224 PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

she is pensioned and spared from the knife as a re- 
ward for her extraordinary capacity of egg production. 

But, somehow or other, no farmer ever succeeds in 
raising a whole flock like the old blue hen. He never 
has more than one of that kind. Carefully he selects 
her eggs for sitting, and cautiously he watches the 
nest where she lays in order to secure them. He 
places the eggs under a good hen, or allows the old hen 
to hatch them herself. The chicks soon come out 
sprightly, grow fast and arrive at maturity, but the 
pullets do not prove old blue hens. They usually 
turn out to be the most worthless scrubs on the farm, 
no two being alike in shape, color or size, and finally 
the farmer comes to the conclusion that there is 
nothing stable in breeding fowls for a special purpose. 

But the trouble with farmers in such cases is, that 
while they are particular about the old blue hen, they 
have not noticed that they have no old blue rooster. 
They forget that the rooster is everything, and that he 
impresses his qualities upon all his offspring. If the 
old blue hen is expected to produce something excel- 
lent when mated with a worthless barnyard mongrel, 
she is expected to do what would not be looked for in 
cattle, sheep or other stock. Farmers, the moral of 
this is that you should use thoroughbred males only, 
for in no other manner can a common flock or breed 
of any stock be improved. 

PLYMOUTH ROCK. 

The Plymouth Rock is a very valuable breed in 
most respects, being an average layer, quick maturer, 
and of good size, and void of the leg feathers so much 
disliked by most farmers. They are a quiet but in- 
dustrious breed; and cross well with the common 
breeds. They are the old Dominique improved, and 
if you remember the old saying, 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 225 

"Never mind the old speckled hen; 

You had better let her be, 
For she lays two eggs every day, 

And on Sunday she lays three." 




PLYMOUTH ROCK. 

The improvement though, has not been in the laying 
quality, as much as in the form and shade. 

AMERICAN DOMINIQJJES. 

The Dominique is thoroughly an American bird, and 
it combines many of the good qualities of the purely 
bred varieties. Its hardiness, symetry and general 
utility are only more appreciated by the addition of 
harmony of colors — being so blended as to be always 
pleasing to the eye. Like memories of by-gone days, 
always growing in remembrance, the American Domi- 
nique, so justly entitled to the appellation, comes to 
the front amidst the furor for something new, claiming 
our attention for long-established virtues and for its 
present improved appearance. 

POULTRY INVESTMENTS. 

" Nothing risked, nothing gained," is an old adage 
that is nowhere more applicable than in the poultry 
business; and there is no bi&iness in which it is so 
frequently ignored. So many are under the impression 
that the chicken business is too " small a frv " to invest 



226 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

anything in it, and that any one who invests his money 
in that way is simply throwing it away. The business 
certainly cannot be started on nothing, and run itself; 
those who make money in that business have more 
than the usual amount of skill and business tact. 

We must admit that an ordinary amount of com- 
mon sense a' id judgment is required to carry on any 
branch of business successfully, and the poultry busi- 
ness is no exception to the rule. But a corresponding 
amount of capital is needed to meet the requirements 
of the trade, and to insure comfort at least. What 
would you think of a man starting out to make a for- 
tune (or even a reasonable amount of money) on stock 
of any kind, who would start by procuring, or having 
already on hand, a poor, degraded lot of scrubs, and 
then turn them out to gather their living as best they 
can, leaving them to take shelter from driving storms 
under trees or behind fences, and should they come to 
the barn to seek shelter, to be driven back to seek their 
own shelter? You would soon pass judgment on him 
and mark him down as doomed to the misfortune of 
failure, which would seem inevitable, for it would be 
unjust and contrary to the laws of cause and effect for 
such a system to succeed. 

I need not make the application; you can see at a 
glance that the shoe fits, and I suppose you will have 
to wear it until you can make a change for the better. 
I wonder how many of our readers have ever seen 
fowls roosting in the trees, on fences or under a few 
loose boards in mid-winter, simply because " anything 
is good enough for the chickens?" 

I imagine many have seen such a sight, and per- 
haps in their own yards; we hope many have re- 
pented ere this, and are on the high road to success. 
Persons keeping fowls in such a manner have no need 
of the huckster until nearly June; perhaps not then, 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 227 

for men do not gather figs from thistles, nor eggs from 
hens that are so nearly frozen to death that the food 
they receive is scarcely sufficient to keep " soul and 
body together. 7 ' It would seem that many of us do not 
deserve eggs, or even fowls, for such inhuman treat- 
ment. There is no branch of farm economy that will 
pay such a handsome dividend on the capital invested 
as the poultry business, where it is carried on in a sys- 
tematic manner. Comfort must always be the ruling 
watchword which necessitates a moderate investment 
in food and shelter. 

MAKE CAREFUL SELECTIONS. 

In order to keep the character of a flock to full 
vigor and stamina it is important to be careful in 
selecting only those that are the best. If you intend 
to discard anything, let it be from the bottom. Always 
reserve the best to bread from. The transmittal of 
good qualities can be done only by those that are per- 
fect, and he who is careful in selecting only those best 
fitted for the purpose of improvement, not only ele- 
vates the poultry in his own yards, but confers a favor 
and benefit on overyone who patronizes him. It is by 
sound judgment, careful observation and unceasing 
watchfulness that the present breeds are becoming 
better and better as time passes along. By all means, 
if poultry is an object, do not trust to any haphazard 
risks, or unfounded hopes, but rely solely on the best 
attention that can be personally given. 

The fall is the time in which to make selections of 
the pullets that are intended as winter layers, and it is 
best to reserve those that were hatched early. It must 
be considered that fowls are adapted for particular sea- 
sons, according to the breeds. The Leghorns and 
other small breeds commence laying very early; the 
pullets hatched as late as the beginning of June some- 
times begin to lay about Christmas, but those a 



228 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

month older will give more satisfactory results, but 
unless given warm quarters and the best of feed, rarely 
make good winter layers. The large breeds — Brah- 
mas, Cochins, and Plymouth Rocks — require more 
time during which to grow and mature, and pullets of 
such breeds, when intended as winter layers, should be 
hatched as early as possible, March being the month 
preferred, but later-hatched pullets of the large breeds 
begin to lay early, and produce quite a number of eggs 
before spring begins. Langshan pullets begin to lay 
nearly as early as Leghorns, which is a good qualit}^ 
for a breed of large fowls, and the crosses of the Lang- 
shan with mixed or common fowls also produce good 
early layers. All fowls should be made comfortable 
during the winter season ; but there are breeds endowed 
with heavier and closer feathering than others, which 
are thereby enabled to retain the animal heat longer. 
An examination of the Leghorn hen will demonstrate 
that the body under the wings is sometimes nearly 
naked, being covered only by the wings, while the 
body of the Brahma and other large breeds is covered 
not only by the wings, but also by a heavy fluff feath- 
ering, soft and downy, which is serviceable during 
the winter season. There may be exceptions, but such 
is usually the case. Leg feathering, however, is of no 
advantage, as the feathers keep the legs continually 
damp, where the fowls are confined on heavy clay soil. 
The comb is another obstacle to the Leghorn and 
Black Spanish, such fowls having tall single combs, 
which are easily frosted when exposed to severe cold 
winds, or when they become wet, as the danger of 
freezing is thereby increased. The combs may be cut 
off close to the head, as also the wattles, if necessary, 
which operation is not necessarily dangerous, but 
sometimes beneficial when the combs are very heavy. 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 229 

CULL THE FLOCK. 

Each year select out and get rid of all the old fowls. 
January is a good month to do this, as they will hring 
about as much then as at any other time, and further 
expense in the way of care and feed is saved, also the 
risk of death or disease by having too many together. 
Always retain the early hatched pullets and last year's 
hens, as they will be the most profitable ones. As 
said before, early pullets are the birds for early winter 
layers, and the man who sells them for broilers at a 
low price, misses it. The early, molting hens are the 
ones that willbe your winter layers next to the early 
pullets. If the hens begin to molt early they will get 
through the process before winter sets in ; but if they 
begin to molt after cold weather comes they will not 
lay until spring, whether they finish before spring or 
not. A hen usually requires three months during 
which to molt. Little or no profit can be expected 
from fowls above the age of two years. Very valuable 
hen-mothers may sometimes be retained several years 
longer for chicken raising, but the rest should be dis- 
posed of. The most profitable fowls are pullets. 




GAME FOWLS. 

In January, or the fore part of February, get some 
purely bred cocks to mate with the hens retained, 
using good judgment as to the breed, if a cross is de- 



230 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

siredo Too many cocks in a flock are worse than too 
few. The right proportion is a matter for some study, 
and depends, in a measure, on the capacity of the 
cocks. Very clumsy ones should be avoided. 

INCUBATORS. 

Incubators can doubtless be made useful on many 
farms, by giving them close study and attention. No 
success need be expected without that, But when the 
purchase of one is being contemplated, I would advise 
the purchase of a small or cheap one to start with, and 
by experimenting with that, it can be ascertained 
whether it is profitable or not. There are but few 
things that can compete with nature in producing life. 
Incubators may be one of them, but I doubt if they 
are as cheap and reliable as hens for the general 
farmer To make poultry keeping a success, it has of 
late years become a matter of care and system, and to 
make full preparations for the spring trade is the order 
of business with the present progressive poultry man. 
We have our monthly work before us, and every month 
has its allotted share, whether it is preparing for the 
shows, selecting and mating the breeders, putting 
things in shape for hatching and caring for the broods, 
and so on through the whole annual routine. Spring 
has many drawbacks, and at the same time we are 
most sanguine about doing great things, our plans and 
prospects may fall through and burst like a bubble. 
Our hens which we have anxiously watched for the 
past few weeks, to see signs of broodiness, are deceiv- 
ing us by their merry cackle. Sometimes this is pro- 
voking when we have made up our minds to have 
some early chicks. But there is another feature about 
it; every baker's dozen brings in a few dollars, and we 
are quieted for the time being. Some breeders will 
get out of p-V^nce and resolve to have an incubator 
which will, they say, " do away with this eternal watch- 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 231 

ing and waiting for hens to sit. It can be set up at all 
seasons; it will regulate itself; it needs no coaxing to 
incubate, nor any food, only some hot water, during 
the time of work, and the chicks wil 1 roll out by the 
dozens." Now that is all very well to talk about, but 
you must prepare for disappointments. 

HOW TO FEED FOWLS. 

Feed regularly and in variety. Hide the grains in 
chaff or leaves, and let the fowls hunt and scratch them 
out. Never throw huge masses of food before them if 
you wish them to do well. 

Leghorns and other small breeds seldom become 
too fat, being active and vigorous. Accustomed habitu- 
ally to exercise, they work industriously and keep 
themselves in condition, but the large breeds, being 
more indolent, keep themselves rather quiet and soon 
become too fat. It is best, therefore, to keep this in 
view while feedings for it is easy to feed too much, and 
though the Leghorn and other breeds are not so large, 
they, nevertheless, are compelled to eat large quanti- 
ties in order to produce the number of eggs for which 
they are so famous. This does not imply that Brahmas 
and other large breeds must become too fat. They are 
easily kept within bounds by judicious feeding. Grains 
in excess should not be given, while bulk may be 
allowed in the shape of vegetables and green food 

Fowls in confinement must have grass or other 
green food provided for them, or they will not thrive. 
Careless observers will be surprised to know how much 
grass a hen eats in a year. A small flock will keep 
down all vegetation in a yard of considerable size. 

Instead of giving all the skimmed milk and butter- 
milk to the pigs, allow the hens to have a share, all by 
themselves, in nice clean pans, and see if they don't 
pay you amply for it. A little bran or meal stirre. ! 
into it helps greatly. Charcoal in feed will produce a 



232 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

greater amount of flesh and fat in poultry than the 
same quantity of feed without. 

Indian corn should be fed sparingly in the summer 
season to fowls, as it has a tendency to fatten to excess; 
but if fed whole once a day in the evening, it is bene- 
ficial. Charred corn is an excellent food for laying 
hens, and serves to keep them healthy and vigorous. 
Do not feed it alone, but give once a day, and be 
careful in preparing it, or it will burn to ashes. 
Ground or cracked corn produces better results if fed 
in the morning, and if mixed with other food is better 
than if fed alone. For chicks, feed meal or soft food wet 
with milk during the day, and in the evening cracked 
corn, wheat, or some other small grain. 

The last thing that the little chick does before 
leaving the shell is to draw into its body the white of 
the egg, from the yolk of which the body of the chicken 
has been developed. So the first food given it should 
not be materially different. Boiled eggs, crumbled 
into little bits, form the most natural food that the 
little chick can have. But don't be in a hurry to feed 
it. Full and plump as it is when it comes from the 
shell, it will need no feed for at least twelve hours. In 
that time it has learned the use of its legs, and is much 
more active than at first, and will readily pick up food 
that its wise old mother invites it to partake of. 

Soft food, with now and then seeds and small grain, 
is much better for young chicks than an exclusive diet 
of whole grain. Young birds, like suckling animals, 
cannot masticate solid food, for the organs of mastica- 
tion and digestion are unable to perform the work in a 
healthy manner. 

The great objection to soft food, such as corn meal 
dough, is the way in which it is usually mixed up for 
chicks. When it is porridgy it is not fit for them, as 
it sours in their crops, and causes diarrhoea. Stale 



PEOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 233 

bread crumbs sopped in milk, " Johnny-cake/' brown 
bread, boiled rice, cracked wheat, millet, and a little 
cooked food occasionally, will make them grow nicely. 

When the chicks are able to run around and pick 
bugs, seeds, cracked corn, and wheat, they will make 
very rapid growth, for then they are able to partake of 
more solid food. They should have no more food at a 
time than what they will pick up clean, for if left to be 
soiled or trampled upon, it is unfit for use; and once 
rejected, they seldom touch it afterwards. 

It is noticeable with fowls, particularly young birds, 
that they will pick up fresh food as often as it is 
dropped to them. Variety of food, or change in the 
manner of cooking and preparing it, makes it more 
relished. It costs no more, or at least not much more, 
to provide a variety of food than one or two kinds. 
Yet many breeders use but one or two kinds of grain 
during the year, and believe there is economy in it. 




PARTRIDGE COACHIN. 

In the winter season, fowls can get but little to eat 
except what is given to them by hand. They may be 
liable to pick up something in the barn-yard, where 
grain-fed cattle and hogs are turned every day, but a 
great many poultry keepers have no stalls or barn- 
yards for poultry to forage in, hence they are entirely 
dependent on their keepers for support. 



234 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

The food and the manner in which it is fed has a 
great deal to do with the health and well being of 
fowls in the winter season. They like a variety of 
food at all seasons, especially in cold weather. When 
fed a variety of good food and housed well, you may 
expect a good supply of eggs in winter. 

Feeding fowls requires judgment. In order to lay 
and give good results they must be given a variety of 
food, green food being allowed as a regular addition to 
the supply of grain. Meat in some shape is also 
essential, and good quarters and pure water are very 
important. As eggs bring better prices in the fall and 
during the winter than at any other time, the breeder 
will be .veil rewarded for the care he may bestow if 
the fowls are properly attended to and their wants 
amply supplied. 

Exercise is very important for all fowls, whether 
old or young, and especially for laying hens, where 
eggs are to be used for breeding purposes, as then they 
are more apt to be fertile. Therefore it is desirable in 
winter to have the floor of the hen-house sprinkled 
with chaff for the fowls to scratch in, for this keeps 
them active and gives them the exercise they so much 
need. 

Every hen in high health has a bright red or crim- 
son-colored comb, and all laying hens show that color. 
It is most always absent from a hen that has been set- 
ting three or four weeks, as she is not in a laying con- 
dition. 

Iron nails thrown into the drinking water will 
make a good tonic for the fowls, or else use an iron 
vessel in which to give them their drink. In absence 
of this, a tablespoonful of tincture of iron in half a 
gallon of water is good. The want of pure and fresh 
water accounts, in many instances, for diseased fowls 
and for the lack of eggs during the winter season. 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 235 

Fowls require a constant supply of water, and with- 
out it will not lay or do well. 

Good care for poultry is especially necessary dur- 
ing the moulting season. Feed generously, and pro- 
vide shelter from inclement weather, for at this period 
the system is thoroughly drained, and they are liable 
to disease. 

NESTS FOR SETTING HENS. 

Many years of experience in the setting of hens 
and the rearing of poultry has proven that the best 
nest for setting purposes is the sod-box. It is made 
as follows: Take a square box, or make one 12 or 16 
inches square and about 14 inches deep, cut out a blue 
grass or timothy sod just large enough to fit the bot- 
tom of the box, and about four inches thick; place the 
grass side down, as it is good to hold moisture; place 
about two inches of straw or grass on this — the finer 
the grass the better — dampen the nest with luke- 
warm water before setting the hen; then dampen 
every few days until the eggs are hatched. If the hen 
is a good setter you will get a hundred per cent, from 
the fertile eggs. Turkeys, geese, and all fowls in the 
wild state, build their nests on the ground. The sod- 
box makes up for the deficiency in dampness, for no 
doubt the proper way to make a nest for a hen for any 
purpose is to follow nature as closely as possible, or 
else let her make her own nest. Another good way to 
construct a nest is to saw a barrel in two in the center, 
then cut off two or three of the staves, so as to make a 
place for the hen to get in; turn the barrel upside 
down and make the nest on the ground. This makes 
a dark and damp nest, such as nature requires. Have 
a watchful eye on the setting hens. A hen should not 
be entrusted with the eggs until she has left her nest 
once or twice, and returned to it without too long an 
absence. Arrangements should be made whereby she 



236 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

will not be interrupted by other fowls. Food should be 
within her easy reach, so that she should riot be so 
loug in quest of it. Corn is the best food for her, and 
green or soft food should not be given her during this 
period, as they induce a laxative condition. A dust- 
box should be provided so she can take her baths; for 
the hen is a cleanly creature if she has an opportu- 
nity to be so. 

Fanny Field says: " A beginner wants to know 
how poultry raisers manage to make one hen own two 
broods of chicks; says she has tried it more than once, 
but the hen would fight all the chicks except her own. 
Didn't go to work right, my dear; you must mix the 
two families before the hen finds out how many chil- 
dren she has of her own, and what they look like. 
Slip the extra chicks under the hen before she leaves 
the nest, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred 
she will think she hatched them all. Or if you take 
the hen from the nest before she gets ready to leave, 
give her all the chicks when you put her in the coop. 
Sometimes a dark hen will object strongly to a single 
white chick, but if she has half a dozen of that color 
she will own them all." 

POULTRY IN THE GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 

It is a very excellent practice to place newly- 
hatched broods in an enclosed garden to which the 
older fowls do not have access. Confine the mother 
hen in a coop which may be placed in the shade of 
any small fruit tree or bush. As chicks require soft 
# and delicate food at first, it is difficult to feed them if 
their coops are placed where the rest of the flock can 
pillage freely, but if allowed access to the garden, they 
will run about, doing no harm. Their little bodies and 
feet will make no impression on the soil; they do not 
scratch, never seem dissatisfied, but find pleasure only 
in the pursuit of food, or in basking in a warm corner 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 237 

in the sun's rays. While in this stage of infantile in- 
nocence the little creatures can do the garden a vast 
amount of good, for their little bright eyes spy out 
and little bills gather myriads of insects that are not 
easily visible to the human eye. Perhaps owing to 
the very minute nature of the food they gather, 
arising from their characteristic voracity, they are 
always roaming about and doing useful work. This is 
a practice that should be followed when possible. I 
believe that if farmers and fruit raisers knew the 
benefit arising from such management, they would at 
once adopt it, for in almost all instances whenever a 
fruit tree is in the poultry yard, it seldom fails to bear. 
Knowing this to be the case, it could be made very 
profitable, as far as practical, to confine the poultry in 
the orchard. The good results are more noticeable 
with plums or peaches than with apples, as the fowls 
destroy the worms that are destructive to that fruit. 

SUNFLOWER SEED. 

I do not suppose that the sunflower will very soon 
command itself to the general farmer as a crop, how- 
ever valuable it may be. But there is no doubt that 
as a valuable food for poultry, the seed of the sun- 
flower is worthy of consideration. As it is so easily 
grown and gathered, every farmer should try to raise 
a large amount and store it away to feed their poultry 
during the winter, as it is a very valuable food, and 
especially as a change of feed. 

POULTRY HOUSES. 

Poultry cannot be kept to an advantage unless they 
have a properly arranged house for their accommoda- 
tion. This is just as necessary to their well-being as 
it is that the cattle or horses should have a warm 
barn. Poultry houses need not be expensive, but 
should be built snug and warm. The three principal 
errors most common in the management of poultry 



238 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

are: First, allowing too many fowls to mass together; 
second, neglecting to keep the house and yard as clean 
and as thoroughly disinfected as they should be; third, 
allowing them to roost in the peach or apple trees 
around the house, or in a rail-pen with a leaky roof. 
If you have not built a comfortable poultry house it 
would be well to consider the matter and see if you 
do not think it would pay you to build one. In the 
fall, before cold weather commences, look well to your 
poultry houses and see what is needed in the way of 
repairs or new buildings. To begin with, the poultry 
houses must not only be air-tight, but be heated by the 
sun or artificial heat, and can be of any design you de- 
sire. The building may be a lean-to, fronting the 
south or southeast, with windows in front, or made 
with a roof having a long slope on the south side, 
with an ordinary greenhouse sash to admit light. 
The building need not be unnecessarily expensive 
or ornamental, put should be convenient and comfort- 
able. If sided up all around with jointed or battoned 
stock boards, and lined inside with tarred paper, it 
will not only make a healthful house, but one good 
enough for every purpose. All poultry houses should 
be thoroughly whitewashed every few months, and 
some carbolic acid put in the whitewash as a disin- 
fectant, which will cleanse the house of all parasites 
and vermin. Proper means should be taken to ven- 
tilate the house, but the ventilation should be so con- 
structed that the draught will not strike the fowls, as 
it is liable to cause disease and freeze their combs. 
Do not complain because your hens lay no eggs, if you 
have allowed them to have their combs frozen. It 
will take them some time to repair the damage which 
your neglect has caused. You are guilty, and suffer 
financially. They are innocent, but must suffer physi- 
cally. There is always a good demand for eggs in 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 239 

winter, and the farmer should endeavor to have his 
hens in such condition that they will produce eggs at 
this time, when they are worth twice as much as they 
are in summer. To do this a good poultry house is 
necessary. 

The best and most natural flooring for poultry 
houses, all things considered, is clean dry earth upon 
an earth floor. In cleaning the house, always take out 
part or all of the loose earth, with the manure and re- 
place it with fresh earth. 

One of the principal advantages of having a separ- 
ate house for poultry is in being able to save their 
droppings. These should not be allowed to accumu- 
late all winter, but should be removed at least once a 
week, as they are a fruitful source of disease if not re- 
moved. You will be surprised how many barrels of 
the best of fertilizer you will have next spring, if you 
thus save the droppings from twenty well fed fowls. 

In the winter, if you think the hens eat their eggs, 
first be sure they have any to eat. Second, remove the 
cause, and it will soon stop the habit. It is usually 
acquired by several hens crowding into one nest, thus 
breaking the eggs. The hens soon find they are good 
to eat, and that the shell supplies their peculiar ap- 
petite for bone, and so are apt to continue it. It is a 
bad plan to throw the empty shells into the poultry 
yard without first crushing them fine, or mixing them 
with other food. Crushed oyster shells and bones will 
supply the hens with what they want. These should 
always be where the hens can get them, and it is won- 
derful what an amount of them they will devour. It 
is folly to suppose, as some do, that the few egg shells 
they give their poultry, ought to supply them with 
shell-making material for all the eggs they expect them 
to lay. I have seen the lime picked off of white- 
washed buildings as high as the hens could jump, and 



240 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

have heard the owners complain because the "vile 
hens" would not refrain from this practice. Give 
them crushed oyster shells, or at least bone material 
of some sort, every day or two, and it will not only 
increase the production of eggs, but prevent the hens 
from eating them. Charcoal and lime should be 
furnished fowls, and let them have all they will eat. 
Even if the fowls are not confined, but especially so if 
they are. Charcoal pounded up into bits of pieces 
about the size of a grain of corn, or a little finer, 
should be put where the fowls can have easy access to 
it, and they will soon make use of it. 

GOOD AND POOR EGGS. 

The difference between an egg laid by a plump, 
healthy hen, fed with good, fresh food daily, and an 
egg laid by a thin, poorly fed hen, is as great as the 
difference between good and poor beef. A fowl fed 
on garbage and weak slops, with very little grain 
of any kind, may lay eggs to be sure, but when these 
eggs are broken to be used for cakes, pies, etc., they 
will spread in a weak, watery way over the dish, or 
look like a milky white instead of having a rich, 
slightly yellow tinge. A rich egg retains its shape as 
far as possible, and yields to the beating of a knife or 
spoon with more resistence, and gives one the convic- 
tion that they are really beating something thicker 
than water or diluted milk. 

A fresh egg has a clear, yellow color when held to 
the eye so that the sun or a bright light can fall upon 
it. The fingers should enclose it so that the light is 
excluded from passing between the fingers and the 
shell. Eggs which admit no light are bad. Some 
dealers who handle large quantities of eggs " candle " 
them, that is, examine them in a dark room by hold- 
ing them near a candle or lamp to see if light will pass 
through. 



PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 241 

HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS. 

The different methods for packing and keeping 
eggs for future use are numerous. But a method that 
I always found to be successful and one that can 
always be relied upon, providing the eggs are fresh and 
the packing properly done, is to cover the bottom of a 
keg, cask, jar, or whatever you choose to pack in, with 
a layer of fine salt two inches deep; upon this place 
the eggs, small end down, and far enough apart so 
that they will not touch each other or the sides of the 
receptacle; then put on another two-inch layer of salt, 
then add another layer of eggs, and so on till the pack- 
age is full. This is, on the whole, the best method for 
house-keepers and for those who have only a small 
number to pack for market. The salt can be used 
over and over again. 

Pickled eggs won't boil. Whenever they come in 
contact with hot water, the shell dissolves partnership 
in the middle; but the following process will be found 
good to keep eggs: 

Take a teacupful of salt, and lime the size of an 
egg, and pour boiling water on them. When cold 
drain off the liquor and put it on the eggs. If too 
strong, there will be a crust on the top; if so, add 
more water. This is for two gallons of liquor. Eggs 
put down in August in this way and used in April are 
just as fresh and make just as nice frosting as newly 
laid ones. 

MEDICATED NEST-EGGS. 

Cut a hole in one end of an egg as big as this 
capital O. In the other put a pin hole. Now blow 
out the contents and you have the empty shell. Next 
mix Plaster Paris and water together, to the con- 
sistency of cream; add a few drops of carbolic acid. 
Pour this into the shell until it is filled, and in twenty- 
four hours it will be dry and you will have a medi- 



242 PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

cated nest-egg. Five cents worth of Plaster Paris 
will make a dozen, and the same amount of carbolic 
acid is sufficient to scent a hundred. The scheme, 
though novel, has the merit of being practical. It is 
well known that carbolic acid is an insecticide, as well 
as a powerful disinfectant. 

WEIGHT OF EGGS. 

Shall eggs be sold by the number or by the pound, 
is a momentous question that is agitating a great 
many of the consumers of eggs. It has been learned 
that the average weight of twenty eggs laid by fowls 
of different breeds is two and one-eighth pounds. The 
breeds that lay the largest eggs, averaging seven to the 
pound, are Black Spanish, Houdans, La Fleches, and 
Creve-Coeurs. Eggs of medium size and weight, 
averaging eight or nine to the pound, are laid by Leg- 
horns, Cochins, Brahmas, Polands, Dorkings, Games, 
and Sultans. Hamburgs lay about ten eggs to the 
pound. Thus there is a difference of three eggs in 
one pound weight. Hence it is claimed that in justice 
to the consumers, eggs should be sold by weight, and 
no doubt, it would be found better, both for the pro- 
ducer and consumer of eggs, to sell by weight rather 
than number, for as the market is to-day, small eggs 
sell for the same as nice, large ones. 

VERMIN LICE. 

We all know what a dust bath is, for we have seen 
the fowls, hundreds of times, at work dusting them- 
selves. A heap of ashes, pile of dirt, or a place scooped 
out in the ground, any convenient spot that affords a 
good opportunity for fowls to throw the dust over them- 
selves, is suitable as a place for a dust bath. 

They dust themselves in order to rid themselves of 
vermin. They can easily get rid of lice if you give 
them a chance, but unless they are protected against 
their return, the fowls cannot keep themselves rid of 






PKOFITABLE POULTEY EAISING. 243 

them. The dust bath drives away the lice, but only 
for the time being. If the quarters are filthy, they 
will soon swarm with lice; and as soon as evening 
comes, and the birds return to roost, the lice attack 
them again. There are two kinds of lice that trouble 
them. One kind remains on the body until driven off 
by the dust bath, but the other kind loves darkness 
rather than light, because its deeds are evil, and so it 
attacks them when on the roost, like the Chinch or 
Bed-bug, and sneakingly hides away on the approach 
of day. They inflict terrible suffering on the fowls, 
and there can be no thrift or enjoyment of health in 
the presence of these detestable parasites. To be rid 
of them is to put the quarters in a clean condition, 
and there is nothing equal to a thick daubing of white- 
wash with some carbolic acid added. It will not do to 
give the quarters one cleaning and then stop, but it 
must be repeated often. 

Coal oil or coal tar is also frequently used to good 
advantage for the same purpose. Apply it with a 
brush into every crack and crevice where there is any 
chance for vermin, and it will rid the premises of them. 

There is no use in cleaning the poultry house unless 
the old nests are removed and burned. They will be 
sure to harbor more of the various kinds of poultry 
parasites than any one can ever exterminate with a 
whitewash brush. 

Lice are a great pest to poultry, as well as to any 
other stock, and it is impossible for them to do well 
with this annoying pest sucking the life-blood away 
from them all the time. If you notice a fowl drooping, 
or standing off by itself all drawn up in a bunch, 
watch it closely. If you can see no indications of 
cholera, if it eats when food is thrown toward it, but 
quickly resumes its uncouth position, examine it care- 
fully to see if it is not infested with vermin. Several 



244 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

kinds of lice give trouble in the poultry house, but 
those very small ones, scarcely discernible to the 
naked eye, are the worst. Examine carefully under 
the wings, and in the fluff of the bird. If you find 
them you may not be able to get rid of them without 
doctoring the whole flock, and renovating the premi- 
ses they occupy. 

Treatment: Apply lightly on the head and around 
under the wings, coal oil and lard equal parts, mixed. 
This will soon rid the fowls of them, but will be of 
little use unless the roosts and nests are thoroughly 
cleaned. All poultry houses should be looked after 
three or four times a year, or oftener, if necessary; by 
so doing it will go a long ways towards insuring health 
and prosperity among your fowls. 

DUCKS. 

We are occasionally led into wondering why more 
ducks are not bred and marketed among our poultry 
breeders in America. We have now in this country 
three or four varieties of imported ducks, at the head 
of which the Pekins stand to-day without question for 
size, early maturity, hardiness and thrift. The Ayles- 
bury (pure white, like the Pekin), the Rouen (brown 
or parti-colored), and the Cayuga (black), are notable 
and of good quality. Each of these varities, within my 
knowledge, has been successfully bred upon a country 
place where there was neither pond nor rivulet for 
their amusement. 

The ducklings were hatched under hens, and the 
ducks were raised with the other poultry and fowls on 
the estate, with similar feed and care, the owner claim- 
ing that, for marketing purposes, ducks can be reared, 
like other fowls, upon dry land without any percepti- 
ble difference in their thrift during the season. The 
Cayuga duck has not been extensively propagated 
until of late years, although it is well worthy of cultiva- 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 245 

tion and the best of dark ducks. Ducks should be 
allowed as much freedom as possible, as they are not 
partial to confinement, like chickens. When they are 
kept in the poultry yard with hens they become qarrel- 
some and do more damage than they are worth, and 
for that reason should be kept separate or allowed to 
run free. 

There is money in ducks, and a goodly quantity 
of it, too, provided you know how to get it out and 
have the facilities for breeding them successfully. The 
one thing essential is plenty of running water; a small 
stream or pond near by is most excellent, and far bet- 
ter than a river or large stream, in which latter the 
young ducks are apt to fall an easy prey to snakes, 
turtles, etc. Artificial ponds can be constructed, 
though these are often objectionable on account of 
their liability to become stagnant. If this can be 
avoided, by some way insuring its being kept fresh 
and pure, it is as good, to all intents and purposes, as 
a stream. 

In breeding ducks, keep them in the yards until 
about ten o'clock in the morning, by which time they 
will have laid their eggs; after that they can be given 
their liberty. Keep the ducks laying all through the 
breeding season, and set all the duck eggs under hens. 
As soon as the young ducklings appear, transfer them 
to a commodious coop with their foster-mother, and 
make a small pen for them. Keep a shallow pan or 
small trough in the pen, and keep constantly sup- 
plied with clean, fresh water until they get well 
grown and fully feathered; do not let them fre 
quent the pond or stream, but give them plenty of 
room to run around on the grass when the due is off. 
When they get fully feathered let them out into swim- 
ming water and they will be happy. 



246 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

It is surprising what a large flock of young ducks 
can in this way be reared from a single trio of ducks 
in a good season, as ducks get most of their living off 
the grass. Breeding ducks cannot be confined in pens, 
for they copulate in the water, and unless they have 
swimming water their eggs will generally be unfertile. 

Any little, low, shed-like house with a good roof 
will do for ducks, and the only thing necessary to keep 
them properly is to keep the place clean and well sup- 
pled with fine hay as a bedding. 




RAISING GEESE. 

The old gray goose and its mate of the white or 
mottled variety, so commonly seen about the barn- 
yards in certain localities; are bred in considerable 
numbers by farmers and poulterers in some localities 
where they have the conveniences and facilities for 
rearing this fine water-fowl, but the Embden or Tou- 
louse geese are better. 

Three or four geese only should be mated to one 
gander, and generally two are sufficient. Laying be- 
gins in April, or early in May. After the goose has 
laid her litter, from ten to fifteen, she will arrange her 
nest in setting order and line it with feathers. If the 
eggs have been taken from her they should now be re- 
turned, and allow her to cover them. As the process 
of incubation is of considerable length — from twenty- 
eight to thirty-two days she must be encouraged to leave 



PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 247 

the nest often for food and exercise. A supply of clean 
water and vegetable food, raw and cooked, and also 
corn should be given to keep her in a healthy state. 
An occasional visit to a pond of water can do no harm, 
provided it is not prolonged until the eggs become 
chilled. 

OUR NATIONAL TURKEY. 

" Our National bird is not so much the eagle 
which few of us ever see, except at the Zoo, or rarer 
still, on the gold pieces," remarks a writer " but the 
more savory, the more festive turkey." The turkey may 
not soar so high in a patriotic sense, but he touches the 
National heart more tenderly, especially about Thanks- 
giving or Christmas time, when men are so susceptible 
to the tenderest influences of life. 

Some writers assert that turkeys were known to the 
ancients, but a writer in the New York Era tells us 
this is an error. It is a nice question, too, who first 
introduced the turkey into France. In many parts of 
France jesuite is a familiar name for turkey. The 
very name in the French language would seem to at- 
test its American origin, for this country was formerly 
designated Indes Occidentals — hence dindon. Besides 
this is the only country where the turkey is found 
wild. 

A turkey in prime condition, properly cooked, is a 
dish of which few persons refuse to partake. The 
young hen turkey, plump and fat, is usually preferred; 
though a young Tom being larger, and weighing from 
fifteen to twenty pounds, can hardly be surpassed when 
well roasted. The old turkey is best for boning, and is 
excellent when boiled. Wild turkeys are always to be 
found in some markets during the winter season. 
Their flesh is darker than the tame, and has a gamey 
taste. A Capon turkey, however, is the most delicious 
of all, being more tender, succulent and finer flavored. 



248 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

Well fattened and well-dressed turkeys will bring two 
or three cents a pound more than the lean bird. It 
will not only be better for the purse, but for your man- 
hood, to send nothing but finished products to the 
market. 

Those who have turkeys should feed liberally from 
early fall to Thanksgiving or Christmas. The demand 
for good turkey dinners is increasing, and turkey fat- 
tening should progress rapidly for early sales. In 
mild, early autumn weather these birds lay on fat 
rapidly with good feeding. At first they need to be 
fed only at night; they should go to their roosts every 
night with full crops. This will not prevent their 
morning excursions. Turkeys prefer corn to any other 
food. The addition of mashed boiled potatoes will 
help their relish for it. As insects drop off, flesh and 
scraps should be increased. For the last six weeks of 
their life they should be plied with corn. 




BRONZE TURKEYS. 

The Bronze is the king of turkeys. In short, they 
are noted for their great size and rich, changeable 
bronze colors. They are always beautiful; are pretty 
good foragers, and it costs little to raise them where 
grasshoppers and insects are plenty. They are No. 1 
layers, hardy, and easy to raise; they make a very 
rapid growth, and if the winter is not too hard, and 
does not set in too early, young gobblers will weigh 



PEOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 249 

twenty-five pounds at about six months of age, and 
hens about thirteen or fourteen pounds. Turkeys, un- 
like chickens, grow all winter, and make weight for the 
food they consume. The bronze do not fully get their 
weight until they are about three years old. At ma- 
turity, hens weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds, and 
gobblers from thirty to forty pounds each. 

In most sections turkeys are very profitable, and 
no doubt their weight can be made from about the 
same feed and trouble that is given to the rearing of 
small common turkeys. It pays to keep the best 
blooded stock, as we get much larger returns from our 
outlay. We give it as a fact, which many persons do 
not understand, that turkeys shrink considerably when 
shipped to market, as being nervous they eat little, and 
the journey worries them, but they soon recover. 
Customers are apt to weigh them upon receipt, and 
many a seller gets abused for sending lighter weights 
than he represented, when it was owing to the shrink- 
age of the birds. They should not be weighed under 
three or four weeks of good keeping after their arrival 
on a new place. Shrinking happens the same with 
other fowls, too. 

DISEASED POULTRY THEIR SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT. 

All kinds of poultry, especially chickens and tur- 
keys, are subject to diseases similar to those of the 
hog, (known as cholera and roup,) and they are as in- 
fectious or contagious with them as with hogs. This 
view of the matter suggests the propriety of adopting 
such measures with the first cases in a locality as shall 
prevent the spreading of the disease in any way. The 
diseased, in any case, should be kept apart from the 
healthy ones until they have well recovered, and upon 
the appearance of the disease should be cared for im- 
mediately. Fowls show signs of sickness immediately 
after they are attacked. Perfect health with poultry 



250 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

is best shown by the bright scarlet color of the comb, 
their cheerfulness and elasticity of step. As soon as 
the fowl feels unwell the comb changes color, at first 
pale and then purple, and they refuse to eat or leave 
the roost, often remaining there until death. 

HOW TO TELL A SICK FOWL. 

The comb and wattles are the parts of a fowl to ex- 
amine first in case of sickness, as they should always 
be of a bright scarlet color. When the comb looks 
white, pale, or black, something is wrong; even lice 
will cause the comb to change color to a certain ex- 
tent. A refusal of food (for no healthy fowl will re- 
fuse to eat if fed on a variety of food unless already 
full), is a sure indication of disease. Thirst, to a great 
degree, is another sign; and a nervous, uneasy look is 
also a warning. A sick fowl often drinks to excess, 
especially when attacked with cholera; but again at 
other times it refuses both food and drink. Some- 
times a hen will go moping about with drooping wings 
with no other signs of sickness than that of the comb. 
Whenever the comb does not show a bright scarlet^ 
and the fowl is not lively, it should be examined and 
treated immediately. Delay is dangerous with fowls, 
and sickness among them is hard to eradicate if not 
driven off early. A fowl may suffer from a want of 
certain food which it cannot get in confinement, and 
unless gratified will show signs of sickness. For this 
reason, often change of food will effect a cure. 

• CHOLERA. 

This name is given to a disorder of obscure origin 
and character, which has proved itself to be one of the 
most rapidly destructive known to poultry keepers. It 
was by far the most common in the South and West, 
where also it was 'most fatal, but it has often appeared 
in the Eastern and Middle States, and is now becom- 
ing very' common. The causes of the disease do not 



PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 251 

need to be detailed here at any great length. Any- 
thing that tends to lower the constitutional vigor of 
the fowl will render it liable to an accession of this dis- 
ase. Unwholesome food, impure and stagnant water 
as a drink, exposure to the weather or to the depress- 
ing heat of the sun without shade, all of these causes 
increase the liability of the fowl to this disease, as well 
as to many others. The young and more restless 
birds are first attacked, although no age is exempt. 
And very large and highfed fowls soon fall victims. 
On damp and clay soil the disease is more prevalent 
than on sandy or gravel soil. 

Among the causes most prominent in fostering the 
disease is, an over-crowded condition of the coops, and 
allowing them to become very filthy. In the first 
place, such a condition of things is directly depressing 
to the fowls. In the second place, the bad air makes 
good soil for the development of poisonous " germs." 
Cholera has been known, however, to attack flocks that 
are not kept in houses at all. Such cases can be ex- 
plained by the fact that fowls thus kept are generally 
badly protected from the weather. Cholera seems to 
be most prevalent in very hot and in very dry seasons. 
It is infectious, but the infection does not seem to 
travel far. Fowls roosting near others sick with cholera 
catch it, but whether from them or their droppings 
does not appear. Scientists say "it is only infectious 
or contagious through the discharges, or by eating 
portions of those that have died with the disease, or 
by eating flies, worms, or other insests that contain the 
blood of the diseased ones." 

Observers of eminence are of the opinion that it 
depends on a special poison, which comes into the 
fowl from without; that this special poison first affects 
the blood, and that the deteriorated blood produces the 
changes in the liver, and so forth, which constitute the 



252 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

disease. It is called cholera, because, as in the Asiatic 
cholera of the human race, it is accompanied by much 
diarrhoea, is very fatal, and attacks many individuals 
at a time, but yet it is altogether a different disease. 
The name cholera, to which we have become well ac- 
customed, is probably as good as any that can be 
devised. The organ most changed is the liver. This 
is found enlarged, dark green, full of dark blood, con- 
gested and usually very tender; it can be very easily 
crushed in the hand. The gizzard is soft, and some- 
times much smaller than it should be, and contains 
half digested food. The crop and intestines are often 
full of sour, fermenting food, and ulcerated. The con- 
dition of the liver is the main thing to be noted. Of 
course, you will find the brain, nerves and lungs more 
or less congested, full of darker blood than usual, and 
the heart, perhaps, enlarged. The liver is not only the 
organ the most changed, but seems to be the first 
attacked. It comes suddenly; in some cases a fowl 
well to-day may be dead to-morrow, and a whole flock 
may be thus rapidly carried off. 

The discharges at first are yellowish green, or like 
sulphur and water, becoming thinner, greener, and 
more frothy as the disease goes on. The breathing be- 
comes heavy and fast, the crop fills with mucus and 
wind, the food is not digested, the eyes close, and in a 
few hours the fowl dies. There is weakness, sometimes 
extreme; the fowl may be unable to stand well, and 
have a general sleepy, moping appearance. There is 
much fever, great thirst, and a rapid, weak pulse. 

Treatment: Use my Cholera Remedy as directed, 
twice a day in soft food, and separate the sick from the 
well ones, and thoroughly renovate, as far as practic- 
able, the roosting places, by removing all the manure 
and hauling it away, and whitewashing the roosts and 
houses, and sprinkling the floor with copperas water ? 



PKOFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 253 

carbolic acid, or lime. I will not say this treatment 
will save all those that are attacked, which it often 
does, but I will say it will do more than any other 
treatment that has ever come under my observation. 

ROUP. 

During damp weather the roup sometimes makes 
its appearance, even when the fowls have received the 
best care that can be bestowed. There are many 
forms of roup, and it becomes contagious in flocks 
when allowed its way unchecked; but the mild form is 
usually a cold, the symptoms being a stoppage of the 
nostrils, which gives the well known hoarse breathing, 
with the mouth opened. It sometimes appears also as 
a disease of the throat, and other times the eyes and 
head are affected, in all cases attended by general de- 
bility, loss of appetite and depressed spirits. The most 
essential object should be to separate the sick fowls 
from the others and remove them to a dry, warm loca- 
tion, feeding on soft, nutritious food. Then use the 
medicine as directed for cholera, which will give relief, 
or the treatment as given for Gapes is excellent. 

GAPES. 

This disease with poultry only occurs with the 
young, and is caused by a worm in the wind-pipe, and 
can only be cured by the inhaling of medicine or by 
the removal of the worm by hand. Some of the best 
methods I have ever seen to remove this trouble are 
as follows, either of which is very effective: First, 
take — 

One teaspoonful of corbolic acid, 
One of powdered asafoetia, and 
One tablespoonful of castor oil. 

Put this in a quart of soft food (except corn meal) and 
feed twice a day; use some carbolic acid about the 
drinking vessels, and keep the chicks inclosed until 
the dew is off the grass. Second, put fine air-slacked 



254 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 

lime in a barrel, then put the chickens in, cover it up, 
and shake it around so they will inhale the lime dust. 
Third, take a horse hair, make it double, insert it in 
the wind-pipe and twist it around a few times to 
catch the worm and by this means remove it. Either 
of these methods are good if practiced with care. 

SCURVEY LEGS. 

This disease is somewhat similar to the mange on 
hogs, and is caused very often by filthy pou'ltry houses 
and yards. Treatment: Take coal oil and lard, equal 
parts; to one-half pint of this mixture add one table- 
spoonful of carbolic acid, and give the legs a thorough 
application of it. Once will be sufficient to cure an 
ordinary case. Leg weakness is something that young 
fowls are frequently subject to, especially the larger 
breeds. To prevent this, feed plenty of bone dust or 
ground oyster shells and oats. 

Indigestion and Giddiness: Caused by eating too 
much corn or too highly seasoned food. Symptoms, 
loss of apetite, seem dull and stupid, often running 
wildly about. Treatment: Feed sparingly with light 
food, and use the cholera remedy as directed, or use 
the remedy as given for gapes. 



American Sheep 



A TREATISE ON 



SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 



ITS PROFITABLENESS, WITH PRACTICAL INFORMATION AS TO 

BREEDING, AND HANDLING, ALSO THE ORIGIN AND 

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VARIOUS BREEDS, 

WITH SUGGESTIONS AS TO FEED 

AND CARE. 



CHAPTER XV. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 



Sheep Husbandry — Why Wool Growers do Not Fail— Information 
as to Breeding — Rearing and Handling — Origin and Charac- 
teristics of the Different Breeds— Suggestions as to Feed- 
ing and Care. 



SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

HEEP husbandry in the United States is becom- 
ing one of the great pursuits of this country. 
In former years the entire interest in raising 
sheep was for the wool clip, but of late years the pro- 
duction of mutton has been given some attention, and 
is annually increasing. The Americans give more at- 
tention to the production of wool than mutton, while 
in England the reverse is the case. This is only a 
natural result of the conditions of the markets and 
surroundings. England is the best mutton market in 
the world, while wool commands the best prices in the 
United States. That these conditions will change is 
not a matter of very much doubt, especially in the 
East, and near large cities, where there is a demand 
for mutton, and especially lambs, but still the time has 
not come yet, when mutton sheep are as profitable in 
this country as in England. The American demand 
now seems to be for a sheep which grows the finest 
fleece on a medium carcass, producing both wool and 
mutton. Wool must be, for some time to come, of at 
least equal importance with mutton; and in many 
portions of the country, from necessity, especially in 



258 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

the far west, away from the meat raising markets, the 
wool must be the main object. 

With this business, as with any other, the question 
is often asked, Does sheep raising pay? Judging from 
the reports as given from all parts of the country one 
year with another, it is very doubtful if the breeding 
and raising of any other stock pays any better for the 
capital invested than that of raising sheep. Mutton, 
it is claimed, by the aid of a good fleece, should be 
raised cheaper on the high-priced lands of the Eastern 
States than beef on the cheap lands of the far West. 
While in the far West, where sheep are raised on a 
larger scale upon the cheap lands, it is claimed they 
pay one hundred per cent, upon the capital invested. 
If these claims are true, and no doubt they are, sheep 
husbandry is without question profitable. 

WHY WOOL GROWERS DO NOT FAIL. 

Another question which is often asked, is why wool 
growers do not fail, as other business men do; and is 
answered by a wool grower: " Simply because the 
growth of wool and increase is as perpetual as the 
times in which they live. It matters not how dark 
the night is, the wool continues to grow; and it mat- 
ters not how the wind blows, or how it may storm, 
gestation is never longer than one hundred and fifty 
days. The lambs will average one-half females, and 
often twins, and they breed the next year, making 
' double compound,' a perpetual growth and no loss. 
Everything that does not go into market goes to enrich 
pastures. Though the landlord may be sick, it does 
not stop the growth of the wool and lambs." Not so 
with other business. The merchant, mechanic, or the 
man who works for a salary, has nothing to grow while 
he sleeps. When his labor ceases his income stops, 
and his expenses are perpetual. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 259 

It is true there are perpetual expenses attending 
the sheep business, but under the most unfavorable 
circumstances, where they can live on the cheap grass 
lands without feeding, the meat of the wethers will pay 
all expenses without drawing on the wool or increase 
of the ewes. Hence it is like a perpetual stream flow- 
ing into a basin. It is only a question of time about 
filling it to overflowing. The great drawback seems to 
be that men do not relish living away from thickly 
populated settlements and towns, depriving themselves 
of society for the sake of making money. This objec- 
tion can be obviated in all new countries. There are 
villages constantly springing up near which good 
sheep farms can be had, where the owner can visit his 
flock daily and also give his family the benefit of 
schools and society. There are many such now on 
the plains and one is reminded of the patriarchal days, 
for there is no lack of society among the shepherds and 
in the family, and the long summer days and evenings 
are pleasant. In short, the way to success and happi- 
ness is to build up an independent civilization. To a 
man of energy and some means, such a life is pleasant 
and attractive. It is hard to answer the common in- 
quiry as to what the profits of the business are. As 
much depends upon the individual care and manage- 
ment, as in any other business ; but I am safe in say- 
ing one hundred per cent, per annum net profit is 
realized by wool-growers who make a permanent busi- 
ness of it. Many intelligent wool-growers are of the 
opinion that should wool yield only twenty cents per 
pound they would have a more pleasant, certain and 
remunerative business than any other branch of agri- 
culture in these United States. 

Taking the judgment of those who follow the busi- 
ness, there is no doubt but that sheep husbandry, 
judiciously and scientifically followed, is one of the 



260 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

best paying pursuits of the American people, and 
especially with the western shepherd, who follows it on 
an extensive scale, or with the general farmer who is 
engaged in mixed husbandry. 

Sheep are especially suited to the small farmer, 
and to the farmer of limited means, on account of the 
small amount of capital and limited range necessary 
to provide for a small flock. As it is a well known 
fact that, with the keeping of sheep, the land does not 
deteriorate, but its fertility is constantly increased. 
So that on lands which have been used as sheep walks, 
when a crop of any kind of grain is desired, a marked 
increase is invariably noticed, as sheep distribute their 
droppings more evenly than cattle, and on the highest 
ground, where they are most needed. 

Again, sheep are closer feeders than any other farm 
stock and great foragers, consuming a greater variety 
of food than any other stock; thus often proving bene- 
ficial as well as profitable in reclaiming an old farm, 
or one which is covered over with briars, and it will 
pay well to purchase a flock of sheep to aid in sub- 
duing them. 

A comparison was made by Linnseus, the natural- 
ist, as to what kind of stock ate the greatest variety of 
forage. He found: The horse ate 274 species of 
ordinary forage plants, and rejected 212; cattle ate 
276, and rejected 218; while sheep ate 387 species, and 
refused but 141. 

The value of the different foods for sheep is a mat- 
ter of no small amount, and one on which the success 
of the flocks depends more than on any other in the 
far West or elsewhere, when kept in large numbers. 
In the present state of the flock industry every experi- 
ment looking toward the cheapness of foods should be 
eagerly welcomed, and no doubt the fodder, sorghum, 
root, alfalfa, and millet crops will play an important 






TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 261 

part in furnishing this cheap food. Two sheep can be 
raised where one is raised now, if judiciously cared 
for, and shepherds would do well to try, on a small 
scale at least, the crops mentioned. Good corn fodder 
is an excellent sheep food. It is loosening, cooling, 
and relieves constipation, and early made, properly 
cured and stored hay, either clover, timothy, or millet, 
is far superior to matured hay for sheep. 

It has been proven by actual experiment that beets 
or turnips can be raised, lifted, and stored for six cents 
per bushel. At this cost they certainly are a profitable 
food for sheep, and any one who has not tried raising 
and feeding them to sheep, cannot have a full ap- 
preciation of the benefit derived from this cheap food, 
and in the increased thrift of their stock. There can 
be no doubt of the advantage of the English method 
of feeding compared with ours, if we compare their 
immense fat muttons with ours; and in all the feeding 
districts of the English provinces, beets and turnips 
are fed in immense quantities. But in attempting to 
cheapen the cost of rearing the flock, the wool and the 
carcass should not be forgotten, but let them be 
steadily improved each year. Sheep breeding and 
wool growing are arts which allow of no half-way 
measures ; but the whole attention of the breeder must 
be given to the management and care of his flock, if 
he expects the highest success. 

INFORMATION AS TO BREEDING. 

In breeding sheep, as with other stock, every one 
should be governed somewhat by the situation. The 
eastern farmer, or those living near large cities, where 
they have the advantage of a good meat market, can 
no doubt make the production of mutton more profit- 
able than that of wool, or the farmer who keeps a few 
sheep can give them better attention than where large 
flocks are kept; and perhaps those farmers who cannot 



262 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

well keep large numbers could handle the mutton 
breeds to better advantage. They require just such 
treatment as these farmers are best prepared to give 
them. 

Information from different sections goes to show 
that the consumption of mutton has increased greatly 
of late years. Is not this due, in a great extent, to the 
improved quality of the mutton? If so, cannot the 
demand be much further stimulated by feeding the 
people on better mutton still? 

As said before, the English sheep breeders pay more 
attention to mutton than wool. If we, in this country, 
would follow their example, we would hear no more 
clamoring about the tariff on wool. It is bad enough 
to fear Australia, with thousands of miles between her 
shores and ours, but the difficulty lies in our failure to 
realize all that is possible from the sheep industry, 
and our failure to breed a better mutton sheep and to 
select and grade up the quality. The Oxfords, Shrop- 
shires, Hampshires and Southdowns are becoming 
numerous, and are as far superior to the scrubs as an 
electric light is to a tallow candle. Not only do they 
possess size, but certain characteristics that improve 
the quality of the carcass and enable the breeder to 
secure a higher price for excellence, as well as a 
greater profit for weight. 

It is not altogether the weight that breeders must 
consider, though weight is a very desirable matter. 
We wish, in our markets, better mutton, of a juicy, 
marbled, attractive quality, that commands a sale as 
soon as it arrives, and which will always be in demand. 
Such mutton is as easily produced as that which is in- 
ferior, and we are safe in guaranteeing a heavier fleece 
also. The lambs from the improved breeds, or grades, 
are also more saleable than those from natives, to say 
nothing of their rapid growth and heavy weight at 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 263 

an early age. I have alluded to this subject for the 
purpose of advising the farmers to endeavor to raise 
better mutton, for by so doing they can laugh to scorn 
the tariff, and derive a larger revenue in a single season 
from mutton than they can from wool in twice that 
length of time. For lambs properly bred and raised, 
now bring as much in the early market as sheep one 
and two years old. 

THE COUPLING SEASON. 

Where the highest type of perfection of offspring is 
desired, the condition surrounding their begettal needs 
to be looked after as carefully as those necessary to 
their proper and rapid development after birth. As a 
rule it is not good policy to allow rams to run with the 
flock during the coupling season. When so allowed, all 
control over the crosses is surrendered. The heavier 
and more pugnacious rams soon become masters of the 
situation,. though not without much injury to themsel- 
ves, as well as their weaker antagonists. Rams that have 
quietly lived together all the previous season will be 
found no exception to this rule when turned with a 
flock of ewes during the rutting time. Add to this 
the further fact that much vigor is expended by re- 
peated service to the same ewe, but little experience is 
required to predict an offspring lacking in some of the 
characteristics of lambs begotten under more favorable 
conditions. When but one ram is to be used, and the 
service required of him quite limited, say not more 
than twenty-five ewes, the lazy man's policy of ' turn- 
ing in '' may find some excuse; but then only with the 
understanding that he is separated from the flock dur- 
ing the night, that both ewes and ram may have the 
rest requisite to a proper discharge of their reproduc- 
tive functions- We are aware that a different course 
is generally pursued, the exception being found among 
those breeding high-priced animals, but are satisfle 



264 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

that it is so pursued at a loss to flock-masters in delay- 
ing the building up of a thrifty and profitable flock. 

SELECTING A RAM. 

A sheep-grower gives the following points in select- 
ing a ram: ''Every discreet shepherd who is about to 
purchase a ram seeks three desiderata: First, the 
maxium of wool with the minimum of yolk. Second, 
the greatest amount of muscle done up in the least 
wrapping of skin. Third, an animal that will repro- 
duce himself the great amount of times, i. e., constitu- 
tion, wool, mutton. In a humid climate one dare not 
concede a single point in constitution. Unless the 
flock-master has personal knowledge of the animal's 
exceptional vigor, he should demand good barrel, 
ribs well sprung out, eyes large and prominent, and 
square rump, body coupled up rather short, ears thick 
and soft, and they and the face covered with fine, 
white, silky hair. But in the skin resides the surest 
test. I have known a ram to have nearly all the 
above points and yet be delicate; but I never knew one 
having a bright rosy skin to be lacking in robustness." 

THE EWES. 

The ewes should be bred so as to have the lambs 
come as early in the season as possible, so they can be 
saved; better lose two in the spring than one in the 
fall. As the ewes near parturition they should bo well 
fed, with an occasional feed of laxative food, roots, or 
oil meal and bran. They should be provided with 
shelter during lambing time, and so arranged that they 
can be kept warm at cold times. In case they have 
any difficulty in lambing they should not be assisted 
for at least a few hours, but let nature alone. When 
any assistance is given, let it be with caution and gen- 
tleness, In case of any trouble or sickness, refer to 
the veterinary department of this work for instructions. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 267 

After lambing a ewe should not move about much. 
If she is weak / give her some good whisky or whisky 
gruel. If her teats are closed against the efforts of 
the lamb, try and squeeze them out with the wetted 
fingers; or in case they have grown shut, open them 
with a knitting needle, being careful not to insert the 
needle too far. If they are inflamed, bathe with some 
cooling lotion, and hold her while the lamb nurses. If 
she disowns the lamb, or is wanted to adopt another, 
shut her up with her lamb away from the other sheep, 
and hold her while it nurses. Bathe her nose and the 
lamb's with whisky, which will sometimes bring her to 
terms. 

THE LAMBS. 

New born lambs that can help themselves should 
not be interfered with. If so weak they cannot stand, 
they should be held up to nurse, and in case the ewe 
has no milk, use a nursing bottle with a gum nipple; 
these are now sold by dealers, and should be kept in 
readiness for use. The milk of the cow, fresh and 
warm, is just right for the lamb. It should be given 
often, but too much should not be given at a time. If 
the lamb be chilled by the cold, it should be taken in 
the house to the fire and cared for, by warming and 
feeding it. When quite weak give it milk and a little 
whisky, which will soon restore it. 

In castrating lambs, there are two methods used. I 
have seen both performed with good success. Neither 
one is difficult, and can be done by any farmer. The 
first is to cut off the lower end of the scrotum, press 
the testicles upward and make an incision in the inner 
skin and thus remove them, the same as is done with 
a pig. The other plan is, after removing the end of 
the scrotum as usual, seize the testicles with a pair of 
pincers, and remove them by a quick jerk, without 
cutting the inner skin. This is thought by some to be 



268 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY, 

the best method that can be used, but it is more 
severe. 

WEANING LAMBS. 

They should be weaned at four months of age, and 
put on a good piece of fresh grass. In absence of this, 
or when a rapid growth is desired, they should be fed 
on green fodder, roots, or grain, so as to keep them 
growing fast until matured. This is the great secret 
of raising sheep or other stock — early maturity. As 
cold weather approaches, they should be sheltered and 
well cared for. 

THE MUTTON BREEDS. 

The improved mutton breeds which have found 
most favor in the United States, are of the long or 
middle wool. Of the former, the Leicesters, Cotswolds, 
and New Oxfordshires; of the latter the Southdowns, 
Hampshires, and Shropshires. The Leicester sheep 
are unexcelled in earliness of maturity, and none make 
better returns for the amount of food consumed than 
they do, but they require better shelter and care than 
any other variety. The ewes are neither so prolific, 
nor so good nurses, as those of other mutton families, 
and the lambs are delicate and hard to raise. The 
mutton is only medium in quality, owing to the great 
amount of fat. The fleeces are composed of a long 
combing wool, and average with select flocks, about 
ten pounds each. 

THE COTSWOLDS. 

The Cotswolds are a larger, harder and more pro- 
lific sheep than the Leicester, and the ewes are better 
mothers; their wool is valuable for combing use, but 
the fleece is no heavier than that of the Leicester, but 
their mutton is far superior, as it is not so fat, and the 
fat is better intermixed with the lean meat. They are 
much used in crossing other breeds and varieties, and 
are decidedly the favorite long wool sheep of America. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 269 

The Lincolns are as large as the Cotswolds, though in 
other respects, as now bred, very strongly resemble 
the Leicester; but the fleece is longer and heavier, and 
unsurpassed in luster, commanding, therefore, among 
the best prices in the market. 

THE SOUTHDOWNS. 

The Southdowns are the oldest established short- 
wooled, improved mutton variety. In size they rank 
with the Cotswold, but have a lighter fleece. Their 
mutton is very choice, and commands a better price 
than that of any other breed. They are hardy, good 
feeders, and excellent nurses. 




THE HAMPSHIRE-DOWNS. 

This family is the result of a cross between the 
Southdowns and a long-wooled English variety of 
greater size and better constitution. They are coarser 
than the Southdowns, but possess nearly all the good 
qualities of that breed and are hardier, and the mutton 
commands a good price. The Shropshire was also pro- 
duced by a cross of the Southdowns with a hardy, 
short- wooled stock; and some have a dip of the Leices- 
ter and Cotswold blood. They are large, and unite to 
an uncommon degree the good qualities of the short 
and long wools. Their mutton is of good quality, and 
the ewes prolific and good mothers. The Oxford- 
downs are a comparatively new family, and are a cross 
between the Hampshires, Southdowns or Shropshires, 
and their characteristics are about the same as the 



270 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

Shopshires, though they vary some in their appearance 
and quality. 

THE MERINO. 

The American Merino is a descendant of the old 
Spanish or French Merinos, judiciously crossed and 
bred almost exclusively for the production of wool. 
They are a small, compact, hardy breed, with a very 
dense fleece, shearing some eight pounds per head, of 
a short, oily wool. The Merino is well adapted to be 
kept in large numbers upon the plains, or rough, poor 
land. They are great walkers, traveling a long ways for 
food, and are freer from disease than the larger mutton 
breeds. Almost all sheep demand for their health dry 
land, but with the Merino, dry land is indispensable. 
There may be wet land in their range, but they must 
not be confined to it. They will thrive on less feed 
than other breeds, and can travel further to obtain it. 
Hence they are well suited for all countries where 
sheep raising is done on a large scale. The ewes are 
very prolific, good sucklers, and the lambs hardy. 
The Merino, on account of its density of fleece, with 
which it is well protected, and its hardiness in consti- 
tution can stand more exposure than other breeds. 
The Merino cannot be matured under three years; and 
this makes it necessary that this breed must always 
remain a large producer of wool, and any course of 
breeding tending to lessen the fleece is a move in the 
downward direction. A noted breeder says he " be- 
lieves that the continual use of smooth, long-wool rams 
is contrary to the correct principles of breeding, and 
always results disastrously, and what sheep breeders 
had yet to learn was that they needed density of fleece, 
more than length of staple." Mutton sheep, to do 
well, require richer soils than the Merino, and those 
yielding regular and good food, but they most all do 
better on rich upland than on low land. 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 



273 



What constitutes a good sheep? This is a very im- 
portant question, yet perhaps no one could give an 
answer which would be satisfactory to all sheep-breed- 
ers. One breeder admires size and symmetry, another 
desires to breed a medium sheep, good for mutton, 
with medium fleece, while another cares nothing for 
the carcass as long as he can grow a fine fleece of the 
greatest weight. A sheep adapted to every section 
and to every breeder's surroundings cannot be grown 
in the same animal, so that a description of a breed 
which would be one man's ideal perhaps would be en- 
tirely unsuitable to any other man or his surroundings. 

A good cross is obtained, when early maturing 
lambs or size is wanted, by using a Costwold buck, or a 
buck of either of the down breeds, with Merino, or 
common ewes. The fecundity and excellent nursing 
qualities of these ewes give them the first place in 
breeding for early lambs; or a common flock of sheep 
can be bred up to a great improvement by the use of a 
pure buck of the characteristics desired, and the best 
ewes of that cross retained and bred to another good 
buck of the same breed. 




A COTSWOLD RAM. 

The realization of profit does not always depend 
upon immediate results. The breeding of a common 
flock to a profitable basis requires some time and 
means; but the end should be more carefully kept in 
view than immediate profit. The flock should be care- 
fully sorted each year, and nothing but the best re- 



274 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

tained for breeding purposes. Sometimes large prices 
can be obtained by letting a breeder take the pick of 
the flock, but this would be worse than folly, and 
would ruin the prospects for years to come. The flock 
should be graded up to a high standard, even at con- 
siderable cost; and it should be remembered that the 
choice of the flock which has been bred so carefully for 
years is worth more to the owner than anyone else. 

In breeding it is always best to give both the sub- 
ject and the flock some study, and learn exactly what 
class of wool your flock now clips, and what kind 
would pay you best to raise, then breed for this type 
alone. This is very important in securing an even 
clip of wool of average quality. This, of course, can- 
not be done in one season. But by carefully select- 
ing the breeding flock and using a ram of the same 
type of wool in a short time the flock can be bred up to 
such a point of excellence that their fleeces will be 
uniform in quality and difficult to tell one from 
another. Until such is the case, or as long as in sort- 
ing, a part of each fleece has to be thrown into a 
separate pile, or as long as a mongrel clip is raised ? 
just so long will the wool have to be sold at a dis- 
advantage. 

SUGGESTIONS AS TO FEEDING AND CARE. 

Good shelter, as well as food and water, is indis- 
pensable for sheep in the winter time. Their feed 
should be composed of a variety of foods, hay, corn- 
fodder, corn, oats, mill-feed, and roots, intermixed and 
given regularly. The sheep is exceedingly neat and 
even fastidious about its food and drink, and hence 
should have only the best, with grass and clear run- 
ning water. Though they use less water than other 
animals, often passing whole days without it, yet it is 
none the less necessary for their comfort and health 
that it should be accessible. Salt regularly twice a 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 275 

week, or keep rock salt where they will have free ac- 
cess to it, as it is essential to their health. 

In growing sheep, the first requisite is an intelli- 
gent shepherd; the second, good sheep, and third, good 
care, including good feeding. This states in " a few 
words all there is in sheep-growing; but those un- 
versed in the matter would be surprised to find out 
just how much intelligence and skill, how much care 
and feed, and how much capital is invested in rearing 
a fine flock to produce profitable results. The spring 
is the time when sheep require the most careful atten- 
tion, and is also the season in which, as a rule, there is 
the greatest mortality among them. At this season 
the sheep are weakened in vitality by the long winter's 
cold and storms, and their system is not able to with- 
stand the climatical changes which occur at this time; 
and unless very carefully tended they must succumb, 
in their weak and debilitated state, to the inevitable. 
The sheep now should have an increase of grain food, 
and their feed be changed, and some kind given them 
which will tempt their appetite. The weak ones should 
put by themselves and receive extra care. 

In turning sheep out to grass in the spring, it 
should be done only an hour or two during the day at 
first. In this way they are not so liable to scour, as 
the change from dry to green food is less sudden. If 
they do scour when turned out upon grass, feed some 
corn and bran, dry, which will check it. 

The sheep should be prepared for the summer by 
being tagged in early spring, before being turned on 
grass, their feet trimmed, and the animals carefully 
watched, that maggots do not get on them and destroy 
them. One principal argument for early shearing is 
that it obviates all trouble with these dangerous pests 
of the flock. Nothing is more conducive to the wel- 
fare of the flock than just such management as will 



276 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

always keep the sheep comfortable, thrifty and in good 
health. If this is done nothing more is needed to in- 
sure the highest condition and profitableness of the 
flock, according to its grade. It is important that the 
flocks be carefully sorted, and the weak sheep not 
allowed to run with the stronger ones. Sheep of 
different ages and conditions should be separated into 
separate flocks, and the weaker ones have a little extra 
food. Old sheep ought to be in a lot by themselves so 
as to take time to eat their feed, for, like old men and 
women, they require more time to eat. Feed a half 
bushel of grain morning and evening to fifty head; 
this is enough in one lot to feed right and do well. 

In culling out the flocks in the spring, about as 
good disposal as can be made of the culls is to fatten 
them off on grass. They can be fattened very rapidly, 
as well as cheapily, on good grass, with the aid of some 
grain twice a day, and the local butchers will, as a 
rule, pay a fair price for such muttons. Dispose of all 
the yearling underlings. The reason for parting with 
yearling underlings is this: They are liable to breed 
disease among the flock, and nothing should be re 
tained unsightly to the eye of the flock-master. The 
more evenly sheep are graded, the more evenly will 
they thrive. 

The day has gone by when a man's flocks are esti- 
mated and valued by their numbers. Henceforth it 
will be the income that each sheep will yield that will 
determine the value of the flock, whether it be in wool 
or mutton. Therefore keep none but the best, and re- 
member that good sheep require good care to maintain 
their excellence, or they will soon deteriorate. 

Do not undertake to keep sheep on low, undrained 
lands. They will surely contract disease, and a sick 
sheep is about as mean a thing as I know of, a sick hog 
not excepted. There is nothing more injurious to a 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 277 

sheep than to lie on wet ground or a fermenting 
manure pile. Therefore keep them well bedded. They, 
above all other stock, must have dry and comfortable 
quarters. 

Frequently advise is given farmers to pasture their 
orchards with sheep. Any one having the least prac- 
tical knowledge of the nature of sheep knows that 
they would much rather peel a nice, thrifty young 
apple tree than eat the most tender grass, and that 
they will even peel quite large trees. Therefore, 
they should never have access to the orchard. A 
change of pasture is good for them, but remember 
that the orchard is not the proper place to resort to, 
and that medium short grass, on high or dryland, suits 
them best. In the fall, if the pasture fails, do not put 
off feeding them hay or grain too late, unless a good 
crop of pelts is wanted in the spring. 

THINGS TO BE REMEMBERED. 

First, keep sheep dry under foot with litter. This 
is more necessary than roofing them. Never let them 
stand or lie in mud or water. Second, count them 
every day, and if any are missing, hunt them up and 
see what ails them. If any sheep are hurt, catch 
them at once and wash the wound; and if it is fly- 
time, apply spirits of turpentine daily, or wash with a 
solution of carbolic acid. If a limb is broken, bind it 
with splints tightly, loosening as the limb swells, and 
bath with arnica to reduce the fever. Third, feed 
grain, if one-half of the sheep has to be sold to buy 
grain for the other half, but begin with the greatest 
care, and use small quantities at first, and gradually 
increase up to full feed. Fourth, separate all the sick, 
weak, or inferior ones from the strong and give them 
special care; rye and oats for weak or old sheep is an 
excellent feed in cold weather. Fifth, take up the 
lamb bucks early in the summer, and keep them con- 



278 TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 

fined until December following, when they may be 
turned out. Sixth, keep a number of good bells on 
the sheep, as they are a protection against dogs, and, 
if possible, every night bring them up and put them 
in an enclosure for protection. Seventh, never let the 
sheep spoil their wool with chaff or burs. Remember 
that burs in the wool are removed only by machinery, 
and therefore reduce its value. Cut away the weeds 
that produce them. Eighth, if a ewe loses her lamb, 
milk her daily for a few days, mixing a little alum 
with her salt, and bathe her udder with lard and cam- 
phor, which will remove the fever. Ninth, have the 
lambs come as early as possible, so they can be saved. 
The early lambs require more attention than late ones; 
but when fine fat lambs are finished in time to meet 
the early market it is doubtful whether any other 
kind of stock pays better. Tenth, give the lambs a 
little mill-feed in time of weaning. In preparing them 
for market, keep in mind that the more flesh that can 
be put on them the better prices they will command. 
This is, in reality, much more important than extreme 
size. Eleventh, let no hogs eat with the sheep in the 
spring, by any means. Twelfth, never frighten sheep, 
if you possibly can avoid it, and kill all the dogs that 
bother them, your own not excepted. Thirteenth, cut 
tag locks in early spring, which will prevent foulness 
or maggots. Fourteenth, for scours, give ginger and 
powdered charcoal in wheat bran; prevent by taking 
care in changing dry for green food. Fifteenth, if one 
is lame, examine the foot; clean out thoroughly the 
hoofs, and if unsound, apply tobacco with blue vitrol 
boiled in a little water. Never buy lame sheep and bring 
them on the farm, as by this means foot rot is spread. 
Sixteenth, shear at once any sheep beginning to shed 
tis wool unless the weather is too severe, and save care- 
fully the pelt of any that die. Seventeenth, the wool 



TREATISE ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY. 279 

business is not likely to be overdone in this country, 
as we do not now supply our demands, and the mar- 
ket will increase as rapidly as the supply, therefore 
endeavor to increase the quantity and quality of 
the wool by careful selection and judicions breeding. 
Eighteenth, the crossing of the long wools and Merinos 
cannot be done without sacrificing the fineness and 
combing qualities of the fleece. Wool is a commodity 
— a manufactured article, which requires the highest 
intelligence and skill in the production of a fine article 
and therefore cannot be procured without much study 
and care. Nineteenth, have at least one good work on 
sheep, to which you can refer, as in this progressive 
age, no one can make the raising of stock a success 
without some study. 




American Cattle 



A TREATISE ON 



THE CATTLE INDUSTRY, 

OF AMERICA, 



CONSISTING OF A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS BREEDS, AND 

THERE CHARACTERISTICS WITH PRACTICAL INFORMATION 

AS TO BREEDING, GROWING AND FEEDING; ALSO 

THE MOST APPROVED MODERN METHODS 

OF DAIRYING. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 



The Cattle Industry — Different Breeds and Their Character 
istics — Famous Cows and Steers — How to Select Breeders — 
Practical Breeding, Growing, and Feeding Suggestions— Man- 
agement of Bull, Cows, and Calves. 




THE CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

k HE growing of cattle in North America has be- 
come one of the great live stock industries of 
the world. The congeniality of the climate, as 
well as the soil, in most all parts of North America are 
such as to produce abundance of grass and feed, and 
thereby render the growing of cattle profitable; and 
the lastfew years have shown a great increase in this 
industry. Not only has the natural increase of popu- 
lation and the advance of civilization greatly increased 
the production of cattle, but men of immense fortunes, 
both in America and foreign countries, have embarked 
in the business of raising cattle in large numbers upon 
the vast plains of the West for the production of beef; 
and now herds of one, and even ten, thousand head 
are of no common occurrence. Following this great 
increase of the production of cattle, naturally has come 
the introduction of the strains of good blood, and now 
America is well represented with large and numerous 
herds of purely bred cattle of all the improved breeds; 
namely, the Short-horns, Herfords, Polled Angus, Gal- 
loways, Red-Polled and Devons, which represent the 
beef breeds; while the Holsteins, Jerseys, Guernseys 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 281 

and Ayrshires represent the dairy breeds. The char- 
acteristics of all these cattle are such as to well adapt 
them to the wants of the American people when purely 
bred or crossed upon our native stock. The most of 
these cattle are too well known to a majority of our 
readers to demand any special description or com- 
ment, but I will give a brief description of each breed, 
as to their origin and characteristics, for the benefit of 
those who may not be well acquainted with them, and 
who may be contemplating the purchase of some of the 
new breeds. 

SHORT-HORNS. 

The short-horn is one of the oldest and best estab- 
lished improved breeds of cattle known. They first 
originated in England, and were known as the Tees- 
water or Durham cattle. Charles and Robert Colling 
were the first and most successful breeders of these 
most famous cattle, commencing about one hundred 
years ago. The bull Hubback, the founder of the 
breed, was purchased in 1785 by Charles Colling at a 
low price, and was raised by a poor man upon the 
highway. He was of medium size, compact form, ad- 
mirable touch, and of a yellowish red color. He was 
so easily fattened that he soon became useless as a bull. 
This bull was bred to the cows owned by the Collings, 
and later an infusion of the Galloway blood was intro- 
duced into their herd. This progeny was inter-bred 
until 1810, when they had succeeded in forming a very 
fine breed of cattle. Messrs. Bates, Booth and other 
breeders of England have done a great deal to improve 
this fashionable breed of cattle, and in 1850 Mr. Bates 
sold the Dutchess family, part of which were calves, 
for an average price of $581, and in 1853 Lord Ducies' 
herd averaged $760 for sixty-two head. Since, indi- 
viduals of superior excellence have been sold at fabu- 
lous prices. As now bred, the improved Short-horn is 



282 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

less in height, broader, more compact and heavier than 
of former days. In color they vary from snow white 
to cherry red, though the red and white, or roans, pre- 
dominate. They are easily kept, fatten readily at 
any age, and obtain as great a weight at any age as 
any other breed. They are heavier milkers than other 
beef breeds, and very valuable to cross into the native 
cattle. The public sales of Short-horns that occur 
nowadays bring forcibly to one's mind the fact that the 
day of fancy-priced Short-horns is at end. It was only 
a few years ago when, at the New York Mills sale, one 
cow realized $40,000. Another of the same herd was 
taken to England for Lord Bective at about $30,000. 
This was in 1873, but $20,000 and $35,000 respectively 
were paid for two heifers at Windermere eight years 
ago. At the Dunmore sale, in 1875, $22,500 was paid 
for a bull, and the same year in Toronto a Duchess 
heifer, less than six months old, brought $18,000. In 
1876 a pair of Duchesses realized $21,000 and $23,000 
respectively. In 1879, at Dunmore, two Duchesses were 
bought at about $15,000 apiece by Sir Henry Allsop, 
and their progeny came into the ring in good form at 
one of the recent sales, but failed to realize any of the 
above named fancy prices. 

The prices of finely-bred Short-horns, however, are 
very far from what they used to be, but this does not 
prove any real practical decadence in the Short-horn 
beeeding interests. Short-horns are as good as they 
ever were, and the fact that the Duchesses no longer 
bring such fabulous prices only indicates that the ex- 
cellence of the race has become more generally dis- 
tributed, and that as a whole, Short-horns are now of 
more real practical value than they were in the olden 
times, and the prices that they command at public and 
even private sales now-days, put them within the reach 
of all enterprising farmers, Short-horns must have 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 285 

an abundance of feed and good pasturage to do well, 
and for this reason are best adapted to rich, level, or 
gently undulating lands. On hilly, broken, or poor 
lands that produce short grass or scant crops, some of 
the smaller, more hardy, active breeds of cattle will 
give better results. 

THE HEREFORDS. 

The Hereford cattle are also an English breed, and 
in their characteristics resemble the Short-horns very 
much. They are uniform in color, being a light red, 
with white or mottled face, breast, belly and feet. 
Their horns are longer than any other improved breed 
of cattle except the Devons; hair soft, silky and curly, 
showing them to be a breed of great vitality. They 
are fully as compact and heavy as the Short-horns, 
and less in height. They are noted for being quick 
maturers and great rustlers, and have become quite 
fashionable of late years in America, for improving 
our native cattle; and as a beef breed have now be- 
come close competitors of the Short-horns. 

ABERDEEN POLLED ANGUS. 

This is another breed of cattle that has become 
very fashionable of late years, and has been heavily 
introduced into America. They are of Scotch descent; 
have no horns; very compactly made; about the size 
of the Herefords, and covered with a heavy coat of 
curly, black hair. As quick maturers and rustlers, 
they have no superiors, and should prove very valu- 
able on the plains, as well as with the general farmer, 
as a beef producing breed, but as milkers, no special 
claim can be made for them. 

THE GALLOWAYS. 

Are of the same origin as the Angus, and resemble 
them very much, except that they are some rougher 
in form, more slow to mature, and have a more curly 
coat of hair, Hon. Wm. M'Combie, of Tillyfour, 



286 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

Scotland, was the chief founder of the Black Polled 
cattle. His name is not less inseparably linked with 
the fame of the polled cattle of Scotland than is that 
of the Collings with Short-horns, or of Tompkins with 
the white faces of Herefordshire. 

The Red Polled cattle are also of foreign descent 
and resemble the Angus and Galloways very much 
except in color. They are said to be good handlers, 
quick maturers, and medium milkers. They are of 
good height and smooth, but not as compact as the 
Angus, and are covered with a smooth, red coat of 
hair. Any of these polled breeds are said to be very 
hardy, and can endure a great amount of cold and ex- 
posure, and thrive upon a more scanty fare than the 
Short-horns or the Herefords. 

HOLSTEIN HOLLAND, OR FRIESIAN CATTLE. 

These cattle were originated in Germany, and are 
one of the oldest improved breeds known, but have 
not been introduced into America very much until of 
late years. They are now becoming very fashionable, 
and are considered the leading dairy cattle for milk, but- 
ter, and cheese. In color, they are black and white spot- 
ted, or black with a white belt around them. They are 
not as compact and smooth as the Short-horn, Here- 
ford, or Angus cattle, nor as well adapted for beef, 
although they are as large; but far superior to them 
for dairy purposes, and thus prove valuable as an 
American breed, and especially in the dairy districts. 

The Devons are an old English breed, and are well 
adapted to a rough, rugged country. They are a dark 
red, smooth, compactly made, active breed of cattle, 
hardy and quick to mature, good milkers, and the 
steers make the best of oxen. They are smaller than 
any of the above named breeds. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 289 

ALDERNEYS JERSEYS GURNSEYS. 

These cattle were originated on the British Chan- 
nel Islands of the same names. While they vary 
somewhat in color from a light fawn, or squirrel, to a 
pale red, and also in size, yet their characteristics are 
about the same, as they are emphatically butter breeds. 
They are more noted for the quality of their milk than 
for the quantity, it being very rich; and the butter for 
its rich, golden color, hardness of texture and nutty 
flavor. The laws under which they are bred in their 
native homes, allowing no other breed of cattle on 
these islands, are very strict, and well enforced in order 
to preserve the breeds in their pure state. 

The Jerseys have had quite a boom in America in 
the last few years, and many have been sold at large 
prices, their chief value being in the large amount of 
butter they are capable of producing. As a cow for 
the wealthy class in a city, or for those making butter 
for that class of people, they are valuable; but for the 
dairy, where milk is sold, or for the general farmer, 
who wishes to produce beef milk and butter, they are 
of but little use. 

The Ayrshire cattle originated in Scotland, and were 
bred exclusively for the dairy. They are a compact 
breed, in size and characteristics resembling the Devons, 
but are heavier milkers, and of a brown, or brown and 
white color. They, or the Guernseys, have more size, 
and are better adapted to the wants of the general 
farmer as a dairy cow than the Alderneys or Jerseys. 
But as a cross upon the native cow for the general 
farmer's use there is probably no breed equal to the 
Short-horns, although some of the other breeds are 
highly recommended, especially the Holsteins. 

noted cows. 

The famous Jersey cow "Mary Anne of St. Lam- 
bert's," was dropped March 26th, 1879. Mary Anne 



290 .THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

of St. Lambert produced 36 pounds 12^ ounces of mar- 
ketable butter in seven days in the fall of 1884. The 
test was made in accordance with the rigid rules laid 
down by the American Jersey Cattle Club, and there 
can be no doubt as to its thorough accuracy and reliabil- 
ity. In the seven days covered by the test, this cow 
gave 245 pounds of milk, an average of 35 pounds per 
day; 36 pounds being the largest and 32 J the smallest 
yield in any one day. 

The cow was fed by the manager at his discretion, 
and he informs us that at the beginning of the test 
she was eating thirty-five imperial quarts of feed per 
day, consisting of the following: Twenty quarts ground 
oats, ten quarts pea-meal, three quarts ground oil-cake, 
two quarts wheat bran, and that this was increased up 
to about fifty quarts per day, the composition of the 
above food being varied. She was also fed a small 
quantity of roots and cabbages, and a few apples, and 
kept in a small pasture in company with another cow. 

" Eurotus," a Jersey cow, was dropped in 1871. 
From the milk, given in one year from this cow, 778 
pounds of butter were made. 

The Holstein cow, " Mercedes," was dropped in 
1878, and died in 1884. This celebrated cow ranked 
among the heavy milkers of the breed she represented, 
and from the milk she gave in thirty days, 99 pounds 
and 6J ounces of butter were made, eclipsing all com- 
petitors in that length of time for the production of 
butter. The well known cow, " Aegis," with a milk 
record in one year of 16,824 pounds, stands fifth in 
the list of milk records, the heaviest being 26,061 
pounds and 11 ounces, as given by the Holstein cow j 
Clothelde. The next is 18,120 pounds, 18,005 pounds, 
and 17,746 pounds, respectively. The cows with these 
records are all of one family, except the cow Clothelde. 
It can be seen bv this that the Holsteins hold first 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 291 

honors now as a great milk and butter breed, and 
further, that great results can be produced by careful 
breeding, care and feeding. 

Unquestionably the Holsteins are a superior breed 
of cattle for dairy use, but whether they contain the 
combinations that should be combined in the general- 
purpose cow, or a cow suitable for all purposes, such 
as the farmer demands, has yet never been as fully 
established as it has been with the Short-horn cattle. 
In former years the Short-horn cattle were bred as much 
for milk as beef with a great many breeders; at least 
milk was one point that was always kept in view, and 
we have sufficient evidence in their history to show that, 
on an average, they were good milkers. Of late years 
they have been bred more for beef than milk, and on this 
account their good milking qualities have been some- 
what marred, but still they hold third honors as a milk 
and butter producing breed, and as for beef, milk and 
butter combined, they are first on the list, while the 
Holsteins are no doubt next. That the Holsteins are 
superior to the Jerseys as a dairy cattle is no longer in 
doubt or question, as all we have to judge by is the 
results obtained from the best specimens of each 
breed, and, as the former has gained the honor, that 
certainly settles the question ; and further, on an aver- 
age they are far superior to the Jerseys, for they give 
so much more milk in the same time, and produce as 
much butter as the milk of the Jerseys will, and have 
more and a better quality of skimmed milk left for 
other use, which is quite an advantage to the farmer 
or dairyman. From experience I am led to believe 
that it is a great mistake to suppose that the best and 
most profitable butter cow is the one that makes the 
most butter from the least milk, for the yield of butter 
being equal, the credit will be in favor of the cow that 
gives the larger flow of milk and the better quality of 



292 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

milk after the cream is removed. And this honor 
certainly belongs to the Holsteins, for their skimmed 
milk contains a large per cent, of casine and other 
solids, which makes it valuable for making cheese, 
feeding stock and other purposes. 

But with the all-purpose cow, like the all-purpose 
horse, it is impossible to unite all the good qualities 
into one animal, or an animal that would suit all per- 
sons and locations; and each breed in the future, as 
now, will, and should have its admirers, and its work to 
fulfill, while some are used to furnish the choice butter 
and milk for the more wealthy, who are able and will- 
ing to buy a choice article at a good price, others will 
be used to furnish the milk, cheese, and beef for the 
masses. 

NOTED STEERS. 

At the fat stock show in Chicago, Illinois, in 1884, 
the Aberdeen Angus steers, " Waterside Jock" and 
"Black Prince," showed the merits of this breed as 
beef cattle by winning some of the principal prizes. 
" Water Side Jock" was nine hundred and ninety-nine 
days old, weighing 1,815 pounds, and won the first prize 
as a two year old on the block. " Black Prince" was 
three years old, weighing 2,300 pounds, and won first 
prize in his class on foot. 

At the same time and place the cross-bred steer 
" Roan Boy," by a Hereford bull, and out of a Short- 
horn cow, won some of the principal prizes, including 
the silver pitcher given by the Breeders' Gazette for 
the best fat steer of any age or breed. 

Probably the largest steer ever known or exhibited 
in America, was on exhibition in 1885, by J. R. Mc- 
Gregory, of Ripley, Ohio. He was a fair mountain of 
flesh, and could be compared to no other animal, ex 
cept an elephant. He was dropped in Decatur County, 
Indiana, in 1879, being then six years old, and weigh- 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 295 

ing 4,250 pounds. The author had the pleasure of ex- 
amining this steer on the 22d of May, 1885, in Circle- 
ville, Ohio, where he was on exhibition. Mr. Mc- 
Gregory, at that time, was exhibiting him and a small 
Teeswater, or Currey cow, only 34 inches high, and 
weighing three hundred and fifty pounds, in the cities 
and towns of Ohio. The steer was a rich roan, and meas- 
ured six feet four inches in height, eleven feet and four 
inches around the girth, three feet and four inches be- 
tween the hip joints, and eighteen feet from tip to tip. 
He was consuming one bushel of corn, sixty pounds 
of hay and from eighteen to twenty gallons of water 
daily. He was said to be about three-fourths Short- 
horn, with a good sprinkling of the blood known as 
Seventeens, which he showed very much in the head 
and neck, also from the shoulder to flank. He was 
very fine in the brisket and rump, wide, straight back, 
well sprung ribs, and had clean, strong, good bony 
legs that would carry all the flesh that could be put 
on him. He was only in moderate flesh and was very 
active. The little Currey cow was giving some two gal- 
lons of milk a day, and was very much admired. She 
was a dark red, and compactly made, which is charac- 
teristic of the breed. 

As said before, this is supposed to be the heaviest 
steer on record, although there have been several heavy 
steers spoken of within the last twenty-five years 
weighing from 3,500 to 4,000 pounds, and all were 
composed of the Short-horn blood, and generally a 
good sprinkling of the Seventeens. 

HOW TO SELECT BREEDERS. 

In the selection of cattle as breeders, as much care 
and judgment must be used as in selecting breeders of 
any other stock. The characteristics desired should be 
strongly marked with the animals so they will trans- 
mit those characteristics, whether beef or milk, to their 



296 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

progeny. Unless for good reason, an animal of a 
certain color is wanted, I would say, as with the swine, 
do not be too particular about the color; better discard 
the color than any other good point. Any of our pure 
breeds are true enough to their color, but quality is the 
first and most essential point. Frequently at public 
sales of Short-horns, a first-class roan animal is offered, 
and the knowing ones will whisper around that it has 
a cross of the Seventeens in it. That was an importa- 
tion of Short-horn cattle made in 1817, and known 
under that name. They were not thought to be strictly 
pure blood, and frequently would sell at a low price as 
compared to a dark red one that may have been sold 
before it. But any farmer who wishes a good animal 
as a producer of stockers, had much better risk that 
one than a cherry red one, that may have a cross of 
Devon in it. One of the most essential points in any 
breeding animal is constitution. This, with cattle, is 
observed by a good coat of soft, silky hair, mellow 
hide, well sprung ribs, being good around the heart, 
with a strong, clean cut, neck and head, and a brilliant 
eye. Animals possessed of these qualifications, of 
either sex, and a clean, bony leg, are most always 
vigorous and good handlers. Other good points are a 
broad, straight back, prominent hind quarters, well let 
down to the hock on a straight leg, full, deep barrel of 
medium length, with a full brisket and medium shoul- 
der. The shoulder and the head with a bull should be 
more prominent than with a cow, and also the horns — 
if they have any, but either one should have a slim, 
bony tail. 

THE CONTOLLING INFLUENCE. 

The common accepted theory is, that the male 
parent has the greatest influence upon the offspring in 
outward form, etc., while the female exercises a con- 
trolling influence on the vital functions. This cannot 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 297 

always be relied upon in practice, but is a very safe 
rule to be governed by. Therefore, in the selection of 
breeders, it is best to keep in the mind's eye the char- 
acteristics desired in the progeny, and select accord- 
ingly. If beef is the desired quality, select those of a 
large, compact form, that show by good handling that 
they are capable of making a rapid growth and matur- 
ing quickly. If milk is the desired quality, select 
females that are prominent in the milk producing 
points, such as prominent udder and milk veins, heavy 
hind quarters, a full, deep barrel, wedged-shaped shoul- 
ders, slim neck and clean cut head. In selecting a 
bull he should be purely bred, of whatever breed de- 
sired, and strongly possess, as said before, the charac- 
teristics desired in the progen}^, and if his ancestors 
were possessed of the same characteristics, he is all 
the more valuable. Very often a good breeding old 
bull can be purchased for considerable less, than a 
young bull, and the risks to obtain the desired results 
are much less. These points serve to emphasize the 
truth that nothing is so trustworthy as assurance that a 
given animal will be valuable as a breeder as the fact 
it has produced good offspring in the past. In view of 
this, the high esteem in which young and untried 
animals are often held is only a theory and not well 
founded. And the claim that a great many breeders 
make, that to obtain heavy milking cows, the heifers 
from choice milch cows, regardless of their sire, should 
be saved, is an error. Breeders of long experience 
have proven that choice milch or butter cows are ob- 
tained by the use of bulls that had for their dams, 
noted cows, that contained the characteristics desired. 
These bulls bred to native cows, and the female pro- 
duce retained, as a rule, gave better satisfaction than 
those obtained by the former plan. But the best re- 
sults are always obtained by using both sire and dam 



298 THE AMEBIC AN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

which contain the characteristics sought, and the deeper 
those characteristics are interbred, that is, if their an- 
cestors have possessed the same characteristics, for 
two or more generations, the more likely will the 
progeny possess the desired merits. 

HANDLING STOCK. 

The term " handling stock" is a technical one, 
more particularly applied to cattle than other domestic 
animals, but a practical knowledge of it, even in sheep 
and swine, is considered important in this country, as 
well as in England, by all breeders, and is thus de- 
scribed: In order for visitors to judge better of the 
quality of the animals submitted to their inspection, I 
think it is important that they should know what 
handling is; and although it is difficult to define in 
words, I will make the attempt, at the same time sug- 
gesting to every one who has not a practical knowledge 
of it to get some person who has, to give him lessons 
direct from the animals he is inspecting. It is this: 
When the fingers are moderately pressed upon the 
fleshy parts of the animal, and the hair, hide, and es- 
pecially the flesh beneath have a fine, soft, elastic 
spring, it is called good handling: on the contrary, if 
they are coarse, thick, hard, and rigid to the feeling, 
with little or no spring under the pressure of the fin- 
gers, that is called bad handling. Of course there are 
many degrees in handling, from very bad to very 
good, as there are grades of animals. The better an 
animal handles, the quicker it feeds, that is, the 
sooner it will mature and become fully grown for the 
purpose of breeding or fat for the butcher, and a good 
handler will do this at a much less consumption of 
food than a bad one, therefore is much more valuable. 

BREEDING FROM SHOW HERDS DANGEROUS. 

Inexperienced breeders cannot be too often warned 
against purchasing breeding stock at public sales or 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 299 

elsewhere that have been fed and pampered for the 
show-yard. In the height of the Short-horn specula- 
tion it did not make much difference; then barren 
show cows were carried from place to place, and ap- 
peared first in one breeder's catalogue and then 
another's until they finally drifted out of the current 
and were stranded high and dry in the hands of 
some unsophisticated outsider, where they were never 
again heard from. Experienced people steer clear of 
these show-yard animals, or at least will not buy them 
without a distinct and specific warranty that they are 
breeders; and it will be well for all who buy at public 
sales, made up mainly of old show herds, to follow 
their example. If these cattle fail to breed, they are 
worth simply what they will bring for beef, and no 
more; and the purchaser should have a distinct under- 
standing to that effect before he makes a bid upon an 
animal old enough to breed, that does not show for 
itself. Breeders who offer stock that has been in the 
main bred and raised by themselves on their own 
farms are not much troubled with barrenness in their 
cows, and when such cases occur they are usually sent 
to the shambles at once; but show-yard animals, and 
those that have again and again been fitted up for the 
auction block, are so frequently made barren by the 
high feeding and forcing to which they have been 
subjected, as to put every experienced man on his 
guard when such animals are offered. 

THE SCIENCE OF IN-AND-IN BREEDING. 

Although in-and-in breeding is strongly condemned 
as ruinous to the vigor of stock, yet it is an admitted 
fact that animals produced in this way transmit 
their qualities more prominently than do those that 
are the result of careful selection from different strains. 
Inbreeding as practiced on some farms is not done 
under the guidance or direction of the farmer, or some 



300 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

experienced person, but in a careless and irregular 
manner. Inbreeding is a science, and demands the 
most careful judgment, as it permits of no middle 
ground whatever. Its tendency is either to improve 
or deteriorate the stock. Without inbreeding we would 
not be favored with many of our choicest and most 
popular breeds, as all of them have been established by 
a persistent inbreeding in order to fix the characteris- 
tics desired. Lord Western, in his effort to make a 
superior breed of hogs, resorted to but a single out- 
cross upon the Essex, which prompted him to use the 
Neapolitan as an admirable animal with which to blend 
the proper proportions of lean and fat, and even this 
out-cross may not be considered as such, the Neapoli- 
tan being really one of the original breeds upon which 
the experiments were begun. It was only by a judi- 
cious selection of the strongest and most vigorous of 
the herd that success was attained. Had the herd been 
left to breed in-and-in without a guide to assist in the 
selection of the best, the Essex hog would have passed 
out of existence long ago. Later on, however, even 
careful selection could not prevent the breed from 
gradually becoming enfeebled and weak, when the 
Berkshire, itself a closely inbred hog, was used to in- 
fuse new blood, and the process of inbreeding was again 
persisted in until at the present day we have a perfectly 
black hog without a white spot of any kind, which 
breeds true to color and stamps its features and merits 
on all its offspring. 

The Jersey cattle are closely inbred. But few pedi- 
grees can be traced that do not run into one or two pro- 
genitors of the whole, and our best butter strains 
have all descended from a single family. The rule 
of late years has been to select for breeding purposes 
only cows that have made records for butter production, 
they being closely inbred for that purpose. The sur- 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 301 

prise is that such animals maintain their constitu- 
tional vigor, but, happily for the breeders, the test of 
butter production is also the test of vigor, as the best 
cows are those that are vigorous and capable of digest- 
ing and assimilating sufficient material with which to 
accomplish the purposes desired; yet, with all the care 
that may be exercised in the matter of selection, the 
animals that prove superior are few as compared with 
the number that are not so fortunate. The results of 
inbreeding may be plainly noticed by even the most 
casual observer, in the delicate shape and structure of 
all Jersey cattle. 

Nor can the horses be said to be exempt. Breed- 
ing close into the Messenger blood, through Hamble- 
tonian, has certainly increased the speed of our trot- 
ters, and admitting that the instinct of trotting has 
been more firmly impressed, and yet there is a much 
larger proportion of failures compared with the suc- 
cess attained, i. e., there are more horses that cannot 
trot fast than there are that can. The form of the 
trotter, as well as that of the thoroughbred, shows 
plainly the work of inbreeding, for while the spirit 
and will force have been increased, it has required an 
occasional infusion of new blood (not, however, alto- 
gether foreign) to retain the stamina so essential to the 
roadster. 

One of the mistakes of inbreeding is the infusion 
of new blood through the male line. It should be 
through the female line only, as mistakes may be 
more easily corrected. The sire may improve or dam- 
age a whole herd or flock, while the dam is limited to 
the production of a single animal, and should she 
prove undesirable may be easily supplanted by a sub- 
stitute, which is not so easily done in the male line. 
The breeder, however, is the one who really prevents 
injury, for a knowledge of his work permits him to 



302 , THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

study the characteristics of each animal from its birth 
to maturity, which affords him ample opportunity to 
lay out his plans with a definite purpose in view. 
Thus, in the hands of a skilful person, in-and-in 
breeding is at times an advantage and a science, but if 
not done judiciously it is hurtful and baneful. When 
any new breed is first introduced, in order to obtain 
the results desired, inbreeding cannot be avoided, al- 
though the blood lines united should not be too close, 
as father to daughter, son to mother, or brothers to sis- 
ters. But if grandson and granddaughter or grand- 
dam, or grandsire and granddaughter are mated, and 
no cross closer than this is made, it will very likely be 
attended with good results in begetting the character- 
istics desired. This is very noticable with our trotting 
horses, of which we have ample evidence. Let anyone 
inquire what horses have been the most successful of 
late years as stallions in producing speed, and, with 
very few exceptions, he will find those that are the most 
successful have been closely inbred. The effects of in- 
and-in breeding have been much discussed, especially 
though the agricultural journals, and it is a subject 
upon which there is a great difference of opinion. But 
breeders of all kinds of live stock hold that it is the 
only true method by which any fixed type can be 
obtained. There seems to be no doubt of the truth 
of this, but in-and-in breeding is something that 
should receive careful attention by those not thor- 
oughly versed in the matter of selecting and crossing 
the blood lines that will produce good results. 

STOCK RAISING THE MOST PROFITABLE. 

There is no pursuit on the farm that affords greater 
pleasure or gives such sure profits as raising stock or 
operating a dairy. Not only is the produce of the 
farm more easily marketed when fed to the stock, but 
the fact of converting it into meat, milk or butter en- 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 303 

hances its value and increases the profits in proportion 
to the labor expended. There is another feature in 
stock raising, and one of the most important, which is 
that the farm becomes richer every year. Therefore, 
when computing the actual profits obtained, we should 
calculate and enter into the account the value of the 
improvement made upon the farm. 

The greater the number of animals that can be 
comfortably kept upon the farm the better. The more 
stock, the greater the fertility of the soil, and, hence, 
the larger the crops each succeeding year, which in 
turn permits of a still larger number of animals. And 
in raising stock the matter of improvement is a prime 
factor in the enterprise. Good feeding is important, 
but good feed gives the best results when good stock 
only receives it. The breed and the trough are twin 
essentials, and cannot be separated without loss. Fill 
the trough full, but let it be emptied by animals that 
are capable of converting the contents into the largest 
quantity of available product. There should be no 
waste of food nor loss of time. Use the most perfect 
animal to be found, if not too costly, for crossing on 
common stock, and thus grade up. Pure breeds, of 
course, are best, but if the foundation must be laid on 
common stock, make it a point to use only a purely 
bred sire. Aim to improve the stock, and the stock 
will improve the farm. The task is an easy one, but 
requires some little attention to succeed. 

For profitableness we look to the animals as a 
machine. We know that in almost every line of in- 
dustry machines are constantly being replaced by 
others that can turn out from the raw material a larger 
percentage of manufactured product. In just the same 
way, if it is desired to produce meat, the old native 
animal should be replaced by Short-horns, Herefords, 
or some of the other beef producing breeds, as their 



304 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

grades are greatly superior and more economical meat- 
making machines. If for the dairy, by the introduc- 
tion of the Holsteins, Gurnseys, Aysshires or Jerseys, 
good results will be obtained. It is foolisnness — it is 
financial stupidity — to keep and feed a scrawny, scrub 
steer or cow in these days of Short-horns, Herefords, 
Gurnseys, Jerseys, Ayrshires, etc. Good grades can be 
had anywhere, and at prices not above the reach of 
ordinary farmers. Farmers can at least secure a few 
good native cows, and from a good bull get good grade 
stock. 

The two rules given are not based on theory. But 
their soundness has been demonstrated in practice, 
but they are not so widely adopted as they should be. 
There is an astounding number of scrub animals in 
existence to-day, racing along the road in summer, 
and shivering under straw stacks in the winter, w T hich, 
the sooner they are abolished and replaced with good 
stock, the better it will for the owner. The author has 
often wondered how it is, that in this progressive age, 
when improved stock of all kinds is so plentiful, and 
can be had at prices within the reach of every farmer, 
or at least by a couple of neighbors combining and 
buying a purely-bred sire, that there are so few owned 
in some sections of the country. He is well acquainted 
in sections of the country that are well advanced other 
ways where there is not more than one purely-bred 
bull in a township, and not more than a half dozen 
purely-bred male hogs, and not even one good horse. 
Why is this? Every farmer certainly knows that any 
improved stock is far superior to our common natives, 
and knowing this, he certainly knows that it would not 
only be better for his purse, but the country at large 
to own them. By giving this often urged subject more 
careful thought, I am certain it will be adopted by 
many upon the first opportunity, and when a first-class 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. ' 305 

male animal is introduced into the country, that is 
suitable to their wants, they will at once patronize it. 

GROWING OR FEEDING CATTLE. 

The growing of cattle, like the growing of any 
other stock, to be profitable, should be well conducted 
from birth during all seasons of the year, and the one 
successful principal of stock feeding kept in view; that 
is, to feed liberally from birth until the animal is dis- 
posed of. The proverb "well summered is half win- 
tered," however true, is no more so than it is reversed 
— well wintered is half summered. Properly summed 
up, both propositions but amount to this: there is no 
time when the stock owner can permit his stock to de- 
teriorate the thrift without inviting loss, and quite 
often, disaster. The beginner who expects to find any 
time during the year when his vigilance as an over- 
seer, and liberality as a provider, can be relaxed with- 
out detriment to his stock, will have such delusion 
thumped out of him by the costly cudgel of experi- 
ence, if he fails to heed in time the warnings of those 
who have come up through tribulations they would 
have him avoid, that he will wish that he had looked 
more closely after them during both summer and 
winter. It is poor economy to allow animals to run 
down during the fall, expecting to winter them well 
or during the winter months, expecting that in the 
spring, when the grass comes, they will recover and 
grow the same as if they had not been stinted. 

Cattle may live and get through the winter on corn 
fodder and straw, but generally it will take much of 
the spring and summer to recover what is lost. In- 
stead of being ready for the market at two years, they 
must be kept longer, in order to make a slow growth. 

We cannot reasonably expect stock to thrive in the 
best manner without grain during the winter. The 
amount of coarse depends upon the quality of the 



306 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

other feed. The best guide is their condition. They 
must not, under any circumstances, be allowed to run 
down. It costs too much to regain what is lost. I 
am aware that the old custom was to keep cattle until 
they were three or four, and even five, years old. 
Hogs were not expected to have attained sufficient 
growth to fatten until they were from eighteen months 
to two years old. Of course improved stock has con- 
siderable to do with early maturity, but not all. Good 
stock, in order to grow, must be well fed. It is as 
easy a matter to stunt a full-blooded animal as a scrub, 
and good feed from the start will aid wonderfully in 
bringing out a scrub. 

Experience has taught us that, in order to receive 
the most profit, we must push stock right along. Give 
them a start to grow, and then keep it up by good 
feeding and good care. During the winter, as often as 
possible, give them a change, as they soon tire of one 
kind of food, and a change is beneficial. Generally 
corn is the main reliance, and as a whole it is one of 
the best, if not the best, stock food we have. Yet, 
with all this in its favor, a change to something else is 
beneficial. 

Good shelter will save feed, and if one must econo- 
mize in feeding, do it by providing warm shelter. Not 
only will stock be in a better condition, but less feed 
will be required to keep them growing. The principal 
secret in profitable stock raising and feeding is to keep 
the animals growing, and yet to do it with the least 
possible expense. 

Cleanliness should not be overlooked. To thrive 
well stock must have clean quarters, and when con- 
fined during the winter this requires work; but it will 
pay. See that they have plenty of litter, and that 
their quarters are kept as clean as possible. Where 
one has no barn room, very good shelter can be made 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 307 

by erecting rough sheds or wind breaks. Often this 
can be done with very little expense, and no difference 
how rough the structure is, so it breaks the wind off. 
The building of two high fences close together and 
filled with straw or prairie hay, rough sheds erected 
and covered with the same material, or a hedge fence 
banked up with the same, will answer much better 
than nothing at all. These structures should surround 
a high, dry piece of ground, and then the corn fodder 
fed on as small a scope of ground as possble, so as to 
form litter enough for dry bedding. Providing shelter 
for stock, simply as a question of economy in' the con- 
sumption of food, cannot be considered in any sense 
an undue pampering calculated to render animals less 
hardy, or to detract in the least from their constitu- 
tional vigor. On the contrary we believe that suitable 
shelter, to which stock can resort in case of storms, 
will tend to promote these qualities. An animal can 
perhaps endure the full force of a regular blizzard, but 
it is only at the expense of a certain amount of vital 
force, which must leave it in a worse condition than an 
animal which has not been called upon to endure this 
strain. There is much of the time when it makes but 
little difference whether the animal has shelter or not. 
In clear, cold, dry weather healthy live stock appear 
to be in a large degree insensible to ordinary extremes 
of temperature; but the snows, accompanied or fol- 
lowed by winds which sift it into the hair, where it 
slowly melts from the effect of animal heat, tell very 
severely upon the condition of the stock. We have 
often observed that the storms coming late in the sea- 
son or toward spring, when snows are damp and often 
mingled with rain, are more deleterious than those 
of midwinter. When the hair is dam or wet there 
is a constant evaporation of moisture which robs 
the animal of the natural heat and puts its powers of 



308 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

endurance to the severest test; and animals that have 
been subjected to all sorts of extremes and exposure 
during the whole winter, approach the close of the sea- 
son, the most critical period of all, with depleted 
strength and vigor, and in the worst possible condi- 
tion to withstand the severer trials which are then 
before them. As has been before suggested, it is not 
necessary that permanent or expensive structures be 
provided, but if nothing else can be afforded, poles 
and straw make a shelter very good while it lasts. 

When possible, all fodders should be fed in racks 
and thus avoid waste. Some use a long manger, others 
a rack of some style. The way to form a very good 
rack is to set four fence posts in a square twelve feet 
apart, board up all around three feet high, as for a 
fence, then place a center post and run boards diagonal 
from one corner to another each way, thus forming 
four three cornered racks, in which to put the feed. 
This can be made and set down, and then moved when 
desired. Again, cattle should be salted regularly twice 
a week, or rock salt placed in a trough where they can 
have free access to it, which is much better, as then 
they will only take a small amount at a time, and 
more frequently. 

WATER FOR STOCK DURING W T INTER. 

See also that the animals have a good supply of 
water, and not half ice. It is often the case that a 
large proportion of Western farmers make very poor 
provision, for supplying their stock with water during 
the winter. Springs that afford a supply of water that 
is moderately warm are scarce, and few of these that 
exist are utilized to the extent they should be. Gen- 
erally the water for the supply of farm stock is pro- 
cured from a well in or near the barn yard, and is 
raised by means of a hand pump. The water is often 
nearly at the point of freezing when it is drawn, and 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 309 

is ordinarily conveyed into a trough that is lined with 
ice, and the animals that drink the water suffer severely 
from cold. It is often the case that there is but one 
trough in the yard for the accommodation of a large 
number of horses, cattle and sheep of different ages, 
and this is generally surrounded by ice on which the 
animals are likely to slip and receive injuries. The 
younger or weaker animals suffer most because they 
are hooked or pushed by those that are older and 
stronger. During very severe weather many farmers 
allow stock to have access to water only once a day, 
and as a consequence they drink so much that they 
suffer from cold produced by taking so large an amount 
of water into the system at once 

If practicable, stock should be supplied during the 
winter with water furnished from a spring, as it is 
generally several degrees warmer than that drawn from 
a well. But where this cannot be obtained a well that 
will supply ample water for all the stock is next best, 
and by the use of one of the many improved methods 
now in use for drawing water, and suitable tanks for 
holding it, there is no need of any one's stock suffer- 
ing for this much needed want. The well should be 
covered at all times to prevent anything falling in it, 
as should be the trough into which the water is con- 
veyed in the winter to prevent the water from freezing. 
The practice of bringing water into barns and stables 
has given excellent satisfaction wherever it has been 
introduced. When it is not practicable to convey 
water into the building where stock is kept, a trough 
for holding it should be under sheds, and surrounded 
by stones or plank's that can be kept free from ice and 
snow. Young stock should be allowed an opportunity 
to drink while the animals that are liable to molest 
them are out of their way. In severely cold weather 
it is better to carry water in buckets to colts and calves 



310 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

than allow them to suffer the exposure necessary to 
obtain it in an open yard. Unless during storms of 
long continuance, animals should have an opportunity 
to obtain water at least twice a day. If their only food 
is dry hay, straw, corn fodder and corn, they require 
considerable water in order to digest their food properly. 

FEEDING CATTLE UPON GRASS. 

Of late years, the feeders of cattle have been ex- 
perimenting in feeding corn upon grass, and in all in- 
stances, where it has come under the author's observa- 
tion, the results have been satisfactory. Some have 
tried feeding old corn in the spring when turning their 
cattle upon grass, and continue it through the sum- 
mer, while others have delayed the feeding until later 
in the season, and then feed old corn, while others 
waited until fall, when the new crop of corn was fit 
to feed. In each instances good results have been ob- 
tained, but most always in favor of the latter plan, 
which no doubt, is the correct method of feeding cattle. 
For with them as with swine, there is no doubt but 
that there can be more pounds obtained in this way 
than any other, for the following reasons: First, the 
new corn is softer than the old and not as hard to 
masticate and digest; therefore more nutriment is ob- 
tained per bushel, as it is not as apt to be passed off 
undigested. Second, the grass at this season of the 
year is not so plentiful as in the forepart of the season, 
and unless some grain is substituted in its place, the 
stock is liable to shrink in flesh, thereby loosing part 
of what has been already gained through the summer. 

Another argument in favor of feeding corn upon 
grass is, that cattle being fed corn or other grain all 
winter, their stomachs have become contracted and in- 
capable of holding a sufficient quantity of grass to en- 
able the animal to make a rapid growth. This is very 
noticeable with some cattle that have been heavy 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 311 

grained all winter, that when turned upon grass, for a 
month or more they make no gain whatever, while 
cattle that were " roughed through," that is those that 
had received little or no grain when turned out upon 
grass would gain rapidly. This proves as said before, 
that concentrated food will contract the stomach, and 
it is not capable of holding the amount of grass 
needed to stimulate a rapid growth of the animal, and 
proves that grain should be continued to be fed to 
fattening cattle for a while at least, when they are 
turned out in the spring, until the grass becomes more 
hard and strengthening. This subject of feeding stock 
upon grass has never been given as much thought, nor 
the method as extensively adopted as it should be by 
the general stock growers and feeders, as most of them 
are contented to follow the old plan, of feeding grain 
until grass is ready to turn upon, and then turn the 
cattle out and let them go until the grass was all gone 
in the fall before commencing to feed grain again. In 
this age, when every means must be adopted in order 
to make the credit side of the ledger overbalance the 
debtor side, it would be well for all growers or feeders 
of cattle to give this subject some thought and a trial. 
Corn fed upon grass to stock when the weather is 
warm, will certainly produce better results than when 
fed during cold weather and probably in the mud and 
principally alone. If old corn is being fed, it no doubt 
pays well to soak it twelve or twenty-four hours before 
feeding, as by this means the grain becomes softened 
and swelled, and it is much better masticated and di- 
gested by any stock than if dry. Another advantage 
in feeding corn upon grass to cattle is, that the spring 
pigs can be allowed to follow them at a great advantage, 
as the droppings of grain fed cattle are suitable to the 
wants of young pigs or hogs to insure growth, and the 



312 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

food is all saved, while in the winter it is lost to a more 
or less extent. 

SELECTING 'FEEDERS AND THEIR CARE. 

One of the first and most important matters for 
the person who intends to fatten cattle to consider is ? 
in selecting the cattle, to select those that will best suit 
his wants. Of course anyone knows that those of 
good blood are the best and will give the most profita- 
ble returns. Therefore this should be the first consid- 
eration; second, that uniformity of size, form and 
color is another consideration, for as each individual 
animal may be of good quality and blood, yet if they 
are of all sizes, forms and colors, they will not com- 
mand the admiratio n nor as good a price in the 
market as a herd that is of uniform color, form and 
size. Color is of the least importance, but even this 
often makes quite a difference. The most prominent 
characteristics of cattle that take on flesh readily 
are, first, a short broad head with ample width be- 
tween the eyes, and a good mouth that can close upon 
a goodly quantity of grass or other food while eating. 
With stock as with man, time is money, and the ani- 
mal that can fill its stomach with food the quickest 
and lie down to rest and convert it into flesh is the 
most profitable to its owner. Second, the neck should 
be long and fine, and the brisket well let down be- 
tween the front legs which, should be well apart in 
order to give ample lung room. Cattle with long, slim 
faces, short necks and light briskets should be avoided, 
for they are generally of a nervous, roaming disposi- 
tion and slow feeders, making them unprofitable. 
Third, the barrel should be of good length and depth, 
and the ribs well sprung, which denotes good consti- 
tution and gives ample room to carry a large amount 
of food, which is an essential point. Fourth, the back 
should be broad, short and smooth, wide between the 



THE AMEKICAN CATTLE INDUSTKY. • 313 

hips, flanks full and well down, hide soft and plyable 
and covered with a good coat of silky hair. The legs 
should be short, straight and fine and the animal stand 
squarely upon them; add to such a fine tail and you 
have an animal that should be satisfactory to its 
owner. 

One important feature in selecting a herd of cattle 
to fatten is not to select them from a warmer country 
than you expect to feed them in, or those that have 
been kept in barns, if you expect to feed out doors, for 
the change would certainly be a detriment to them. 
After selecting a herd of cattle to suit your wants, the 
next thing to consider is how they have been fed and 
kept. That care and feed should not be better than 
you expect to give them if you wish them to be profit- 
able to you, but you should be able to improve upon 
that keeping in order to obtain the best results. In 
order to obtain these results, feed liberal, but no more 
than will be eaten up at each feed. Never keep a large 
amount of food before stock if you wish it to do well. 
They should only be fed what they will consume at 
each feed, and should receive this regular, as cattle are 
naturally animals of very regular habits, and know 
just when to expect their feed, and should not be dis- 
appointed, for they will be sure to be there to receive 
it each day or time, at the appointed time, without 
fail; and also the same way as to water or salt, both of 
which they should have an abundance, kept within 
their reach, so they can obtain it when wanted, for 
they understand regulating that want. 

Again, a change of pasture or feed lots, or the in- 
troduction of strange cattle into the herd should be 
avoided as much as possible, for such proceedings 
always disturb the cattle and causes them to do poorly 
for a few days. Remember that quiet and content- 
ment is essential to the thrift of all stock. 



314 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

THE BULL AND HIS CARE. 

In the selection of a bull, it should be borne in 
mind that he is one-half of the herd, and knowing this, 
it more forcibly reminds one of the fact that the selec- 
tion should be made with discretion and care, for only 
by using good judgment can an improvement of the 
herd be made. He should be purely bred of what ever 
breed one desires, and possess such characteristics as 
are desired in his offsprings. If beef is the object, or 
one of the main points desired, he should be of good 
size and compact form, i. e., square, blocky appear- 
ance, upon short legs, with a short, wide head, set upon 
a fine but masculine neck, of good carriage, which de- 
notes courage, one of the most essential points. The 
brisket should be hea.vy and well let down, as also 
should be the flanks and hind quarters; wide between 
the front legs, with well sprung ribs, which denotes good 
constitution; broad, straight back, wide between the 
hips, barrel of medium length and great wedth and 
depth, which shows he is capable of carrying a large 
amount of food, which will produce flesh. If milk or 
butter is the object most sought, the above points 
should be somewhat observed, but the animal selected 
should be from a family noted for their heavy produc- 
tion of milk or butter or both combined. This is just 
as important as it is to select a bull from a family of 
cattle that is noted for their great growth and quick 
development, for the begettal of cattle that possess 
those characteristics, or as it would be to select a 
standard bred trotting stallion, or a thoroughbred one, 
for the production of fast trotting or running colts. 
Like begets like, which is something in stock breeding 
that should never be lost sight of. 

When once the bull is procured he should be con- 
fined in a well-fenced grass lot, away from the cows or 
other stock, and when wanted for service, the cows 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 315 

should be turned into the lot to him, as they are more 
easily gotten in and out of the lot than he is gotten 
back into the lot; and if not allowed out at all, he is 
not liable to become breachy. Again, if he is allowed 
to run with the cows he is liable to become cross and 
troublesome to other stock, and will also exhaust him- 
self by unnecessary service. In this lot should be a 
stable for his use at all times of the year, and his feed 
should consist of a mixture of corn, oats, mill feed, 
cut feed, hay and corn fodder, in the winter, and in the 
summer, if not used too heavy, plenty of good grass, 
is sufficient, but where being used for a large number 
of cows he should have some grain; and some method 
to provide him with plenty of fresh water at all times, 
should also be arranged, and a piece of rock salt put 
where he can have access to it at all times. 

CARE OF COWS AND CALVES. 

Cows, to be profitable, should not be neglected, and 
allowed to become poor at any time of the year; for no 
neglected, delapidated, or run-down cow can ever be 
profitable to her owner. No matter what they are kept 
for, beef, butter, milk, or the raising of calves, the 
profits will depend upon their thrift, and when well 
fed and cared for, they pay cash down, and ask no 
trust. In the summer they should have an abundance 
of grass, and where their range is small, and the grass 
not sufficient to support them, fresh grass or provender 
of some kind should be mowed every day, and given 
them, or in absence of this, grain should be given 
them. In the winter, plenty of good food and shelter 
is necessary if any profits are to be derived from them, 
and the warmer and more comfortable they are kept, 
the less food they will require, and the better will be 
the profits obtained from them. 

The philosophy of keeping animals warm and quiet 
is simply this: Part of the food animals consume is 



316 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

used just to keep the machine running. It is only the 
surplus above this that can be used for the production 
of meat or milk. Now the percentage of food used in 
running the animal machine depends upon circum- 
stances. The animal that is just warm enough and 
quiet enough to be comfortable and healthy uses much 
less food in maintaining the animal body than one 
that is exercised violently and is kept cold. It takes 
food to maintain muscular activity, and food must also 
be used as fuel to keep the animal warm. The colder 
the room, the more the fire is needed. It is possible, 
for the warm, quiet animal to obtain a surplus for pro- 
duction from a ration that would just maintain the 
animal kept in the cold and in a less quiet condition. 
Does it pay to leave a window open in the room where 
we sit, and then burn twice as much coal as is neces- 
sary in order to keep warm ? Does it pay to burn an 
unnecessary amount of hay and grain in order to keep 
animals warm? 

It seems to me that it is much better to provide 
shelter for them, and save the feed. The man who 
does not study and seek to understand the require- 
ments of his farm stock and their care should never 
be a farmer. A farmer should have the well-being of 
his animals constantly in mind; and not only that, 
but their comfort ought to be of as much importance 
to him as his own. Not only ought this to be looked 
at from a dollars and cents' standpoint, but from a 
humane one also. A man who has not enough 
humanity to make his stock comfortale, without any 
other consideration, is not a typical farmer. 

Cows not well cared for cannot be expected to give 
much milk either for the dairy or their calves, or do 
well upon dropping their calves. A great many cows 
annually die thus, by neglect. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 317 

IMPROPER MILKING. 

Again, many farmers milk their cows too near the 
time of calving, and a great many good milkers are 
injured by this practice. The physical welfare of both 
cow and calf, together with the quantity and quality 
of the milk, are materially affected by thus overtaxing 
her, and she should be allowed to reach the time of 
calving in the best condition possible. A cow should 
go dry at least six weeks, in order to gain flesh and 
strength before calving, and when not on grass, should 
be fed with a good milk producing food, as mill feed, 
oats, clover hay, malt, and roots. Thus properly fed 
and cared for, the cow will be strong and able to 
nourish the calf and provide milk for it after birth. 
Cows that are heavy milkers should be looked after 
for some time after calving, and see if the calf takes 
all the milk; if not, she should be milked clean twice 
a day, until the calf is able to take all the milk, or it 
is taken from her. Some cows, when on good pasture, 
or well fed, require milking before calving, as well as 
afterwards, and should be closely looked after and 
cared for; for if neglected, they frequently are troubled 
with garget, or milk fever, which is very injurious to 
them, if not the cause of their death. The cows on 
the farm that are not pleasant and profitable to milk 
should be turned out with their calves, as soon as the 
calf is able to take all the milk and let run. This will 
pay better than to worry with such animals. When it 
is desired to make a cow own two calves and raise 
them, sprinkle the calves with salt. The cow will lick 
this off, and a repetition or two will often secure a 
permanent recognition of the calf. 

WHEN CALVES ARE REMOVED. 

When the cows are expected to be milked, the 
calves should be taken from them when three days old, 
or even younger, as at this age they are more easily 



318 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

taught to drink, and then the cows do not fret after 
them so much. They should be put in a grass lot, or 
warm stable, according to the season, away from the 
cows, and fed for a few days, new milk, or new and 
sweet skimmed milk mixed, until a week or two old, 
when skimmed milk will be sufficient. As they be- 
come older, mill feed and oil meal can be added to 
their feed with good results. One gallon of sweet 
skimmed, or even sour milk, made hot, and a quart 
of mill feed with a gill of oil-cake stirred into it, then 
cooled to blood heat, and given a calf, will produce 
about as good results as fresh milk. Feed can be pre- 
pared in this way for a number of calves and put in a 
trough, and it will not require a very great amount of 
teaching to have them drink in that way. As they 
become older, this feed can be increased, or else feed 
them some dry mill feed and oats, crushed corn, fod- 
der, pumpkins, etc., as the season may afford. When 
pasture is plentiful, and calves are fed in this way, it 
is more profitable to keep the calves than to sell them 
to the butchers. Many a farmer has found himself a 
hundred dollars richer, without missing the cost, by 
keeping calves instead of sending them away, and as 
a general thing, if properly conducted, it is more 
profitable to feed the milk to the calves or pigs than 
to make fifteen cent butter. In weaning the calves, 
when fed in this way, or when they have been running 
with the cows, they should be fed some other good 
feed in the place of milk, and kept growing right 
along, and not allowed to become poor and stunted; 
and as they increase in size and age, increase the 
strength and bulk of the feed, never forgetting that 
the road to success in stock raising is through early 
maturity. When calves are not intended for any other 
use than beef, they should be castrated at an early 
age — from one to four months. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 319 

THE FIRST YEAR OF A CALF. 

There is not a farmer in the country who raises his 
own calves but who knows that the future value of 
them depends upon the first year's growth as a calf. 
If the calf is half starved, stunted and ill-used, there 
is not one chance in ten that when it reaches the 
proper age it will make a good animal, either beef, bull, 
or milch cow. The calf must have the very best of 
food and enough of it if the object is to make the ma- 
tured animal a first-rate one, and indeed it is necessary 
too, that with yearlings and two-year olds, attention 
should be given in such manner as to insure the ani- 
mal plenty of food. 

A calf that is intended for a bull, in order to make 
a first-class animal, should run with the cow until he 
is five or six months old at least. If weaned earlier 
he should be fed on new milk just from the cow three 
times a day untill he is six months old, then twice a day 
for a month or so longer. When quite young, say a 
month old, if not on grass, give him a little fine early 
made hay to eat, and let him have some oatmeal, a 
little oil cake, vegetables, etc., increasing the rations 
gradually as he grows older. Weaning from milk 
should be gradual, and in pasture time, and in its 
place given some mill feed or ground oats or oil cake 
meal. Teach him to lead at as early an age as possi- 
ble, and ring his nose at eight months, and handle him 
from that time on daily. After he is weaned feed as 
you would other cattle, to keep them in the best condi- 
tion. Often a young bull treated in this way will 
show his superiority before maturity and sell for a 
better price. In leading him do not handle him too 
much by the ring. Put on a head halter, run the 
strap or rope through the ring, then the pull will come 
more direct upon the head than the nose, and still have 
perfect control of him. Use him kindly; any abuse 



320 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

in any way only irritates him, and makes him afraid 
and cross, while kindness insures success. After he 
has become older and more self-willed, use a bull staff, 
with which to handle him. When twelve or fourteen 
months old he can be allowed to serve a few cows, but 
he should not go to more than two a week, and should 
be well cared for as spoken of in the care of the bull. 

In growing heifer calves for the dairy, the import- 
ant thing to accomplish is to grow the frame and mus- 
cular system, without laying on much fat. It is a 
rangy, well developed animal, with a vigorous diges- 
tion, that is wanted in the milch cow. The profitable 
milch cow must be a large eater, and make the best 
use of her food, in order to produce a large yield of 
milk. In rearing the heifer for this purpose she 
should be so fed as to give her a full development of 
all the vital organs, and this will necessarily bring her 
digestive organs into special activity. 

Fat in the animal body seems only designated to 
serve as a cushion to the tendons and joints, to fill up 
and round out depressions, and lastly, as a reserve of 
fuel to keep up animal heat in case of necessity. It is 
not the seat of any sensation, has little or nothing to 
do with the vital processes, and generally is merely 
inert ballast in the body. The food given, then, should 
not be designed to lay on fat; food containing an ex- 
cessive amount of starch or oil should be avoided in 
feeding heifer calves designed for the dairy, but food 
rich in albuminoids and the mineral constituents of 
the body, is what should be sought. Therefore, if the 
heifer calves are taken from the cows at an early age 
and properly raised by hand, upon skimmed milk, 
etc., the results are as good as if allowed to run with 
the cows, and furthermore, they become accustomed to 
being handled, and are rather fond of the presence of 
the keeper, an important feature with a milch cow. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 321 

Kindness helps to create a quiet disposition, and this 
education must begin when the calf is young; any 
habits acquired when young are apt to cling to the 
cow when grown. 

HOW EARLY SHOULD HEIFERS HAVE CALVES. 

There is a great difference in the practice of farm- 
ers in respect to how early heifers should have calves. 
For beef purposes, three years old is probably soon 
enough; but for a milker, I would have the heifer 
come in at two and one-half years old, or sooner. She 
is then old enough to become a cow, and is much more 
easily taught to be milked than when older, and it is 
best, as a rule, not to allow her to go dry too long with 
her first calf, but should be milked up to within eight 
weeks of calving. A cow thus trained will give more 
milk and will be more likely to hold out longer in 
milk, if her after care is judicious and liberal, as it 
should be. Such treatment tends to form the habit of 
giving milk; as we know, habit is a sort of second 
nature, we should endeavor to teach only good ones. 
To couple the heifer with a bull one or two years older 
than she is, is preferable to a yearling, and better stock 
is likely to come from such. After the heifer has calved 
her feed should be regular and liberal. In absence of 
good grass or hay, we must make up for what is lack- 
ing in some concentrated food, such as oat meal, shorts, 
oil meal, or the like, but great care and judgment 
must be used not to over- feed or crowd, as the future 
cow may be ruined. Undue forcing shortens the use- 
ful life of a cow very rapidly. 

It is often the case when a heifer has her first calf 
that the farmer thinks she will not give more milk 
than will keep her calf in good condition, and lets 
them run together, to teach her the mysteries of being 
milked when she has her next calf. In this decision 
there are two mistakes that go far to spoil the cow for 



322 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

usefulness. Cows are largely creatures of habit, and 
with their first calf everything is new and strange to 
them, and they readily submit to being milked, and 
think it is all right; but suffer them to run with the 
calf the first season, and a vicious habit is established 
that they will hardly forget in a lifetime. If they 
ever submit to be milked quietly, it is evidently under 
protest. But there is a greater objection than this — 
the calf running with the cow draws the milk every 
hour or two, so that the milk vessels are not distended 
with milk, though the quantity secreted in a given 
time may be large. But this is the natural time to 
distend the milk ducts and expand the udder to a good 
capacity for holding milk. When, with her next calf, 
you require the milk to be retained twelve hours, the 
udder becomes hard and painful, and the milk leaks 
from the teats, or more likely nature accommodates 
the quantity of milk secreted to the capacity to retain 
it, and the cow becomes permanently a small milker, 
and very frequently learns the habit of holding up her 
milk. Much of the future character of a cow, there- 
fore, depends upon her treatment with her first calf. 
Everything that disturbs the quietness of a cow, im- 
pairs the milk, both in quantity and quality. To ob - 
tain the best results, therefore, there should be a regu- 
lar time and place of milking, and as far as possible 
the milking should be done by the same person. Any 
cow can be milked dry in a few weeks by irregular 
milking, at intervals of twenty-four hours, and some- 
times six. Separation from her usual company, a 
change to a new location, a strange milker, and, above 
all, a blustering manner and a scolding voice, are 
sources of irritation that, more or less, impair the 
milking qualities of a cow. No cow under the influ- 
ence of fear will give her full quantity of milk. 



THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 323 

UNRULY MILKERS. 

The habits that a great many cows form of holding 
up their milk, kicking or jumping, and running when 
being milked, are very annoying, and the " theories " 
of how to break them of these habits are " as plentiful 
as woodchucks in cherry time." 

My experience in handling from thirty to fifty cows 
daily, in the dairy, for several years, proved to me 
that the suggestions given in agricultural papers by 
different ones as to the means for subduing these cows 
were only " theories." To lay a wet cloth or sand bag 
across their loins, or buckle a strap around them in 
order to make them give down their milk, or putting 
a chain to their leg, or some patent contrivance to 
keep them from kicking, are all in the mind's eye, as 
far as a cure is concerned. By such treatment they 
may be subdued for a short time, but it is only a mat- 
ter of time until the old habit is renewed. My ex- 
perience with such cows is this: Unless very valuable 
as milkers, or for the blood that was in them for 
breeders, I would fatten and sell them to the butcher. 
When they are valuable as milkers, shut them up in 
close quarters where they will be compelled to stand. 
This takes less time than to run after them. The best 
place to put them is in the stable in a stall so they can 
be securely fastened with a stanchion, rope, or chain 
around the neck. Then if they kick or hold up their 
milk, change milkers. It is possible, very often, that 
a cow will object to one milker, but will immediately 
submit to another. Never abuse or speak harsh to 
them. Kindness will go a great way toward conquering 
them. When thus treated, and they will insist upon 
kicking, take a small rope, fasten one end in a snap; 
back of that eight inches, fasten a ring, by passing the 
rope through the ring and tying a knot in it; put the 
rope around the cow's right hind pastern, and fasten 



324 THE AMERICAN CATTLE INDUSTRY. 

the snap in the ring. Now tie the rope in a ring that 
is fastened to the building or post back of her, pulling 
the foot back far enough just so the toe can rest on the 
ground. Thus fastened, she is compelled to stand 
quiet, and this will do more toward conquering her 
than abuse. When they will insist on holding up 
their milk, and cannot be subdued, I would keep them 
to raise calves, or fatten them. 

As a farmer said, "A cow is a curious animal. 
Like some other females, she has a nerve and a mind 
of her own, and when she gets nervous or makes up 
her mind, she will have her own way all the time and 
every time. In her tricks of kicking or holding up 
her milk, for instance; a cow can never be beat out of 
it, if she has once learned it. And just look at her 
quietly and sidewise while you are vainly trying to get 
a drop of milk out of her udderful, and notice her 
very peculiar expression. She is looking at you out of 
the side of her eye, as much as to say, ' I guess you 
won't.' " 

Probably the best method known to make a cow 
give down her milk, is the Swiss method, a merry 
singing milk-maid, which attracts the cow's mind from 
her obstinance. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 



Dairying With Profit— The Best Dairy Cattle — How to Judge a 
Cow — Necessity of Stabling Cows — Less Ventilation and 
More Bedding — How to Feed and Milk— The Most Approved 
Methods of Making Butter- 




DAIEYING WITH PROFIT. 

,HE dairyman of course wants to make his profits 
as large as possible. This requires earnest effort 
and close attention to the details of the busi- 
ness. The making of good butter and cheese, and the 
selling of good milk, are the first requisites in this 
undertaking. There are many instances throughout 
the country of farmers making a grade of butter which 
sells at fifty cents a pound and upwards the year 
round, and in active demand even at that, while their 
neighbors, with equal advantages, make a grade of 
butter which is hard to dispose of at fifteen cents per 
pound. Here is where the dairy business is injured, 
to a great extent; by the manufacture of so much 
mean, trashy butter, it has opened up the way for 
bogus butter, and the fine brands of butterine and 
oleomargarine have seriously effected the market and 
demand for the better grades of butter. The manu- 
facturers of these articles use every means to make 
their wares pleasing to the eye and taste; thereby 
making them preferable to poor butter, and hard to 
detect from good. This is something that the general 
farmer should look after more closely and endeavor to 



326 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

overcome, as the use of bogus butter is not only a 
positive injury to the health of people, but a curse to 
the farmer in destroying the butter market. They say 
the way to destroy an evil, is to commence at the root 
of it, and the way to destroy the bogus butter market 
is to make a brand of pure butter that will be prefer- 
able, and then it can be ruled out of the market, as 
the law now is, that bogus butter has to be sold for 
bogus butter, and not palmed off on the public as pure 
butter. The law being in favor of the farmer or dairy- 
man, they ought to be able to control this article of 
food against bogus butter manufacturers. Of course 
they can make it cheaper than pure butter can be 
made, for a great deal of cheap stuff is said to enter 
into the products of its manufacture, such as the lard 
from choleried hogs, suet from all kinds of beef, etc. 
This may not be the case in all instances, but is said 
to be in many 

Another thing that must be looked into in making 
the dairy profitable, is to get a herd of cows suited to 
what is wanted of them ; that is, a herd that will give 
a large quantity of milk, or a large yield of butter or 
cheese. The cow that is good for either one of these 
is scarcely ever as good for either of the others, unless 
it is for giving a large quantity of milk which will 
make a large yield of butter or cheese; and conse- 
quently it is important that if a large yield of milk is 
what is wanted, special butter cows are not kept, etc. 
The food supplied should be adapted to milk secretion 
and to the secretion of the butter oils. If these points 
are attended to carefully, it would be of some advant- 
age to the dairy interests. 

THE BEST DAIRY CATTLE. 

It would be very hard to say what breed of cattle 
is the most valuable for the farmer engaged in the 
dairy business. This would have to depend somewhat 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 327 

upon the situation, and the purpose for which they are 
used. The ideal general purpose cow, that is pictured 
out by some of the correspondents of several agricul- 
tural papers, will probably never be found; and cer- 
tainly not among any one breed of cattle; but the 
farmer's cow should be well-bred, of large size, a good 
breeder and feeder, and give a generous quantity of 
rich milk. 




THE HOLSTEIN. 

The Holstein breed of cattle, now so popular as 
dairy cattle, are, as said before, of Dutch or Holland 
origin, and are one of the oldest established breeds 
known, though their introduction into this country 
has been somewhat recent. They have, as is claimed, 
four merits: first, as great milk producers; second, 
good for butter; third, as good cheese-makers; and 
last, for beef. While not as great in general for butter 
alone as the Jerseys, yet their general excellence in 
this respect places them in the front as a general pur- 
pose breed without any rival, except perhaps, the 
Short-horns. 

In yield of milk or butter they seem to be confess- 
edly at the head. One cow is quoted with a record of 
112 pounds of milk in one day; another with 26,061 
pounds and 11 ounces in one year; and another with 
18,004 pounds, which are said to be the three greatest 
yields on record; and the Holstein cow Mercedes, is 
credited with the largest yield of butter in thirty 
days, making ninety-nine pounds, six and one-half 



328 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

ounces in that time. While we may not judge any 
breed of cattle by the merits of a few specimens, yet 
the Holsteins are undoubtedly great milkers and but- 
ter yielders. 

The Ayrshire cow, owing to her docility, being 
very easily managed, is valuable; for dairy purposes, 
for milk and cheese, she is equal to any other cow of 
her size, but not as valuable for butter as the Jersey, 
and is inferior to the larger breeds for feeding purposes. 

The Jerseys and Guernseys, and especially the 
former, for quality of butter, have no superiors. They 
stand upon the same platform as the Thoroughbred 
horse. They are each bred for one special purpose: 
the Thoroughbred horse to run, and the Jersey cow for 




THE JERSEY. 

butter. No improvement can be made with either 
one, for their purpose, by the infusion of other blood. 
But as said before, in keeping cows for the "dairy, to 
give milk or make butter, keep only the kind that will 
give the greatest quantity of your specialty — butter 
cows, if it is butter; and if it is milk, then keep cows 
of one of the milk breeds, of which the Holstein or 
Short-horn cow has no superior. But no matter what 
breed you have, something further is necessary in order 
to reach the best success. A good cow can generally be 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 329 

produced by good feed and care; a $5,000 Jersey cow 
will do poorly for butter on the care and feed that 
many farmers give their animals. 

HOW TO JUDGE A COW. 

In selecting cows, by close observation very often 
their character can be told by their countenance, and 
their quality by their appearance. 

"Man is not the only animal which shows his char- 
acter by his countenance. Nearly all kinds of live 
stock, and especially cattle and horses, have something 
significant in their facial expressions. Gentleness and 
docility on the one hand, and wildness and ferocity on 
the other, crop out almost unerringly in the cast of 
the eye, or the pose of the head. An expert horseman 
can nearly always interpret the disposition of a horse 
from a square look into his eyes. Experienced dairy- 
men also discriminate largely in the choice of milking 
stock by their knowledge of live stock physiognomy. 
The same thing is carried into the fat stock markets. 
Butchers will nearly always scrutinize the countenance 
of a bullock before purchasing, and we have often seen 
them turn away from a handsome beef because it had 
a ' wicked eye/ which unerringly presaged trouble in 
getting it from the yards, through the streets and to 
the shambles. Stock drivers will, when wanted to 
take charge of an animal, ask to see it, and after a 
momentary front view will consent or refuse with a 
promptness which shows confidence in their ability 
to judge in this way. A bullock will sometimes be 
avoided by several drivers in turn, and without con- 
nivance, too, because he has a villainous ' phiz.' One 
who accustoms himself to reading the faces of cattle 
can soon become so expert that he can with difficulty 
be entrapped into an error of judgment." 

Having had considerable experience in handling 
stock, I have found the following description, as given 



330 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

by Mr. C. Bordwell, of how to judge a good cow of 
value. As the character has a great deal to do with 
the cow, and we must judge that by her countenance, 
we will commence at the head and first notice the 
eyes. These should be large and of a bright color, 
showing a mild disposition. The muzzle should be 
rather large, but the head small and rather bony, with 
the face dished and wide between the eyes; horns 
rather small and amber color; ears small, thin and 
yellow; neck thin and long, with clean throat; neck 
will drop a little in front of shoulders, making what I 
call a ewe neck; shoulders sloping, not heavy but 
lean or bony; back level with good width of hips. The 
back-bone should be rough or loose-jointed. I con- 
sider this one of the best points. As you move your 
hand along the back the joints seem to be farther 
apart and open. Barrel broad and deep at the flank, 
with the back ribs wide apart. Rump long and rather 
wide; thighs long, thin, and wide apart, with legs 
short and bone fine; hoofs rather long but small; milk 
veins large, and where they enter the body you can 
stick your fingers in. Udder well forward and well up 
behind, with four good large teats set square and wide 
apart. Udder soft and pliable, and not fleshy, so that 
when the milk is drawn the udder is nearly gone. Tail 
long and slim, with a good switch. Skin should be 
soft and yellow, and covered with a good coat of soft, 
silky hair. The cow filling the above description, or 
nearly so, I have always found a good one. 

In buying a cow, find out for yourself if she is 
what you want. Don't take anybody's word for it. A 
mean cow is such an intolerable nuisance that many 
men, and sometimes other members of the family, are 
strongly tempted to strain a point in order to get rid 
of her. 



MODEKN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 331 

If possible, when < she is in milking condition, milk 
her yourself, or see her milked, and judge her by the 
milk. To find out whether any individual cow is a 
profitable member of the dairy herd or not, a separate 
account should be kept of her milk and butter. If 
no such pains are taken it is not easy to tell just what 
the worth of a doubtful milker is. The true policy is 
to throw out every one which does not yield a profit, 
and replace her with a better one. It costs just as 
much to feed a mean cow as a good one. " Better pay 
well for a good cow than accept a poor one for a gift," 
is a true saying with dairymen. A good cow is one 
that will make from ten to twelve pounds of butter a 
week for ten months in the year, or one that will give 
from 10,000 to 12,000 lbs. of milk in the same length 
of time. A poor cow, such as is kept by the average 
farmer in nameless sections of the country, to my 
knowledge, will make from two to four pounds of but- 
ter a week; average three eight months in the year, 
and probably give in that time four thousand pounds 
of milk. New milk weighs eight pounds and eight 
ounces per gallon. The poor cow will require the 
same amount of food if kept up, as the good one, and 
therefore must be kept at a loss. 

No man can afford to keep a poor cow for making 
butter or giving milk. The best thing that can be 
done where one is saddled with cows that make only 
four or five pounds of butter a week each, or give but 
twelve or fourteen gallons of milk each in that time, 
is to raise stock and feed for the shambles. 

MILCH COWS SHOULD BE STABLED. 

Mr. J. A. Smith, a Western dairyman, writing of 
the importance of feed and proper treatment of dairy 
cows, gives some excellent suggestions on this topic. 
He says that " dairymen are often surprised at the light 
weight of their milk the next morning after a cold 



332 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

rain-storm, through which their cows have suffered 
unstabled, which is only a natural result of such treat- 
ment. The cow does not eat so much, for one thing; 
and another is, that part of what she does eat goes to 
repair the waste of her system in withstanding the 
effects of the storm, and that keeps a per cent, out of 
the milk-pail, until she has recovered from the effects 
of such exposure. It is also true that a cow suffering 
from the want of proper feed or from painful exposure, 
not only loses in the quantity of her yield of milk, 
but in the amount of fatty matter it contains. In a 
word, nature has so organized the cow that she re- 
venges herself on her owner's pocket, for cruel neglect 
and short feed; and a farmer might just as well try to 
dodge taxes and death, as to escape the unwise treat- 
ment of a cow. In point of fact, when thus treated, 
she takes the cream first, and gives the owner what 
skim milk she cannot assimilate. The only way to 
get a profit out of her is to fill her so full that she 
runs over, and take the surplus for your gold mine." 

These suggestions show the necessity of stabling 
the cows, so they can be better fed, cared for, and 
milked. 

Milking in the barnyard is an old custom that 
should be abandoned. It is inconvenient and unclean. 
It should go with the wooden pail and hairy butter, 
and never again be brought to life; gone and forgotten. 

Why do farmers not awake up to this long 
neglected necessity, and at least make some effort to 
provide a cleanly and respectable place to put their 
cows while milking? And why is it that farmers' 
wives and daughters do not rebel against such unjust 
treatment? 

It is just as easy, and far more convenient to put 
the milk cows in the stable all times of the year, at 
milking time, as it is to leave them out in a lot; for in 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 333 

this way they are rid of the cold and mud, or heat and 
flies, and can remain quiet while being milked, instead 
of being chased around through the mud and snow. 
It is no wonder that farmers' daughters want to marry 
some city chap, who does not keep cows. And we are 
not at all surprised that they should marry from 
the city or so as to get off of the farm. If we were 
placed in the same situation as many of our daughters 
on the farm are, we surely would command and urge 
as a necessity, a change in this line; but just try to 
build a cow-stable, so that the cows can be put up at 
all times to be milked, or at least when it is necessary, 
during a wet or cold time, and then see if the girls, as 
well as the cows, will not be in a better humor. 

There is a prejudice among many farmers against 
keeping cows tied up in the barn the greater part of, 
even the wettest and coldest days. It is claimed that 
the animals will not be healthy unless they are allowed 
the freedom of the yard all day. I have seen herds 
of animals belonging to well-to-do farmers standing 
backed up to cold winter blasts, or vainly trying to ob- 
tain shelter from a storm. I have also seen cows, 
under the irritation of the cold, chasing and hooking 
one another around the yard during the greater part 
of the day, and cows giving milk, too. Now this is 
not a rare occurrence. There are a great many days 
in the winter when stock should not be out of doors 
longer than to give them an opportunity to drink. 
Milkmen know that the flow of milk rises and falls in 
quantity, as the temperature rises and falls during the 
winter season, unless the cows are so well sheltered 
and cared for that they do not feel the severity of the 
cold. The object in having a cow stable is not only to 
make it more convenient to milk, but to protect the 
cattle from cold and wet weather, as well as to aid the 
keeper to feed in the way that will be of the most 



334 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

benefit to the stock with the least expense of food. It 
is the care in feeding and keeping that gives the profit, 
and these points must all be kept in view when ar- 
ranging a stable. No one can build a permanent cow 
stable without expense, but such a building will soon 
pay for the cost it will incur. If built the merits will 
soon become evident. The owner will soon say that 
he cannot get along without it, and his only regret will 
be that it was not built sooner. In building stables 
for cows, as well as for horses, there are so many 
plans, that I will not attempt to give any; all that is 
required is to have them convenient dry and clean. 

There is possibly no more repulsive sight than a 
cow-stable in which dirty cattle are housed. It has 
been demonstrated that cows neglected in this respect 
to yield a perfect flow of milk, and that the milk is 
tainted by the odor of the stable; and it is reasonable 
to suppose that such is the case. The richest of food 
may be given to them, but if the condition of the 
stalls is neglected they will not thrive nor the milk be 
pure. The foul odor of a filthy stable must necessarily 
permeate not only the animal's hide, but it has been 
proven that the meat of stall-fed steers, fattened under 
these circumstances, is unwholesome; moreover, the 
milk, even during the period of milking, is liable to 
absorb the filthy emanations from such stables, and to 
become absolutely poisonous. It would seem, therefor, 
reasonable, that owners and dealers in cattle and milk 
should appreciate the importance of cleanliness and 
its relation to health, even as a source of profit. 

EXTRA VENTILATION RARELY NECESSARY. 

It is a rare thing to have a stable so tight that any 
extra ventilation is necessary in the winter. Where 
this is the case, ventilators should be so placed that 
there will be no cold drafts upon the animals. In 
order to insure this they should be placed as far away 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 335 

as possible from the stock. In no case should they be 
placed on the windward side of a stable, but should 
connect, if possible with another building to prevent 
draft, and one in which the air is somewhat tempered. 
The ingress and egress of air should be at opposite 
ends to insure circulation, and at the same time pre- 
vent a draft, which would be more likely when placed 
near each other. The ventilators should be few and 
small, and they should be latticed, overlapping each 
other, which would prevent strong currents. There is 
but little danger if stables are daily well cleaned out 
of the air ever becoming foul enough or close enough 
to injure stock. The necessity of ventilation is usually 
more of a whim than a necessity. When a stable is cold 
enough to freeze, ventilators are never required. To 
my mind, cattle sleeping on ice or frozen chunks of 
manure, is a barbarism that a humane or economical 
farmer would not tolerate. One would suppose that 
the dreams of the farmer, tucked up in a feather-bed, 
on a winter night, while his cattle were obliged to rest 
on an icy floor among frozen manure, could not be 
very pleasant. 

GOOD BEDDING NECESSARY. 

It is economy to give the horse, cow, and other 
stock housed through the winter, a good bed. It has 
much to do toward saving food and keeping stock in a 
thriving condition, to say nothing of the obligations 
man is under to provide well for the dumb animals for 
him given to have " dominion over." Better to give 
stock comfortable beds through the usual seasons of 
necessary shelter and stabling, as they can be provided 
with very little difficulty and expense. There is 
usually refuse fodder, straw, or other matter, which 
can be utilized and made into manure by this process. 
A large amount of the excrements, by this practice, 
which would otherwise be lost, can be saved. Fine 



336 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. ' 

sand makes a good bedding material and a good dress- 
ing for any heavy soil. Sawdust is another article 
which can be used advantageously for the same pur- 
pose, upon heavy clay soils. There is no farmer who 
cannot provide plenty of litter, of some kind for his 
stock, and this by all means he should do and will do, 
if he understands his business and consults his own 
interests. 

HOW TO FEED AND MILK THEM. 

Cows, in order to be profitable, must not only be 
generously and regularly fed, but their milking should 
be done at as regular hours as possible, winter and 
summer. The cows don't have watches, but they 
know when business hours come around, and are fret- 
ful if the business don't go on. Their feed will depend 
upon the time of year. During the best of the grass 
season, they may not need much if any feed, but if 
stabled at milking time, it is best to give them some 
dry mill feed, as it not only prevents them from scour- 
ing, but entices them into the stable. When the grass 
is scarce or begins to get hard, the mill feed can be in- 
creased in quantity and quality, or else some fresh 
grass cut and put in the stable for them. The main 
object in feeding summer or winter is to give a variety, 
at least enough of a change so that they will not get 
tired of any one kind. Corn is the great fat-producer 
and should be mixed with the winter feed, but if 
crushed or ground, and mixed with cut hay and 
steamed, or fed wet, it is better than if fed whole. A 
rich fodder, as clover hay, needs less meal, while a 
poorer one, like straw or corn fodder, needs more. 
Cattle that are being fattened should also receive more 
meal than the heavy milkers. The feeder himself 
must regulate the amount given. He should be able 
to feed each individual one of the herd the quantity 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 337 

and quality necessary, and so keep them thriving by 
giving enough, but not too much. 

To aid in mixing their feed, there should be a large 
trough close to the hay cutter. This trough should 
also have a sheet-iron bottom, and be fixed for heating 
or cooking, if wanted for that purpose It takes but 
little additional expense to have the apparatus fixed 
for cooking. When so arranged small potatoes, tur- 
nips, pumpkins, and mangolds can be used to the best 
advantage. They are far more easily digested when 
cooked and do cattle more good. These and mill feed, 
barley or malt, mixed with cut clover hay or sheaf 
oats, form the best of milk producing food, and it is 
considered an established fact that the quality of milk 
is controlled by the quality of the food. How import- 
ant it is then to give to the cows none but the best and 
purest food. With no other stock is this so essential, 
for the reason that it has been fully demonstrated by 
competent authority that the milk is a very prolific 
source of transmitting disease germs from impure 
food, and especially from impure water. Pure water — 
and no other kind should be tolerated under any cir- 
cumstances — should be supplied to the cows, all they 
will drink, three times a day. 

In feeding cows for milk it is a common practice 
to give each cow a pailful of water in which a liberal 
quantity of bran has been stirred. This produces a 
large flow of milk, especially if the water is warm, 
but it is a big chore to feed a large number of cattle 
in this way. The importance of water requires that 
it should be handy, and a good plan is to have a tub 
or trough so arranged at the well as to protect it from 
frost in the winter; this filled with fresh well water and 
a liberal amount of bran and a little salt stirred in it, 
will help to promote a great flow of milk. A rapid, 
expert milker, who is at the same time kind and con- 



338 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

siderate to the cow, can also do much to increase the 
yield of milk. Slow milking of cows never secures 
the full product. The cow becomes tired of relaxing 
the udder muscles, and after a time resumes the more 
natural position of contracting them. This makes 
much stripping necessary, and a slow milker will 
never have patience to strip a long time. Partial 
milking soon dries the cow, and greatly reduces her 
value. 

Always treat your cows kindly, have quiet attend- 
ants, feed well, milk quickly and cleanly. Discharge 
all help that are noisy, or that would strike or abuse 
the cow. 




In driving the cows, never hurry them; as when 
their udders are full of milk, or they are heavy with 
calf, it is very likely to do them permanent injury. 

Besides the suggestions already given I will say 
that the way to make money in dairying, is to keep 
the best cows, give them first-alass treatment, use the 
best methods of cheese or butter making, and keep 
your eye on the market. Don't keep a poor milker, 
and seldom sell your best cows. The best cow for the 
dairy is not necessarily a thoroughbred; it is the one 
that yields the most milk or butter. 

While I do not wish to lay a straw in the way of 
progress of fine dairy cow breeders, and while I admit 
the excellence of the Jersey, Ayrshire and Holstein, 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 339 

yet I do protest against the constant revilement of our 
native cows. No animal on the farm is treated worse. 
Struggling among ragweeds in almost grassless pas- 
tures, furnishing blood for flies in the blazing heat of 
mid-summer, the effect of wrath, hail, snow, sleet, rain 
and polar winds, she still survives, ever patient and re- 
turning good for evil. If our abused native cow was 
treated half so well as her foreign cousin, perhaps she 
would be as famous as they. 

MAKING BUTTER. 

In making butter remember that it is all important 
to suit the tastes of your cnstomers. Let your taste be 
subordinate to theirs. 

In packing butter for the various markets, or fur- 
nishing it direct to customers, it should be salted and 
put up in packages to meet with favor. One of the 
first essentials to a good package of butter is the use of 
a pure dairy salt, free from any injurious ingredients^ 
and one that will retain the flavor and good-keeping 
qualities of the butter. The use of poor salt, perhaps 
more than any other cause, has been the means of 
more loss to the dairymen of this country than can be 
readily estimated, especially when butter is held in 
storage for a higher market, the poorer grades of salt 
imparting a fishy or racid flavor, detracting in value 
from one to five cents per pound. 

In salting butter, one ounce to the pound is what 
is generally used. Butter should be exposed as little 
as possible to the air from the time it is churned until 
packed tightly in tubs, fit for market. Care should 
be taken never to overwork butter, as the grain and 
texture should be preserved. This point should never 
be lost sight of. 

Equally good results can be obtained by washing 
or working the milk from the butter, when skillfully 
done under favorable circumstances. In either case 



340 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

the only object is to free the butter from the milk, with 
as little injury to the flavor or grain of the butter as 
possible. In washing butter the danger is mostly in 
injuring the flavor by introducing foreign matter in 
the water, while in the other case, their is more danger 
in overworking, and so injuring the grain. In locali- 
ties where pure water cannot be obtained, washing 
should not be resorted to, for butter is always sure to 
take up the impurities contained, as it will taint of 
any decaying vegetable or animal matter that may be 
near. Many wells and springs which are thought to be 
pure and good have in them decaying substances which 
render them entirely unfit for any use, much less to 
wash butter with. Decaying organic matter so intro- 
duced into butter acts very much like yeast in dough ; 
at least, it starts a fermentation, so to speak, which 
soon destroys the butter. Allow no surface water to 
get into the spring or well, or any filth to remain in 
them, and if they are not highly charged with lime, 
mineral or salts of any kind, there is no better or 
easier method than to wash the milk out quickly and 
thoroughly before salting. 

It is very difficult, if not impossible, to make good 
butter without having a good milk room. All the 
other conditions may be good, but if the milk be set 
in a room where the temperature is not right, or the 
air bad, the result may be poor butter. This fact is too 
often over looked, but not as frequently as formerly. 
It is now very generally known that, to make good 
butter, milk must not be kept in the same room with 
boiled vegetables or other cooked food; or where there 
are vegetables as in a cellar. But it is not so gener- 
ally understood as it should be that the milk room 
should not be where there is any chance for disagree- 
able odors to come from adjoining rooms. Too many 
settle down in the idea that if they have a room ex- 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 341 

pressly for milk it is all that is required; but this is a 
mistake. The milk room should be so far away from 
the cook room that it should be impossible for the 
odors which arise while cooking to enter it, though the 
door is opened. 

If the farmer smokes tobacco he should be very 
careful never to smoke even in a room adjoining the 
milk room, or to go into the milk room after smoking, 
until the odor of the tobacco is out of his clothing, 
which, if he smokes very often, will not be until he 
gets a new suit. There are but few substances that 
absorb odors like milk or butter. 

All buckets or cans that receive the milk should 
be kept clean and sweet. The milking should be done 
quickly and the milk put away immediately in the 
milk room. As soon as the cream separates from the 
milk, which is in forty-eight hours or less, according 
to the temperature of the room, or appliances used, it 
should be churned, and not allowed to stand and be- 
come rancid. Keep a thermometer with which to test 
the cream, and churn it at a temperature of sixty-three 
degrees. Never try to secure the proper temperature 
by pouring water in the cream or testing it with the 
hand, but apply hot or cold water on the outside of 
the can, and get the temperature by the use of the 
thermometer. Wash the butter with pure cold water, 
add the proper amount of salt, one ounce to the 
pound, and coloring before commencing to work it. 
Avoid the use of the hand in working it. Use a ladle, 
or what is better, a lever. Don't spat it or draw the 
ladle over to smooth it, as that breaks the grain. As 
soon as the milk is all out it can be prepared for 
market by putting it in prints, or rolls, and wrapping 
each one separate in a clean muslin cloth, wet in 
strong brine. 



342 MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 

Use good ash tubs or scalded stone jars for pack- 
ing. Butter should be packed in solidly, so that 
when turned out it will not be loose and full of holes. 
Tubs should be soaked in good strong brine, or else 
thoroughly steamed, then weighed, and the tare 
marked plainly on each tub. Fill to water measure. 
Soak the cloths well in brine, and have them large 
enough to cover the entire top. It is now ready to 
go to market, or to be put in a cool place free from all 
animal or vegetable odors. 

PACKING BUTTER IN BRINE. 

This method of packing butter for its more perfect 
preservation, and one which is very effective, has long 
been in use in England. " It is to pack the butter in 
cylindrical bags of muslin, which are put in a mold 
for the purpose. These bags hold about two pounds, 
and when filled are tied tightly and packed away in 
brine in tubs, pails, or casks, and are headed up just 
as pickled pork is." The butter will absorb no more 
salt, is perfectly free from atmospheric exposure, is en- 
veloped in an antiseptic fluid, and is therefore entirely 
safe from change, excepting so far as this may occur 
internally from within by natural process called ripen- 
ing. But this change goes on so slowly that the butter 
merely acquires a high and agreeable flavor, and no 
strong scent or taste is developed which would ap- 
proach rancidity. 

This manner of packing butter has long been in 
use in some districts of England, and the supplies 
furnished to the large universities of Oxford and Cam- 
bridge, have been put up in a similar way for many 
years. The butter is made in long rolls about two 
inches in diameter, and these are wrapped in muslin 
and the edge secured by some stitches, the ends being 
tied. 



MODERN METHODS OF DAIRYING. 343 

Another method for packing butter, and one which 
is well adapted for the general farmer, is to work or 
wash the butter until it is free of milk, then pack well 
in a good sweet jar or ash vessel; cover the top over 
with a wet cloth; press down close all around, and 
cover with salt some two inches thick. When wanting 
to add more butter, remove the salt and cloth, pack as 
before, then replace the cloth and salt. Butter thus 
packed during the fall months will keep sweet and 
good until late in the springs, 




The American Horse. 



A MODERN, PRACTICAL, AND RELIABLE 



Treatise on the Horse, 



GIVING A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE DIFFERENT BREEDS AS TO THEIR 
ORIGIN AND CHARACTERISTICS, WITH VALUABLE INFORMATION 
ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS, AS TO BREEDING, REARING, SHOEING, 
AND THEIR EDUCATION, EITHER FOR THE FARM OR 
ROAD, FOLLOWED BY A PRACTICAL TREATMENT 
ON THE DISEASES OF HORSES, CAT- 
TLE AND SHEEP. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



THE DIFFERENT BREEDS OF HORSES AND 
THEIR CHARACTERISTICS. 



The Ancient Horse— Western Ponies— Canadian Kanuck— Thor- 
oughbred— American Trotting Horse— The Pacing Element — 
The Draft Families — The Cleveland Bay. 




THE ANCIENT HORSE. 

JIE horse is mentioned in Scripture at least fif- 
teen hundred years before the Christian era. 
To what country he was indigenous is left in 
doubt; but from the information given in the Scrip- 
ture, it is reasonable to presume that Africa was the 
home of that noble animal. 

Horses are not supposed to be indigenous to the 
Western continent; at least none of the first discover- 
ers have left on record any evidence of their existence. 
History shows that Columbus, in his second voyage to 
this country in 1493, brought over horses, the first, no 
doubt, that ever saw the Western hemisphere. Ac- 
cording to Herbert, in 1604, an enterprising French 
lawyer, M. S. Escorbot, brought horses and other do- 
mestic animals into Canada, from which descended 
the Canadian Kanuck, that for many years prevailed 
extensively in that country, and still exists, to some 
extent. In 1609, the English colonization ships, land- 
ing with immigrants at Jamestown, Virginia, brought 
over from England six mares and one horse, besides 
cattle, sheep, and swine. In 1625, horses were im- 
ported from Holland to New Jersey by the Dutch West 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 347 

India Company. In 1629, Francis Higginson, an 
English emigrant, brought over horses and mares to 
Massachusetts, from which descended the first stock 
of New England. From these beginnings and subse- 
quent importations, many millions of horses have 
spread over the United States. Some of the noblest 
steeds and greatest performers in the world are num- 
bered among our running and trotting celebrities, of 
which I will speak hereafter. The horses found in the 
wild state on the prairies of North America, are un- 
doubtedly descendents of the fine Spanish horses es- 
caped or let loose in the exploring expeditions of De 
Soto and other adventurers, especially from the horses 
that escaped in the Spanish wars with Mexico and 
Peru. 

The blood of the Barb and Turk, known as the 
Arabian horse, predominates in these ponies to a great 
extent, which, no doubt, accounts for their durability, 
for it is known that they are " tougher than a steak 
from a Texas thoroughbred steer. '' These ponies pre- 
dominate all over the West, and are known under 
different names, according to the locality, as the Mexi- 
can, Texas, or Indian Pony, California Mustang, and 
in the Territories as the Cayuse, or Spanish horse. 

THE CANADIAN KANUCK. 

This breed is supposed to be of Norman descent, 
and originated from the horses brought over from 
France by the first settlers of Canada. They possess 
the general characteristics of the Norman, without de- 
generation or any material change excepting that of 
size and color, which is attributed to the cold climate 
and scanty food on which they have been raised, and 
to a cross of the Norman and Arabian. They were 
the first draft horses bred on the western continent, 
and spread rapidly over the country, especially in the 
States east of the Mississippi. They are a valuable 



348 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

agricultural and general purpose horse, for a rough 
country, as they are active, easily kept, and grow fat 
at hard work. They stand from fourteen to fifteen and 
one-half hands high; possess an iron constitution, 
with strong muscled quarters; large bone in propor- 
tion to size; sound feet and legs, free from spavins, 
ringbones, or other hereditary defects. They perpetu- 
ate their strong points and leading characteristics to 
their issue, and when crossed with highbred trotters or 
thoroughbreds, increase the bone. Many of our now 
noted trotting horses possess the blood of the Kanuck, 
as obtained through Old Pilot, a noted pacer brought 
from Canada to New Orleans, by Mr. Chas. Barker, in 
1835, and from there taken to Louisville, Ky. He was 
a black horse, fourteen and one-half hands high, and 
could pace exceedingly fast. It is clained that he 
paced two miles in 4:27, but was such a lugger on the 
bit that he had to be worked with a peculiar rigging 
attached to the saddle, in order to hold and control 
him. This rigging consisted of a stout crupper ex- 
tending from the saddle to the tail. Attached to this 
was a regular harness breechen. Long, line-like reins 
extended from the bridle-bit back through the reins in 
the breechen, then back again through the rings in the 
bridle bit, and then up to the saddle. Thus rigged, 
the little " black ram," as he was called, could fairly 
fly, and from his loins, through his grand-daughters, 
have such trotters as Maud S., 2:08f, and Jay-Eye-See, 
2:10, been produced. As to the breeding of Old Pilot, 
other than he was a Kanuck, no account is given, but 
no doubt he possessed a goodly quantity of pacing 
blood, of which there is some strains in Canada. 

The breeds of horses which now prevail, and are so 
establishsd in the United States as to deserve particu- 
lar description, are the Thoroughbreds, American trot- 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 349 

ting horses, Normans, Clydesdales, English cart, Shire 
horses, and Cleveland Bays or coach horses. 

THE THOROUGHBRED HORSE. 

As ordinarily applied by breeders, the word " Thor- 
oughbred " simply means purely bred, or of unmixed 
lineage, and in this strict sense none of our domesti- 
cated animals can justly be called Thoroughbreds, ex- 
cept the English running horse, because they all have 
more or less composite ancestry. When, however, 
a' certain strain or race has been bred within 
itself, without an outcross to other or different strains, 
for many generations, until a marked and peculiar 
type is uniformly produced, that race, or strain, or 
breed is said to be thoroughbred, or purely bred. 

The term Thoroughbred was first applied only to 
horses in Great Britain, bred especially for racing pur- 
poses, and was adopted as the name of the breed, and 
is still used for that distinctive purpose. Conse- 
quently, when one speaks of a Thoroughbred horse, all 
intelligent horsemen understand that the race or run- 
ning horse is meant. No horses are recognized as 
Thoroughbreds in this country that do not show an 
unbroken line of ancestry, on both sides, to animals 
recorded in the English Stud-book. No intelligent 
horseman will speak of a thoroughbred Morgan, a 
thoroughbred trotter, or a thoroughbred draft horse, 
because, as before stated, the term, when applied to 
horses, belongs only to one particular breed, the run- 
ning horse, called Thoroughbreds. 

Mr. Youatt says: " There is much dispute as to the 
origin of the Thoroughbred horse. By some he is 
traced through both sire and dam to Arabian origin. 
Others believe him to be the native English horse im- 
proved and perfected by judicious crossing with the 
Arabian horse, the Turk, Barb or Bendoin, which, 
without doubt, is his true parentage." 



350 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES, 

England is entitled to the credit of originating and 
perfecting the Thoroughbred in its present form. The 
Darley Arabian, Godolphin Barb, Byrley, and Turk, 
were among the most distinguished progenitors and 
founders of the breed. The Stud-book, which is an 
authority acknowledged by every English breeder, 
traces all the old racers to some Eastern origin, or 
Arabian horse. If the pedigree of an English racer 
of the present day be required, it is traced back to a 
certain extent and ends with a well known racer, or in 
obscurity. For an American Thoroughbred, it traces 
to a well known racer or an imported Thoroughbred. 
It must, on the whole, be allowed that the present 
English Thoroughbred horse is of foreign extraction, 
improved and perfected by the influence of the cli- 
mate, and by diligent cultivation. The beautiful tales 
of Eastern countries of somewhat remoter days, may 
lead us to imagine that the Arabian horse possessed 
marvelous powers, but there can be no doubt that the 
English Thoroughbred horse is more beautiful, far 
swifter and stouter than the famed courser of the des- 
ert, and those bred in America have proven themselves 
equal to, or superior in speed, to those bred in England. 

Most all the noted stallions that have proven suc- 
cessful in the studs, were imported; among which were 
Bonny Scotland, Hurrah, and Kryle Daly, owned by 
Mr. John Reber, of Lancaster, Ohio, and all of which 
have become noted; especially Bonny Scotland, which 
was, beyond doubt, the greatest Thoroughbred that 
ever honored the American soil in the way of sireing 
speed. His get have won more races and purses than 
the get of any other Thoroughbred stallion by far, and 
sold for better prices. Bonny Scotland was not ap- 
preciated while owned by Mr. Reber, but when sold, 
and after passing through two or three parties hands, 
he was put at the head of the Bell Mead breeding farm 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 353 

at Nashville, Tennessee, where he soon became very 
popular and died the King of thoroughbred stallions. 
Hurrah and Kryle Daly, while owned by Mr. Reber, 
established their popularity, and in the winter of 1884 
Kryle Daly was sold for $8,500, and taken to Cali- 
fornia. Among other noted stallions, we find Lexing- 
ton, Big Tim, Longfellow, and Grinstead. Grinstead 
is owned in California and stands at $500; the highest 
price ever asked for the service of any Thoroughbred 
horse in America. 

In former days the race horse was not brought 
upon the course until matured, generally at five years 
old. The consequences were that they remained sound, 
competent to be trained and run well at an advanced 
age. Now the system is changed. The majority of 
breeders start their colts at two years old, so as to give 
them a reputation for early maturity, and they train 
off or break down at three or five years of age, and 
the majority go off crippled into the stud. 

Whether the introduction of two year olds upon 
the race course, that they may astonish the public by 
their fleetness, is best, is a question which more con- 
cerns the sporting man than the agriculturalist, and 
yet it concerns the agriculturalist to some extent; for 
racing is principally valuable as connected with breed- 
ing But the breeding of the Thoroughbred horse is a 
business that belongs to men of ample time and 
means; for it takes plenty of both to make it a suc- 
cess. That the breeding of Thoroughbred horses is 
legitimate, in which any farmer may honorably be en- 
gaged is too plain to admit of denial. It becomes sim- 
ply a question of how far this almost universal pas- 
sion may be carried. But whether it is wrong to run 
them at so early an age as two years, and cripple or 
ruin them for life, as is often the case, is a question 
that is easily answered in the affirmative, and is a prac- 



354 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

tice that should not be tolerated by the breeders. The 
horse as is susceptible of pleasure and pain as ourselves. 
He was committed to us for protection and for our use; 
he is a willing and devoted servant. Whence did we 
derive the right to abuse him? Self interest speaks 
the same language as reason in prompting us to take 
care of him. 

. THE AMERICAN TROTTER. 

This celebrated and valuable breed of horses is of 
American origin, and is thoroughly composite. It is 
made up of different elements of blood of the Thorough- 
bred horse crossed with the native American mares, 
and their produce so inbred, that now the trotting 
horse is a distinguished breed, and more valuable than 
any other known. The horses which were most noted 
as the founders of the breed, and which became famous, 
are, Juston Morgan, Rysdyk's, Hambletonian, Andrew 
Jackson, Mambrino Chief, Blue Bull, and Pilot Junior. 
Further on, I will speak of these horses and give their 
breeding as given in history with a few brief remarks 
on their value as sires, but cannot give the history of 
the families in full; to do so, would require a large vol- 
ume in itself. 

THE FOUNDER OF TROTTERS. 

The founder of the best trotting families was the 
imported horse Messenger, brought from England to 
Philadelphia, in 1778. The lineage of this noble sire 
traces back in the male line to the Darley Arabian, the 
sire of Flying Childers, but with the suspicion of an 
out-cross through the great grand sire Sampson. On 
the side of his dam the strain reaches Code, by Godol- 
phin Arabian. From all accounts, Messenger was a 
horse of superior, though not handsome form, and 
possessed extraordinary power and spirit. His color 
was grey, which became lighter with age; was fifteen 
hands, three inches high, with large bony head, and 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 355 

a rather short straight neck. His windpipe and nos- 
trils were nearly twice the usnal size, while his withers 
were low, and shoulders upright, but deep and strong. 
His loins were strong and the quarters very muscular, 
while his hocks and knees were very large, yet the 
cannon bones were flat and clean. He carried his legs 
under him, and was always ready for action. This 
description shows but little of the form of the Thorough, 
bred, yet is typical of the form of his trotting descend- 
ents. This form, as well as the extraordinary vitality 
and endurance peculiar to him, he impressed upon 
his progeny which being persistently driven and 
trained to trot, became more intensified and habitu- 
ated regarding gait, until we have as the result of this 
skill of man, and this strain of blood, the final devel- 
opment of the trotting horse of America, the pride of 
the turf and road. Messenger died on Long Island, in 
1808, at the age of twenty-eight, and stood for fifteen 
year in the vicinity of New York City. The roadsters 
and trotting horses throughout that section as well as 
many other parts of the country show that the im- 
press of his blood. 

PROMINENT SONS OF MESSENGER. 

The following were the prominet sons of Messenger, 
to whom we trace the many pedigrees of the fastest 
trotters: Mambrino, Bishop's Hambletonian, Ogden's, 
Messenger, Engineer, Commander, and Winthrop Mes- 
senger. Some of Messenger's daughters have contrib- 
uted to the different families qualities which have given 
them prominence. The grandam of young Bashaw, 
the source of the Bashaws and Clays, was a daughter 
of Messen: er. 

PI.OMIN :\T GRAND SONS OF MESSENGER. 

Among the grand sons of Messenger, Abdallah and 
Mambrino Paymaster stand pre-eminent- Of this 
king of stallions, Abdallah, "rough to look at," a son 



356 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

of Mambrino, and a grandson of Messenger, out of the 
mare Amazonia, too much cannot be said. In life he 
was not appreciated; in fact, was so neglected as to 
yield no profit in the stud, and was sold for $35 to a 
fisherman, who not being able to work him on account 
of his temper, allowed him to starve to death. His 
greatest laurels were reaped years after in the honors 
bestowed on his sons. During late years his blood 
has been highly prized in the pedigrees of trotting 
horses, either through male or female line. Mr. Wm. 
F. Porter, in speaking of him, says, "Abdallah was 
foaled on Long Island, and was a rich mahogany bay, 
and measured about fifteen hands three inches, under 
the standard. He had a star and very possibly one 
white foot. He was presumed to be Thoroughbred, 
but the pedigree of his dam was lost. 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian, a son of Abdallah, by 
Mambrino, by imported Messenger; first dam the 
Charles Kent mare, by imported Bellfounder; second 
dam One-Eye, by Bishop's Hambletonian; third dam 
Silvertail, by imported Messenger, was the greatest 
progenitor of trotters the world ever saw, and by right 
of acknowledged pre-eminence, claims our considera- 
tion as the first on the list of great stallions. He was 
foaled in 1849, and died in 1876. His dam being by 
imported Bellfounder, second dam by Bishop's Ham- 
bletonian, son of Messenger, and third dam by Mes- 
senger, shows that he was closely inbred. He is de- 
scribed by Mr. Holmes, who knew him well, as a strong, 
compactly made horse, close to sixteen hands high. 
His coat was ordinarily of the brightest bay, his legs 
black, the black extending above the knees and hocks, 
with white socks behind (in size precisely alike,) and 
a small white star in the center of his forehead. His 
pictures are all utterly inadequate to convey any cor- 
rect idea of the horse." 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 357 

After the get of Rysdyk's Hambletonian began to 
show promise as trotters, and especially after Shark, 
one of his sons, came out and trotted several wonder- 
ful races under saddle, from 1862 to 1866, making a 
mile in 2:28^, and two miles in 5:00^, and after Dex- 
ter, another son, came out a year later, and swept 
everything before him, and in 1867 made a record of 
one mile in 2:17^, which for so many years stood as 
the best performance on record, the " Old Horse/' as 
he has long been called, became very popular in the 
stud, and was extensively patronized. Another of his 
sons, George Wilkes, came out nearly at the same time 
as Dexter, winning many races, and in 1868 made a 
record of 2:22, which stood for many years as the best 
stallion record. Then Gold Smith Maid and St. 
Julian, granddaughter and grandson, appeared upon 
the turf and electrified the world with their wonderful 
speed for many years. And they kept coming thicker 
and faster — first, the sons, and then the daughters, 
then the granddaughters and grandsons, then the 
great-grandsons and daughters, until his descendents 
became the most noted family of trotting horses known, 
and the irresistible logic of trotting statistics to this 
day has clearly demonstrated the superiority of the 
Hambletonian blood over all others. 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian commenced service in the 
stud at two years of age, and continued successfully 
until two years before his death, when he proved no 
longer fertile. He served 1,833 mares, and got 1,325 
colts. During the first three years he stood at $25, to 
insure; the next nine years at $35; the next year at 
$75; the next at $100; the next at $300; and after 
that at $500. His earnings in the stud amounted to 
$185,125. 

Of his get forty have trotting records of 2:30 or 
better, or one 2:30 trotter out of every thirty-three 



358 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

colts. From this it can be seen that from the number 
of foals he produced, the per centage of 2 :30 trotters 
were small. Some of his sons and grandsons in this 
respect, and also in the production of horses of great 
speed have surpassed him. Among those that may be 
mentioned that stand pre-eminent as great sires are 
his sons George Wilkes, Volunteer Harold, Electioneer, 
Happy Medium, Dictator, and Strathmore, and his 
grandson Almont and Belmont. But it must be 
borne in mind that they have had the advantage of 
being coupled with better bred trotting mares, and the 
colts the advantage of the skill and knowledge of man 
in educating the trotter. It has been practically dem- 
onstrated that neither Bysdyk's Hambletonian, nor 
many of his sons, have produced sensational trotters 
when crossed on Thoroughbred mares, although three- 
fourths of all the sensational trotters belong to the 
Hambletonian family, but have been produced by the 
cross of Hambletonian sires with well-bred trotting or 
pacing mares, or mares of unknown bloods. It is not 
only true of the Hambletonian family, but with all 
other trotting families, that there are but few fast trot- 
ters that have been produced by breeding strictly 
Thoroughbred mares to trotting sires, or trotting mares 
to Thoroughbred sires. Less than twenty with records 
of 2:30 or better, would cover the entire list out of 
some 2,000 horses that have records of 2:30 or better. 

IMPORTED BELLFOUNDER. 

Bellfounder was imported from England, in 1822. 
He was a remarkably fast trotter for a Thoroughbred 
horse, and has contributed a most valuable strain of 
blood to the trotters of this country. At three years 
old he trotted two miles in six minutes, and at four 
years old made ten miles in thirty minutes. The Bell- 
founder cross is highly prized, and is found in the 
pedigrees of the Hambletonians, Clays, and other 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 359 

families. Rysdyk's Hambletonian's dam was by this 
great horse, and her speed, at four years old, was very 
great, seldom equalled, even in these fast times. She 
was a handsome dark bay mare, and queen of the 
road of New York City for many years. 

Mambrino Paymaster was another noted son of 
Mambrino and grandson of Messenger, and his dam 
was a large black mare, breeding unknown. Mam- 
brino Paymaster was the sire of Mambrino Chief, the 
founder of the family which bears his name. This 
strain of blood has become very fashionable and will 
be found in the pedigrees of some of the most noted 
sires or dams of sensational trotters. 

MAMBRINO CHIEF. 

" Mambrino Chief, br. h. 16 hands, by Mambrino 
Paymaster, by Mambrino, by imported Messenger, was 
a very fast trotter for his day, having trotted a mile in, 
2:36, in the year 1854. after having made a season in 
the stud. But besides being himself a fast trotter, he 
possessed the most remarkable power of transmitting 
the ability to reproduce trotters in his descendents. 
He was foaled in 1844, and spent the earlier part of 
his life in New York, where his opportunities in the 
stud were limited. He was afterward taken to Ken- 
tucky, and after making but seven seasons in the stud, 
died in 1862, at 18 years of age, and just at the begin- 
ning of the war, which hindered the development of 
his get for many years. In spite of this, and notwith- 
standing the fact that the development of the trotting 
horse was then but little understood, nine of his get 
trotted better than 2 :30. Among these was the great 
Lady Thorne, who beat all the great trotters of her 
day with the utmost ease, including the renowned 
Goldsmith Maid, whom she beat every time they met. 
Her best record was 2:18J, but those who knew her 
best say that this was no measure of her speed, she 



360 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

being able to trot much faster." She was credited 
with trotting a mile in 2:08 in a trial, driven by the 
veteran driver Dan Mace, and this long before forty 
pound sulkeys or shin boots, etc., were known. After 
the trial, Dan said to the parties that timed her, " We 
will never live to see that mile trotted again." 

The opportunities of Mambrino Chief as a sire, 
were vastly inferior to those of Hambletonian. His 
services in the stud were comparitively limited; he 
died before his fame was established, and his get had 
to contend with great disadvantages. But notwith- 
standing this he was to the West what Rysdyk's Ham- 
bletonian was to the East, the fountain head of a great 
trotting family. And history establishes the fact be- 
yond question that no other stallions ever lived, of 
which we have any record, who possessed the power, to 
a greater degree, of transmitting to their descendents, 
running through successive generations, the ability to 
reproduce trotters, capable of the very best perform- 
ances, with unerring certainty as the great stallions 
Mambrino Chief and Rysdyk's Hambletonian. 




This cut, as taken from life, represents the standard 
bred trotting stallion, Mambrino Hambletonian, and 
his general appearance shows the characteristics of 
the two families which he represents. He is a dark 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 361 

bay horse, 15| hands high, and weighs 1,125 pounds. 
Sire of Stranger, record 2:22^; two miles 4:59. Coal 
Dealer, trial, 2:24; Red Jacket, stallion, trial, 2:26. 
He was sired by Ashland, by Mambrino Chief; first 
dam Blinker mare, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian; second 
dam by Young Patriot, sire of Volunteer's dam; third 
dam the Charles Kent mare, the dam of Rysdyk's 
Hambletonian. Ashland's dam, Utilla, by imported 
Margrave; second dam, Too Soon, by Sir Leslie; third 
dam, Little Peggy, by Gallatin, he out of imported 
mare Mambrino, by Lord Governor's Mambrino, sire 
of imported Messenger. 

THE MORGAN FAMILY. 

To this celebrated family of trotting horses, too 
little attention has been paid of late years. They, in 
former days obtained much celebrity as a family of 
fast and fine road or track horses. But owing to but 
few of them being able to obtain records of 2:20, or 
better, and on account of their size, being rather 
small, they have lost considerable of the celebrity they 
once obtained. As a family of trotting horses with 
records of 2:30, or better, they no doubt are entitled to 
second place, the Hambletonian family holding first 
honor in this respect, as well as the honor of claiming 
all the kings and queens of the turf. But as a family 
of trotting horses for road use, they have no superior 
when properly bred. They are a smooth, hardy / com- 
pact made horse, of fine style, good action and dispo- 
sition, making them quite valuable for road use, as 
they possess all the characteristics desired for that pur- 
pose in most countries, and especially in cities, where 
the roads are not so heavy as to require horses of large 
size. As to the pedigree of the Morgan horse, there is 
some doubt, but the one as given by Mr. Justin Morgan 
is accepted as the one entitled to the*most credit. The 
horse, Justin Morgan, the founder of the Morgan 



362 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

family of horses, was foaled in Massachusetts, in 1793, 
and brought from Springfield, Mass., to Randolph, 
Vt., in 1795, where he was kept for many years, and 
became celebrated as a sire of fine horses. Justin 
Morgan, ch. h. 14 hands, was sired by True Britain, by 
Traveller. Dam by Diamond, by wildare, Thorough- 
bred. He was extensively patronized, and left a nu- 
merous and valuable progeny. There were but four of 
his sons left entire: Revenge, Sherman Morgan, Bull- 
rush and Woodbury, or Burbank. The last three be- 
came distinguished sires. But as to the breeding of 
their dams little or nothing is known. Sherman Mor- 
gan was probably the best son of Justin Morgan. He 
was the sire of Vermont Blackhawk, Sherman Black- 
hawk, and Vermont Hero, who perpetuated the blood 
of their sire through a long and illustrious line of 
trotters. Blackhawk was the sire of Ethan Allen, 
whose brilliant career on the turf gave him a record 
of one mile in 2:25, and with running mate of 2:15, 
but his fame in the stud far eclipsed his successful 
career of the turf. He was the sire of a great many 
fast trotters, and also the sire of Daniel Lambert, the 
sire of twenty-five 2:30 trotters, and the grand sire of 
H. B. Winship, with a record of 2:06, with running 
mate. Vermont Hero was the sire of Gen. Knox. 
Both their dams were of Hambletonian blood. Gen. 
Knox possessed more Messenger blood than Morgan, 
and his progeny show it by their records. Woodbury 
Morgan became famous as a sire of horses suited for 
martial display, on account of their beautiful form 
and graceful action. This is characteristic of the 
Morgan family and very noticeable with horses pos- 
sessing that blood. 

THE BASHAWS, CLAYS AND PATCHENS. 

The Bashaws descended from an imported Arabian 
stallion, Grand Bashaw, which was imported from 



BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OE HORSES. 363 

Tripoh in 1820, and sired Young Bashaw. Young 
Bashaw was the sire of Andrew Jackson, who was the 
most famous trotting stallion of his day, and as a 
weight puller was unsurpassed in speed. His dam 
was of unknown blood. She was taken to Phila- 
delphia in a drove of horses from the West. From the 
loins of this great horse — Andrew Jackson — have 
descended the Bashaws, Clays and Patchens. He was 
foaled in 1828, and died in 1846. He sired Long 
Island Blackhawk, who was the first horse to trot a 
mile in 2:40, to a two hundred and fifty pound wagon, 
and from whom descended Green's Bashaw, the Mo- 
hawks, and many other trotters of note. Henry Clay, 
the origin of the Clay and Patchen branch, or family, 
was a son of Andrew Jackson, and was foaled in 1837. 
The dam of Henry Clay was a trotting mare of un- 
known blood, but was both fast and game. Henry 
Clay was possessed of great speed and endurance. 
Cassius M. Clay, son of Henry Clay, and sire of 
George M. Patchen, has done the most to establish the 
Clays and Patchens. 

MESSENGER DUR0C. 

Duroc, son of the Thoroughbred Diomed, and the 
sire of Messenger Duroc, whose dam was a daughter 
of Messenger, is a noted strain of blood, and is found 
in the pedigrees of the American stars. Mares of this 
and the Clay and Pilot blood are very valuable to cross 
with Hambletonian sires to produce speed. 

THE PACING ELEMENT. 

An important addition to the trotting element to 
produce trotters of great speed, is the pacing elements, 
which have been brought out within a few years, the 
chief elements being the descendents of Young Colum- 
bus, the sire of Phil. Sheridan, and Old Pilot, the sire 
of Pilot Junior; also the Copper Bottoms, Red Bucks, 
Cadmuses, Hiatogas, Tuckahoes and Blue Bulls. All 



364 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

have representatives among the fast pacers, and some 
of the families have assumed the trotting gait with 
great readiness, particularly the Pilots and Blue Bulls. 
Their tendency to that gait is shown in the fast horses 
that trace back to them. The trotting gait with 
the greatest speed has been produced by the crossing 
of Pilot mares with Hambletonian stallions. Breed- 
ing of this kind produced Maud S. and Jay-Eye-See. 

DRAFT HORSES. 

American draft horses consist of a variety of breeds, 
such as the Norman, Clydesdale, English Cart and 
Shire, crossed with the native mares. The importation 
of these breeds from their native homes, of late years, 
has been very heavy, and purely bred ones of their 
kind or sex are now becoming very plentiful, and as 
they are being purely bred in this country, as well as 
in their native country, and on account of the tempt- 
ing prices offered for the best specimens of the respect- 
ive breeds, America, no doubt, has now as good draft 
horses as any other country. 

THE NORMAN. 

The Norman is a native of France, and a descend- 
ent of the war horse used in that country in the early 
days. The improved Norman horse, known as the 
Percheron Norman, as now bred, is from sixteen to 
sixteen and one-half hands high, and weighs from 1,600 
to 2,000 pounds. 

They are strongly built, with heavy shoulders and 
powerful hind quarters; big, sound, bony legs, and 
good feet They are claimed to be a cross of the old 
Norman and the Arabian, by the use of the Arabian 
stallion with the heavy Norman mares, which, judging 
from their appearance, is no doubt true. They are a 
very active and quick moving horse for their size; 
good disposition, and generally of gray color, but often 
brown or black, and occasionally bay. In regard to 






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BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES 367 

the origin of the old Norman war horse, nothing is 
known. They have existed in France for centuries, 
and have a fixed type that must have been bred in the 
family for generations, because it stamps its imprint 
so faithfully upon the offspring. The Normans have 
formed the basis of all the draft breeds that exist in 
Europe or America. 

That the Norman horse possesses the blood of the 
Arabian or Thoroughbred horse to a certain extent, is 
no doubt true, and especially the smaller family known 
as the French Coach Horse, which shows it very much 
in their general appearance, being a horse that weighs 
from 1,200 to 1,400 pounds; brown, bay, or black in 
color; smooth, compact form; clean bony legs and fine 
cut head, with the best of style and action for a horse 
of their make. These horses are used in France as 
road, carriage, or cavalry horses, and for that use, or 
on the farm, or for delivery wagons in the city, where 
the work is such as not to require the larger draft 
horse, they are very useful. But for American use 
they are not so valuable as the larger Norman horse 
that has been so extensively imported to this country 
to cross with our native mares, as that cross produces 
a heavier draft horse, that is more valuable and ser- 
viceable. 

The first French draft horse ever imported into 
Ohio, or west of that, was Old Louis Napolean, im- 
ported by Fullington and Martin, of Union County, 
Ohio, in 1851. He was afterwards taken to Illinois, 
where he died at the age of 23 years, the property of 
Dillon Bros. 

Dr. Marcus Brown, of Circleville, Ohio, was one of 
the first men to import the French horse into the West, 
having brought over the horse Normanda, about 1852, 
and Black Bob, Dictator, and Dilligence, in 1865. 
These soon established the character of the Norman 



368 BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 

horse in Ohio, and was the cause of many subsequent 
importations, which has established their character 
throughout the United States of America. The heavy 
importation of the French horse soon caused the im- 
portation of other draft breeds, and now many parts 
of America are blest with all the improved draft 
breeds, which are being in most sections, and should 
be in all, well received and patronized by the farmers. 

THE CLYDESDALE, THE ENGLISH CART AND SHIRE. 

The Clydesdale horse is a native of Scotland, and a 
very superior breed of horses for draft purposes. Their 
color is generally bay or brown, with frequently white 
marks upon the legs or face. They are larger than the 
Norman horse, and more rangy. Their legs are large 
and heavy-haired; bone very strong and free of flesh, 
well set on to a good foot. As a breed of draft horses, 
for vitality, power and endurance combined they are 
unsurpassed. 

The English cart horse is a native of England, and 
about the largest breed of draft horses known. In 
color and make-up they resemble the Clydesdale very 
much, but generally show the white marks about the 
face and legs more, are heavier, more cumbersome and 
slower, but are very valuable for heavy draft purposes 
about the cities. 

The Shire horse is also a native of England and re- 
sembles the English cart in color and form very much. 
Any of these named breeds of horses are valuable to 
cross onto our native mares to produce large and ser- 
viceable horses; and they cannot be too extensively 
used by our American farmers, as the demand for 
heavy draft horses is all the time becoming greater. 

The Cleveland Bay was formed by crossing the 
Thoroughbred stallion with Clydesdale or Shire mares. 
Then in-bred through themselves until a family was 
formed resembling each other in color and form. They 



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BREEDS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF HORSES. 371 

were about extinct at one time, but of late years they 
are being revived and brought to America. They are 
bay horses, full sixteen hands, very rangy and fine 
form in front, but often deficient in the hind quarters. 
Though an effort is now being made in the direction 
of their preservation and restoration as an acknowl- 
edged breed, the animals now being registed are 
selected rather for type than breeding. 

This breed of horses was bred and used by the 
English as a road or carriage horse, but not being as 
saleable as the heavy draft horse, and rather slow for 
road use, they were neglected until the breed became 
almost extinct. What few were left, or horses resem- 
bling the true breed, have been hunted up by horse 
importers and brought to America, and a hurrah made 
over them; but they are not taken to very kindly, as 
it is natural to presume that if they were too slow on 
the road for our English cousins, they are too slow 
for us. 

As said before, the French coach horse was formed 
by the crossing of Arabian or Thoroughbred stallions 
with the heavy French mares, and then inter-bred the 
same as the Cleveland bays; but they will not likely 
meet with any more favor than the former, for the same 
reasons. They lack size for draft and speed for road 
purposes. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE, 



The Art or Science of Breeding — Rules and Errors in Breed- 
ing—Breeding Trotting Horses— Speed the Main Point— A 
Standard Bred Trotter — Popular Sires of Trotters— Noted 
Brood Mares— The Great Brood Mare Families — Records of 
2:i4, or Less — Fast Records All Distances — Breeding Draft 
Horses— Pacers as Saddle Horses — The General Purpose 
Horse. 



THE ART OR SCIENCE OF BREEDING. 

jiROBABLY in the breeding of no other domestic 
animal is the art or science of breeding called 
to so severe a test as in the breeding of horses, 
and especially fast horses. In the breeding of all 
other domestic animals, the art of feeding can be 
called upon to a great extent to cover up the defective 
points, but this is of little avail in the art of breeding 
fast horses of any kind, Here the science of combin- 
ing the fast elements of blood, that have proven suc- 
cessful in producing the kind of horse wanted, has to 
be used with the best of judgment. The characteris- 
tics so derived in breeding running, trotting, pacing 
and saddle horses, more than in breeding any other 
animal, comes slow, and any mistake made, either by 
accident or otherwise, is hard to undo. Therefore, the 
inexperienced breeder, when contemplating starting in 
this business, should first give the subject careful 
study and be sure to start right, as any mistake at 
this juncture may cause him to abandon the business 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 373 

in disgust and financial loss. In the breeding of good 
horses of any kind, the desired qualities should be 
possessed, to some degree, by both stallion and mares, 
and the better the blood lines are, running back 
through several generations, the more valuable it will 
be, and the more it can be relied upon when called 
into action. I will herein give a list of rules for the 
breeding of horses, as gathered from practical breeders, 
which may prove of value to those contemplating em- 
barking or already engaged in this buisness. If they 
are committed to memory, borne in mind and adopted 
they will save some serious mistakes in this most valu- 
able business. 

RULES FOR BREEDING. 

First, determine exactly in your own mind the kind 
of horse you wish to produce, and never lose sight 
of it. 

Second, avail yourself of any opportunity that 
offers to produce the finest animals and blood that 
will suit your purpose. 

Third, avoid unhealthy or unsound animals, un- 
less the blemish is caused by an accident. Ill-tem- 
pered or vicious animals are also dangerous. Never 
forget that if the good qualities are transmitted the 
evil ones are sure to be. 

Fourth, horses that are greatly dissimilar in their 
build and shape should not be mated to breed. For 
example, big stallions and very small mares should 
not be mated, or a large, rough draft mare and a very 
small horse, as such crosses will no doubt prove a 
failure to a great extent. 

Fifth, avoid the use a coarse, loose-made stallion 
of any kind, or one that outlooks his size, or a half- 
breed one of any breed, if the use of a purely bred one 
can be obtained; and do not breed from mares and 
horses which, having been mated once, produce bad 



374 THE BREEDING OP HORSES A SCIENCE. 

colts. A brood mare that has produced a bad colt, 
if bred again, should be bred to a well-bred horse that 
is exceedingly good in the points that the colt was de- 
ficient in, and if that union proves successful she can- 
be bred back again with safety. If the mare is de- 
ficient in any way, select a sound, well-bred horse 
which is good in the points where she is deficient, 
whether it be in endurance, body, limb or temper. 

Sixth, to breed half-breed horses, select good native- 
bred mares. The better bred they are the more valu- 
able they will be. They should be young, sound, 
well-shaped, with good temper, and good action, or a 
tried mare that has been a successful breeder. 

These mares, coupled with a Thoroughbred stallion, 
which is of good size, compact, well-shaped, sound, 
healthy and vigorous, with good temper and action, or 
one that is the sire of good running horses, capable of 
carrying heavy weight, will produce a good class of 
horses for the saddle, road or light work. The same 
mares bred to a purely bred draft horse of any breed, 
will produce a good class of horses that are valuable 
for the farm, heavy truck, omnibus or delivery wagon, 
and always command good prices. Again, this same 
class of mares would be valuable to breed to a stan- 
dard bred trotting stallion, to produce a good horse for 
the farm or road. Mares of this kind coupled with a 
good trotting stallion, which is sound, and close to six- 
teen hands high, strong and compactly made, of good 
color, action and disposition, and is so bred that he is 
capable of transmitting his good qualities to his pro- 
geny, w T hen coupled with all classes of mares, would 
prove a valuable horse to use, as this breeding will 
most generally produce a large stylish' horse of good 
color, speed, action and disposition, that is eagerly 
sought after at a paying price. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 375 

ERRORS IN BREEDING. 

A great many valuable and well-bred mares are 
ruined every year by the thoughtlessness or careless- 
ness of their owners in breeding them the first time to 
a Jack or draft horse. Mares thus bred the first time 
invariably prove worthless from which to raise a fine 
bred trotting or running colt, for some years after- 
wards, as each colt for at least five years afterwards, 
will show more or less of the characteristics of the 
horse to which they were first bred. Knowing this 
to be the fact, it shows how important it is to breed all 
well-bred trotting or running mares, or mares that are 
expected to be used to raise trotting or running colts, 
to a well-bred trotting or running horse the first time, 
and continue to do so as long as they are expected to 
be used for raising that class of horses. Afterwards, 
if they are used to raise draft horses, they will prove 
more valuable for that purpose, as the colts will show 
the characteristics of the well-bred horse in color or 
action to a great extent. Large native-bred mares or 
draft mares that are suitable for raising draft horses 
can be bred if so desired, the first time to a draft 
horse, but should be a purely-bred horse of good color. 
When once mares of this kind have raised a draft colt, 
it is best to continue to raise that class of horses with 
them, for any attempt to raise a fine trotting or run- 
ning colt from such mares, can only result in disap- 
pointment. And the same may be said of that class 
of mares, even if they have never been bred, when an 
attempt is made to raise a fast running horse from 
them, by using a Thoroughbred sire. The only way 
to raise a fast running horse of endurance is to breed 
a Thoroughbred mare to a Thoroughbred horse. By 
breeding a good half thoroughbred mare to a Thor- 
oughbred horse very often a good quarter or half-mile 
horse is obtained, but never one of great endurance. 



376 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

The same may be said in breeding fast trotting horses. 
The only successful way is to breed well-bred trotting 
or pacing mares to standard bred trotting horses. 

By breeding course or draft mares to a well bred- 
horse, or well bred mares to a draft horse, nearly al- 
ways produces bad results when speed is wanted, and 
the same is true to a great extent, when a well bred 
trotting or pacing mare is bred to a Thoroughbred 
horse, or a Thoroughbred rnare to a trotting horse. 
Such breeding ends in disappointment, ninety-nine 
times out of one hundred, according to the statistics 
of the trotting horse. For, as said before, out of some 
2,000 horses that have records of 2:30, or better, not 
over twenty possess the Thoroughbred blood through 
sire or dam. And still, we often see peonle, who are 
of that turn of mind, as, 

"Convince a man against his will, 
And he will be of the same opinion still." 

Or the uninitiated, trying to breed fast trotting horses 
by crossing the Thoroughbred and trotting bloods, 
when twenty-five years of experience with many men 
of brains and money have proven it can not be done 
with any certainty. Frequently we hear persons 
speak of the horse Scotland, which was sired by Bonny 
Scotland, as proof that the crossing of the Thorough- 
bred blood, and trotting or pacing blood, will produce 
great speed. True Scotland possessed some speed, 
enough to obtain a record of 2:22 J, but he was rattle 
headed and could never be depended upon, for when 
the trotting gait would not win, he at once took to the 
running gait. And for evidence that he inherited his 
speed from his dam, Waterwitch, a pacing bred mare, 
we have this proof, that when she was bred to the trott- 
ing stallion Mambrino Pilot, she produced Mambrino 
Gift, a much faster horse, having a record of 2:20, and 
far more reliable. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 377 

BREEDING TROTTING HORSES. 

The scientific breeding of trotting horses is giving 
this country natural or " ready made " trotters, and 
the development of speed by man, is not the import- 
ant factor in producing fast horses that it was at one 
time. There are but few exceptions to the rule that 
great speed comes only from speed-producing blood. 
The more thorough the investigation in regard to this 
matter the more conclusive is the evidence. Also the 
more thorough the investigations as to what blood 
lines produce great trotting speed, the more conclusive 
is the evidence that it is the trotting or trotting and 
pacing bloods combined, and not the trotting and run- 
ning bloods as some would teach. 

Breeders of trotting horses, and especially those 
just commencing the business, would do well to study 
the breeding of those horses with fast records, to see 
how they are bred, and they will most likely be aston- 
ished to find that the majority of them are bred from a 
few families, and most all possess the trotting blood 
through their sires and many the pacing blood through 
their dams. That the pacing bred mares, or those at 
least that possess pacing blood, lead to quite an extent, 
as the dams of our fastest trotting horses, when taken 
in comparison with a like number of other mares is 
true; and as evidence that such is the case, I will here 
give as reference a list as compiled by Mr. D. H. 
Swiney, which I have given some study and find 
correct. 

Harry Wilkes, 2:13J, that is and has been a sensa- 
tional horse for years, had a pacing-bred dam. The 
Queen of the Turf, Maud S., 2:08 J, had a pacing-bred 
dam. Jay-Eye-See, 2:10, had a dam sired by the same 
horse that sired Maud S.'s dam. Smuggler, 2:15^, 
that was king of trotting stallions for so many years, 
was blessed by a pacing-bred dam. 



378 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Or, to make it more easily understood, take the 
great brood mares with two or more in the 2:30 class 
and study it. There are 129 credited with two or more 
in 2:30, with a total of 281 performes. Of these 129 
mares 17 are pacing-bred, with 37 performers, or a 
percentage of 13 1-6, both in number of mares and in 
produce. Of the other 112 mares there are 9 with 19 
performers, whose breeding has never been traced, 
leaving it about 14^ per cent, both mares and perform- 
ers of the pacers. Pilot Jr., leads with nine mares 
who have 20 performers in 2:30, as follows: Crop — 
Blanche Amory, 2:26; Code, 2:22^. Dahlia — Dacia, 
2:29J; Daireen, 2:27|. Diana — Geo. A. Ayer, 2:30; 
Lady Kelso, 2:29. Midnight — Jay-Eye-See, 2:10; 
Noontide, 2 :20^. Minerva — Meander, 2:26 J; Nugget, 
2:26|. Miss Russell — Cora Belmont, 2 :24J; Maud S., 
2:08|. Santa Maria — Billy Hoskins, 2:26^; Hylas, 
2:24^. Tackey (2:26;) — Naiad Queen, 2:21J; Pilot 
Boy, 2 :29 J. Water witch — Mambrino Gift, 2 :20 ; Scot- 
land, 2:22 J; Vicking, 2:20^. 

Handley's Hiatoga comes next with the following- 
Belle Wilson — Gen. Grant, 2:21; Gen. Lee, 2:26^; 
Grand Duchess (2 :26^;) — Galatea, 2:24|; Mary Ann, 
2:28|; Cohamet, 2:17J. Hiatoga Johnnie follows with 
Dolly Varden — Flora P., 2:24J; Lucy, 2:26|. Heff- 
ling's Hiatoga with Lady Jones — Kitty Patchen, 2 :21| ; 
Billy Scott, 2:21^ Capt. Walker with Mollie Walker 
— Harry Wilkes, 2:13J; Gen. Garfield, 2:21. Blue 
Bull with Bridget — Highland Maid, 2:29|; Highland 
Mary, 2:26. St. Clair with May Flower — Manzanita, 
(4 years, 2:16;) Wild Flower, (2 years, 2:21;) Pacing 
Kate, (unknown.) — George A., 2:24J; Jim. 2:23J 
Or, in other words, 8 pacing-bred horses have sired 
almost 15 per cent, of the mares that have 2 or more 
of their produce in the 2:30 class, with an average 
record of 2:23. A few more words on this subject. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 379 

The fastest mare, 2:08f ; the fastest gelding, 2:10; the 
fastest two-year-old, 2:21; the fastest four-year-old, 
2:16; and the fastest mare, horse or gelding at present 
on the turf, all have pacing-bred dams. The mare 
with the two fastest performers is Midnight, by Pilot Jr., 
average record 2:15 J; the mare with the fastest three is 
Miss Russell, by Pilot Jr., average record 2:17J; and 
I could go on and give a great many 2:30 performers, 
whose dams are pacing bred, but this I deem sufficient 
to set the young breeder to investigating. 

In studying this list the reader must not become 
impressed with the idea that all pacing-bred mares are 
suitable from which to breed trotting horses, for some 
pacing families, like some trotting families, do not 
possess the blood that gives them the action and 
stamina that is required in a fast trotter. Whereas, as 
is shown, a great many of the noted brood mares that 
have produced one or more 2 :30 trotters were sired by 
pacing-bred stallions, yet they possessed good blood on 
their dams' side, either through the Thoroughbred or 
trotting blood lines. This must not be lost sight of» 
for a slow, sluggish pacer that is only of ordinary 
blood cannot prove valuable as a producer of speed, no 
more than a trotting horse of the same kind could. 
In horse breeding it is of as much importance that the 
mare should be perfect as that the stallion should be 
so. They should be as near perfection in form and 
action as it is possible to get them, and of good blood, 
sound in wind and limb, bold and spirited, but of a 
kind disposition. On no account breed from an old 
worn-out mare, nor an unsound one simply because 
she is fit for nothing else. This has caused many dis- 
appointments in trying to breed trotting horses. Many 
a person has a good mare that would likely prove a 
fortune to them if bred while young and full of vigor. 
But, they say, I can't spare her, or she is too good to 



380 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

breed now; but just as soon as she is worn out by hard 
work, or becomes crippled, they want to get a colt 
from her before she dies. They breed her, and the off- 
spring, if any is obtained, proves a failure, and they 
say breeding fast trotting horses is only chance. This 
kind of breeding has disappointed many a person and 
ruined the reputation of many a good horse. No mare 
is too good to breed from, any more than a stallion is 
too good to use; and I doubt if any of our readers ever 
saw that kind of a horse, if good results are expected. 
The better the sire or dam is individually, the better 
our chanches are that we will obtain a good colt, and 
if both sire and dam are possessed of equally good 
qualities our chances are doubled. 

SPEED AN ESSENTIAL POINT. 

In breeding trotting horses, it is the speed and not 
the horse that brings the fancy price. There are hun- 
dreds of horses in the country that are as fine looking, 
have as good dispositions, and are worth as much 
money as any of the fastest trotters, for ordinary pur- 
poses, yet they do not bring a tenth of the money, be- 
cause they have not the necessary speed. If you are 
breeding for trotters, breed for the best, but try to 
combine the speed with size and beauty. For if you 
fail in getting the speed, the horse will sell well for 
other purposes. 

The American people have a natural love of 
beauty, as well as speed, and the majority would 
rather have for road use high form, with good size, 
with a reasonable amount of speed, than the ungainly 
form, with a high rate of speed. The qualities of 
style, beauty, and vitality, will also commend the fillies 
or mares for the harem, and the young stallions for 
the stud. This is becoming more noticeable every 
day. The people who go out every pleasant day for 
recreation, are rapidly substituting the handsome, 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 381 

symmetrical horse of good size, for the smaller or 
plainer one. The horse that is to supply this demand, 
must be the well-bred trotting horse, bred for size, 
speed, and beauty. He then has the instinct to trot, 
and the best ones of this breeding are as liable to go 
to the front as a more homely or smaller one. 
Whereas the breeding of trotting horses is now only 
begun, the breeders should try to avoid defective 
formation, and try to combine the speed with a larger 
and more symmetrical form. If they do this the dis- 
asters and failures will not be so numerous in the 
future as they have been in the past. 

A STANDARD-BRED TROTTER. 

According to the rules, a standard-bred trotter is 
one that has a record of 2:30, or better, provided any 
of his get has a record of 2 :40 or better, or provided 
his sire or his dam, his grand?- ire or his grandam, is 
already a standard animal; 

Or any horse that is the sire of two animals with 
a record of 2:30 or better; 

Or any horse that is the sire of one animal with a 
record of 2 :30 or better provided he has either of the fol- 
lowing additional qualifiaations: (A). A record himself 
of 2 :40 or better. (B). Is the sire of two other ani- 
mals w T ith a record of 2:40 or better. (C). Has a sire 
or dam, grandsire or granddam, that is already a 
standard amimal. 

What is termed a standard horse, is one whose 
breeding does not trace to a standard sire or dam, but 
has a record of 2:30 or better, or has produced a colt 
with a record of 2 :30 or better. 

Mares or geldings entitled to registration are: 

First, those that have a record of 2:30 or better. 

Second, any mare that has produced an animal 
with a record of 2:30 or better. 



382 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Third, the progeny of a standard horse when out 
of a standard mare. 

Fourth, the progeny of a standard horse out of a 
mare by a standard horse. 

Fifth, the progeny of a standard horse when out of 
a mare whose dam is a standard mare. 

Sixth, any mare that has a record of 2:40 or better, 
and whose sire or dam, grandsire or grandam, is a 
standard animal. 

Seventh, a record to wagon of 2 :35 or better shall 
be regarded as equal to a 2 :30 record. 

Fast horses never come by accident, but inherit 
their speed from their ancestors, and the more 
capable they are of transmitting great speed, com- 
bined with other good qualities as color, size, beauty, 
and disposition, the more valuable are they as breed- 
ers. This particularly carries its lesson to young, 
or inexperienced breeders, and others who are look- 
ing for some lucky accidental wonder. Expected acci- 
dents do not happen, and would not be accidents 
if they did. But it is the famous blood lines com- 
ing together, through sire and dam for generations, 
that produce great and fast horses. Therefore, in 
order to raise a trotting horse, use a standard bred 
trotting stallion, and also a standard mare if possible. 

POPULAR SIRES OF TROTTERS. 

As it may be interesting as well as profitable to the 
readers of this book, I will give the names, description 
and breeding of horses that have sired ten or more 
2:30 trotters, with the number they have in the 2:30, 
2:25 and 2:20 list. 

I will commence with Blue Bull, who was without 
doubt one of the marvels of the age in siring speed, 
and who stands pre-eminently at the head of the list 
of all stallions as the sire of 2 :30 trotters, of which he 
has fifty-six, twenty of which are in the 2:25 class, and 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 383 

three in the 2:20 class. He was fifteen years in the 
stud, served 1,380 mares, and got 900 living colts. He 
began his stud career as a teaser for a jack, and died 
the king of sires, judging by the number of his get in 
the 2:30 list. He was a sorrel horse, 15J hands, 
foaled in Kentucky, in 1858. As to his sire, as well as 
his dam, there is some doubt. He is credited to Old 
Sam, as well as Pruden's Blue Bull, by Merring's Blue 
Bull, the sire of many fast pacers. First dam said to 
be by young Selim. Old Sam and Pruden's Blue Bull 
as well as Blue Bull, were fast pacers. (Dead.) 

Blue Bull stands at the head of all pacing-bred 
sires, when the actual test of speed is made, and, as 
mentioned above, he has eclipsed all trotting-bred sires 
in the production of 2:30 trotters. This is simply 
marvelous so far as scientific breeding is concerned. 
But he and Old Pilot possessed such a strong infusion 
of speed producing blood, that they were capable of 
transmitting it to their descendents, though crossed 
with all kinds of mares. This was particularly so 
with Blue Bull, who fought his way to the front through 
all kinds of obstructions, by the performances of his get. 

George Wilkes, brown horse, 15| hands, by Rysdyk's 
Hambletonian, dam Dolly Spanker, by Henry Clay, 
(dead,) comes next with thirty-five in the 2:30 list, 
twenty-five in the 2:25 list, and ten in the 2:20 list. 
He is also the sire of the dams of five 2:30 horses, 
which now places him first as a trotting sire, judged 
by the speed of his get; wherein he lacks one of having 
as many 2:30 representatives as Blue Bull; yet his get 
are much faster, and more highly prized, some of his 
entire sons selling from $18,000 to $35,000 each, which 
shows that men of experience and money adhere to 
scientific breeding. 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian, bay horse, 15| hands, by 
Abdallah, by Mambrino, by imported Messenger, dam 



384 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

by imported Bellfounder (dead), comes next as a sire 
of 2:30 trotters, having forty in the 2:30 list, fifteen in 
the 2:25, and two in the 2:20 list. But Hambletonian's 
ability of transmitting to his descendants, running 
through successive generations, the ability to repro- 
duce trotters, capable of the very best performances, is 
unexcelled. In fact, Rysdyk's Hambleton n ay well 
be claimed the king of trotting producing stallions. He 
has sired forty that have trotted in 2:30 or better. He 
has ninety-six sons that have sired 421 that are in the 
2:30 list, and ninety-five grandsons that have 224 in 
the 2:30 list, and forty-nine great grandsons that have 
produced ninety-seven in the 2:30 list, and the dams 
who have produced thirty-six in the 2:30 list. 

Almont, bay horse, 15| hands high, by Alexander's 
Abdallah, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian, dam by Mam- 
brino Chief, second dam by Pilot Jr. This richly bred 
horse is the sire of twenty-nine in the 2:30 list, thir- 
teen of which are in the 2:25 list, and five in the 2:20 
list. 

Volunteer, bay horse, 15| hands, foaled in 1854, by 
Rysdyk's Hambletonian, dam Lady Patriot, by Young 
Patriot, of Diomede and Messenger descent, ranks fifth 
in the list of great trotting sires, judged by the num- 
ber of his get in the 2:30 list, of which he has twenty- 
six, while he has fifteen in the 2 :25 list, and five in the 
2:20 list. But judged by the quality of his sons and 
daughters, as shown by the total number of heats won 
by them in 2:30 or better, he has eclipsed all other 
stallions, except, perhaps, George Wilkes, as his get has 
won 678 heats in 2 :30 or better, an average of twenty- 
six heats each. Their average record is 2:23 J. 

Aberdeen, bay horse, 15| hands, by Rysdyk's Ham- 
bletonian, dam Widow Machree, by Seeley's American 
Star, has thirteen in the 2:30 list, seven in the 2:25 
list, and three in the 2:20 list. 



THE BR EL DING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. o85 

Belmont, bay horse, 16 hands high, by Alexander's 
Abdallah, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian, dam by Bell- 
founder, has seventeen in the 2:30 list, six in the 2:25 
list, and two in the 2:20 list. 

Green's Bashaw, black horse, 15J hands, by Ver- 
anl's Blackhawk, by Long Island Blackhawk, dam, 
Belle, by Tom Thumb; second dam, the dam of Rys- 
dyk's Hambletonian, has fourteen in the 2:30 list, 
seven in the 2:25 list, and one in the 2:20 list. 

Governor Sprague, 2:20^, black horse, 16 hands 
high; by Rhode Island, son of Whitehall, dam, Belle 
Bradson, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian; second dam 
Jennie, by Young Bacchus (dead), has eleven in the 
2:30 class, five in the 2:25 class, and one of 2:18. 

Princess, by Woodford Mambrino, dam, Primrose, 
by Alexander's Abdallah; second dam, Black Nose, by 
Tom Teemer, has fourteen in the 2:30 list. 

Electioneer, bay horse, 15| hands, by Rysdyk's 
Hambletonian, dam Green Mountain Maid, by Sayer's 
Henry Clay. This great sire has eleven in the 2:30 
list, eight in the 2 :25 list, andt wo in the 2 :20 list. He 
was the sire of Hindo Rose, a horse which had the 
fastest record for a colt one or three years old; also 
Wildflower, which had the best two-year-old record as 
a filly; and Fred Crocker, the noted two-year-old stal- 
lion, and of Albert W., a horse with the best four-year- 
old stallion record. This places him as a great sire of 
colts of early maturity. 

Daniel Lambert, chestnut horse, 15^ hands, by 
Ethen Allen, by Hill's Blackhawk, dam by Fanny 
Cook, by Treadwell's Abdallah. This great sire has 
twenty-five trotters in the 2:30 list, eleven of which 
are in the 2:25 list, and one in the 2:20 list, which 
places him sixth in the list of great sires of trotters, 
judged by their 2:30 representatives. 



386 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Dictator, brown horse, 15J hands, by Rysdyk's 
Hambletonian, dam, by Seely's American Star, has 
only ten representatives in the 2:30 list, six of which 
are in the 2:25 list, and four in the 2:20 list, but this 
places him as one of the most popular horses of Amer- 
ica as a sire of fast horses, being the sire of Jay-Eye- 
See, 2:10; and Phallas, 2:13|, which is one of the 
fastest trotting stallions in America, if not the fastest. 

Edward Everett, bay horse, by Rysdyk's Hamble- 
tonian, dam, Fanny, by imported Margrave, has eleven 
in the 2:30 list, nine of which are in the 2:25 list, and 
one in the 2 :20 list. 

General Knox, brown horse, 15| hands, by Ver- 
mont Hero, by Sherman's Blackhawk, dam by Sear- 
cher, has eleven in the 2:30 list, five in the 2:25 list 
and two in the 2:20 list. 

Whipple's. Hambletonian, chestnut horse, 16 hands, 
by Guy Miller, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian, dam, Mar- 
tha Washington, by Washington of Messenger descent, 
has ten or more in the 2:30 list, three in the 2:25 list, 
and one of 2:19. 

Wood's Hambletonian, roan horse, 15^ hands, by 
Alexander's Abdallah, has ten in the 2:30 list, and six 
in the 2 :25 list. 

Happy Medium, bay horse, 15f hands, by Rysdyk's 
Hambletonian, dam, Princess, by Aandrus' Hamble- 
tonian, by Bishop's Hambletonian, by imported Mes- 
senger, has twenty-two in the 2:30 list, ten in the 2:25 
list, and two in the 2 :20 list. 

Stratmore, bay horse, 16 hands, by Rysdyk's Ham- 
bletonian, dam, Lady Waltermire, by North American; 
second dam by Harris' Hambletonian, has sixteen in 
the 2:30 list, seven in the 2:25 list, and two in the 2:20 
list. 

Woodford Mambrino, bay horse, 15| hands, by 
Mambrino Chief, dam, Woodbine, by Woodford (Thor- 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 387 

oughbred), has ten in the 2:30 list, four in the 2:25 
list, and one in the 2:20 list. 

Young Columbus, bay horse, 15£ hands, by Old Co- 
lumbus, dam, Black Maria, by Harris' Hambletonian, 
by Bishop's Hambletonian, has eleven in the 2:30 list, 
and three in the 2 :25 list. 

Mambrino Patchen (brother to Lady Thorn, 2:18^), 
black horse, 16 hands, by Mambrino Chief, dam, by 
Gano, by American Eclipse, has twelve in the 2:30 
list, and three in the 2:25 list. 

Tempest Jr. chestnut horse, by Tempest, by Red 
bird, has ten pacers in the 2:30 list, five in the 2:25 
list, and three in the 2 :30 list. 

Unless I have overlooked the list, these twenty-six 
stallions are all the sires that have ten or more 2:30 
representatives, of which seventeen belong to *the 
Hambletonian family, four to the Morgan, three to the 
Mambrino Chiefs', and two to the pacing element. If 
of course is subject to a change at any time, as some 
of the stallions herein named may obtain other 2:30 
representatives, and other stallions may enter the list, 
as some of them are close up to it now. But this list will 
suffice to show how stallions should be bred to pro- 
duce fast trotting colts. Following this list I will give 
the breeding of the noted brood mares, which will 
show what blood lines should be united to produce 
the best results. 

NOTED BROOD MARES. 

Green Mountain Maid is considered the most 
famous speed-producing mare that ever lived. She 
never had a foal that could not beat 2:30. Seven of 
her foals sold from Stony Ford for $46,330, and seven 
of her sons and daughters are still at this famous 
home of trotters. She was sired by Harry Clay, still 
living, and her dam was Shanghai Mary, a mare of 



388 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

unknown blood, but thought to be a Thoroughbred. 
She is the dam of the great Electioneer. 

Miss Russel, by Pilot, Jr., by Old Pilot, was the 
dam of three colts with records better than 2:25; in- 
cluding the famous Maud S, 2:08f ; Nutwood, 2:18|; 
and Belmont, 2:24|. 

Midnight, by Pilot, Jr., was the dam of Jay-Eye- 
See, 2:10; and Noontide 2:20J. 

Dolly, by Mambrino Chief, has three sons in the 
2:30 list. Director 2:17; Thorndale, 2:22^; and On- 
ward, 2:25^. 

The dams of Maxy Cobb, 2:13 J; and Phallas, 
2:13!; tne ^ wo fastest trotting stallions known, were 
by Clark Chief, by Mambrino Chief, while the dam of 
the famous Goldsmith Maid, 2:14, was by Old 
Abdallah. 

THE GREAT BROOD MARE FAMILIES. 

The influence of the dam in the breeding of trotters 
has of late years been a subject to which those inter- 
ested in the production of fast and enduring trotters 
have given earnest and intelligent attention, and so 
rapid has been the advance in this branch of the 
breeding problem, that already there are certain 
strains of blood which experience has proved will not 
"nick," while the union of others has produced the 
results aimed at with such uniformity that when the 
lines are commingled the product is almost certain to 
be a trotter of merit. Year by year the breeding of 
the horses that perform successfully on the trotting 
track is becoming better known, and in these days 
when an animal enters the 2:30 list his pedigree is at 
once demanded and given to the public. Formerly it 
was esteemed sufficient for all practical purposes, that 
the sire alone of a 2:30 trotter be given, but now the 
lines are extended back on both sides of the house as 
far as they may be, and one result of this practice is 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 389 

that the time is not far distant when the term " thor- 
oughbred trotter " will have a meaning, and we can 
trace the breeding of our turf performers through five 
generations of trotting blood. 

And now that the records of the season of 1885 
have been completed, it is possible to show what 
families have produced the greatest number of success- 
ful brood-mares — that is, mares that have foaled one 
or more trotters with records of 2:30 or better. The 
result of a rather exhaustive and careful investigation 
which the Breeders' Gazette has made of this matter 
is given herewith, and is worth consideration. Eleven 
families being treated of, and as this list contains prac- 
tically all the mares by any one stallion that have 
produced six or more trotters in the 2:30 list, it may 
be fairly considered as treating the subject in about as 
comprehensive a manner as is possible. These eleven 
families, given in order of merit, are as follows, the 
name of the stallion being given in each case, and the 
number of 2:30 trotters produced by his daughters: 

Seely's American Star 35 

Pilot Jr 20 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian 18 

Mambrino Chief 16 

Alexander's Abdallah 16 

Mambrino Patchen 13 

Sayre's Hatry Clay 12 

Ethan Allen 8 

Henry Clay 8 

Capt. Walker 6 

American Clay .... 6 

That the daughters of Seely's American Star should 
take such a commanding lead at this day over all com- 
petitors is astonishing; and it is probable that in spite 
of the care exercised, there are some trotters whose 
dams are said to be by American Star that have no 
good title to the place they occupy, but even with these 
omitted he would still stand far in advance of all 



390 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

other stallions as a sire of brood mares. And in the 
case of American Star, as well as other horses in the 
list, the fact that it was with horses of the Hambleto- 
nian family that the greatest successes were attained, 
should not be lost sight of. There has been a great 
deal of nonsensical talk lately about the advisability 
of using mares with a strong infusion of Thorough- 
blood in their veins when the result sought is the pro- 
duction of trotters, and in this connection the tabular 
statements given above will prove of interest. With 
the exception of Seely's American Star, all the horses 
whose daughters have gained prominence in the breed- 
ing ranks have for their near and most powerful 
crosses only trotting blood, and within the past two 
years it has been pretty conclusively demonstrated 
that Seeley's American Star was not even the three- 
quarters Thoroughbred that he was formerly claimed 
to be. But even where there is a close strain of run- 
ning blood it will be seen that it has been overcome by 
the greater potency of the trotting sires to which the 
mares were bred. Of the thirty-five 2:30 trotters 
from daughters of Seely's American Star, we find that 
fifteen were sired by Bysdyk's Hambletonian, eleven 
by his sons, two by his grandsons, and others by such 
trotting-bred stallions as Ethan Allen, Jupiter (son of 
Long Island Black Hawk,) Idol and Andrew Jackson 
Jr. In the case of the Pilot Jr. mares there is a direct 
mixture of trotting and pacing blood, and as the two 
gaits which these terms represent are interchangeable, 
it is natural that from their combination should come 
the fastest trotters in the world — Maud S. and Jay- 
Eye-See; and it is also true that the best trotters out 
of Pilot Jr. mares are by direct male descendants of 
Bysdyk's Hambletonian; Maud S. and Jay-Eye-See 
being by his Sons Harold and Dictator, and Nutwood 
by his grandson Belmont, the three mentioned be- 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 391 

ing the only ones out of Pilot Jr. mares that have 
beaten 2:20. The Mambrino Chief blood also nicked 
well with that of Pilot Jr., Mambrino Gift, the first 
stallion to trot in 2:20, being by Mambrino Pilot, son 
of Mambrino Chief, and it should also be noted that 
the dam of this successful sire, two of whose entire 
sons have trotted in 2:20 or better, was by Pilot Jr., so 
that in Mambrino Gift there was a double infusion of 
the Pilot Jr. blood. Woodford Mambrino got a pair 
of 2:30 trotters from Pilot Jr. mares; Wedgewood, a 
trotting son of Belmont, got another; Gov. Sprague, 
also a trotter, was successful at the first time of asking, 
getting Dixie Sprague (2:25 J) from the old-time trot- 
ting mare Dixie. Dictator produced Code, and Clark 
Chief got Blanche Amory (2:26). Even the thor- 
oughbred stallion Bonnie Scotland got a trotter when 
bred to Waterwitch ; Scotland (2 :22i) being the result, 
but he was a lunatic sort of a trotter that always 
wanted to run when that gait would not win the money. 
But when Waterwitch received the embrace of the 
trotting stallion Mambrino Pilot she threw a faster 
trotter than Scotland and a far more level-headed one; 
and, more than that, Mambrino Gift, in spite of his 
early death, has proven himself a sire of trotters. 

It is only a few years ago that it was claimed that 
the daughters of Rysdyk's Hambletonian were not 
proving a success in the breeding ranks. Gov. Sprague 
and Bateman being at that time about the only trot- 
ters out of Hambletonian mares to be found in the 
2:30 list. But of late the accessions to the list have 
been made rapidly, until now there are eighteen 2:30 
trotters whose dams were sired by Rysdyk's Hamble- 
tonian, among them being such clinkers as Trinket, 
Duquesne and Gov. Sprague. Some of these trotters 
out of Hambletonian mares are inbred, instances of 
this kind being Amy, 2:20^, by Volunteer; King 



392 THE BREEDING OP HORSES A SCIENCE,, 

Philip 2:21, by Jay Gould; Day Dream, 2:21|, by 
Cuyler; Black Prince, 2;25^, by Wilkins Micawber, 
and Fleet Medium, by Happy Medium. When we 
come to the Mambrino Chief mares, they having been 
the dams or sixteen 2 :30 trotters, we again find that 
a large majority of them were successful only when 
bred to Hambletonian or his sons. Dolly, the most 
famous daughter of Mambrino Chief in the breeding 
ranks, has three sons in the 2:30 list — Director, 2:17, 
Thorndale, 2 :22 J, and Onward, 2 :25J. All three are by 
sons of Hambletonian, their sires being Dictator, 
Alexander's Abdallah and George Wilkes, and every 
one of these stallions was a natural trotter. Of the 
other thirteen 2:30 trotters whose dams were by Mam- 
brino Chief, one is by Rysdyk's Hambletonian, three 
by sons of his and two by a grandson, the others being 
without exception, by trotting-bred sires. 

This is a wonderful showing, but nothing more than 
might reasonably be looked for. Mambrino Chief 
mares, American Star mares, Hambletonian mares 
and Pilot Jr. mares were bred by the score and by the 
hundred, but when, after the lapse of years, the results 
are examined, it was found that the ones which pro- 
duced trotters were those bred to stallions that came 
from trotting families, and of course the leading trotting 
families make the best showing. The other tables tell 
the same story„ The Mambrino Patchen mares, that 
are coming to the front with wonderful rapidity as the 
dams of 2:30 trotters, have now contributed thirteen to 
the list. Six of these are by George Wilkes, son of 
Kysdyk's Hambletonian ; one by Alcyone, son of George 
Wilkes; and one each by Cuyler, Menelaus and Strath- 
more, sons of Rysdyk's Hambletonian. How the 
other two are bred on the side of their sires, we do not 
know. Daughters of Sayre's Harry Clay have pro- 
duced twelve 2:30 horses. Two of these are by Rys- 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 393 

dky's Hambletonian, nine by two of his sons, Volun- 
teer and Messenger Duroc, and one by a grandson, J. 
R. Reese. 

To sum the matter up concisely, we find that of the 
one hundred and fifty-seven trotters whose names are 
given in the appended tables nineteen were sired by 
Rysdyk's Hambletonian, fifty-six by his sons, and 
seventeen by his gandsons, a total of ninety-two or 
nearly two-thirds of the entire list. 

Since this was written, in 1885, there have been 
some changes in the number of 2:30 representasives 
credited to these stallions. For instance, with Rys- 
dyk's Hambletonian, who now has thirty-six instead 
of eighteen; and some of the others have also made 
gains, which I am not able to correctly give, but this 
will suffice to show to what trotting families the best 
brood mares belong. 

Following this I will give the names of all horses 
with records of 2:14 or less, trotting or pacing, one 
mile in harness; also the fastest records, trotting or 
pacing, all distances, and all ways going. To give the 
records of horses with records slower than 2:14 would 
comprise a large list, and as it is the families that pos- 
sess the greatest amount of speed we wish to know, 
this list will be sufficient. 

RECORDS OF 2:14 OR LESS, TROTTING IN HARNESS. 

Time, 2:08|. Maud S., sorrel mare, 15| hands, 
Queen of the turf and Empress of all the trotters, was 
foaled in Kentucky in 1875. Sire, Harold, by Rys- 
dyk's Hambletonian; dam, Miss Russel, by Pilot, Jr., 
by Old Pilot. At Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 11, 1884, 
she trotted in 2:09f, and afterwards lowered it as above. 

Time, 2 :10. Jay-Eye-See, black gelding, 14| hands. 
This celebrated gelding, which ranks next to Maud S., 
with a record only one and a quarter seconds slower, 
was foaled in Kentucky in 1878. Sire, Dictator, by 



394 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Rysdyk's Hambletonian ; dam, Midnight, by Pilot, Jr. 
At Chicago, Illinois, July, 1884. 

Time, 2:11|. St. Julian, bay gelding, 16J hands, 
foaled in New York in 1870. Sire, Volunteer, by Rys- 
dyk's Hambletonian; dam, by Saver's Henry Clay. 
At Hartford, Connecticut, August 28, 1880. 

Time, 2:13^. Rarus, bay gelding 16 hands, foaled 
in New York in 1869. Sire, Conkling's Abdallah, by 
Old Abdallah; dam, by Telegraph. At Buffalo, New 
York, August 3, 1878. 

Time, 2:13|. Maxy Cobb, bay stallion, 15J hands, 
foaled in Kentucky in 1877. Sire, Happy Medium, by 
Rysdyk's Hambletonian; dam, Lady Jenkins, by Clark 
Chief, by Mambrino Chief. At Providence, Rhode 
Island, September 30, 1884. This is the best stallion 
record. 

Time, 2:13|. Phallas, bay stallion, 15| hands ? 
foaled in Kentucky in 1877. Sire, Dictator, by Rys- 
dyk's Hambletonian; dam, Betsey Trotwood, by Clark 
Chief, by Mambrino Chief. At Chicago, Illinois, July, 
1884. 

Time, 2:14. Goldsmith Maid, bay mare, 15^ hands, 
for many years the Queen of the turf and Empress of 
all the trotters, was foaled in New York in 1857 
Sire, Alexander's Abdallah, dam, by Old Abdallah. 
Alexander's Abdallah, by Rysdyk's Hambletonian; 
dam, by Bay Roman. Although Maud S. stands at 
the head of the list of trotters, yet seven horses have 
trotted more heats in 2:20 or better than the Queen, 
for she has trotted but twenty-eight heats under the 
time mentioned, while Goldsmith Maid has 114 heats 
to her credit in that time, and during her time on the 
turf she won 122 races, which, more than likely, will 
not be equaled soon. Harry Wilkes has seventy-nine 
heats to his creedit in 2:20 or better, Rarus 67, Hope- 
ful 59, St- Julien 43, Jay-Eye-See 29 and Trinket 29. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 395 

There are fifty-eight horses that have five heats or 
more to their credit in 2:20 or better. Commenting on 
a table of trotters that have won twenty-five or more 
races, Griffin, of the " Turf, Field and Farm," says: 
"No doubt 25,000 horses have participated in trot- 
ting races in this country, and yet only 104 have 
succeeded in winning the apparently not very large 
number of twenty-five races. Goldsmith Maid, who 
heads the list with 122 victories, was a phenomenon 
probably for all time, and had exceptional -advan- 
tages, as a large proportion of her races were against 
time, and she reigned supreme for so many years. 
In the latter respect Maud S. bids fair to surpass 
her, but the present Queen of the turf does not 
reach the list at all, having been owned by Messrs. 
Vanderbilt and Bonner since she assumed the throne, 
who did not care to trot her beyond what was neces- 
sary to maintain her supremacy. It does not seem 
likely that the record of Goldsmith Maid as a winner 
of races will ever be surpassed. Competition increases 
yearly, and it becomes more and more difficult to get 
first to the wire in three heats. Considerably more 
than one-half of the best records of the performers who 
reached the tables were made prior to 1880. Had the 
line been drawn at fifty or more, only eleven horses 
would have entered the table, viz: Dick Wright, 50; 
American Girl, 52; Hopeful, 55; Joe Ripley, 55; Phyl- 
lis, 57; Blue Belle, 61; Driver, 62; Rarus, 63; Lady 
Suffolk. 84; Flora Temple, 97; and Goldsmith Maid, 
122. All of these but Deck Wright and Driver are 
dead to the American turf, and as I scan the whole 
list it seems to me most likely that at least eighty of 
the 104, for one reason or another, will never score 
again for the word in this country. Many are dead, 
many more are superannuated, several have gone to 



396 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Europe and a number of others are retired, probably 
permanently, for road uses." 

PACERS WITH RECORDS OF 2:14 OR LESS, ONE MILE IN 

HARNESS. 

Time, 2:06j. Johnson, bay gelding, 15| hands, 
foaled in Michigan in 1879. Sire, Joe Basset, by Billy 
Bashaw. At Chicago, Illinois, in 1884. 

Time, 2:1 If. Little Brown Jug, brown gelding, at 
Chicago, Illinois, in 1881. Also the three fastest 
consecutive heats: 2:11|, 2:11|, 2:12^. 

Time, 2:12^ Sleepy Tom (Blind Tom), chestnut 
gelding. At Chicago, Illinois, in 1879. This horse 
was considered the pacing wonder, being stone blind, 
and one of the sensational pacers of those days. He 
was foaled in Ohio in 1867. Sire, Tom Rolf; dam, by 
Sam Hazard. 

2:12^. Buffalo Girl,, bay mare, Pittsburgh, Pennsyl- 
vania. 

2:12^. Mattie Hunter, sorrel mare, Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania. 

2:12 J. Rich Ball, brown gelding, Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania. 

2:13. Gem, bay mare, Cleveland, Ohio. 

2:13. Rowdy Boy, black gelding, Rochester, N. Y. 

2:13. Flora Bell, black mare, East Saganaw, Mich. 

2:13|. Fuller, bay gelding, Maysville, Kentucky. 

2:13|. Westmont, chestnut gelding, Chicago, 111. 

2:14. Billy S., bay gelding, Buffalo, N. Y. 

2:14. Sorrel Dan, sorrel gelding, Saganaw, Mich. 

2:14. Lucy, gray mare, Chicago, 111. 

2.14. Sweetzer, gray gelding, California. 

FASTEST TROTTING AND PACING RECORDS ALL DIS- 
TANCES AND ALL WAYS GOING. 

One mile, by a yearling filly — Hinda Rose, San 
Francisco California, Nov, 14, 1881, 2:36^ 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 397 

One mile, by a yearling stallion — Nutbreaker, Lex- 
ington, Kentucky, Oct. 14, 1884, 2:42J. 

One mile, by a two-year-old filly — Wildflower, San 
Francisco, Oct, 22, 1881, 2:21. 

One mile, by a two-year-old stallion — Fred Crocker, 
San Francisco, Nov. 20, 1880, 2:25£. 

One mile, by a three-year-old filly — Hinda Rose, 
Lexington, Kentucky, Oct. 10, 1883, 2:19|. 

One mile, by a three-year-old stallion — Steinway, 
Lexington, Kentucky August 28, 1879, 2:25|. 

One mile, by a four-year-old filly — Sallie Benton, 
San Francisco, Dec. 13, 1884, 2:17|. 

One mile, by a four-year-old stallion — Albert W., 
Oakland, California, Sept. 5, 1882, 2:22. 

One mile, by a four-year-old gelding, Jay-Eye-See, 
Chicago, Illinois, September 23, 1882, 2:19. 

One mile, by a five-year-old filly — Trinket, Dover, 
Delaware, Sept. 30, 1880, 2:19J. 

One mile, by a five-year-old stallion — Santa Claus, 
Sacramento, California, Sept. 11, 1879, 2:18. 

One mile, by a five-year-old gelding — Jay-Eye-See, 
Providence, Rhode Island, Sept, 13, 1883, 2:10f. 

One mile, over a half-mile track- — Rarus, Toledo, 
Ohio, July 20, 1878,2:16. 

Two miles — Monroe Chief, Lexington Kentucky, 
October 21, 1882, 4:46. 

Three miles — Huntress, at Prospect Park, Long 
Island, Sept. 21, 1872, 7:21 J. 

Four miles — Trustee, Union Course, Long Island, 
June 13, 1849, 11:06. 

Five miles — Lady Mack, San Francisco, California, 
April 2, 1874,13:00. 

Ten miles — Controller, San Francisco, California, 
Nov. 23, 1878,27:23^ 

Twenty miles — Captain McGowan, Boston, Massa- 
chusetts, Oct. 31, 1865, 58:25. 



398 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

Fifty miles — Ariel, Albany, New York, May 5, 
1846, 3 hours, 55 minutes and 40^ seconds. 

One hundred miles — Conquerer, Centreville, Long 
Island, Nov. 12, 1853, 8 hours, 55 minutes and 53 
seconds. 

One hundred and one miles — Fanny Jenks, Albany, 
New York, May 5, 1845, 9 hours, 42 minutes and 57 
seconds. 

TROTTING TO WAGON. 

One mile — Hopeful, Chicago, Illinois, Oct. 12, 
1878, 2:16^. 

One mile, drawing 1,000 pounds — Mountain Maid, 
Long Island, 1865, 3:42J. 

Two miles — General Butler, Fashion Course, Long 
Island, June 18, 1863, 4:56^, and Dexter, Fashion 
Course, Long Island, Oct. 27, 1865, 4:56^. 

Three miles — Prince, Union Course, Long Island, 
Sept. 15, 1857, 7:53J. 

Five miles — Little Mac, Fashion Course, Long 
Island, Oct, 29, 1863, 13:43^. 

Ten Miles — John Stuart, Boston, Massachusetts, 
June 30, 1868, 28:02^. 

Twenty miles — Controller, San Francisco, Cali- 
fornia, April 20, 1878, 58:57. 

Fifty miles — Spangle, Union Course, Long Island, 
Oct. 15, 1855, 3 hours, 59 minutes, and 4 seconds. 

TROTTING UNDER SADDLE. 

One mile — Great Eastern, Fleetwood Park, New 
York, Sept. 22, 1871, 2:15|. 

Two miles — George M. Patchen, Fashion Course, 
Long Island, July 1, 1863, 4.56. 

Three miles — Dutchman, Beacon Course, New 
Jersey, Aug. 1, 1839, 7:32 J. 

Four miles — Dutchman, Centreville Course, Long 
Island, May, 1836, 10:51. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 399 
TROTTING AND PACING, DOUBLE TEAMS. 

One mile — Maxy Cobb and Neta Medium, New 
York, Nov. 13, 1884, 2:15f. 

Four in hand — W. J Gordon's team 2:40. 

One hundred miles — Master Burk and Robin, 
1834, 10 hours, 17 minutes and 22 seconds. 

TROTTER WITH RUNNING MATE. 

One mile — H. B. Winship and Gabe Case, Provi- 
dence, Rhode Island, Aug. 1, 1884, 2:06. 

Three miles — Ethan Allen and running mate, 
1861, 7:03|. 

PACING IN HARNESS. 

One mile — Johnston (gelding), Chicago, Oct. 3, 
1884, 2:06J. 

One mile — Buffalo Girl, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, 
July 27, 1883, 2:12^. 

One mile — Cohannet (stallion), Providence, Rhode 
Island, Sept. 9, 1884, 2:18|. 

Two miles — Defiance and Longfellow, Sacramento, 
California, Sept. 26, 1872, 4:47|. 

Three miles — James K. Polk, Centreville, Long 
Island, Sept. 13, 1847, 7:44. 

Four miles — Longfellow, San Francisco, California, 
Dec. 31, 1869, 10:34^. 

Five miles — Onward, San Francisco, California, 
Dec. 11, 1874, 12:54|. 

PACING UNDER SADDLE. 

One mile — Billy Boice, Buffalo, New York, Aug. 
1, 1868, 2:14^ 

Two miles — James K. Polk, Philadelphia, Penn- 
sylvania, June 20, 1850, 4:57J. 

Three miles — Oneida Chief, Beacon Course, New 
Jersey, Aug. 14, 1843, 7:44. 

PACING TO WAGON. 

One mile — Sweetzer, Chico, California, Nov. 21, 

!873,2:17i 



400 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

One mile — Pocahontas, at Union Course, Long 
Island, June 21, 1855, drawing 265 lbs., 2:17|. 

Two miles — Hero Centreville, Long Island, Oct. 
17,1855,4:59. 

PACING WITH RUNNING MATE. 

Westmont, chestnut gelding, by Almont, dam by 
Cattrill Morgan, with running mate, paced a mile at 
Chicago, Illinois, Oct. 31, 1884, in 2:01f. Minnie R., 
bay mare, at the same time in 2:03f. 

A writer who has been examining into the matter, 
finds that there are 1,900 or more trotters with records 
of 2 :30 or better, 600 of which have records of 2 :25 or 
better, 130 with records of 2:20 or better, 12 with 
records of 2:15 or better, and 2 with records of 2:10 or 
better. Of the horses in the 2:30 list 874 are geldings, 
667 mares, and 371 stallions. Of these 989 are bays, 
316 Chestnuts, 187 browns, 184 blacks, 165 Grays, 45 
roans, 10 duns, 18 whites, 4 spotted, 1 blue, and 4 of 
unknown color. There are 385 pacing horses with 
records of 2:30 or better, 176 in 2:25 or better, 55 in 
2:20 or better, 16 in 2:15 or better, and 1 in 2:10 or 
better. The sex is 255 geldings, 103 mares, and 27 
stallions. In color they are bays, 167; chestnuts, 71; 
grays, 50; blacks, 32; browns, 30; roans, 26; duns, 8; 
spotted, 1 ; and 1 unknown color. 

BREEDING DRAFT HORSES. 

The breeding of draft horses in America of late 
years has become a very extensive business, and is one 
that the farmer, who has good, large mares, though 
only of ordinary blood, can safely invest in, for the 
breeding of such mares to purely bred draft horses 
cannot fail to produce profitable results at once, 
whereas to breed them to any other stallion, might 
prove a failure. The idea that a great many breeders 
have, that the breeding of draft horses will be over- 
done, and the market stocked so they cannot be sold, 



THE BREEDING OP HORSES A SCIENCE. 401 

is an error. The demand for good horses of any kind, 
and for draft and road horses especially, will always 
exceed the supply, and the sooner the idea that the 
breeding of draft horses will be overdone is abandoned 
the better, for the demand is all the time calling for 
more and better horses. There is no question but that 
the demand for good draft horses is much in excess of 
the supply, with prices relatively higher than for any 
other class of live stock to be found on the farm, ex- 
cept fine road horses, and still climbing higher; and 
yet there are men who are too penurious to pay a 
liberal fee for the service of a stallion which, crossed 
on even the commonest kind of a mare, insures a colt 
that will develop into a horse that will command a 
price which the true value of a scrub will never ap- 
proach. Stud fees for trotting and running horses of 
known merit are getting higher every year, and it is a 
noticeable fact that the horses which command the 
highest fees have their books full first. This shows 
that the breeders of fast horses have learned that it 
does not pay to let a few dollars keep them in the 
ranks of second-class breeders, and expect second-class 
prices for their stock after it is bred and reared. The 
breeders of draft horses are beginning to awake to this 
fact also. The result is the same in both classes of 
breeding. True, there are no startling developments 
to be expected from heavy grades of horses as some- 
times occur with trotters and runners to increase the 
prices of certain families or strains, but when the off- 
spring of stallions that have been bred so that no bad 
blood can be found in their pedigrees sell for fifty or a 
hundred per cent, more money than the offspring of 
the mongrel, it should create enough sensation to at- 
tract the attention of breeders to investigate and find 
out in which direction the money lies. If all the 
farmers of this country who breed horses were to look 



402 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

at this matter in the proper light, the best classes of 
draft stallions would soon have their books full also, 
and the valuation of the farm horses would be in- 
creased to an astonishing degree. The theory with 
some breeders, and especially the owners of draft horses, 
that the breeding of draft horses is a safer business, 
commanding surer profits than the breeding of road, 
coach and track horses, has caused a great growth 
of favoritism for mammoth horses, in some sections 
of the country, and the Norman, Clydesdale and others 
have added vastly to the wealth of the United States, 
and it would be well if more of them were introduced 
in most parts, but this idea, like others that are 
harped upon so much will not always hold good but 
must be governed by circumstancs. The man who is 
breeding ordinary cold blooded farm horses or any 
other class of horses, on a hit or miss principle, who 
is not educated in the more modern art of breeding 
horses, and who is opposed to reading either books or 
papers upon the subject, could do better, and would 
certainly increase the earnings of his farm by the in- 
troduction of any pure draft blood, for when so doing 
he has taken a long step in advance. But the man 
who has standard trotting blood or approved families, 
and is engaged in breeding trotting horses, or may pos- 
sess a few, or even one well bred trotting mare of good 
action, does not take a forward step when he intro- 
duces the draft blood upon such mares, for the average 
price paid for good track horses, of any age, broke or 
unbroke, is above the price paid for good draft horses, 
and the average price paid for well bred geldings or 
mares. For every " draft stallion that has been sold in 
the United States for $5,000, there has been five trot- 
ting stallions sold for $15,000," and as great a difference 
has been obtained for good brood mares. Again, the 
pi ice obtained for the service of a good standard-bred 




THE CLYDESDALE. 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 405 

trotting stallion is always in advance of that obtained 
for a draft stallion. This has been one of the great 
drawbacks with the average farmer, who, slow to see, 
(or rather to admit,) and adopt the use of a well bred 
horse, at a reasonable price, plods along in the same 
old rut, breeding scrubs, or else breeds his valuable 
trotting mare to a draft horse or likely to a jack. Again 
the average farmer seems to think — or at least such 
has come under my observation very often, that they 
cannot raise a good trotting colt, for if they do, they 
must have it educated to the road, and track, and 
probably have it trained to trot, and that is expensive, 
where if they raise a draft colt or scrub, they can work 
it themselves, or sell it unbroke. Now that is only an 
idea. It is no more trouble, nor expense, to raise or 
break a trotting colt than it is a draft or any other colt, 
if properly conducted. But on account of being of 
good blood, they will not stand the abuse that a cold 
blooded colt will, and if not properly handled are 
harder to control. But once educated to do what you 
wish them to do, let that be what it will, either \ \ 
work on the farm or road, they never forget it, and are 
always ready for whatever they are called upon to do, 
more willingly, more capable, and far more trusty than 
the cold blooded horse; and because a farmer may 
raise a good trotting colt, it is no reason that he should 
spend the worth of it with some professional trainer, 
unless desired. It will sell without track work for 
more than the average draft colt, and double that of 
the scrub at the same age ; and my experience and ob- 
servations are, if properly conducted, the average 
farmer can raise both draft and trotting colts, provid- 
ing he has suitable mares, at a better profit than he 
can to confine himself to either one alone. 

But as before mentioned, if one has only draft, or 
cold blooded mares, he will do better to confine him 



406 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

self to draft horses, for less mistakes are made in 
breeding this class of horses than in breeding fast 
horses, and is less exciting, and not as apt to lead one 
astray. But even in breeding draft horses, good judg- 
ment must be exercised to obtain good results. The 
mistake that so many farmers make is, to first breed 
their mares to one breed of draft horses, and then if a 
fillie is obtained, breed her to some other breed. Such 
breeding can never produce as good results, as to select 
one breed and continue its use. The foreign ideas of 
horse breeding should teach us this, for that is the 
reason they have so much better draft horses than we. 
Each country confines itself principally to one breed, 
thus avoiding any cross. Nothing but approved 
stallions are used, and in this way they are able to im- 
prove their stock. 

Inasmuch as the French were the founders of the 
Percheron breed and brought them up to their present 
excellence, their ideas on the subject are entitled to 
consideration. The breeders of Percheron s are urged 
that while securing good mares — and the best stallions 
as a matter of course — not to overlook the equally es- 
sential point of having abundance of food, and of a 
good quality all the year round. In meadows where a 
medium sized animal will prosper, a larger built one 
will not succeed. The want of appropriate food will 
affect the gestation of the mare and later, the foal will 
not have adequate supply of milk to secure the basis 
of its desired stature and marketable bulk. 

This is something that breeders of draft horses 
should bear in mind, that to obtain size in a draft 
horse, and especially at an early age, it requires a 
liberal allowance of food. The feed that would develop 
and bring a small horse to maturity, would be inade- 
quate for the draft colt. It is on the same principle 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 407 

as raising large or small breeds of cattle. Where a 
Devon or some other small breed of cattle would thrive 
and do well, the Short-horn or Hereford would scar- 
cely live. 

The advocates of pure Percheron Normans urge 
the rejection of all English as well as other blood, but 
practice selection among the best type of Percherons, 
to keep up the excellency of that race, but do not cross 
it with foreign blood. If you want vigor and vivacity 
rely on oats. 

Attention is also being given to rear horses free 
from curbs — those hard tumors on the hocks or be- 
low the knees. If these excresences be due to an acci- 
dent, a fall, or over-exercise, the matter is of secondary 
importance; if otherwise, they indicate a lymphatic and 
feeble constitution, and the mare so affected should be 
avoided. So ought too large or too small, or mal- 
formed hoofs. 

WHY THEY RAISE GOOD HORSES. 

"As shown from authentic reports, the French gov- 
ernment expends annually upon its horse-breeding 
establishments no less than $1,348,600. The govern- 
ment of Austria gives something over $400,000, and 
that of Hungary $582,500 toward the encouragement 
of horse-breeding, but a large amount ($80,000) in 
Austria alone is spent on the purchase of promise- 
ing-looking young horses from private breeders for in- 
corporation in the government establishments. The 
total asked for the purpose of improving the breed of 
horses in Austria alone is little short of $700,000 a 
year. In Prussia there are eighteen establishments, 
three of which consist of stallions and brood mares. 
The remaining fifteen are situated in the various prov- 
inces, and are depots for the stallions bred in these 
three studs referred to. The cost of the breeding 
establishments maybe roughly estimated at $400,000." 



408 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

PACERS AS SADDLE HORSES. 

The impression prevails among those not familiar 
with the subject that any family of pacers are saddlers. 
This is a mistake. There is no animal of the equine 
race more abominable under the saddle than a scrub 
pacer, in whose ancestry, for a dozen years or more 
nothing but cold blood can be found. A brute of this 
kind would require as much time and space to turn in 
as a cow, would stuble on a wax floor, and, if he failed 
to break his riders neck in this way, would jolt the life 
out of him in a rough pace. From this family of 
pacers no good can ever come until they are crossed 
with some blood that will give them action. But there 
is another class of pacers that stand pre-eminently 
above all other species of the horse kind; from their 
loins have come the kings and queens of the trotting 
and pacing turf, and the best saddle horses of the 
country. These show the clean limbs arid supple 
action of the Thoroughbred blood that has nicked so 
kindly with their pacing ancestors. It is from stal- 
lions of this kind, with two, three, or four pacing 
crosses on top of a Thoroughbred foundation, that the 
best saddle horses will come when coupled with one- 
half or three-quarters Thoroughbred mares, so that 
the produce will have from 30 to 40 per cent, of Thor- 
oughbred blood in it. It is generally conceded that 
a Thoroughbred can live longer and go farther under 
the saddle, with weight up in proportion to his size, 
than any other horse. Nature seems to have in- 
tended him especially for this purpose. But in breed- 
ing the saddle horse as described, man has improved 
upon nature, and secured not only a more serviceable 
animal, but one that will stand more constant riding. 
As a rule a Thoroughbred has no inclination to go 
any of the artificial gaits, and when forced out of a 
walk goes into a trot, and out of this into a gallop. 



THE BKEEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 409 

On the other hand a well-bred saddle horse will glide 
along five or seven miles an hour in a smooth, friction- 
less running-walk, without ajar to himself or rider; and 
at either of those gaits will go farther, with less fatigue 
to both horse and rider, than a Thoroughbred carrying 
the same weight and moving at the same speed in a 
trot. The Thoroughbred will last, and upon this line 
we rely for courage, activity, capacity and willingness 
to go. But he is not inclined to the saddle gaits, and 
takes them with an effort when compelled to. When, 
however, his blood is mixed with that of a well-bred 
pacer the produce has a natural disposition to saddle, 
in addition to the valuable qualities of the runner. 
For this reason it is necessary to unite the two lines of 
blood in one animal in order to get the best material 
that nature can give, and out of which a first-class 
saddle horse can be made. 

" The memory of man extends to the day when the 
boys on the farm were proud to ride a fine young 
horse to church or to visit the fairer sex. They took 
pride in the colts, and taught them to move freely un- 
der the saddle, and above all, when the colt was 
broken he was taught to walk. Now the boys must 
have a fine buggy and harness, and the colt must show 
his style and speed all the time. The boy is in too 
great a hurry to allow the colt to walk. The colt, buggy, 
and boy, are soon a used up set by fast driving." 

If we could return to the fashion of riding on 
horseback, we would save millions to the farmers, and 
the boys and girls would develop better forms and 
have better health. Any lazy lout can ride in a 
buggy, but to be a graceful rider on horseback, one 
must have some energy and get up in their nature. 
There is life and health in horseback riding. The 
whole system feels the invigorating effect of it. The 
rider and the horse catch the fire of sympathy and ex- 



410 THE BREEDING O*' HORSES A SCIENCE. 

citement in the run or fast paces, and every nerve and 
muscle of the body is brought into healthful, invigor- 
ating play. The farmer will find it to his interest to 
raise a class of colts that the boys would like to ride. 
He can raise three or four fine saddle colts for what 
one buggy and harness will cost, and a fair saddle 
horse will always sell at a good price. 

THE GENERAL PURPOSE HORSE. 

The diversity of opinion among horsemen, upon 
this question, as how the general purpose horse should 
be bred is as great, probably, as upon any other one 
question in the art of breeding horses. Some breeders 
claim that the best general purpose horse, is one pro- 
duced by a cross of a Thoroughbred or trotting stallion 
upon large cold blooded mares. Others claim right vice 
versa to this; while others claim that the only way to 
produce such a horse, is by the coupling of large trot- 
ting or pacing bred stallions, with mares of the same 
kind, or our large native mares. And if ever a general 
purpose class of horses are produced, one that can be 
relied upon as to their service, my opinion is that 
the last mentioned way is the best way, and the only 
way it will ever be done. That the general purpose 
horse should be composed of good blood, that will 
give him action and stamina as well as size, no intelli- 
gent breeder will dispute, for without this, how would 
anyone expect him to fill the numerous wants of man 
and serve him at home, on the farm, in the plow, or 
wagon, on the road, in the carriage, or under the saddle. 
A general purpose horse, like a general purpose cow, 
may be classed as a handy kind of animal, 
suited for a great many purposes, under divers circum- 
stances; but his value as a selling animal, cannot be 
rated very highly, for as a general thing the class of 
people that want him are not willing to pay a fancy 
price for a horse. Those that have the color, action, 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 411 

and style combined with size enough for carriage use, 
full 16 hands high or more, with fine finish, are the 
horses of this class, that bring the best prices. Any 
intelligent breeder of these days need not be reminded 
of the value of breeding for some special purpose. 
What we need is not more horses so much as better 
ones. " A hint to the wise is sufficient." 

WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD CARRIAGE HORSES. 

This article, as written by Mr. D. H. Swiney, I con- 
sider, in most respects, worthy of attention, and will 
quote it, with a few changes. 

" The one class of horses that is absorbing more at- 
tention at present (probably because a great many who 
talk so much about them have no knowledge of what 
they really are,) is the carriage, or more commonly 
called coach horses. First, let us consider what is a 
carriage horse and what is a coach horse. We have 
no use for what is really a coach horse in this country, 
except for business purposes, viz: For express com- 
panies' use, and wholesale stores to use in their heavy 
wagons," omnibus and heavy delivery wagons of all kinds; 
or. on the farm. "Therefore, where is the magnificent 
price going to come in ? while a carriage horse is in 
every day use for pleasure, and the pleasure-loving 
people are bound to pay even an exorbitant price for 
a team of finely mated and really good carriage horses. 
Do not confound what I mean by a carriage horse 
with a fancy driver. They are different again, but 
nevertheless a first class carriage horse makes a pleas- 
ant and fine single driver, although a trifle larger than 
some people like. A coach horse is what we would call 
a toppy, stylish or rangey draft general purpose 
horse in this country, while a carriage horse is prob- 
ably as tall, but in other respects is more like a fancy 
driver or trotter, with all the action of a trotter, the 
finish of a Thoroughbred, with the style of a peacock, 



412 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

and with good horse sense. Because a horse is 16 
hands or over in height, and weighs from 1,200 to 
1,400 pounds, he is not a carriage horse. After study- 
ing these things over, and fully making up your mind 
what kind or class of horses you are aiming to breed, 
the next thing is how to breed them. 

" I will give you the benefit of my experience and 
observation in regard to the class of horses I have been 
writing about. In order to breed these horses my ex- 
perience and observation go far to confirm an opinion 
formed years ago, viz: That in order to breed the 
right kind of a horse for this purpose there must be 
an instinct to trot from one side or the other. My ex- 
perience only runs on the side of the sire. In making 
public stands with our trotting-bred stallions we 
have had mares of nearly every description and breed, 
from the Texas pony to the Thoroughbred, and having 
our own opinion of breeding carriage horses have used 
a great deal of persuasion to get owners of good, rangey 
young draft mares of 16 hands high and over, and 
weighing from 1,250 to 1,500 pounds, to breed to our 
horses, and I must say I have never seen anything in 
the way of breeding any kind of stock that gave more 
satisfactory results. The produce had the required 
size, the fine finish, and the almost perfect knee action 
and gracefulness that is a necessity in the carriage 
horse. This leads me to assert that probably the most 
assured way is to use a good rangey and stylish grade 
draft mare for a brood mare, and couple her with a 
fine, well-bred, trotting horse that has a strong dash 
of Thoroughbred blood. There comes to memory the 
most successful cross of this kind I ever knew of, a 
large, growthy, but low-headed three-year-old filly, 
which was bred all one season to a draft horse with 
the hopes of raising a grade draft stallion, but she 
would not breed, and in a fit of desperation her owner 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 413 

bred her to an undersized — at least in height — Ham- 
bletonian stallion that had for a dam a running-bred 
mare. She got with foal at a single service, and the 
result was the finest colt for carriage purposes I ever 
looked at. It had the agility of a kitten, the size of a 
light draft horse, with the smoothness and grace of a 
'fawn, with the most perfect knee action I ever saw." 

This cross would no doubt give satisfactory results, 
providing the grade draft mare had a good dash of hot 
blood in her, sufficient to give her stamina and knee 
action. But as the result of many years close obser- 
vation I have learned that to breed the average grade 
draft mare to trotting stallions will certainly end in 
disappointment. 

"My experience does not stop with this one instance 
nor the produce of this one stallion or family of trot- 
ting-bred horses wdien crossed in this way, and it 
works to a certainty instead of the exception. 

"The reader will no doubt say and think that I am 
a trotting-horse man. Well, I will say I am proud to 
be able to plead guilty to the charge, as it is the only 
thing we have in the horse line worth being proud of 
that has been bred and brought so near perfection in 
America. They will also say I am prejudiced toward 
Cleveland Bay and French Coach horses. I try to tell 
the truth, and I must say that, while I love a good 
horse, and there are a good many Cleveland Bays and 
French horses that are good, I do not like to see people 
swindled by fraudulent practices used by a great many 
dealers in stallions. There are a great many of these 
horses that are fraudulent in pedigree and frauds in- 
dividually. When they are shown to the halter they 
are fair to look at, but w T hen hitched up, what a gait 
for a carriage horse ! They have a low, scraping mo- 
tion in front, as though trjung to level the road, with 
as much grace of movement as a cow. There are also 



414 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

quite a number of these horses that are as represented 
and are a benefit to the country in which they stand, 
but will they, when crossed on our cold blooded mares, 
produce the desired result to any certainty? I think 
not, for the following reasons: The carriage horse is 
used at a trotting gait alone, and it is the most im- 
portant thing of all to have the knee action and the 
graceful stride only to be got by long inheritance, as 
bred in the American trotter. Have these horses got 
this to give their produce? Is it inbred to them? 
Have they got the warm blood necessary to lighten up 
our cold blooded mares ? I do not believe they have. 
The Cleveland bay horse I have no doubt would sire 
the finest carriage horses in the world if crossed on the 
trotting-bred mares of America. While on the other 
hand the trotting horses of America have the trot as 
an instinct. It is the first gait struck by them. They 
are a warm blooded horse also, and where they have 
the Thoroughbred blood close up it gives the fine 
finish, and royal look so sought after by the buyers of 
this class of horses." 

Size is more essential than the Thoroughbred cross. 
A standard trotting stallion possesses all the warm 
blood that is necessary. But he should be large and 
stylish, or a tried stallion that has proven himself the 
sire of large and stylish colts. 

INTRODUCTION OF STALLIONS. 

The fact that the cost of a first-class stallion 
amounts to a considerable sum, and often more than 
any one man has or cares to invest at one time, has 
prevented the introduction of such horses into neigh- 
borhoods where they might have a large patronage. 
This difficulty might be obviated by several farmers 
forming a company and purchasing a stallion. By so 
doing the cost would not fall so heavily upon one man, 
the cost of service might be made less to those inter- 



THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 415 

ested, and there would be more to work up a trade for 
him. An investment of this kind would certainly be 
safe, and would prove valuable to all concerned. 

When a good breeding stallion is introduced into a 
neighborhood, all the breeders in that vicinity should 
patronize him, as by so doing it puts a great many 
good horses in that immediate section, and offers quite 
an inducement to buyers to come there to buy the 
colts, for if a farmer raises a good colt, more than 
likely he has another one, or his neighbor has, that 
will mate it, and very frequently this enhances the 
value of both. Very often a farmer can make the 
mating of a pair of horses very profitable. It is 
always well to pay attention to the color in mating a 
team for a fancy consideration ; but size, disposition, 
strength and action are much more important when 
mating a team for general usefulness, and to make of 
it a pleasant team to drive and work. 

The idea of introducing improved breeds of horses 
into, a district should not be so much to supplant other 
breeds of known merit, as to supersede the scrubs and 
grades. Like everything else, the more competition 
of the right kind horse raising has, the better it is for 
it in the end. The man who owns a good stallion and 
tries to monopolize the business in his neighborhood 
by the exclusion of all other good stallions, certainly 
makes a grand mistake. The warfare should be 
against the class that is worth the least, and brings in 
the least money when placed upon the market. 

Mark Comstock says: "Whoever wishes to breed 
a fine colt must be willing to put himself to a certain 
amount of trouble and expense. There is an old say- 
ing that ' the gods never drop nuts already cracked 
into men's mouths;' * * * now the country is 
full of men who are ambitious to raise a five-hundred- 
dollar colt, but who are at the same time unwilling to 



416 THE BREEDING OF HORSES A SCIENCE. 

be at any considerable trouble or expense to do it. 
They wish the five-hundred-dollar colt but they wish 
to get it in such a way that it shall not cost them over 
fifty or seventy-five dollars. * * * It is needless 
for me to say that such an expectation is futile. * * 
It is not difficult for an intelligent breeder to raise a 
five-hundred-dollar colt; it is not extravagant for such 
a person to expect to raise a colt, which, at five years 
of age, shall command a thousand dollars for every 
year of his age; but it costs time, attention and some 
money to insure such a result. An ordinary dam will 
not produce such a colt. An ordinary stallion will not 
beget such an animal. * * * Stallions whose serv- 
ices can be obtained for ten dollars or less, and mares 
of low blood and negative characters, can never beget 
or conceive such a foal. It is only by the combination 
of good blood that such results are obtained. 




CHAPTER XX. 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 



Management of the Stallion — His Feed and Care — His Educa- 
tion—When Mares Should be Tried— The Number of Mares 
to be Served — Effect of Age of the Sire Upon His Get- 
Care of Brood Mares and Colts — Rules to be Observed — 
When to Castrate Colts — Feeding, Watering, and Grooming — 
Shoeing — Stables. 



MANAGEMENT OF THE STALLION. 

IN speaking of the various subjects as to the general 
management of the horse, I shall endeavor to 
make it as brief as possible, and only give such 
information as I think may be of benefit to the mass 
of readers of this work. 

Being an admirer of the horse, an extensive reader 
and close observer, with many years of experience as 
to their management, if the rules as herein given are 
closely observed, they will be of great benefit to the 
experienced as well as the inexperienced horsemen. 

First, I will speak of the management of the stal- 
lion, which, if understood, is very often neglected by 
the owner and groom. His stable should be a box- 
stall not less than twelve feet square, well lined inside, 
with a box and manger snugly fit in one corner for 
the feed. The doors should be strong and securely 
fastened when closed, and when open two bars should 
be put across to insure safety in case the horse is not 
tied. The ceiling should be high, and the ventilators 
well up so as to prevent any strong draft of air upon 



418 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

the horse. In a stall of this kind, the horse should 
have perfect freedom and not tied unless during the 
day. The stable should be cleaned once, or oftener, 
every day, and never allowed to become foul. This is 
something that should be observed in every stable, if 
you wish healthy horses. With a little teaching by 
holding a bucket for a horse to stale in, or putting 
some loose material under him, he can be learned to 
stale at regular intervals, and in one place; or by lead- 
ing him out onto a manure pile, in one corner of his 
stall, or any other convenient place. 

HIS FEED AND CARE. 

The stallion's food should be mainly good, sound 
oats — nothing is better; but this should be varied by 
an occasional ration of corn or barley; for horses, like 
men, are fond of variety in their food, and an oc- 
casional change of diet is condusive to health. Wheat 
bran is an invaluable adjunct to the grain ration, and 
can never be dispensed with. It is the cheapest, safest, 
and best of all regulators for the bowels, and it is 
especially rich in some of the most important ele- 
ments of nutrition. No specific directions as to the 
quantity of food can be given. Some horses will re- 
quire nearly twice as much as others; and the quantity 
that may be safely given will depend somewhat upon 
the amount of exercise in any given case. Some 
horsemen recommend feeding three, and others five 
times a day; but in either case, no more should ever 
be given than will be promptly eaten up clean. If 
any food should be left in the box, it should be at 
once removed, and the quantity at the next time of 
feeding should be reduced accordingly. As a rule, it 
will be safe to feed as much as the horse will eat with 
apparent relish; and then with plenty of exercise, he 
will not become overloaded with fat. The hay, as well 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 419 

as the grain that is fed, should be sound, and free 
from mould and dust. 

The amount of exercise to be given will vary some- 
what with the condition and habit of the horse. If he 
is thin in flesh, and it is thought best to fatten him 
up, the exercise should be lighter than it otherwise 
would be; and, on the other hand, if there is a ten- 
dency to become too fat, that may be corrected by in- 
creasing the amount of exercise that is given. The 
exercise given the horse should be such as will be ex- 
pected of his colts. Draft horses should not be led or 
driven faster than a walk in taking their exercise (but 
this should be at a rapid and vigorous gait), and they 
will require a much less distance than the roadster or 
running horse, three miles a day generally being suffi- 
cient, while the roadster and running horse may safely 
have five miles, which should in some cases be in- 
creased to eight and even ten, at a much more rapid 
gait than the draft horse. The young stallion should 
have regular exercise, daily, never violent. If of trot- 
ting blood, he may be speeded for short distances. 
These short trials will improve his health and stamina. 
Care should be taken to develop the true trotting 
action, because he is expected to impress this upon his 
progeny. Strong habits are transmissible, and the 
proper training of the trotting sire is all-important. 
The draft stallion needs also judicious daily walking 
exercise when young. The muscular development is 
most important, and indolence may render the stal- 
lion unfit for service. 

The point to be aimed at in the stable manage- 
ment of the stallion, is to so feed, groom, and exercise 
as to keep the horse to the very highest possible pitch 
of strength and vigor. The idea which prevails among 
many stable grooms that feeding this or that nostrum 
will increase the ability to get foals, is sheer nonsense. 



420 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

Anything that adds to the health, strength, and vigor 
of the horse will increase his virility or sexual power, 
simply because the sexual organs will partake of the 
general tone of the system; and on the contrary, 
whatever tends to impair the health and vigor of the 
general system, will have a deleterous effect upon the 
sexual organs. 

HIS EDUCATION. 

While the temper and disposition of the stallion 
are largely matters of inheritance, yet much depends 
upon his education. 

It is easier to spoil a horse than to cure him of bad 
habits when they are once formed. If there is any 
appearances of a disposition to be headstrong and un- 
ruly, he should never be led out except by a bridle 
that would enable the groom to exercise complete con- 
trol over him. 

It requires some skill and a good deal of patience 
to teach a stallion to behave himself properly when 
brought out to serve a mare. He should never be 
allowed to go on her with a rush ; but should be led up 
on the near side of the mare, to within about ten feet 
of her, and made to stand with his head towards the 
mare, about opposite her head, and, when he is ready, 
he should be led toward her and made to commence 
the mount when at her side, instead of going a rod or 
so, with his fore feet sawing the air, as is often the 
case. By observing these directions, there will be but 
little danger of injury to the stallion by a kick from 
the mare when he is mounting, especially if a good 
man is at her head to prevent her from wheeling 
toward the horse when he approaches. 

The danger to the horse is always the greatest when 
he is coming 'off, because many mares will kick then, 
that will stand perfectly still when he is mounting. 
To obviate this, it is always best for the groom who 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 421 

holds the horse to seize the mare by the bit with his 
left hand at this moment, and bring her head around 
toward him by a sudden jerk as the horse is coming 
off. But in most cases, indeed all cases where there is 
not absolute certainty that the mare will stand per- 
fectly quiet, the hobble should be used and then there 
can be no danger. 

To make a cheap and handy hobble that will 
answer every purpose, take a three-quarter inch rope 
fifteen feet long, form a slip loop at one end, put this 
around the mare's left hind pasturn, bring it forward 
between her front legs, up over her neck, and down 
under the rope again. Now draw her leg up well un- 
der her, tighten up the rope, and hold the end with 
the right hand to keep it from slipping, while you 
hold the mare by the bit with the left hand. When 
you want to fasten both legs, take an inch rope of suf- 
ficient length to go around the neck and fasten the 
ends together securely to form a collar piece, then take 
two three-quarter inch ropes of sufficient length to 
reach from the hind feet to the collar piece, and with 
at least two feet to spare. Form the slip loops on the 
ends, put them around both hind pasturns, bring the 
ropes forward between the front legs up through the 
collar piece, and back through again; then hold the 
ends to keep them from slipping. These are the best 
hobbles that can be found, for they are perfectly secure 
in the hands of a good person, and if the mare be- 
comes entangled she can soon be loosened by letting 
go of the ropes. 

WHEN THE MARE SHOULD BE TRIED. 

A point upon which there is great diversity of 
opinion is, when and how often a mare should be tried 
after she has been served by the stallion. A mare 
will almost invariably be " in season " on the eighth or 
ninth day after foaling, if she is healthy and has 



422 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

received no injury in giving berth to her foal; and in 
most cases it is best that she should receive the horse 
at that time, if it is desired that she should be kept 
for breeding purposes. We can remember when it 
was the almost universal custom to try mares every 
week after they had been served, but that is not the 
present practice of many experienced horsemen. The 
rule now that receives the most general sanction, is, 
not to try the mare again after service before the lapse 
of fourteen days, then the eighteenth or twenty-second 
day after service, and then, if she refuses the horse, 
she should be tried every week for some four weeks; 
and then if she does not come in, within that time, it 
is reasonably certain that she is in foal. She ought to 
be closely watched, however, for some weeks afterwards, 
because in some cases mares will pass over a period of 
one or two months, or even longer, without any ap- 
pearance of heat, and yet not be pregnant. Again 
there are other mares, and they are more numerous 
than one would suppose, that will appear to be in, 
and will freely receive the horse when they are in foal, 
and even up to almost the time of foaling. Such 
mares are always very annoying both to their owners 
and keepers of stallions. 

Mares that are uncertain breeders should be bred 
early in the spring, and carefully watched during the 
summer. If a mare is not with colt she will usually 
come in season again from 14, 18 or 22 days, and 
mares that receive the horse when taken to him but 
fail to catch after repeated trials, should be examined 
and operated upon. By examination, very often with 
mares of that kind, the mouth of the womb will be 
found closed, and unless it is opened they will not get 
in foal. This is contrary to some theoretical writings 
that I have read, but according to practical results 
that I have tried in my years of practice in the busi- 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 423 

ness. This is not a very hard operation to perform, 
and not a dangerous one. The hand should be greased 
and the examination made with some caution, and 
if the womb is found closed proceed to open it by in- 
serting first one, then two or more fingers until it has 
become so opened that the whole hand can be passed 
in and out of the womb with ease, when the horse 
should be allowed to serve her. Another practice used 
with mares of this kind is, not to let the horse try 
them before service, if they are known to be in season, 
but bring the horse out and allow him to mount at 
once; in this way she will be served before her amor- 
ous desires are aroused to so great an extent and thus 
will be more apt to become pregnant. Again, the 
practice of allowing two services only a few hours 
apart, or one in the evening and again in the morn- 
ing, or vice versa, often proves successful, especially 
with young mares of nervous disposition. There are 
two other practices used by some horsemen, and which 
I have practiced with good results, upon uncertain and 
annoying mares. One is, when the mare is known to 
be in season, give her a good bran mash with two 
ounces of sweet spirits of niter in it, in the evening, 
and early in the morning allow the horse to serve her. 
The other is by bleeding freely either from neck or 
mouth. Both practices are calculated to relax the 
system, and reduce their amorous desires. Any of 
the methods given here can be practiced by any prac- 
tical horseman, and will prove successful, and are 
valuable to those owning uncertain and annoying 
brood mares. For information upon bleeding horses 
see veterinary department. 

THE NUMBER OF MARES TO BE SERVED. 

The number of mares that a stallion may be per- 
mitted to serve during a season has long been a sub- 
ject of discussion among horse breeders. It is generally 



424 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

believed that the two-year-old stallion will be all the 
better off for not serving any mares at all; that a three- 
year-old should be limited to fifteen or twenty mares, 
and that a four-year-old should not go beyond twenty 
or thirty. It is very desirable, at the earliest possible 
stage in the life of a stallion, to ascertain what his 
qualities as a foal getter are likely to be, and with this 
object mainly in view I consider it wise to let the two- 
year-old serve a few choice mares, merely enough to 
show the character of his get. But these mares should 
be of the choicest kind, individually, or brood mares 
of noted character, for upon the stallion's first get 
depends his future value as a sire. Many valuable 
horses have had their reputations ruined by being 
allowed to serve a class of inferior mares when young. 
As a three-year-old, I should, with the same object in 
view, permit him to serve a larger number, which may 
thereafter be increased with each succeeding year until 
he is fully matured, when, if properly taken care of, 
with reference to food and exercise, eighty or one 
hundred mares may safely be served during the year, 
but this number in my opinion should never be 
exceeded. 

With the young stallion that is to serve but a few 
mares, I would prefer that these should all be served 
within the space of a few weeks — say two or three a 
week until his limit for the season has been reached — 
and then let him be withdrawn entirely from the 
breeding stud. He will soon forget all about it, will 
cease to fret after mares, and will have nothing to do 
but to grow until the next season. But when it comes 
to doing business with the stallion, he should rarely 
be permitted to serve more than twice a day; and even 
this should not be kept up for any great length of 
time. One a day during the season is better; but the 




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GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 427 

groom cannot always do just as his judgment dictates 
in this matter. 

Another thing is that people suppose that they can 
compensate for a great deal of service by an enormous 
quantity of stimulating food or drugs, and no exercise. 
This is an error. Good, sound food, given regularly in 
the right quantity, with some grass or green burdock 
— nature's own remedy — plenty of moderate exercise 
and good grooming is the kind of treatment he wants 
to prove successful. 

EFFECTS OF AGE UPON THE GET OF THE STALLION. 

Another point upon which there has been much 
discussion is the effect which age has upon the quality 
and fertility of a stallion; and according to the infor- 
mation gathered from experienced breeders, it seems 
that the age of the stallion has nothing to do with his 
quality or fertility. Hence the conclusion is that in 
the number of mares served, so in the matter of age, 
the reproductive powers of the stallion appear to be 
almost entirely a matter of condition, and that age has 
no effect whatever upon the percentage of foals from a 
given number of services. There has also been much 
speculation as to the comparative value of foals got by 
a stallion at different periods of life. The statistics of 
the trotting horse furnish us with abundant evidence 
to prove that here, also the age of the sire has but little 
or no effect. If any difference is observable, it is in 
favor of the more aged stallion, generally those in the 
teens. 

CARE OF BROOD MARES AND COLTS. 

The next question to be considered is, how shall 
the mares be cared for while being bred, or while in 
their pregnant state? This I consider of as much im- 
portance as any other point in the art of breeding, for 
the following reasons: 



428 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

First, upon the mare's condition when served de- 
pends largely as to whether she will become pregnant 
or not. For if in poor health when served, she is not 
so liable to become pregnant as if in good health 
and condition, but she should not be over fat. In the 
second place, it depends very much on their mental 
condition, when brought to the horse. If they have 
been rode or driven hard for a long distance, and are 
hot or excited, they are more liable to fail than if cool 
and quiet. Again, mares that have been used for a 
long time on the road, and kept on dry feed, are much 
harder to get with foal than those that have run out 
and received all kinds of food, and the same may be 
said of quite young mares, two and three years old, or 
quite aged mares, as they are always more annoying 
than those of middle age. Last, but not least, is the 
manner in which the mare is kept while in her preg- 
nant state, for upon her health and condition, while in 
foal, depends the growth and vigor of the colt. 

In speaking of breeding mares at two and three 
years of age, and as the question is often asked by 
new beginners, if mares can be bred without injury at 
so young an age as two years, I would say, it is only 
in certain cases, and not as a rule, that I consider it 
profitable to breed fillies at two years of age. First: 
they are very hard to get in foal and very annoying to 
both parties concerned. Second: unless the filly is 
very growthy and well developed at that age, there is 
danger of injury to her in foaling, especially if bred 
to a draft horse. Third: it impairs the growth to a 
more or less extent, and they will not develop into as 
smooth and large an animal as they would if not bred 
so young, which, of course, is a loss unless the owner 
expects to keep them for brood mares. Therefore, I 
would not advise the breeding of two-year-old fillies, 
unless they are large and growthy, or, where one has 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 429 

grade draft fillies, and he wants to breed them, in 
order to grade up; or as some contend, to make them 
more reliable breeders. The latter I consider an error, 
and contend that eight-tenths of all fillies, regardless 
of breed, should not be bred until the spring they are 
coming three years old. Then it is best to breed them, 
especially if they are intended for breeding purposes ; 
as it will more fully develop them and form the habits 
desired. 

RULES TO BE OBSERVED. 

First, be sure the mare is in good health when 
bred, and give her such care and feed afterward, as to 
keep her in good health, and a thriving condition. 
For this purpose there is nothing better than to turn 
her out in a good blue grass or timothy pasture, and 
let her run at leisure, or if in use, on the farm or road, 
with a reasonable amount of work, good feed, and care 
she will do just as well, and will thus pay her way. 
Her feed should consist of oats, mill-feed, and corn, 
and if possible a run at grass during the night, or 
when not in use, for by this means the digestive 
organs will be kept in a healthy condition. 

Second, avoid heavy salting and clover pasture, 
especially in wet weather, salt should be given twice 
or three times a week, and in small quantities, or 
what is better, keep rock salt where she can get at it 
when wanted, or use soda in place of salt — d table- 
spoonful at a time. Clover pasture if used at all 
should be avoided in wet weather, as it is the cause of 
a great many mares failing to get in foal, or losing 
their colts when once pregnant. Again, avoid hard 
pulling, riding, or driving. The last four months of 
pregnancy, she should be fed liberally with a bone 
and milk producing food — good oats, mill-feed, oil- 
cake, corn, and hay that is free form dust. It is not so 
much the quantity of food that requires attention, as 



430 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

the assurance that it is suitable. An abundance of 
inferior food may prove an injury, as well as too much 
good of the wrong kind. For instance clover hay, if 
fed in excess with other bulky food, or even alone, 
often causes mares to loose their colts, as it has a ten- 
dency to expand the stomach to such an extent as to 
cause them misery, and in straining to relieve them- 
selves of this fullness, they slink their colts. It is 
very prudent also with brood mares to see that the 
water supplied them is good and not too cold; running 
water is best, next is well water, but this should be 
drawn in the summer a short time before drinking, as 
it then will be relieved of the excessive coldness and 
become somewhat aired, which is best. As to the 
care of brood mares, they should be used regularly at 
slow, light work, or else be turned out in a lot away 
from other horses during the day, and if in the winter 
or early spring, they should be provided with a box- 
stall sufficiently large and well secured to prevent ac- 
cidents, to run in during nights and stormy days; but 
during warm weather there is no place better than a 
grass lot or field well fenced, and free from pools of 
water, or running streams, into which the colt may get 
and drown; for, it is a noticeable fact, that mares will 
often go to, or near water, when foaling. In a place 
of this kind, often several mares can be turned to- 
gether without any danger. Mares treated in this way, 
rarely k have any trouble at foaling time. But on ac- 
count of the colt being born as it is, many times, with 
the head covered with the placential envelope, which 
will smother the colt in a few moments, if not re- 
moved, safety demands that they be watched by some 
person of good judgment, and capable of rendering 
assistance if needed. A little attention at the proper 
time would save the lives of many valuable colts. A 
mare usually goes about eleven months, but the time 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 431 

varies considerably. By close attention, the time can 
be foretold quite accurately. A few days before foal- 
ing, there will be a perceptible shrinking of the 
muscles about the loin and back of the hips, the teats 
will fill out plump to the ends, and not infrequently 
there will be a discharge of milk from the udder. As 
soon as these symptoms occur, the mare should be 
closely watched, as the foal may then be expected at 
any time, whether it be more or less than the usual 
period of eleven months. 

THEIR CARE AFTER FOALING. 

After the colt is foaled, the mare should receive for 
a week or more, light, easy digested food, as mentioned 
before, and if possible, a run at grass; or if in early 
spring turned on rye or wheat for an hour or more at 
a time with a rest, free from work of any kind, for a 
week or two. Kentucky breeders turn their mares 
with early foal out on rye pasture to promote their flow 
of milk. This is a very good plan, and horse breeders 
in more backward states than Kentucky would be pro- 
portionately benefited by following the same method. 
And if practiced before foaling, it will help to make 
milk, and to put the system in a healthful condition 
to meet the wants of nature. If the mare is expected 
to breed regularly, as said before, she should be taken 
to the horse the eighth or ninth day after foaling, as 
then she is very apt to receive him and get in foal, but 
should be returned for trial every fourteen days during 
the season while sucking the colt. If not wanted for 
service she can be turned in pasture and let go for five 
or six months, when the colt should be weaned. 

When the grass is poor, or the mare is not a good 
suckler, she should receive such food and in such 
quantities as will cause her to furnish milk as the age 
and growth of the colt may demand it. The first few 
weeks of a colt's life is the most critical time of its 



432 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

existence. It is then that it needs careful attention. 
The mare should receive such attention in the way of 
care and food as will promote good health. Her 
food should be so regulated that her bowels will be 
kept in a healthy condition, for if they become im- 
paired, their condition is soon transmitted to the colt, 
which is the cause of the death of a great many; they 
should be closely watched in this respect, and if ailing, 
promptly treated according to the instructions as given 
upon this subject in the veterinary department. 

If a rapid growth in the colt is desired, it is import- 
ant that it should be full fed from birth, and in case 
the dam does not yield milk enough to give a strong 
and steady growth, this should be supplemented by 
cow's milk, and also by teaching it to eat oats and 
midlings. The colt can easily be taught to eat any 
kind of soft food, or sweet, warm skim milk, with oc- 
casionally a little oilmeal in it, which will produce just 
as good results. 

When it becomes necessary to wean such a foal, it 
is only required to increase the amount of feed. The 
object is to keep the colt growing steadily, without 
losing anything, at weaning time. 

WEANING TIME. 

The colt may be weaned at five or six months of 
age, which is best done by keeping it from the dam for 
a few hours at a time, increasing the length of time 
at each separation. It will in this way learn to depend 
upon itself, which will be better for the mare. 

No rules can be given for feeding, pasturing, stable- 
ing, grooming and handling colts. The breed, age, 
size and disposition of the colt, together with climate, 
locality and surrounding circumstances, and last but 
by no means least, the good practical common sense of 
the owner should govern in each case. A few sugges- 
tions may be made, not as a guide, but only as the 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 433 

result of some experience and observation, and a great 
deal of reading and thinking upon the subject of 
horse breeding. 

Study nature, and conform to her laws as nearly as 
possible; but still bear in mind that you are rearing 
one of the most domestic of all animals. One of the 
first demands of nature is freedom in the open air. 
No course of exercises can do the colt or horse so 
much good. He will give full play to every muscle in 
his body, and expand every air cell in his lungs. And 
not the least valuable part of this development is a 
good roll on mother earth. A horse that has been de- 
prived of this privilege for most of his life cannot be 
said to be well developed. Another demand of nature 
is friendship. The well bred colt wants to be your 
friend. Treat him kindly and he will be one. Kind- 
ness will demand comfortable quarters, with abund- 
ance of sound food, pure water, and free access to 
rock salt at all times. In case his appetite fails, 
smaller rations for a time, or a change of feed will 
likely be better than drugs; but if showing much 
illness he should receive prompt medical treatment. 

While we should aim at early maturity in all ani- 
mals, it is not natural for colts to attain an unusual 
size or speed at an early age; and those that are re- 
markable in this respect are not usually the best sires. 
The inference then is, we had best let the colts be colts, 
live like colts and act like colts, and nature will make 
horses of them at the right time. The horse colts, if 
not castrated, should be put in a grass lot by them- 
selves in due time to prevent accidents of any kind 
that may occur by leaving them run with brood mares 
or fillies. This should be attended to at the age of 
one and one-half years, or before, as a well-bred colt or 
an early foal often becomes troublesome during the 
second year. The breeder should study each colt very 



434 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

carefully, and if he finds in one any constitutional 
trait of character, weakness or tendency to disease, 
which would injure his usefulness on the track, road or 
farm, unquestionably it is best to stop right there 
and abandon the idea of keeping him for a stallion; for, 
although many of his colts may be apparently free 
from these constitutional defects, yet just in proportion 
as he is a prepotent sire will they crop out in the com- 
ing generations. Although the stallion may never be 
required to draw the heavy load, to endure the long 
journey upon the road, or strain every nerve to win a 
race, yet his value as a sire will depend upon the suc- 
cess of his colts to do such work. 

WHEN TO CASTRATE COLTS. 

The proper time to castrate colts is something upon 
which there is a great diversity of opinion ; while some 
breeders prefer castrating them quite young, at the age 
of one year, and some even at six months or younger, 
others claim that they should be allowed to partly 
mature first. But practical results has proven that 
the castration of colts should be governed more by 
their development than age. If a colt has made a rapid 
growth at one year of age, and is well developed in 
front as to the head, neck and body, or if he shows a 
deficiency in the hind quarters — being light, he had 
better be castrated than allowed to go a year or two 
longer, as early castration with a colt, as with any 
other animal, refines the fore part and develops the 
hind part. When the colt is to be kept for a stallion 
he should be kept the same as any other colt, allowed 
freedom in the open air at all times when the weather 
will permit, and not kept penned up like a lion. When 
two or three years of age he should be allowed to serve 
a few mares so as to test his breeding qualities, and 
and when off duty he should be used very much the 
same as any other horse, when it can be done with 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 435 

safety. The heavy horse should be used on the farm, 
but the light horse should be used at just such work as 
his colts will be expected to perform. His feed should 
be enough to keep him in good condition, but not too 
fat. Superfluous fat is very objectionable in a stallion 
of any breed, for often they are not sure breeders, and 
often, too, serious defects are hidden under super- 
abundance of flesh. 

It has already been suggested that no exercise is 
so good as freedom in a paddock, a pick of grass, a 
bite of earth, and a good out-door's roll, and an oppor- 
tunity to romp and play and be a colt again; there- 
fore every stallion owner should have a paddock, en- 
closed with a safe fence, and large enough for a good 
run. 

FEEDING, WATERING AND GROOMING HORSES. 

There is probably no other work on the farm which 
the farmer will find so much difficulty in delegating to 
others as to the care of the horses. 

The average work hand will over-feed with grain as 
well as with hay, but the watering of the horses and 
the cleaning of them, as well as the cleaning of the 
stables, and to the many little things looking to the 
health and good condition of the horses, are neglected 
with impunity. Unless the owner is convinced that 
his hand understands the management of horses bet- 
ter than he does himself, he should attend to the feed- 
ing of them, or at least see that they are properly fed, 
and that the horses, as well as the stables, are kept 
perfectly clean. 

A consideration of the anatomy of the horse's 
stomach affords useful knowledge regarding feeding 
and watering. When convenient, horses should be 
fed and watered at short rather than long intervals. 
This is an obvious indication, for the small size of the 
stomach precludes the horse from rapidly digesting a 



436 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

quantity of food sufficient to serve for a long period. 
In the treatment of horses, the nearer we follow their 
natural inclinations the better. This is more forcibly 
brought to mind when it is remembered that nature 
makes no mistakes. The horse should be fed in pro- 
portion to his size, and the labor he is required to 
perform. And no more should be fed than it will 
readily digest. It is not what is eaten, but what is 
digested, that furnishes the strength and muscle. A 
horse that is not working hard every day does not 
require the amount of feed that one does that is kept 
busy. High feeding, unless the animal is heavily 
used, is a positive injury. Therefore, it is better to 
under than to over-feed a horse. The first is only a 
temporary evil, but the last permanently injures the 
faithful animal. A fat horse is liable to indigestion, 
sun-stroke, cold, spasmodic or flatulent colic, and ever 
so many other ills, which a horse in condition is not 
only free from, but if properly fed, cleaned, and 
worked, is not liable to get. 

Night is the only time when hay should be fed 
heavy, especially to animals used for quick work. 
Even the slow plow team should have but little hay at 
morning and noon feeds, but give them a generous 
supply at the evening meal. By doing this your horse 
will keep in better spirits and condition, and be free 
from any tendency to " pot-belly," which horsemen so 
much dislike to see. 

No difference how hard a horse may be re- 
quired to work, it should not be fed too highly. When 
at hard work horses will stand this extra heavy feeding 
for a while, but the strain on the system will begin to 
tell, and the animals will give out and break down 
after a year or two's work, when they ought to last for 
a dozen. Horses that show any tendency to a chronic 
cough should not be fed on dry feed, as dry, dusty, and 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 437 

heating foods all exaggerate lung troubles. Their hay 
should be dampened, as no kind of hay is totally ex- 
empt from dust, and this trouble is best avoided by 
moistening all the hay which is allowed. Heaves in 
horses, frequent coughing, and difficulty of breathing, 
may be traced to dust in nearly all cases, and if the 
cutter is used as it should be in the summer, with the 
food well moistened and salted, the horses will keep 
in better condition. 

An all-corn diet from one year's end to another 
without a single change, is another thing that should 
not be practiced. They may stand it on an all-oats 
diet, but even this standard horse feed should be 
varied quite often. Care should be taken in placing 
new oats or corn before horses. The tendency is to 
relax the bowels, and sometimes the sudden change 
from old to new grain results quite seriously. As the 
old shrinks a good deal in drying, though nominally 
dearer, it is usually cheaper, as well as better feed, 
than the new. 

Old process oil cake meal, is very good for horses 
especially those that are grain fed. If fed one pint a 
a day with some bran it will go a long ways toward 
making their coats sleek, and in promoting health. 
The best and cheapest way to salt horses, is to keep a 
piece of rock salt in the trough. They are then liable 
to get all they want and when they want it, without 
wasting it. 

The more system we have in anything we do the 
better we generally do it, and the better is the result 
that follows. There is no work on the farm that can 
be systematized to better advantage than the feeding 
and treatment of the horses. 

VALUE OF GROOMING. 

To all appearances a horse may be in good health 
and in a thriving condition, with but little attention 



438 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

paid to him in the way of cleaning and rubbing, but it 
is evident that no horse can be in the best condition 
without a thorough grooming at least once a day. 
Don't think that you have properly groomed your 
horse when you have succeeded in scraping the dirt 
off so that your neighbor cannot see and laugh at it. 
Too many curry their horses merely because others 
might make fun of them if they did not make a pre- 
tension to keep them clean, and were they sure that 
no one would see them they would probably never use 
the comb or brush. They forget or never knew that 
while cleanliness is one of the objects of grooming, it 
is not the only or greatest one. The entire system of 
the horse is affected by the amount of rubbing it re- 
ceives and the condition in which its skin is kept. A 
beautiful coat of hair adds greatly to the value of a 
horse, and no one will doubt for a moment that groom- 
ing materially affects this part at least. It is the general 
custom with farmers to curry their horses but once a 
day — in the morning just before going to work. This 
is done generally because it is a custom, because father 
and, grandfather did so, without stopping to think 
whether it is the best time or not. It is a good time 
for such work, but when one grooming a day is given 
a horse, there undoubtedly is a better time for it. 
Every horse that works hard is deserving of being 
groomed and cleaned twice every day, morning and 
evening. If one time is omitted it should be in 
the morning. One way to decide this matter would be 
to put yourself in the place of one of your horses. 
Would you like to go over night with all the dirt and 
sweat that would accumulate on you during a hard 
day's work in the muddy or dusty roads or fields? 
When teams are cleaned up well in the evening, and 
well bedded in well-kept stables, the matter of groom- 
ing them the next morning is comparatively light. 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 439 

The benefit derived from more perfect rest more than 
compensates for all the trouble that it takes. Prevent- 
ing disease is another consideration worth thinking 
about. The number of cases of scratches would be 
few if the legs and feet of the horses were cleaned 
every evening. Not allowing the sweat and dirt to 
remain on the hair keeps the coats of the horses in a 
much better condition, which is not the least incentive 
for a good cleaning off after a day's work is done. 
There is nothing that a farmer, who has the proper 
regard for his horses, should take more delight in than 
in getting them in good shape to spend a comfortable 
night after they have worked hard for him all day. If 
you have never tried cleaning off the horses in the 
evening, inaugurate the plan at once and you will 
never regret it. Do not be afraid of killing your horse 
with cleanliness. Many a horse has been unfitted for 
work a month or two from a sore shoulder, caused by 
dirt under the collar that would have taken but a few 
minutes to remove. The feet of many horses have 
been completely ruined by the shoes becoming imbed- 
ded in them, that it would have taken less than a 
quarter of an hour to have removed. There are many 
little matters pertaining to the general comfort and 
welfare of horses on the farm that might be men- 
tioned, but to the thinking man they will present 
themselves, and by the successful horseman they will 
be attended to. 

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS. 

When the farmer must make every part of the 
farm and all connected with it be as profitable as pos- 
sible, the question of raising good colts or mules, in 
addition to the other kind of stock raised on the farm, 
is an important one. Especially in this time when 
mixed farming is carried on so extensively that often 
a number of teams must bfi kept so that the feeding of 



440 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

them furnishes a considerable part of the expenses 
of the farm. It will in many cases not merely reduce 
this item of expense, but often add rather to the profit 
of the farm, if a considerable per cent, of the teams 
are made up of good brood mares that will bring a 
good colt or mule every spring. With one or two 
teams, or more, as the work of the farm requires to do 
the principal part of the work, so that the brood mares 
can be used more or less, good colts can be raised at a 
very low expense, and especially when the extra ani- 
mals must be kept in order to properly cultivate the 
farm. This is more noticeable when the principal 
work of the farm is in raising stock -and grain to feed 
it. A considerable portion of the year there is little 
or nothing for the surplus teams to do. In fact four 
months of work in the spring and early summer is 
all that is necessary. Yet it does not really pay to buy 
and sell. It pays better to keep them and still better 
to have a portion of them mares and raise colts. 

To be the owner of the best horses in the country 
is a distinction of which any farmer should be proud 
but to do so they must not make a mistake at the 
start, thinking that it makes but little difference what 
kind of colts they raise, so they are colts. It does 
make a difference, and a very considerable difference, 
as they will find by experience either with colts or 
mules, and that difference will show itself from the 
start. They want good brood mares, healthy, of good, 
permanent disposition, and they should also be of good 
size. Then breed to a good sire. The difference be- 
tween the prices of service in a good sire and a poor 
one is very small in comparison with the differences 
that will be recovered in the animals when they are 
two or three years old. It costs no more to raise a colt 
that will grow into a large, handsome horse, one that 
will always command a good price, than one that is 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 441 

small, ill-shaped, and of low value. In the long run 
it costs less, and is much more satisfactory. 

Always select a stallion that is a standard of the 
breed he represents, and as perfect in every point as 
possible. The points to be most carefully observed are 
pedigree, size, strength, disposition, style and color. 
Do not forget that without size and bone blood is of 
little value. A horse must have something else besides 
a long string of ancestors to recommend him. He 
must possess individual merit. The color of the horse 
has much to do with its market value, and in breeding 
much prominence should be given to securing fashion- 
able color in the youngsters. Every farmer should 
raise his own horses, provided he has the requisite 
taste and qualities of a genuine horseman. Every 
stable ought to be provided with one or two young 
colts growing into future usefulness, or to replace the 
old team when worn out in the service on the farm. 
Heavy horses of good style and well muscled are 
always in good demand, and our farmers cannot raise 
too many such animals. Fine, rangy carriage horses, 
that have good action are also always in active de- 
mand, but they should always be well broken before 
being put on the market. There is not much demand 
for unbroken animals in any of our city markets, and 
if the animals are well trained drivers, etc., they will 
meet with much more ready sale at better figures. 
They should be gradually educated for whatever pur- 
pose they are adapted. It is too late in the history of 
horse breeding to try to breed and tram for heavy 
draft and speed in the same horse. A combination of 
qualities is necessary in the farm horse. He needs 
strength, but not so much as the dray horse should 
have; speed *is not an indifferent quality, because he 
must be taken from the plow and cart to the carriage, 
or light wagon for occasional journeys. But a horse 



442 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

of this kind seldom ever sells at as good a price as the 
heavy draft or carriage horse, which is the horse that 
a farmer can best afford to raise and will always be in 
the greatest demand. The best specimens of this class 
of horses are comparatively scarce, and are always 
needed by those who can afford to pay the best prices 
for them. It is not so much in the class of horses 
that are raised as it is in the kind and quality. The 
market for tip-top horses will never be over-stocked or 
even well supplied. 

If you have a good horse try and learn his worth 
and appreciate his value before some one has pur- 
chased him for half his value. There is a great deal 
of pleasure as well as profit in realizing what one's 
stock is worth. And when ready to sell, always try 
and find a place and purchaser that the horse will suit. 
When a good offer is made for a colt or horse — one 
that will justify the owner to accept, paying well for 
the breeding and handling of it — generally, it is best 
to accept it; as the time to sell is, when a purchaser 
can be found. 

HORSES OR MULES. 

For the regular work of the farm many prefer 
mules to horses, while perhaps a much larger number 
would not have them. Are the objections raised to 
them real or imaginary? The following list of ad- 
vantages and disadvantages of mules as compared with 
horses, given by a Texas Live Stock Journal, seems to 
place the mule on a much higher plane. 

ADVANTAGES : 

Mules are longer lived. 

Not sucject to half the diseases. 

Eat much coarser food. 

Do not require as much care. 

Are more sure footed. 

Not so liable to injury from storms. 

Do not get frightened as readily. 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 443 

Not so apt to run away- 
Running away does not spoil them. 
Will bear much heavier working. 
Require much less grain. 
Always ready when called upon. 
Respond to curry-comb and brush. 

DISADVANEAGES : 

Are not so stylish looking. 
Are not so fast on the road. 
More apt to break out of pastures. 
Not so handsome for the carriage. 
Have less musical voices. 

IMPROVING THE DISPOSITION OF HORSES. 

There never was a time in the history of this 
country when its horses were individually as meri- 
torious as they are now. I remember very distinctly, 
and so will any one else whose memory runs back 
over a score of years, that the very name of Thorough- 
bred seemed to be associated with a vicious disposi- 
tion, and that the man who attempted to occupy the 
perilous position of groom for a Thoroughbred stallion 
was one who would now make an ideal cow boy, and 
who had no fears of Satan himself. How many blood 
curdling stories have been told about the conquering, 
or attempts to conquer, such horses! We need not 
run back very far for examples of viciousness even 
among our fast trotting horses. Ten years ago the 
majority of the noted trotters were considered danger- 
ous. Dexter and Goldsmith Maid, were very crabbed 
in their natures, and Lady Thorn, was exceeding so, 
and it was not safe for any one but those who attend- 
ed to them to go near them. But it is now changed, as 
we now find our most docile and most pleasant disposi- 
tions among the fastest trotters. Maud S. is a perfect 
pet, and a child, who knows enough to keep out 
from under her feet, is as safe in her stall as a man. 
The same may be said of most of the fast and rich- 



444: GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

bred trotting stallions. There is no doubt but what a 
radical change has taken place, and now the question 
arises, What brought this change about? To me there 
is but one answer to this problem, and that is, that 
kindness begets kindness. This is true in the human 
family, and must hold good in regard to the treatment 
of horses. The better blood we find in a horse the 
more good horse-sense we find, and to me it is a sign 
of good sense for a horse to resent a punishment. 
Horsemen have learned that to give a horse a good 
disposition they must cultivate one themselves. There 
is no better way to give a horse a kind disposition than 
to treat him kindly. If there is one department in 
stock raising in which kindness and gentle treatment 
is well repaid, it is in the raising and handling of 
horses. " As the man is, so is the horse/' is an old 
proverb, and a very true one. Did you ever notice 
how much the horse is like his master? Take two 
young horses of the same breed, disposition and style, 
so near alike you cannot easily tell them apart, and 
place them in the hands of two men of different dis- 
positions and character, and in less than twelve months 
there will be as marked a difference in the horses as 
there is in the men. The old term " breaking" horses 
should be ignored and the word teaching or educating 
substituted in its stead. From the time we begin to 
handle a young horse he should be encouraged to look 
to us like a child for all his wants and pleasures. He 
should know us as a pleasant companion, rather than 
as an unmerciful master. 

Never allow boisterousness with the horses, as it is 
of all things the most calculated to spoil them, espe- 
cially if they are in the least excitable, for every time 
they do anything wrong knowingly, they will expect to 
be hallowed at or otherwise abused, and will frequently 
act very badly, and often do some injury. 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 445 

SHOEING HORSES. 

Upon this subject (the shoeing of the horse) vol- 
umes of information could be written; but the author 
will confine himself to such information as he thinks 
will be of value, and shall offer only a few hints which 
he hopes may prove beneficial. Horse-shoeing, like 
any other profession, requires study and practice. If 
it is worth doing at all it is worth doing well, and if 
the horse-shoer be bent upon improvement, his prac- 
tice will be worth more to him than all the written rules 
in the world. Let it be his aim to do what he does, 
well, and if he be suited to his profession, he will soon 
acquire that knowledge of horse-shoeing by reading 
and practice that will enable him to excel. Not all 
the bad or disordered feet of the horse lie with the 
horse-shber, but owners of horses and grooms are often 
responsible for many of the diseases which are found 
to lurk about the feet of the horses, which demands 
that they see that their horses are properly cared for, 
and when necessary to be shod, that it is properly 
done. 

The shoeing of the horse is a very necessary evil. 
In his natural state the horse possesses a foot answer- 
ing to all his wants, its growth being equal to wear; 
but as soon as he is engaged as servant of man, there 
are but few horses, when in full work, whose feet will 
stand the wear and tear of road work; hence the neces- 
sity of protecting them with a shield of iron. The 
comfort and value of the horse very much depends on 
good or bad shoeing, in the same way as a man walking 
in good or bad-fitting boots. If at ease the horse will 
show his natural energy and buoyancy of spirit, in 
contrast to the sordid and dejected appearance of one 
traveling in pain; the one after work feeds wuth appe- 
tite and rest, the other is dejected, eats and rests but 



446 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

little. These difficulties are discernable by those who 
are accustomed to horses and regard their welfare, 
whether he be master or groom, and any defect should 
at once be amended. 

In shoeing the horse, as well as the man, the shoe 
should fit the foot, instead of trying to change the 
formation of the foot to fit the shoe. 

One of the most important and least observed points 
in shoeing is the tread, that is, the proportion thrown 
on different parts of the shoe. On a well-balanced foot 
the w r ear of the shoe is tolerably even all 'round, except 
the toe, where there is naturally an increased friction 
and wear. The shoe should be evenly worn, and the 
farrier on taking off an old shoe should observe this 
and prepare the foot accordingly, for the chief thing to 
be accomplished is the manner in which a shoe is put 
on, rather than the pattern. In choosing a shoe the 
points to be aimed at are lightness and narrowness of 
iron, consistent with the class of horse and work; it 
interferes less with the natural structure of the foot, 
and gives a firmer foothold with less slip. A plain, 
broad shoe without grooves is the strongest (but allows 
free slip) and most suitable for road use in summer, or 
for farm work and horses of heavy step. Calks at 
both toe and heel give the strongest possible foothold 
for heavy draft work. The hind shoes are best with 
the heels alike on both sides, whether plain or wedge- 
shaped calks are used; it is not a good practice to 
have a square calk on the outside and a wedge-shaped 
one on the inside, as it must inevitably tend to twist 
the toes outward after reaching the ground. When 
the work is such that calks can be dispensed with, it 
should be done, as a shoe with even thickness from toe 
to heel, free of calks, is much better. 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 447 

PARING THE FEET. 

Before fitting the shoe, the foot should be dressed 
properly, and made perfectly level. It can best be 
made level with a rasp, when the shoe may be fitted 
to the foot. This should be neatly done, so it has an 
even bearing upon the foot. The heels of the shoe 
should come close to the frog, but not so close as to 
touch it or to interfere with its expansion. The bars 
of the foot should not be cut out with a knife or the 
frog interfered with, but let nature do her work with 
these. 

The art of shoeing consists of fixing a shoe on the 
foot in such a manner as to preserve the natural tread 
whereby the freedom and elacity of action will not be 
impeded. This art is accomplished or not according 
to the skill with which the shoe is put on, more than 
to any particular style of shoe used, whether it be 
plain or with calks. The suitability of either depends 
on the strength of the foot, the nature of roads, and 
the kind of work required of the horse. And also 
with regard to the frog bearing on the ground. In a 
strong foot, with strong, healthy frog, it may be 
allowed; but if the frog be soft or spongy it would be 
injurious, and lead to lameness. Under no circum- 
stances should the frog be prominent beyond the sur- 
face of the shoe. The frog is constructed of a very 
elastic material. It forms an elastic pad, diminishing 
concussion and allowing a limited expansion, giving 
some freedom to the action of the joints situated in 
the foot. Maintaining these parts of the insensitive 
foot in a healthy condition is of the utmost import- 
ance to insure a long life of usefulness. 

Carelessness about horses feet produces much 
trouble. Loose nails or fragments of them left in the 
hoof work their way into the interior and produce in- 
flamation which spreads up to the coronet or elsewhere 



448 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

and forms a fistula. This is very difficult to cure, be- 
cause the horse's foot is encased in a tight box from 
which the pus and diseased matter cannot escape. 
Care to prevent it should be constant. The feet should 
be closely looked after, and kept properly shod or 
trimmed, shoes should not to be allowed to re- 
main on too long, and when removed the clinches of 
the nails should be well cut, and see that they are all 
removed and not allowed to remain in the foot to 
cause an injury. 

SPREADING THE FOOT. 

If it be desired to spread the foot at the heel, the 
foot surface of the shoe may be so beveled from the 
quarters back, that the outside of the foot surface will 
be just a little the lowest, this done, as the horse steps 
his weight upon the shoe, the heels will be pressed 
outward; the shoe thus beveled serves as a wedge to 
press the heels outward, and as this pressing out will 
be gradual, there will be no danger of injury to the 
foot; care should be taken that this bevel, is not too 
great, if the outside of the shoe be the sixteenth part 
of an inch lowest, it will be sufficient; if the outward 
pressure be too great the foot will be weakened and in- 
jured. During the process of spreading the foot in 
this manner, let the foot be kept moist, by a run in 
damp pastures, or by keeping the feet wrapped with 
rags, and wet with salt water; or hoof ointment may 
be used with advantage. (See prescriptions.) 

INTERFERING OR CUTTING. 

Horse-shoers generally have a plan for preventing 
horses from interfering. A very successful plan for 
this is to form a shoe one thickness, but have the in- 
side half of the shoe from heel to toe, the widest. Se/ 
the shoe close and use as few nails upon the inside 
quarter as may be necessary; use nails at the toe, but 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 449 

they should be left out at the quarter. The shoe 
should then be made round and perfectly smooth upon 
the inside; and see that the foot, after being shod, sets 
perfectly level. If this be done the horse will not be 
so likely to strike, as the shoe will not come so near 
the ankle when the horse steps, and will naturally 
cause the foot to swing out when in motion. 

STRIKING THE KNEES. 

To prevent a horse from striking his knees, shoe 
light (the same as for interfering,) make the inside of 
the shoe, and foot, smooth, rounding the shoe and 
nailing it as described for interfering; make the shoe 
thin, and use no calks, unless the condition of the 
roads make it absolutely necessary. If the horse that 
hits his knees must be driven, it will be well to use 
knee pads, until the knees are well. The knees some- 
times become thickened from hitting; for the removal 
of such thickness, see prescriptions. With road horses 
great care should be taken that the shoes fit nicely. 
The nails should be neatly clenched and lightly rasped. 

SHOEING THE HINDER FEET, FORGING. 

The hind feet of all horses may be shod with low 
calks, if it be desired, and this practice is growing in 
favor with horsemen. The hinder shoes need not be 
so wide in the web as the forward shoes, yet it is well 
that the shoe be strong at the toe. If the horse 
" forges" — hits his hinder shoes against the forward 
ones — thus making an unpleasant noise, use a smooth, 
concave shoe in front. See that the heads of the nails 
do not project beyond the shoe. Use a light shoe be- 
hind and set it well back. Thus shod a horse will 
seldom ever forge or cut his quarters in road use. 
With some horses the front shoes must be very short, 
while with others thev must ox 'end well back. When 



450 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

shod short, and they still strike, they should be shod 
longer. 

SHOEING COLTS. 

Colts should always be shod light at first, and if 
the roads are such as to permit it, with tips. That is 
a plain shoe running from the toe to the front part of 
the heel, and thicker and wider at the toe than the heel. 
Such a shoe comes nearer nature and is free from calks 
which may cause the colt to stumble or cut itself. 
Heavy shoes upon a colt and especially if they have 
calks, must feel cumbersome and cause a difference in 
its action, and make it leg-weary in traveling, caus- 
ing it to forge, cut its quarters, etc., while if it be shod 
as directed, there will be little or no difference in its 
motion. All colts when first shod should be driven 
with care. If it be desirable, the second set of shoes 
may be heavier than the first, but the shoes should be 
made concave upon the foot surface, so that the shoe 
may rest only upon the crust of the foot; then shoe 
light, and leave all the inside nails out, except the one 
just at the toe. This gives the foot a chance to ex- 
pand and grow. Never use calks upon colts, particu- 
larly upon the forward feet if it can be avoided. 

BAR SHOES. 

Bar shoes may be advantagiously used for quarter 
cracks or weak quarters, or for horses that have corns 
in their feet, which can generally be cured by the use 
of such shoes, and by keeping the feet in a moist and 
growing condition. They should be so made that they 
will bear evenly upon the crust of the foot without 
interfering with the growth of the frog. With horses 
that have corns in their feet, the shoe should be so 
formed and put on that its bearing may not rest too 
much on that part of the foot immediately over the 
seat of the corn. The corns, if lightly paired and daily 
oiled with the foot oil, can easily be cured. Corns are 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 451 

generally found in feet that are more or less con- 
tracted. Take measures to spread the foot, and when 
such efforts have been attended with success the corns 
will disappear. Digging deep after corns is not ap- 
proved of, and by proper shoeing, or allowing the 
horse to go barefooted is much better. 

COLTS OR HORSES FROM GRASS. 

If a colt or horse be taken from a dry pasture, and 
with sound feet he may be shod at once, so far as the 
feet are concerned; but a colt should have its first 
training lessons in the stable, and not at the shoeing 
forge, and when quiet to handle he may be shod. If 
a horse or colt be taken from wet, marshy pastures, 
with soft and expanded feet, it would be advisable for 
him to stand in a dry shed or stable on the clean 
ground, for a week, otherwise as the foot contracts by 
drying the shoe will become loose, or the foot strained 
by the nails and shoe. Another point to be observed 
is, that a horse fresh from grass ought not to be shod 
too heavy . nor tight, nor more than three-fourths of 
the nails used, so that the foot may be permitted to 
contract in a natural manner, whatever method may 
afterwards be adopted. 

STPOPPING THE FEET. 

Stopping or stuffing consists of filling the under or 
ground surface of the foot within the shoe with cow- 
dung, clay, or some mixture of a soft and plastic 
nature. The popular reason for this practice is said to 
be that it keeps the feet moist and cool, like they 
would be in their natural element in the pastures, and 
this erroneous idea is persisted in by some intelligent 
minds, as well as by the grooms and horsey men. It is 
an error, first, because a horse with soft feet, whether 
taken from the pasture or softened by the stopping ap- 
plied, is unfit to travel over rough or newly-stoned 



452 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

roads without risk of bruising the sole or frog, and 
thereby causing lameness; secondly, by applying a 
stopping or plaster, an extra heat is produced in the 
part in same way, but to a less extent, as if applied to 
the skin, and when removed the opposite or cooling 
effect follows, thus causing an irregular temperature; 
thirdly, the greatest evil is that if cow-dung is used, it 
being in a state of decay, generates ammonia, which 
destroys the glutinous matter which binds together the 
horn fibres, leaving the latter exposed and weakened 
and when dry again the surface of horn shrivels up very 
hard. For example, take two pieces of horn of equal 
size, put one in cow-dung and the other on a cool floor 
for forty-eight hours; the first will become soft, whilst 
the other is little altered. Now, put the two pieces in 
a dry, warm place, similar to the w r armth of the foot; 
the first will become hard, dry, and brittle, whilst the 
latter remains but little affected. The contrast will be 
greater or less, according to the condition of the dung 
or the length of time so treated. The same effect 
would be produced on leather or other fibrous textures. 
The best stable treatment is simply cleanliness and an 
occasional dressing with oil; in fact, treat the feet pre- 
cisely as you would treat your harness. See prescrip- 
tion for this purpose. 

HORSES WITHOUT SHOES. 

The advice allowing horses to go barefooted during 
work on the farm is of paramount importance. It 
will do more good toward curing contracted feet than 
all other remedies. It will prevent contraction to a 
certain extent. Many severe cases of contraction by 
this simple and quite inexpensive process can be per- 
manently cured. 

Horses should be allowed a time to expand the 
hoof, and recuperate by going barefooted. I mean all 
and every kind of horse, no matter how or where 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 453 

worked, if he can be spared for a few days from where 
the work demands shoes. They should go at least 
two months a year unshod. 

In most kinds of work a horse can go barefoot 
without injury, and with certain benefit. The edges 
of the hoof should be rounded. This will prevent 
breaking to a certain extent of the outer edges of the 
hoof. Of all faults in a horse's foot, a stubby foot is 
the worst. This is nearly always caused by a high 
heel, consequent upon non-wearing down of the heel 
from its protection by the iron shoe, and then the 
paring of the toe, and neglect of paring the heel. 
Let any person catch a colt or horse of any age, which 
runs barefoot, stand him on a smooth stone, iron, or 
anything smooth and unyielding, and he will find the 
hair of the heels of such animals will touch the floor — 
or nearly so. If this is natural (and it surely is), what 
are we to say about a stubby hoof, the heart of whose 
heel is from one to three inches above the floor? 
What are we to expect when the sensible laminae of a 
foot is so firmly held in such a vice? What else can 
we expect but contraction and a crippled horse? 

The hoof itself is a horny structure covering the 
highly vascular and sensitive foot. It is formed simi- 
lar to hair, consisting of fine tubes agglutinated to- 
gether by a strong plastic material. In sound hoofs 
these tubes render the hoof slightly porous in the line 
of its growth, by which moisture is supplied to main- 
tain its toughness throughout. The lower ends, by 
concussion and exposure, become hardened, the tubes 
contract and close, preventing the escape of natural 
and ingress of external moisture. Therefore any one 
can see how important it is that the horse should go 
barefooted at least part of the year, in order to allow 
nature to restore and preserve the foot. This of course 



454 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

can be done by good care, and proper shoeing, but it 
demands close attention. 

Plank floors are a fruitful source of bad feet. The 
feet require moisture, and if they be denied that moist- 
ure, they soon become diseased. Horses that are 
forced to stand upon dry, hard, plank floors, should 
have particular attention paid to their feet. Let the 
feet be washed often, and walk the horses in the morn- 
ing dew, and do not allow their feet to become dry and 
hard; see that they are shod sufficiently often to pro- 
tect the feet and in such a manner as to preserve a cor- 
rect bearing of the weight of the body. 

STABLES FOR HORSES 

As to the stable for horses, almost every one who 
builds one has his own idea of the manner in which it 
should be built, but it has sometimes seemed to the 
author that those who build them, build them with a 
view to their own convenience rather than with the 
idea that the comfort of the animals which are com- 
pelled to occupy them should be taken into considera- 
tion. Light and ventilation are two of the most im- 
portant items in the construction of stables for horses, 
and is too often lost sight of. Without proper ventila- 
tion and light, the health of animals kept in stables is 
sure to suffer in a greater or less degree. It matters 
but little how the necessary ventilation be obtained, 
provided it be obtained in some way. But draughts 
of air or wind, which may directly strike the animal, 
should be avoided, because a cold is almost a certain 
result if a horse be allowed to stand, even for a short 
time, where a draught of cool wind may come upon 
him. This is true even in the hottest days, and more 
particularly if the horse has just returned from his 
exercise, and is sweating profusely. The seeds of infla- 
mation of the lungs or air passages are frequently 
germinated in this way The windows and doors for 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 455 

ventilating purposes should therefore be placed high 
up. Some have windows placed just in front of each 
horse in the stables, having them so arranged that they 
can be opened or shut at pleasure, and were it not for 
the fact that frequently one forgets to close these win- 
dows, when the atmosphere has suddenly changed 
from hot to cold, such windows might be a very good 
thing, but as horses often take severe colds from hav- 
ing these windows open upon them during sudden 
changes of weather, we think that it would be better 
that the windows were placed higher up, at least so 
high as would prevent the possibility of the winds 
blowing immediately upon the horse's face and chest; 
or placed . behind them. Let in all the air you please 
overhead, but guard against draughts of air from be- 
low. Stable doors should be strong, well fastened and 
not less than four feet in width, or eight in height, and 
no sill to step over; or if there is a sill at the door, it 
should be very low, and the edges well rounded off, for 
many a valuable horse has been ruined by high and 
sharp-edged sills at the door. 

All well-regulated stables have many conveniences 
to be found about them. Tight cupboards for the har- 
ness; neat chests for medicines or liniments; boxes for 
brushes, combs, etc.; low tubs for bathing the horses' 
feet; good brooms for sweeping the floors and stalls, 
and other accommodations which naturally suggest 
themselves, can be had at but little troubls or expense, 
and no stable should be considered complete without 
them. The saving to the harness will pay for all that 
it costs to provide a means to prevent the dampness 
and ammonia arising from the manure coming in con- 
tact with them, and every other convenience will be 
found to be worth all or more than it costs, besides it 
gives the stable a neat and well-regulated appearance. 



456 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

If farmers could only realize the benefit derived 
from these conveniences and from whitewashing the 
walls of their stables, many of the inconvenient and 
miserable-looking old dungeons in which the horses 
that have to work hard are kept, would be transformed 
into pleasant apartments. Keeping the stables in 
first-class order should be the most pleasant task of 
those who have the care of horses, and when the walls, 
stalls, and, when necessary, the ceilings have once 
received a good coat of whitewash the matter of keep- 
ing everything neat and clean is much easier. No 
barn can be considered complete without a good, tight- 
fitting ceiling. This is necessary for two reasons. 
First, it prevents the dirt and chaff from the loft above 
from falling on the horses, and, second, it prevents the 
ammonia from arising from the manure and urine de- 
posited on the floor. The whitewash also has a double 
purpose, that of beautifying the stable and purifying 
the air. The cost is but a trifle, and no excuse need 
be offered on that score. The time it takes to put it on 
will never be missed, as it can be done at odd hours, 
or during a wet day. A well ventilated, well kept, 
clean stable has not half the attraction for flies and 
other vermin that a filthy one has, and for this reason, 
if for no other, it should be done. A farmer who will 
try thoroughly ventilating and whitewashing his stables 
both inside and out, will find it pays well for the 
trouble and expense required to do it, and will seldom 
abandon the method after seeing the results. 

Stables should be built upon dry and airy ground, 
and the front yard kept dry and. clean, so that when 
horses are taken to and from them they will have 
dry ground to walk over. Nothing is more injurious 
to the feet and legs of horses than to compel them 
to walk through a pool of mud, slush, or a mixture of 
manure, to their stalls, where they must stand, per- 



GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 457 

haps, over night, with their legs and feet saturated 
with filth. The horse delights in cleanliness. Let 
there be a clean, unobstructed way of getting in and 
out of the stables. Further, cleanliness is essential to 
the horses' health, and stables should always be so 
kept; all filthy litter should be removed from them at 
least once every day, for if swept clean, it will add 
much to the neat and orderly appearance of the stables. 
Horses kept in clean stables, at least look more com- 
fortable, and will certainly be more healthy. It re- 
quires but little time each day to nicely arrange a 
stable, and the satisfaction will pay one»if there were 
no other reasons for keeping them clean. 

A GROUND FLOOR IS BEST. 

A common practice now days, (and a very bad one) 
is putting wooden or cement floors in horse stables. 
Horses closely confined in such stables sooner or later 
become more or less impaired in their feet, and are 
often bothered with capped hocks or knees, by sleeping 
upon such floors. Forcing horses to stand in stables 
where the floors are raised five or six inches higher in 
front than behind, keeps the muscles upon constant 
strain, and cannot fail of being injurious if such a 
practice be persisted in. When practicable such floors 
should be avoided, and good clay used in their place. 
These raised high enough to keep out the wet, and well 
underdrained to prevent dampness, is by far the best 
floor if kept clean, and it is warmer in the winter, and 
cooler in the summer, and will also prevent the horses' 
feet from drying out and becoming diseased. 

TRAINING DEPARTMENT. 

Attached to every breeding establishment should 
be a place suitable for training purposes. This should 
consist of a yard, a shed, or what is better, a large box 
stall, twelve by sixteen feet is small enough; the floor 
should be ground and should be kept well littered with 



458 GENERAL INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 

tan bark, sawdust, or some other soft material. This 
place should be so arranged that it may be closed up 
tight, for; if you wish to train your young horse or colt 
well, you should be alone with him at first. The place 
should be so made that everything which will be likely 
to injure the horse may be removed; let the ground be 
smooth and level, also the sides of the apartment 
be smooth, and no projections, nails, or anything that 
might scratch or hurt the horse. Into a place of this 
kind, one can take a colt, or young horse, and no mat- 
ter how wild he may be, a few hours of careful and 
judicious reasoning will make him as submissive as a 
lamb. Box stalls for horses where they may walk 
about at their leisure, are growing in favor with 
horsemen; and it does seem more natural to allow 
a horse the liberty of a box stall than to have 
him tied up all the time. Such stalls should be at 
least twelve feet square. Every farmer should have 
attached to his stables at least one such stall, where he 
may put his brood mare, a colt, or in summer when 
his other horses are at pasture, he may allow his 
driving horse, or his saddle horse, the use of it. The 
farmer or breeder will find such a stall an exceedingly 
useful appendage. Let all stables be constructed with 
a view to the comfort and well being of animals, and 
such conveniences maybe added as will suit the fancy. 
High racks are another nuisance. Horses are not 
formed like giraffs, to brouse from over hanging trees, 
but from a lower posture; hence, if they are fed from 
high racks for several months they are liable to become 
swayed in the back, and are often unable to graze 
without kneeling when first turned upon grass. High 
racks also place the eyes in jeopardy from hay seed 
and dust falling into them, producing inflammation. 
The best hay rack is the floor or stall. The best grain 
box, a portable one of iron or wood. 



GENERAI INFORMATION UPON THE HORSE. 459 

There are so many good ways of making mangers 
that the writer does not deem it necessary to lay down 
any particular rule. Those who build should be gov- 
erned by their own tastes, always keeping in view the 
comfort and health of their animals, as well as their 
own convenience. I hope what has been said on this 
subject shall be the means of inducing even a few of 
such as may read this book to better arrange and keep 
their stables, when the desire of the writer will be 
gained 




CHAPTER XXI. 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 



Education of the Horse— Things to Remember — Careful Train- 
ing of Horses— Timid Horses — Ounce Packages of Preventi- 
tives— How to Halter and Educate the Colts— To Bit and 
Guide Them — How to Learn Them to Stop and Stand— To 
Mount the Colt or Unsafe Horse — Working the Colt in 
Shafts -Kickers and Runaways— Training the Horses Mouth- 
Wild and Unsteady Horses — How to Drive Them — Teach 
Them to Walk — Speeding Them — Vicious and Tricky Horses^ 
Balky Horses. 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

PON the education of horses depends their value, 
therefore it is necessary that they should be 
thoroughly and properly educated. As the 
teachings of former works have become obsolete in 
many important features, and superseded by new and 
more effectual means of control, in educating and train- 
ing, and by a decided advancement relative to care and 
treatment, I will, in this work, give my experience as 
gathered by many years of labor and observations. 
Not that the principles of educating the horse have 
been materially changed, or that my methods are en- 
tirely new, but greatly improved upon and simplified. 
The demand for more light upon these subjects 
was never greater or more imperative than to-day. 
Horses have increased in value because men of wealth, 
leisure, and cultivated minds and tastes have recog- 
nized the fact that the horses bred by them can be im- 



462 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

proved and rendered more valuable by the study of 
everything appertaining to their breeding, rearing and 
care. And now, in useing these methods of operating, 
I would suggest that they be given a thorough trial, 
according to instructions; as I have endeavored to 
make every principle understood, and claim the meth- 
ods are valuable in their practical results. I do not 
insist that these methods are the only ones, but that I 
have always found them successful. The person who 
undertakes the calling of educating the horse should 
first learn to pay attention to the most important fac- 
tor of a true horseman, namely, " self government." 
Prof. York says: " The greatest study of mankind 
is man, and the greatest triumph is to obtain the 
mastery over ourselves. A hasty temper has perma- 
nently injured or absolutely ruined thousands of horses. 
Man is superior to the horse only so far as he exercises 
that superiority of intelligence, and the moment he 
allows his passions to have full sway, his superiority 
ceases. Whenever the operator becomes heated and 
nervous, he should at once rest from his labors; for, 
when he is cool and not excited, he will accomplish 
more in ten minutes than he can in an hour of 
frenzied attempts at control. We should strive from 
our first approach to obtain confidence of our subject, 
which once gained and never abused, will insure 
success. 

WE SHOULD REMEMBER THIS. 

You can teach the horse only through two senses; 
sight and feeling, and he can learn but one thing at a 
time. Therefore teach that one act alone. Make sure 
by repetition that he understands you, and be careful 
that you remember how you taught him. It is the act 
in man that causes the act in the horse, and any 
change made by you in the manner of conveying to 
him a knowledge of your will, is sure to confuse, and 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 463 

he may fail to conform to your wishes for want of a 
conception of what you really mean, and not from a 
disposition to do wrong or rather not to do what you 
desire of him. Show your horse exactly what you 
want him to do, and endeavor to use the patience and 
reason in teaching and controling him you would at 
least believe necessary for yourself to understand if 
placed in like circumstances Make your horse a 
friend by kindness and good treatment. ''Be a kind 
master and not a tyrant." 

CAREFUL TRAINING OF HORSES. 

The education of the colt should be commenced at 
an early age and thoroughly followed until it is old 
enough for use. One of the most serious mistakes 
that farmers make in training their young horses is in 
not doing their work thoroughly. When once under- 
taken the work should be complete. To stop and start 
at certain words, to turn to the right or left at other 
words, or signals, should not be enough, although 
many men who have the constant handling of horses 
are entirely satisfied with these results. The fact that 
horses are capable of learning these rudiments in 
training with as little teaching as they do only proves 
that they are capable of further training which may 
be carried to a considerable degree with profit as well 
as pleasure. It is not necessary to occupy the entire 
day with a colt, or give it a lesson every day, at all 
times, but an occasional lesson at not too long inter- 
vals, will go a long ways toward his education. The 
colt should be trained and developed to make him as 
nearly perfect in his class as possible. The heavy draft 
horse should be true and steady, and move off with 
his load at a square, vigorous walk. The trotter, 
pacer or runner, should have a free, honest gait, which 
is more valuable than a record, gained perhaps at too 
g r eat a cost to his physical powers, or by being forced 



464 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

past an honest gait. One of the most important les- 
sons now is for him to learn that he is becoming a 
horse, and that he should act like a good, sensible one 
and not always be getting himself and master into 
trouble. And, above all, do not permit ignorant or 
brutal grooms to crush out that noble characteristic of 
every good horse, which Josh Billings calls " good 
horse sense." 

Horses with high metal are more easily educated 
than those of less or dull spirits, and are more sus- 
ceptable to ill training, consequently may be good or 
bad according to the training they receive. If a colt 
is never allowed to get an advantage it will never 
know that it possesses a power that man cannot con- 
trol; and if made familiar with strange objects it will 
not be skittish and nervous. A gun may be fired from 
the back of a horse, an umbrella held over his head, a 
buffalo robe thrown over his neck, a railway engine 
pass close by, his heels bumped with sticks, and the 
animal take it all as a natural condition of things, if 
only taught by careful management that he will not 
be injured thereby. There is a great need of improve- 
ment in the management of this noble animal among 
the mass of people who handle them — less beating and 
more education wanted. 

TIMID HORSES. 

Timidity in a horse is a fault which usually can be 
cured, only by a course of kind and patient treatment. 
Rough usage will never accomplish that end, but is 
only calculated to make trouble more deep-seated. If 
he scares at any object, speak to him kindly and let 
him stop and look at it; give him a few gentle strokes 
on the neck with your hand, speak kindly to him all 
the time, and gently urge him toward the object he 
scared at; be careful not to urge him too hard at first; 
above all do not whip him; give him time to see that 



EDUCATION OF HOUSES. 465 

he is not going to be hurt; when you can do so let him 
smell the object, provided it is not some offensive car- 
cass, and he will not likely scare at it again. When 
this has been done several times, he will have gained 
confidence in you and in himself. The timidity will 
soon wear off and your horse will be cured. 

Avoid teaching bad habits for the reason that it 
costs more to correct one, and form a new one in its 
place, than it does to teach ten good ones. So in the 
care and treatment of the horse that is sound and 
healthy, it is much less expensive to provide against 
accidents and disease, than to furnish medicines and 
treatment for repairing injuries or curing diseases. 

I will invite your attention to some ounce pack- 
ages of preventives as given by Prof. York and others: 
To avoid accidents, educate your colts, and aged horses 
as well, very thoroughly. Make your control absolute, 
and thus avoid many serious accidents, as they are 
termed, but are often the result of negligence, or, to be 
plain, laziness. All the theory in the wide world, 
without practical illustration thereof, is of no avail. 
Do not sit down and wish this or that done. Arise 
and do that which is needful, thereby increasing the 
value of your horse and adding to the safety of your- 
self and others. Take time to examine your harness 
and vehicle and keep them in perfect order. Many a 
life has been sacrificed and much property destroyed 
through negligence of duty. Adjust your harness 
carefully to the horse, and avoid galls, soreness, and 
subsequent atrophy of muscles swelling. Ill-fitting 
collars often cause these affections. 

Be sure that your horse is adapted to the work you 
design him to perform, in size, form, and particularly 
so in disposition. Do not forget that the horse must go 
on foot while you ride, and avoid injuries from hard 
driving. Do not allow him to stand without covering 



466 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

when warm, in severe weather or in a draft of air, but 
cover him with a good blanket, and especially his front 
parts instead of his hind parts, and thus escape colds, 
pneumonia and rheumatic affections. Do not censure 
another person for something you ought to have at- 
tended to personally, namely, as to care, feeding water- 
ing or grooming, and discharge all help that neglects 
or abuses your horses. Provide suitable shelter, food 
and pure water. Allow but a small quantity of cold 
water at a time when your horse is heated. Feed but 
very little corn, especially in hot weather, as fevers as- 
sume a more aggrivated form in horses fed entirely 
upon corn. Oats, clean and bright, and good timothy 
hay are good enough for any horse. Give each horse, 
twice a week, a tablespoonful of soda, and the chances 
are they will never be troubled with the colic, worms 
or bots. Do not increase allowance of food in antici- 
pation of a hard day's work or drive, also avoid change 
of food after such. Commence a long journey at a 
moderate rate of speed and increase it if necessary to- 
wards the end, and do not stop the horse to cool off 
before reaching the stable, where you are sure of care. 
Before you tie in stall examine its floors, and remove 
everything from the manger and see that there are no 
holes for the grain to escape. Do not let your pride 
overrule your judgement. I believe a strict observ- 
ance of the foregoing rules will save many a person, in 
a great measure, from the expense of surgical or veter- 
inary aid, and prolong the life of many a good horse. 
Retain the horse that is kind and in which your 
family has confidence, and increase your care with his 
added years. Do not sell him to suffer from neglect 
and hard usage in his old age. "A merciful man is 
merciful to his beast." 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 467 

HOW TO HALTER AND EDUCATE THE COLT. 

In order to catch and halter a wild colt put it in a 
small inclosure — a good box stall is best — then take a 
light pole two inches or less in diameter and ten feet 
long; two inches from the small end drive a nail, and 
eight inches from that one drive another. Take a com- 
mon rope halter, with a stale ten feet long, spread the 
nose piece well open, and then hang the halter by the 
head piece upon the nails in the pole; take hold of the 
pole at the back end with the right hand, and farther 
up catch the pole and rope in the left hand. You now 
have perfect control of the halter and rope. Approach 
the colt from the left side and present the halter for his 
examination. Curiosity leads him to turn his head 
and look at it, when quietly pass the head of the halter 
back of his ears, his nose being in the nose-piece; turn 
the pole gently over, at the same time pull upon the 
stale with the left hand and you have haltered him 
alone and without excitement, which should always be 
avoided, Now, standing opposite the shoulder, pull 
sharply sidewise (with the right hand only), releasing 
him instantly. This can be done very easily in this 
way. but not with a steady pull. The colt will at once 
return to his former position. Repeat until he will 
remain standing with his head toward you. Then step 
to the right side and repeat as before. He will now 
move toward you every time you move. Now quietly 
pass a surcingle around him and buckle loosely. Then 
double twenty-five feet of half-inch cotton rope in the 
center, and pass the double end from shoulder back- 
ward underneath the surcingle, one-half its length; 
take hold of both ends of the rope with the right hand 
and grasp the halter with the left; by pulling a few 
times upon the surcingle he will become reconciled to 
it, when you can buckle the surcingle somewhat closely. 
Now place open ends of rope upon neck, and turn the 



468 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

folded end over several times, which will form a loop. 
Open it wide, and, standing forward of the hip, reach 
with the right hand and take hold of the hair or bush 
of the tail. Should he be restive, take fast hold of the 
halter and turn him around a few times, Ivhich will 
produce dizziness, and he will allow you to pass the 
loop formed with the rope under his tail in the 
form of a crupper, but leave it loose — do not draw 
it up close. Now tie a knot in the halter under the 
jaw; pass the ends of the rope each side of the neck 
and through this nose piece. Then, standing in front 
of him, pull forward, and he will come like a rocket. 
Step aside and allow him to pass. Now turn him and 
repeat until he will follow without a pull. This 
method is heartily endorsed by all horsemen, as it 
gives the colt no chance to pull upon the halter. He 
follows instead of being led. Give him several lessons 
in leading, then change rope for leather halter, and tie 
in the stall as follows: Tie the tail rope to the manger 
first, a proper length; then tie the halter one foot 
longer than the tail rope, thus avoiding any pull at 
the head whatever, which prevents him from breaking 
loose. 

TO BIT AND GUIDE THE COLT. 

After a colt has been halter broken the next thing 
necessary to teach it is, to allow the bit in its mouth; 
and until reconsiled to its prensence, it con not be 
checked with good results. To do this take a light 
open bridle with a small smooth bit, put this on the 
colt and allow it to go for a few days, removing it only 
long enough to eat and drink until it has become ac- 
customed to it. Then harness it, and teach it to 
stand reined up, by leaving it in that way a few min- 
utes at first; lengthen the time and tighten the rein 
as it improves, but care should be taken not to rein 
it to tight at any time. To teach it to be guided 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 469 

by the lines, attach them to the bit rings as usual 
but do not pass them through the terrets, let them lie 
upon each side; by this means they can easily be turned 
to the right or left when standing behind them; but 
they can not turn entirely around unless allowed to do 
so, and can be forced to move both ends at the same 
time. This method is of great value to teach old 
horses that do not turn promptly; for if there is any 
quite horse that is aggravating, it is one that turns but 
one end at a time. In giving this lesson it should be 
repeated until they obey promptly. In case they are 
stubborn and will not turn, use a whip to help draw 
their attention, but do not strike but one blow, and 
that when the pull is made. Pull them first to the 
right and then to the left, and they will soon learn to 
come as if hung on a pivot. 

HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO STOP OR STAND. 

Take a rope, strap, or strong web, fifteen feet long. 
If not using any harness, place a sircingle around the 
colt, pass one end of the rope under the sircingle and 
fasten it to one front foot; start the colt forward, pull 
the foot up to the body, and say "whoa-," use but one 
word and speak gently; use the lines but little to 
check it; only to keep it straight; repeat this several 
times and give it a lesson every day, for a while, and 
it will soon learn to stop by the word " whoa " without 
pulling upon the lines or bit. Any horse can be made 
so perfect in this way that should it start when loose, 
it would stop by the word. In giving the colt its les- 
son with the foot rope it should be used on both sides, 
changing occasionally, and between the hind legs, 
which will remove all fear and nervousness and pre- 
vent any trouble as to kicking, etc. This foot rope 
should be used the first few times when driving, as it 
insures safety and is a good plan to teach a horse to 
stand still in harness. Some consider this too much 



470 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

trouble when training a horse to stand when in use, 
and carry a pair of foot straps instead. These are 
made by having two straps long enough to buckle 
around the front pasterns, and then fasten together 
with a strap four inches long. Thus secured a horse 
can be learned to stand the same as if tied by the 
bridle. It is far safer, and will require but a few les- 
sons to learn it to stand any place unhitched. Either 
method as given is valuable to learn a horse to stand 
when hitching up, or mounting upon its back. A colt 
thus broken will always stand still until told to start. 
This long foot strap is very valuable to learn a horse 
or colt to back. This requires two operators; place 
the foot strap on as usual and while one persons pulls 
upon it to lift the foot, the other takes hold of the 
lines or bit and tries to back the animal. When the 
foot is raised let it down immediately as the horse 
settles back; keep repeating until it learns to back at 
the word ." back," or by the pull upon the lines. To 
learn horses to back is one of the most important parts 
of their education, as a horse that will not back is very 
annoying, and often will not sell well. 

TO MOUNT THE WILD COLT, OR UNSAFE HORSE. 

In order to learn the wild colt or unruly horse to 
be rode, there is no method superior to the Rarey sys- 
tem; that is, fasten up the left fore foot by passing a 
strap around the pastern, raising it up and fastening it 
to the arm. (For this purpose a good strong hold-back 
strap of buggy harness will do). Then take another 
strap long enough to go over the back and down to 
the other front pastern, around which it should be 
fastened. Take hold of the bridle with the left hand 
and this strap with the right hand, turn the horse's 
head to you until he attempts to turn, then quickly 
take the other foot from him and he will come down 
upon his knees. He may make a few struggles, but 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 471 

will soon lie down, then treat him kindly and accustom 
him to being handled in every way; also to the saddle, 
harness, etc., and he will be completely subdued. 

WORKING THE COLT IN SHAFTS. 

After the colt has been well educated as spoken of 
as to its first lessons, it should be placed in shafts. 
To do this, procure three hard-wood poles, two twelve 
feet long and one ten feet long, about the size of a 
buggy pole. Lay two of them down in the form of 
shafts, small ends about two feet apart, back ends about 
ten feet apart; bolt the third pole upon the side poles, 
one foot from the back ends; attach the side straps 
well forward, and the fastening for the tugs upon the 
shafts to suit the length of the tugs. Now place upon 
the colt a strong single harness, and carefully place it 
in the shafts. Once securely hitched, speak gently to 
it to start, which will have to be straight forward, as it 
cannot turn short around or run backward. They 
should be driven once or twice a day until well taught 
to do as wanted, for, once educated in this way, they 
can be hitched to a carriage with safety. These shafts 
are worth more than all the break-carts that were ever 
invented in which to break colts, providing the horse- 
man is not too lazy to walk; and can be made for ten 
cents (the cost of two § x6-inch bolts,) barring the green 
poles and time. In giving the colt its first few lessons 
care must be taken not to work it long so as to worry 
or over-heat it, as that is liable to make it sore and 
sulky, and it will not learn so fast as where this is 
avoided. 

KICKERS AND RUNAWAYS. 

In handling colts or old horses that are inclined to 
kick, before attaching them to anything they should 
be given a few lessons in harness. This can be done 
by placing upon them a single harness with long tugs. 
Then take an open bridle that has loops on the head- 



472 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

stall, for the over-check to pass through. This over- 
check should be twenty-six inches long when made 
up, and is made by taking two straps one-half inch 
wide, the proper length, with buckles at one end to 
fasten in bit rings, and a loop at the other end for the 
rein to pass through, with a sliding loop to hold them 
together in the center. After this is attached to the 
bridle, take twenty-six feet of quarter inch rope, 
double it in the center, place it over the head, pass 
each end down the head and through the bit rings 
from outside, up through the loops on the ends of the 
over draw, then back through the territs. Now fasten 
a ring to the crupper just back of the hip straps; pass 
the ropes through this, and by pulling elevate its head 
as high as wanted. In pulling upon these ropes care 
must be taken not to pull too hard or sudden, for it is 
very severe, and may cause the colt to rear up and fall 
backward, thus injuring it; nor should the head be 
elevated too high at the start; but if they persist in 
kicking, raise the head a little higher, which will sub- 
due them. Now fasten the tugs to a swingletree and 
allow it to drag on the ground, or attach a board to it. 
When an attempt is made to kick, pull lightly on the 
rope, which will raise the head so they cannot kick. 
A few lessons in this way will soon cause them to quit 
kicking. When placed in the shafts, these ropes should 
be tied to them the proper length after elevating the 
head. In using this method, the bit known as the 
" Rockwell bit " should be used. It is a four ring bit; 
two of the rings (or links) slide upon the bit. The 
over-check should be buckled in these sliding rings or 
links. The same bit is also good to drive* a hard 
puller or runaway horse with. By sliding the loop 
down that holds the over-check together, it gives such 
power as will control any horse. Another plan for a 
runaway is, where the common bit is used, take a 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 473 

quarter inch rope fifteen feet long, tie around the neck, 
the same as the common rope halter; double the rope 
and pass it between the loop and neck far enough to 
put the loop in the horse's mouth, which forms a severe 
bit by pulling on the long end of the rope. Other 
methods which are good and can often be adopted in 
case of necessity, is to take a good, strong, hard -twisted 
cord, tie this in the rings of a common snaffle bit, so 
that it is some shorter than the bit. When the pull is 
made the force comes upon this cord instead of the 
bit, which will hold most any horse. Or take a cord 
of the same kind and pass it through the rings and 
around the nose, tieing it together underneath. This 
prevents the horse from opening its mouth when 
pulled upon, and will control a hard puller or vicious 
horse. To form the common kick strap, fasten a ring 
to the crupper, as spoken of before, but fasten it well 
back; take a strap or rope long enough to pass from 
shaft to shaft; tie or buckle one end fast, pass the other 
end up over the hips through the ring, and down to the 
other shaft and fasten it. Very often a colt can be 
driven this way with perfect safety. 

TRAINING THE MOUTH. 

The mouth of the horse should be well trained, so 
that he will readily obey the rein at all times; for a 
good mouth is one of the essential points in a good 
horse. Every possible precaution should be used not 
to make the mouth sore, and to make it what it should 
be; for a horse with a bad mouth can never be relied 
upon. This will be best accomplished first, by care of 
the mouth and proper handling. Teach the nervous 
horse to submit to the bit, and the dull one to arouse 
at the motion of it. In driving, a steady rein should 
be kept, and the horse should be taught to pull upon 
the reins only sufficiently to keep him steady in his 
gait. When using a fine driving horse, there is a cer- 



474 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

tain feel of the bit in the horses mouth, which is 
pleasant to the driver, and makes the horse act well. 
He holds his head in the proper position and readily 
obeys the rein This feel is understood by all good 
horsemen; yet few know how to train a horse's mouth, 
so as to obtain it. If a horse pulls hard upon the bit 
all the time, he is a nuisance, and one that will not 
permit any pull at all is no better. The bit is the con- 
trolling power in horsemanship, and a perfect control 
of the mouth can only be obtained by a careful and 
judicious course of bitting, and afterward by careful 
driving. Severe bits of any kind are in most cases an 
injury to horses, and should never be used if it can 
possibly be avoided; as with a spirited or ambitious 
horse they only have a tendency to anger them and 
make them fight the bit; whereas, if a pleasant one is 
used in their place, the horse will at once act much 
better Severe bits will also cause the mouth to be- 
come hard, calloused and void of feeling, so that bits 
have but little or no effect. This often causes hard 
pulling and uncontrollable horses. 

WILD AND UNSTEADY HORSES. 

Some young horses seem wild and refuse to trot 
honest. Long, slow drives are the best to teach such 
horses to be steady, and regular road work in the 
hands of a good horsman is what they need. Excita- 
ble horses should be gradually accustomed to trotting 
in company, and should be coaxed rather than forced. 
It sometimes improves such horses to drive them in 
double harness for a time. If this be done, care should 
be taken to keep them as quiet as possible, thus teach- 
ing them to be steady. This is best accomplished by 
working them with a well-learned horse that is prompt 
and fast, so that he can always go as fast, as well as 
slow, as the nervous horse can. 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 475 

DRIVING HORSES. 

No rule can be given for the proper driving of a 
horse on the road or track. A few hints may be given, 
but to acquire the ability to drive a horse well requires 
pactice and a careful study of horse nature. Not every 
man can become a skilful driver; it is a profession that 
requires study. In driving a pair of horses, aim to 
make them drive alike. Change the bits and reins 
until it is found what suits the team; use bits that are 
strong and that will best suit the horses without irrita- 
tion. Sharp bits are not often needed. It is difficult 
to find two horses that will drive exactly alike. The 
one may need the whip, while it would irritate the 
other. Aim to teach all horses to be kind and obedi- » 
ent, and always be sure they understand what is 
wanted of them before attempting to force them. 
Some men whip a horse for no apparent purpose. 
Teach them to be quiet, for a quiet horse will always 
sell well. 

In driving always hold a steady line, and if the 
horse needs urging use the whip lightly. Do not 
slap or jerk with the line, for that will soon spoil any 
horse. In the education of a horse the first, and one 
of the most essential things, is to teach him to walk. 

A FAST WALK IN A HORSE 

Is the most valuable gait that training can acquire 
with most horses. It is very valuable in a plough or 
wagon horse, and particularly so in a saddle or driving 
horse. Some horses will trot along very well until 
they come to ascending ground, when you wish to re- 
lieve them by letting them walk up grade. They then 
fall into a slow, lazy walk, that is very trying to the 
driver's patience; but a well trained walker will step 
off very briskly at the rate of four miles an hour, and 
the driver feels that he has been detained very little 
by letting his horse walk up the hill, as he starts off at 



476 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

his usual trotting speed, being relieved by the change 
of walking. Colts should be trained to walk fast before 
there is an attempt made to improve them in any other 
gait. This may be accomplished by commencing very 
young, and leading at a walk by your side, urging ad- 
ditional speed little by little, without letting it break 
into a trot; but this must not be continued long at a 
time, so as to weary or tire them. One or two short 
lessons a day will show a wonderful improvement, but 
after-lessons will be required to prevent a relapse. A 
fast and prompt walking farm team is much more val- 
uable than a slow one, as they will accomplish more 
work in the same time, either on the farm or road, 
and, as a general thing, are much more pleasant to 
handle than a slow, sluggish team. 

The horse is a very teachable animal, and if treated 
with consideration and care he will be found easily 
taught any good trait you may wish to teach him, and 
is curable of his various faults. To prevent, though, 
is always better than a cure. 

SPEEDING HORSES. 

In driving horses at a rapid gait they should be 
kept well in hand by holding a steady rein, and learn- 
ing them to pull upon the lines only sufficient to 
steady them in their gait. Do not give them long and 
hard drives, but drive at a moderate gait, speeding 
them over short, smooth parts of the road or track at 
certain intervals. Never aim to drive them beyond the 
point where they seem to like to trot, and will trot 
squarely and willingly; nor beyond an honest gait, 
and lengthen the distance for them to speed as they 
improve. A horse that lacks knee action, or forges or 
cuts his quarters, should be shod heavy in front and 
reined high. One that lacks action behind can be im- 
proved by checking it high, and speeding it over 
declining ground ; but the ground should not decline 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 477 

too much, or the animal may be injured in speeding 
over it. 

VICIOUS, RESTLESS AND TRICKY HORSES. 

Horses, like men, have some very bad habits which 
need reforming, most of which are formed by bad 
education when young. To prevent this, strive to 
educate them right at first. To avoid being injured by 
such horses, adopt such means as will subdue them. 
Some horses are so thin skinned that a harsh curry- 
comb, or a comb in a heavy hand, so irritates them 
that they show resistance. With such horses only use 
a brush or cloth, or in using the comb be careful and 
use it lightly. Speak kindly to them. Harsh treat- 
ment only makes matters worse. If they are inclined 
to kick, or be vicious in any way, tie a rope around the 
neck, and form a loop for in the mouth, and a few 
sharp pulls on this rope will subdue them. While 
grooming with one hand keep the rope in the other 
ready for action, but do not punish them for any 
imaginary offense. 

In teaching a horse to stand to be shod, adopt the 
same method and give him several lessons at home, 
completely subduing him before taking him to the 
shop. For there, where everything is new, is a bad 
place to teach him. Take up the feet and rap on them 
the same as the smith would. Repeat the lesson until 
he stands quietly. To prevent pawing in the stable, 
take a stiff rawhide whip, bore a hole through one of 
the stall boards on a level with the knee or lower. 
Put the large end of the whip in the hole, and fasten 
it tightly. In this way when the horse paws he will 
catch the whip with his foot and pull it back, and in 
flying back it will whip him on the other leg. This 
so frightens him that he will not experiment much 
with it. Some fasten a short chain to the leg with a 



478 EDUCATION OF HORSES. 

strap; this answers very well with some horses, while 
with others it is only an annoyance. 

BALKY HORSES. 

If there is anything on earth that will try the 
patience of a good horseman it is a balky horse, espe- 
cially one that balks without any provocation. The 
imaginary ways to make a balky horse pull are plenty; 
but to do so, is the next thing. I have had considera- 
ble experience with this class of horses, as well as all 
other kinds of tricky ones, and I will just mention a 
few ways that I have adopted to work them and make 
true horses out of them. 

The first thing to do is to find out their true dispo- 
sition. If they are high-bred they are likely to be 
high-spirited, then use every other means before strik- 
ing them. When they attempt to stop, speak to them, 
saying " whoa." Let on you want them to stop; let 
them stand a few minutes; turn them to the right and 
left, speaking quietly to them, then ask them to go, and 
they will be more apt to do so than if they are abused. 
High-bred and spirited horses will require considera- 
ble patience to teach them to pull a heavy load if once 
they have learned the habit of balking, but may be 
very easily taught to do light work. A cold-blooded 
balky horse will generally require punishment to sub- 
due him. Apply the whip sharply to the front legs; 
if this fails, take him out and turn him around in a 
circle until he becomes giddy; hitch him up quickly 
and he will most always go. If this wont do, lengthen 
his traces out, fasten a rope or line to the end of his 
tail, pull the tail down tight between his legs pass 
the line between them, bring it forward and fasten 
it to the end of the wagon tongue, if hitched double. 
In this way he can not pull back, and generally 
goes at the first effort. If hooked single, pull sharply 
on the rope from in front, but look out for him for I 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 479 

have seen them come rapidly. Anything that will at- 
tract their attention will have a tendency to make 
them go, as they cannot think of two things at the 
same time. Therefore give them something else to 
think about. Tie a small cord tightly around the 
front leg or ear, or fasten a small, round button to the 
cord and drop it in the ear. Any of these methods 
may have a tendency to subdue them; but keep cool 
while operating. 

And now having enumerated some of the most im- 
portant requisites as to the care and education of the 
horse, I will give a treaties on their diseases, and also 
those of cattle and sheep. This I will make as plain 
and brief as possible, avoiding all superfluous or tech- 
nical language so the average person may quickly find, 
plainly understand and adopt their use. In this de- 
partment, as in my former writings, I shall not make 
use of any teachings except those that I know from 
practice, observation, or good authority, can be relied 
upon. This treatment, as well as the entire book, is 
intended to give the stock owner such information as 
will enable him to dispense with the unprofitable and 
perilous services of ignorant pretenders, and to apply 
rational means of cure when he happens to be beyond 
the reach of the accomplished veterinarian; and this, 
it is confidently hoped, it will accomplish, for all who 
will intelligently study its pages. 




CHAPTER XXII. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 



Introduction— Symptoms of Diseases and How We May Know 
Them — Treatment of Various Diseases and Injuries to Which 
the Horse is Subject — Disease of Digestive Organs — Colic— 
Botts — Dysentery — Pneumonia — Congestion — Diseased Bladder 
and Kidneys — Colds and Chills — Distemper — Epizootic, Pink- 
eye—Heaves—Glanders—Brain Fever — Fistula and Poll Evil- 
Spavin —Thorough Pins — Ring Bone — Curbs — Cribbing — Lam- 
pass— Scratches and Grease Heel— Thrush — Injured Feet- 
Founder— Atrophy— Sprained Tendons, Stifle Whirlbone or 
Pasterns— Injured Joints — Swelled Limbs— Surfeit and Mange- 
Galls or Boils— Blind Teeth— Weak Eyes— Worms — Choak — 
Sore Mouth or Tongue — Parturition — Foul Tail and Mane- 
Broken tail — Wounds or Cutg — How to Remove Callouses — 
Lock Jaw — Big Head or Jaw — Paralysis — Bleeding Horses — 
Lice— Hide Bound — Diseases of Colts — Formulas for Special 
Medicines — Corrosive Liniment — Dexter Liniment — Sweeney 
Liniment — Thrush ILiniment — Valuable Eye Wash — Cataract 
Liniment— Cooling Lotions as a Leg or Body Wash— Foot 
Oil— May Apple Liniment — Sweating Liniment — Golden Lini- 
ment—Mouth Wash— Tonic Preparation — Worm Powders — 
Fever Powders— Cough Powders— Condition Powders — Cleans- 
ing Powders— Healing Powders — Golden Ointment. 



INTRODUCTION. 



IN discussing this subject I propose to depart from 
the usual method adopted by other works of this 
kind and instead of discussing at length the 
different diseases of stock, with a long article relative 
to pathology, symptoms and diagnosis of each case, 
which causes delay and tends to weary the reader 
without conferring any lasting benefit, to proceed, and 



482 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

give in as brief a way as possible the treatment for 
some of the most common and frequent ailments of 
stock, first among horses, and then cattle and sheep. 
In this part of the work, as well as in all other parts, 
it is my object to be useful rather than offend, or ap- 
pear learned, and in offering to the public the informa- 
tion herein given, I shall do so with candor. I do not 
claim to be the originator of all the treatments given, 
but have in many instances tested the most of them, 
and know them to be of value. As medicines are only 
used to assist nature to effect a cure, those methods 
that will assist the most should be used, and my ex- 
perience is that for internal treatment the proper 
medicines administered in small doses, is far better 
than a heavy dose, and a proper application externally 
in most cases is far better than severe blistering or 
flreing. Kind treatment in the way of good nursing 
will do more toward the restoration of a sick animal 
to health than so much strong medicine. 

Medicines, powerful in their nature, for good or 
evil, are often administered in large doses, when little 
or none is necessary; and such treatment is often pre- 
scribed by those not knowing what ails the animal, or 
without any knowledge whatever of drugs or the 
effect they may have upon the system, and strongly 
urge that they be administered, simply because some- 
body else had used them, and the animal did not die. 
This is all wrong. The first business, when called to a 
patient is to ascertain the cause of the trouble. Think 
for yourself, uninfluenced by the opinion of others, 
and give the patient prompt attention as is thought 
best. When such cases occur that are not pro- 
perly understood and cannot be properly treated by 
the inexperienced, promptly employ some practical 
veterinarian to attend to it. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 483 

SYMPTOMS OF DISEASES, AND HOW TO KNOW THEM. 

The question is often asked: How may we know 
how to tell what the disease is that this or that animal 
is affected with, as it cannot speak? To this question 
I might repeat " nature has but one set of weights and 
measures/' and these only should be used. Thus, if a 
horse or other animal has corns or an injured foot, 
it will be as sure to go lame as it would with an or- 
dinary sprain. The uneasy eye, the anxious expres- 
sion, and the sharp, peculiar look, tells its tale of suf- 
fering, and the description is so plain and true, that 
every one should learn to interpret them. Often the 
suffering can be told by the pulse, which is felt on the 
inner angle of the lower jaw (this being the most con- 
venient place). The state of the pulse tells the condi- 
tion of the heart, whether the disease is of an exhalted 
or depressed character or whether sickness is at all 
present. The pulse is more frequent in young than in 
old animals. In the full grown and healthy horse, it 
beats from 32 to 38 times in a minute; in the ox or 
cow, 35 to 42, and in the sheep 70 to 75. In imflam- 
mation and fever the frequency of the pulse is in- 
creased, in debility and depression it is lower, but 
sometimes quicker than natural. As the pulse varies 
so much it takes some practice to determine and un- 
derstand it. A healthy horse breaths once to three 
or more times beat of the pulse. When the breathing is 
not natural it indicates disease, but both the pulse and 
breathing can be quickened by exposure to heat, or the 
hot sun; hence, the advantage of placing animals in a 
cool and airy place in warm weather when unwell, to 
assists nature in casting off disease. 

Every man ought to be sufficiently acquainted with 
the habits and needs of his stock to be able to tell at 
once when it is even slightly out of condition. The stock 
raiser who gives even a moderote measure of attention 



484 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

to this matter will soon learn the ordinary symptoms 
of slight indisposition, and experience will soon enable 
him to apply the needed remedies. It is very often 
that a slight change in diet, or the administration of 
such simple correctives as every farm contains, will at 
once bring an indisposed animal into thrift again; while 
if neglected in the start and from day to day, the 
disease may assume a fatal form. 

TREATMENT OF DISEASED AND INJURED HORSES. 

Disease of the Digestive Organs — Animals of dif- 
ferent classes in domestication are somewhat differ- 
ently placed in regard to their liability to disease. 
For instance, horses and breeding animals generally, 
are fed with the sole object of keeping them in health 
or in working condition; whereas, cattle, sheep, and 
swine, which are intended for the butcher, are supplied 
with as much provender as can be utilized econimically 
by the organism, the- object being to fatten them as 
quickly as possible, without regard to the remote 
effects of this " forcing system " on the health of the 
animals. A natural result of this artificial method of 
feeding is the production of certain diseased states of 
the digestive organs, from which working animals are 
comparatively exempt. On the other hand, the work- 
ing animal is more frequently subjected to climate in- 
fluences, and to alterations of exertion, sometimes of a 
violent kind, with complete inaction in the stable — 
conditions which render him liable to diseases of the 
respiratory system in particular. But the careless or 
irregular feeding of horses frequently causes disease of 
the digestive organs, w hich causes death by inflammation 
or Colic, Spasmodic and Flatulent. Colic with horses 
is not an uncommon thing, and most every person 
who is in the habit of handling them, is acquainted 
with the cause and symptoms of this disease. Cause: 
A change or excessive amount of food or water, o r 



VETEKINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 485 

some similar unknown cause, which is the result of 
acute indigestion. Symptoms: Rapid breathing, un- 
easiness, pawing, lying down, and rolling. With spas- 
modic colic the pain is more severe, and death occurs 
quicker than with flatulent colic, which is slow in its 
work, often the horse living for several days, and be- 
coming partially or altogether blind. Treatment: 

Tincture of aconite, one ounce; 

Belladonna, one ounce; 

Spirits of eather, one-half ounce. 

Give on tongue from fifteen to thirty drops at a dose 
every twenty minutes, until relief is given. A colt 
will not require as much as a larger horse. In severe 
cases, repeat the dose three times, using at least thirty 
drops at a dose, and then if it does not give relief, take 
sweet milk, one-half pint; turpentine, two tablespoon- 
fuls; and give as a drench. Give an injection of soap, 
salt, and warm water, and apply mustard and warm 
water to abdomen. The animal should never be urged 
out of a walk, and must be kept warm by blanketing, 
if the weather is cool. 

In case the Aconite and Belladonna cannot be pro- 
cured, use Laudanum and Ether, thirty to sixty drops at 
a dose, or twice the amount of Spirits of Camphor, in a 
small amount of water, or in one-half pint of whisky. 
Never resort to heavy drenching, or violent exercise, 
or puncture (unless all other means fail); for such 
treatment has killed more horses than the disease. 
After the animal has recovered, give it light food and 
avoid too much cold water at a time. When recovering 
from a severe attack, measures must be taken to tone 
the stomach; for this purpose use the condition powder 
in light food. 

Note. — -Every farmer should keep a bottle of the 
Colic Remedy, (as made by the first given formula) 



486 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

on hand ready for immediate use at all times; for 
they will find it very valuable, for colic and other 
diseases of the horse, and will see by this work that it 
is very valuable for milk fever with swine, cattle, and 
sheep, and hoven or paralysis when used as prescribed. 

BOTTS. 

Symptoms and treatment the same as in colic. 
Turpentine, Goal Oil and Vinegar, equal parts, well 
shaken together, and rubbed on the eggs of the bot-fly 
on horses' legs, it is said, " will utterly kill them after 
about three applications." This is a safe and easy 
remedy to apply, in the season when the fly is trouble- 
some, and it is much better to kill these pests than to 
run the risk of an ever accumulation of them getting 
into the horses' stomachs and causing sickness, by 
by preventing the food giving proper nutrition. 

DYSENTERY OR SCOURS. 

This is something that occurs very frequently with 
horses, and especially with road horses or colts. 

Cause: A change of food, generally from old to 
new grain, from corn to an over-feed of oats, or 
from grain to grass, and often by a change of water. 
Treatment: 

Water, three pints. 
Whiskey, one gill. 
Wheat flour, one pint. 
Laudnaum, thirty drops, 
And one fresh egg. 

Thoroughly mix and give as a drench. If neces- 
sary, repeat in six hours. A cure will often be effected 
if the animal will drink the wheat flour alone given in 
water. This should be given every two hours until re- 
lief is obtained; and light food, such as oats, bran and 
sweet hay given; care being taken to avoid any violent 
e xercise. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 487 
PNEUMONIA, INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS. 

This is a common and fatal disease with horses, 
and is caused very often by abuse and neglect, which 
causes them to take cold. By riding or driving a 
horse until very warm and then stopping it in a cold 
draft to cool out, or by leaving a window open in the 
stable during a cold and sudden change, are some of 
the most fruitful causes. 

Symptoms: The first attack is rather slow, the 
breathing is more or less laborious, and the patient is 
dejected and down spirited. The coat is rough, the 
body and legs cold, and the bowels constipated; the pa- 
tient stands with head and ears drooped and legs apart 
as if to prevent falling. On examination, by placing 
the ear against the side of the patient, over the lungs, 
if a grating or tearing noise can be heard as the patient 
breathes, prompt treatment must be given. 

Treatment: First make the patient as comfortable 
as possible in a good warm box-stall, well bedded, if in 
the winter, and kept dry and clean if in the summer. 
Then give on tongue twenty drops of the colic cure, 
which will regulate the pulse. If necessary repeat the 
dose every thirty minutes, or until the animal breathes 
naturally. After giving the first dose, make a thick 
solution of mustard by stirring 

Ground mustard into water or cider vinegar, 

and rub it well into the hair along the throat, chest, 
and over the lungs; cover with an old blanket and 
leave it on for some time. If in cool weather put a 
blanket over the patient to keep it warm; wash the 
legs in vinegar and salt as hot as can be applied, and 
rub vigorously with the hands until dry to get up & 
circulation, then bandage with flannel. If the patient 
commences to recover with first treatment discontinue 
the use of medicine, if not, contine to give the colic 
cure as directed, and keep the patient warm. As soon 



488 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

as it can be induced to eat, give soft food with the 
Condition Powder in it twice a day, and a tablespoon- 
ful of tincture of iron in the water once or twice a day. 
Care must be taken not to give too much food until 
recovery is complete. 

OVER RIDING OR DRIVING. 

Very often brutal or thoughtless persons ride or 
drive a horse so hard as to cause congestion on the 
road. Often the horse will reel and fall in his tracks, 
or upon stopping a thumping noise can be heard sev- 
eral feet away, and he can hardly stand. 

Treatment: Bleed freely in the mouth or neck; a 
drop of blood now is worth a pint in an hour; give a 
small amount of salt water at first, and if relief is not 
obtained in a short time, 

Give thirty drops of the colic cure; 

Repeat every thirty minutes until relief is given; bathe 
the head with cold water and keep the body warm to 
to prevent chilling. If any evil effects are observed 
afterwards, use the Cleansing Powders in soft food or 
turn them on grass. 

INFLAMMATION OF BLADDER AND KIDNEYS. PROFUSE 

STALING. 

This is something that horses are troubled with 
considerably, and is caused by bad food or exposure to 
cold, rain, storms, etc. 

Treatment: Use the Cleansing or Condition Pow- 
der freely for some time, and give 

One ounce of sweet Spirits of Nitre; 

Or evacuate the bladder with catheter. 

For horses press into the passfige the pith of an onion; 

And for mares introduce a little black pepper. 

Either one will produce staling in a few moments. 

Foul Sheath. — All horses are troubled more or less 
with foul sheaths, and they should be looked after and 
cleaned by washing in warm water and castile soap, 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 489 

then oiled with fresh lard or sweet oil. Either of these 
troubles can be told by the difficult staling. 

CHILLS, COLDS AND DISTEMPER. 

These diseases are of frequent occurrence with 
horses, but neither one at all dangerous if promptly 
attended to. Chills and colds occur more with horses 
that are in use, than with colts or horses that run idle; 
and are caused by exposure and neglect. Many dis- 
eases and most fevers in horses as well as persons, are 
preceded by a chill, denoted by shivering, and if the 
chill be checked promptly the disease may be averted. 
The best means of accomplishing this is to give the 
usual dose of colic cure. Hand rub the legs and band- 
age loosely, also throw over the animal an extra blan- 
ket for a few hours, and give all the cold water the 
animal will take. The patient should have extra care 
for a few days until it fully recovers. Distemper is a 
colt disease, but frequently old horses are troubled 
with it, and of its being contagious there is no doubt; 
for when it once breaks out on a farm, it generally at- 
tacks all the young horses before it ceases, and quite 
often the older ones. Symptoms: The animal be- 
comes stupid, hair looks rough, and a discharge ap- 
pears at the nose. First, of a watery nature, but as the 
disease grows worse, the discharge becomes thicker and 
more offensive. One of the peculiar features of the 
disease is a swelling or tumor under the jaw. The size 
of the swelling indicates the severity of the disease, 
and often when neglected and not properly treated, it 
causes death by choking the animal; or if it recovers 
its wind will most always be effected. 

Treatment: Give the Condition powder in soft food 
twice a day; steam the patient well by placing a bag 
over the nose which has been filled with some hot 
hops and bran, pouring hot water in to keep up the 



490 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

heat, or put some pine tar in an old shoe that has a 
hole in the toe, set the tar on fire, and smoke will 
come out of the toe of the shoe, which can be held 
under the patient's nose, and in this way well smoked. 
In bad cases bathe the throat well with mustard 
liniment, or distemper liniment, then smoke daily, as 
directed; or by steaming well every day, and using 
the distemper liniment until a free discharge from 
he nose is started; then repeat occasionally to keep 
them running freely. If they gather under the jaw, 
open with a knife as soon as they are ripe, which is as 
soon as the lump becomes soft. To hasten the gather- 
ing, apply under the jaw or throat a poultice of hops 
and bran. If this simple treatment is effectually 
carriedout, using goods anitary means to keep the 
patient warm and dry in the winter, feeding soft food 
with the Condition powder, and in summer allowing 
free access to grass, the chances are that you will not 
lose one horse in a lifetime with these diseases. 

EPIZOOTIC PINKEYE. 

This is a contagious disease that occurs occasionally 
in an epidemic form throughout the country, and kills 
or injures a great many horses. 

Symptoms: The attack is usually sudden ; the horse 
droops its head and ears, and stands with back arched 
and legs braced as if to bring relief. These symptoms 
are always accompanied by a hoarse, dry cough, rapid 
breathing, scanty, high colored urine, and hard mucus 
covered dung. 

Treatment: Bathe the throat, chest, and over the 
lungs well with mustard, mixed in water, and cover 
well with a cloth or blanket; give the Condition or 
Cleansing powder- in soft food; smoke as in distemper 
once a day, and take 

Tincture of Gentian Root; 
Tincture of Iron; 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 491 

equal parts; give on tongue three times a day a tea- 
spoonful, use moderately in warm weather or turn out 
for exercise, and place all feed on the ground, which 
will cause the horse to keep its head down, thus giving 
relief. This disease being contagious, it is best not to 
bring the sick animal in close contact with the well ; 
and by thoroughly cleaning the stable, using asafcetida 
in the troughs, and feeding the Condition or Cleansing 
powders once a day to the well horses, it can be pre- 
vented from spreading. 

HEAVES. 

Heaves with the horse is similar to the asthma in 
the human family. It can be discovered by the diffi- 
cult breathing, wheezing and frequently the cough. It 
is caused by feeding too much hay, especially dusty or 
clover hay. This statement is confirmed from the fact 
that it is seldom known in the West where clover is 
not used. 

Treatment: Feed good, sound grain, sweet timothy 
hay, prairie hay or corn fodder, and give indigo water 
to drink twice or three times a week. A piece of 
indigo the size of a hickory nut in one gallon of water, 
or use 

Powdered alum, one pound; 
Oil of origanum, two ounces; 
Arsenic, one-half ounce. 

Dose, teaspoonful twice a day ; or smartweed juice given 
as a drench, one-half pint at a time, twice a day for a 
few days is excellent. 

GLANDERS. 

The best treatment for this fatal disease is to lead 
the patient to some suitable burial place and destroy it. 
Then thoroughly disinfect the entire premises by 
cleaning up every possible thing and using whitewash 



192 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

and carbolic acid freely. No pains should be spared, 
as this disease is highly contagious to both man and 
beast. 

BRAIN FEVER, BLIND STAGGERS. 

Diseases bearing these names are but different 
stages of the same disease. At first the brain only is 
oppressed, but as the animal grows worse, the brain be- 
comes highly inflamed, causing the horse to become 
frantic; hence, it is called Blind, or Mad Staggers. 
Cause: An over gorge of grain, or anything that will 
cause a severe case of indigestion, thus deranging the 
stomach, which effects the brain. Symptoms: At first 
the horse will stand with his head down, and often 
pressed against the wall or fence; eyes closed; ears 
and tail droop; skin cold; nasal membrane of a dark 
color, and breathing laborous. As the disease grows 
worse, the eyes will brighten, the nasal membrane 
will redden, the skin becomes hot, and the breathing 
becomes rapid and sharp, while every movement is 
quick and jerky. In this stage the animal is mad and 
frantic. Treatment: The first thing to be done is 
something that will quiet the animal; for this purpose 
give the usual dose of the Colic Cure, and if the symp- 
toms indicate a severe case, double the dose. In ab- 
sence of this, bleed freely from the neck or mouth. 
Either of these methods have a tendency to relax the 
system, which will give relief. Then follow this treat- 
ment with a good physic; for which there is nothing 
better than 

Fresh Lard, or Raw Linseed Oil. 

a quart at a dose, given as- a drench. Then give as 
an injection, 

Warm water, one gallon; 
Turpentine, one tablespoonf ull : 
Soap, enough to make a suds. 

If relief is not obtained in three or four hours, repeat 
the drench and injection. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 493 

PARALYSIS, SPINAL MENINGITIS. 

This disease generally, partially effects both hind 
legs, making the gait unsteady. A horse thus afflicted 
is past his prime; they may be patched up so they will 
do for slow work, but any severe use is liable to cause 
the disease to reappear. Treatment: Feed well with 
soft and light food — good oats, barley, bran, and if 
possible, grass; in absence of grass feed raw potatoes. 
Groom thoroughly several times a day, brushing the 
hind quarters vigorously with a coarse brush; cover 
the small of the back with a 

Wet flannel cloth; 

Over this put an oil cloth, 

Then a piece of blanket. 

Keep the flannel cloth wet all the time with cold water, 
and avoid any active exercise. Night and morning 
give a ball made as follows: 

Flour, two tablespoonfuls; 
Tartar Emetic, one-quarter teaspoonful; 
Golden Seal, one heaping teaspoonful; 
Molasses, to make a stiff dough. 

Continue treatment until the animal has recovered 
sufficient to warrant its discontinuance. 

HOW TO BLEED A HORSE. 

In order to bleed a horse from the neck, take three 
feet of strong, hard-twisted cord and form a loop at one 
end; stand on the left side of the animal and pass the 
cord around its neck, about one foot from its ears, 
having the loop on top; pass the end of the cord up 
through it and pull downward until the cord becomes 
very tight around the neck,- which will cause the juglar 
vein to fill and extend out so it can be seen very 
plainly. Now take a lance, or in absence of this, wrap 
the large blade of a pocket knife with a cloth or cord, 
leaving about one-half inch of the point bare, which 
must be very sharp; set this or the lance on the ex- 



494 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

tended vein, holding it with the left hand, while in the 
right take a hard stick about the size of a hatchet han- 
dle, and strike the lance or knife-blade sufficiently hard 
to drive it into the vein, which will cause the blood to 
flow freely. Draw one gallon or more of blood, as the 
case may require; and when wanting to check the 
bleeding, loosen the cord; insert a pin through both 
sides of the cut and fasten it together with a hair from 
the tail or mane. Carefully remove the pin the next 
day and oil the cut, which will soon heal. In order to 
bleed from the mouth, take a sharp-pointed knife 
blade and, insert it into the second ridge in the roof of 
the mouthy Do not cut any higher than the second 
ridge, as it may cause the animal to bleed too much. 
In order to check the bleeding, feed dry bran or hold 
tea grounds or the scrapings of a linen cloth on the 
cut. 

FISTULA AND POLL-EVIL. 

These terrible diseases of the horse are of frequent 
occurrence and very annoying and hard to cure; but 
the treatment given here can be relied upon, or at 
least it has been successfully used in many instances 
and highly recommended. 

Fistula appears at the top of the shoulder-blade, 
and on either side or both at the same time, and also 
occasionally on the hips. 

Poll-evil occurs on top of the neck just behind the 
ears. Both these diseases are caused by a bruise. 

Treatment: When they first make their appear- 
ance they can be observed by a swelling and soreness; 
and up to the time that matter begins to form, the cor- 
rosive liniment will be found very effectual to drive it 
away. (See prescription how to make it.) This is a 
powerful medicine, and in using it the horse must be 
fastened so that he cannot rub or bite the affected 
arts, as it will burn for a minute or two. Apply 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 495 

every morning with a small mop for some three days, 
and then take fine powdered gun-povjder, mix heavily in 
lard, grease the part well and let go three days. Re- 
peat the treatment over as given three times. If this 
fails to cheek it, the treatment will have to be changed, 
and one used to cause heavy suppuration. In using 
the corrosive liniment do not wash the affected part. 
To cause suppuration use the May apple liniment. 
(See prescription.) A thin coating of ths should be 
spread over the affected part every morning and care- 
fully washed off at night, and then greased. This treat- 
ment should be continued until matter forms, and as 
the pus begins to ooze out increase the amount of 
liniment; and the length of time between dressing up 
to twenty-four hours, but not longer. This treatment 
should continue for some three weeks, always cleans- 
ing thoroughly with warm soap suds before dressing. 
In some three weeks after using the May-apple 

liniment, omit the use and make a liniment as follows: 

i 

Turpentine, one and a half ounces; 
Croton Oil, one-half ounce; 

Cleanse the wound thoroughly with warm water and 
castile soap, and apply this liniment with a feather in- 
ternally until healed. 

BOND, BOG OR BLOOD SPAVIN AND THOROUGH-PINS. 

These are ailments of the hock joints, and are hard 
to do anything with, but with time and close attention 
they can often be partially cured. 

Treatment: Use the corrosive liniment as given for 
fistula; continue treatment as directed — that is, apply 
the liniment three days, then grease once and let go three 
days. Continue this for three or four weeks; then dis- 
continue for two weeks after which repeat again if 
necessary. Meantime feed soft, light food, and the 
Condition powders occosionally; turn loose in a box- 



496 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

stall or use at slow, moderate work. Where this treat- 
ment fails have it properly treated by fireing or fatten 
and dispose of. Beware of bogus quacks offering to 
cure these blemishes. 

RING-BONE AND CURBS. 

Ring-bone is a bony substance or growth that ap- 
pears just at the top of the hoof, and generally extends 
entirely around it. It is caused by a sprain, and, if 
noglected, makes the horse very lame, and soon be- 
comes hard and difficult to remove. 

A curb is a hard, bony substance on the back part 
of the leg just below the hock, and the same may be 
said of it as of ring-bone. 

Treatment: For ring-bone, the same as spavin. 
Another good preparation is 

Corrosive Sublimate, one ounce; 
Spanish Fly, one ounce; 
Venice Turpentine, one ounce; 
Lard, six ounces. 

Mix well, and apply once a day. 

.For curb, if the affected part is feverish, first reduce 
the fever by applying the cooling lotion, (see recipe,) 
then bathe with the corrosive liniment once a day, then 
wash with soft soap and hot water; continue treatment 
for a week, then leave go a week; and if necessary re- 
peat the treatment. This same treatment will remove 
any splint or callous. 

CRIBBING WIND-SUCKING. 

This strange habit of catching hold of some object 
with the mouth, and sucking wind is very common, 
and no cause can be attributed for it, and no effectual 
cure. Some prevent it by buckling a strap tightly 
around the neck, and others by running a fine saw 
between the front teeth, but a horse of this kind is 
frequently subject to colic and should be avoided. 



VETERINARY DEPARIMEXT FOR HORSES. 497 

LAMPASS. 

This is something that horses, and especially colts, 
are troubled with a great deal. It is simply an in- 
flammation of the muscles in the front part of the 
roof of the mouth, that have the appearance of ridges 
or bars. Treatment: Puncture them well with as harp 
knife, and bathe with copperas water. 

SCRATCHES AND GREASE HEEL. 

These are two of the dreaded diseases of the Ameri- 
can horsemen, although similar in their characteristics, 
grease heel is the most obstinate to cure. They appear 
on the back part of the leg, extending from the heel 
of the foot to the fetlock, and in extreme cases often 
reach up to the knee or hock. The scratches begin 
with a scabby covering of the skin, coming in patches 
and continuing to spread until the leg is one mass of 
sores. 

Grease heel commences by the flesh bursting open, 
and an offensive matter oozing out. If neglected it 
spreads rapidly and becomes very sore. 

Treatment: Wash clean with soft soap and dampen 
affected parts with Dexter Liniment for three days, 
after which grease with lard and gun powder. This 
will cure any case if kept out of water and mud. Dry 
snow will not injure it, but rather will be of an ad- 
vantage in reducing the fever. In all cases turn on 
grass, or feed soft food, and use the condition or 
cleansing powders, to cleanse the blood and system. 
Sulphur and sweet oil, mixed to a thin salve, is also 
an excellent cure for scratches, mange, surfeit, and 
similar diseases. 

THRUSH. 

This is a disease of the foot caused by neglect, 
damp, filthy stables, and also by a bruise 01 injure of 
any kind. It often becomes very bad before the inat 



498 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

tentive owner or groom notices it, which is observed 
by a very offensive smell. 

Treatment: Clean out and pare away all the dis- 
eased part of the foot, and use the following liniment: 

Oil of Cedar, one ounce; 
Oil of Sassafras, one ounce; 
Gum of Camphor, one ounce; 
Corrosive Supplimate, one scruple; 
Raw Linseed Oil, three ounces. 

Apply once a day for two or three days and keep the 
feet dry and clean while under treatment. This will 
soon effect a cure, or clean out and apply salt and wet 
blue clay as a stuffing. 

DRESSING TO SOFTEN FEET. 

Sliced Onions, one pint; 

Oil Meal, one quart; 

Charcoal, one-half pint; 

Boiling Water, sufficient to form a stuffing. 

Stuff the feet and fasten in with a cloth poke if you 
have no boots. This is excellent for feet either sound 
or unsound; and also is valuable in case of founder. 

INJURED FEET. 

In case an animal injures its foot with a nail or 
snag of any kind, examine the foot carefully, and if 
possible, find and remove the article, after which clean 
out the foot well and apply Turpentine or Sea Salt to 
the wound; cover with a tarred rag, and be sure to 
cleanse and dress every day, to keep the wound open. 
After two or three days use the Dexter liniment in place 
of the turpentine or salt. In case of graveled foot, 
keep the foot encased in a poultice made of oil meal, 
bran and warm water; put this in a sack and keep the 
foot in it, changing fresh every day, until open; then 
cleanse with soap and watei, and apply the Dexter lini- 
ment until healed. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 499 
FOUNDER, CORNS. 

Frequently horses become foundered by eating an 
over feed of grain or drinking too much water. Symp- 
toms and effect: So stiff that they move about with 
great difficulty, and if not properly treated at once, it 
so affects the feet that it causes them to contract and 
become wrinkled. 

Treatment: Bleed freely in the neck and in the 
small warts under the pastern joints. Take 

Powdered Alum, one-fourth pound; 
Sunflower Seed, two ounces; 
Jimson Seed, two ounces; 

Mix, and give a dose of one tablespoonful twice a day 
for two days. If the pastern joints become inflamed 
and swollen, use sweating liniment. (See recipe.) Feed 
oats and bran mashes, with Condition powders and 
new potatoes in absence of grass, and apply the foot 
dressing to the feet for a week or more. 

For corns, pare out the foot well and apply the 
dressing or foot oil until all soreness is removed. 

S WE ENE Y ATROPHY. 

What is known as sweeney is located in the shoul- 
der or hip. It is frequently caused by a sprain or 
wrench, in some way injuring the muscular tissues, 
and sometimes by diseased feet, which cause the 
muscles of the shoulder to perish for want of exercise. 

Treatment: Apply twice a day for several days the 
liniment made as follows: 

Oil Origanum, four ounces; 

Oil Hemlock, four ounces; 

Oil Spikenard, two ounces; 

Oil Sassafras, two ounces; 

Chloroform, three ounces; 

Powdered Camphor Gum, two ounces; 

Olive Oil, six ounces; 

Alcohol, one quart. 

Mix, and shake well before using. 



500 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

Give quiet work or turn out for exercise, and keep 
the skin loose by pulling at it every day. Some cure 
this by taking an old and well-smoked hog joal, fry it 
out, and in the grease obtained mix gun-powder, and 
grease with this. 

SPRAINED TENDONS. 

The horse is liable to sprains of the tendons by 
accident, fast or reckless driving. Symptoms : Sore- 
ness and lameness. 

Treatment: Apply hot water to remove the fever, 
then use the Dexter liniment, which will soon effect a 
cure. 

SWELLED LEGS AND ANKLES. 

This is caused by the feet being diseased, or by im- 
poverished blood, which is caused by improper food 
and care. 

Treatment; Put the system in good order by the 
use of proper food and the Condition powder, and bathe 
the legs with strong copperas water. If the feet are 
diseased treat them as for thrush, or apply the foot 
dressing. 

SURFEIT, MANGE AND FARCEY. 

These are skin diseases caused by a weakened con- 
dition of the system or blood. Symptoms: With sur- 
feit and mange spots or lumps appear upon the skin ? 
which cause a severe itching and rubbing. 

Treatment: Use the Cleansing powders with soft 
food to put the system in a healthy condition, and for 
surfeit or mange take 

Coal oil, one-half pint; 

Lard, one-half pint; 

Carbolic acid, one tablespoonful. 

And oil the affected parts once or twice a day; or use 
the Dexter liniment. Water farcey is a swelling that 
appears on the under part of the belly. It frequently 
gathers and water oozes from it. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 501 

Treatment: In mild cases treat the same as for 
mange, or bathe with hot, strong salt water; in severe 
cases use the corrosive liniment, gun-powder and lard as 
recommended for fistula. Horses thus effected should 
be kept apart from others, and avoid using the same 
curry-combs and brushes. 

LICE. 

Horses sometimes become very lousey, and will do 
no good so long as these annoying pests are allowed 
upon them. Symptoms: Hair looks rough; they be- 
come thin in flesh and are continually rubbing them- 
selves, especially their necks and manes. 

Treatment. Take coal oil and lard, equal parts; to 
this add a small amount of sulphur, and grease them 
well in and under the mane, around the neck and 
along the back, also upon the parts where they seem 
to rub or bite themselves, as that is a sure indication 
that lice are upon those parts. Some bathe horses 
with tobacco juice in order to rid them of lice; but this 
is dangerous, especially if the juice is made very 
strong. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

This occurs when a horse becomes poor and the 
system entirely deranged. Cause: Neglect and bad 
usage. 

Treatment: Feed well with good soft food and use 
freely the Cleansing powder, and if possible give grass 
and special attention to grooming. 

SADDLE OR HARNESS GALLS OR BOILS. 

These are so frequent and annoying to both horse 
and man that the proper treatment for them is of 
value. 

Where the horse can be allowed to go idle it should 
be done until well, but where this cannot be done then 
other means must be resorted to. First, the saddle or 
harness should be so padded as to take the bearing off 



i 



502 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

the affected parts. Then wash clean with warm salt 
water and bathe with Dexter liniment and meat fryings 
or pudding grease, equal parts, which will heal any 
common gall; or paint over with white lead, or cover 
with a court-plaster. Where a large collar boil has 
formed, cut it open and cleanse it out with warm 
water, then bathe it internally and externally with the 
Dexter liniment, by the use of a feather. A cheap appli- 
cation for bruises and galls, and to reduce external in- 
flammation, is a 

Decoction of smartweed, two pints-, 
Strong cider vinegar, one pint. 

Make hot, pour over bran and apply as a poultice as 
hot as the horse will bear. 

BLIND OR WOLF TEETH. 

This is something that occurs with most all young 
horses; a small tooth that comes out by the side of the 
jaw tooth. Some people have great fear of them, 
thinking they cause weak eyes or blindness. Whether 
this is true or not, they are of no use and are better 
out than in. They can be very easily removed by the 
use of a pair of strong nippers; or, take a flat iron 
about a foot long with a notch in one; end; set this 
against the tooth so it cannot slip off, and strike the 
iron with a hammer, but not too hard. This will 
loosen the tooth so it can easily be removed. Occasion- 
ally a horse has a tooth that wants removing, as it is 
decayed or injured in such a way that it is annoying 
to the horse. Frequently their teeth need dressing, 
which any good veterinary surgeon can do, or you can 
do it yourself by procuring a tooth rasp. But beware 
of the man who goes through the country pulling 
horses' teeth, and be sure the horse's tooth needs to be 
taken out before allowing it to be pulled. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 503 

A VALUABLE EYE WASH. 

Take three fresh eggs and break them in a quart 
of cold rain water; stir until a thorough mixture is ef- 
fected; boil over a slow fire, stir occasionally, add one- 
half ounce of Sulphate of zinz (white vitrol) to the 
mixture, remove and the curd will settle to the bottom, 
and the liquid rest on top. This liquid thoroughly 
strained makes a valuable eye wash for man or beast. 
The curd applied to the eye will draw the inflamma- 
tion out. The liquid, if strained free of any sediment 
and bottled will last a long time. The curd can be ap- 
plied to the eye of the horse by making a hood so it 
fits tightly over the eyes, or one eye, and cut a hole for 
the other. To remove inflammation or soreness caused 
by a blow, or otherwise, or where the inflammation 
has caused the haw to appear, (what a great many 
call hooks, and what ignorant pretenders cut out, 
claiming it is a disease), use the above wash and it 
will effect a speedy cure; or, take 

Tincture of Arnica, one ounce; 
Laudanum, one-half ounce; 
Sugar of Lead, one-half ounce. 

Bath the eyes several times a day, will remove in- 
flammation. To remove slight inflammation take cold 
salt water and bathe the eye; or Belladonna, one part, 
and water, three parts; make fresh every time, and it 
will soon remove it. If you wish to bleed, bleed below 
the eye. To remove dirt, etc., from the eye, insert 
flax seed. To remove film, insert finely powdered 
burnt alum; or equal parts of honey and hen's oil, ap- 
plied with a feather, is excellent. 

CATARACT LINIMENT. 

For a cataract of the eye, try the egg eye wash, or 
the honey and hen's oil; if these fail to effect a cure, I 
would recommend the following liniment: 



504 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

Sweet Spirits of niter, one-half ounce; 
Camphor Gum, one-half ounce; 
Oil Origanum, one-half ounce; 
Ammonia, one ounce; 
Alcohol, four ounces; 
Rain Water, four ounces. 

Apply twice a day for two days with a soft eye brush 
or feather, and keep the horse quiet for the time. This 
was recommended to me by an old veterinarian to .be 
a successful treatment, and is worth trying, for if neg- 
lected the horse is no better, if not worse, than a blind 
one, as it so effects the sight as to cause them to shy. 

COOLING LOTIONS FOR THE LEGS. 

A valuable and cooling wash for horses' legs, to be 
used in rubbing out race horses, or on receiving a 
bruise and prevent callouses, is 

Chloroform, two ounces; 
Alcohol, two ounces; 
Golard's Extract, two ounces. 

Put one-third of this in a quart of rain water, bathe 
and bandage the legs; walk then until nearly dry, 
then remove the bandages and rub lightly with the 
hand. 

Another good and cheap one is, Copperas, one-half 
pound; Rain water, one gallon, used twice a day will re- 
move fever and soften the skin. White oak bark ooze — 
made by boiling the bark until a strong liquid is ob- 
tained; to one-half gallon of the liquid add a handful 
of salt, and apply twice or three times a day, is also good. 

A LEG OR BODY WASH. 

A valuable preparation to stimulate and remove 
all soreness with horses when applied to the legs, loins, 
shoulders, or body, is, 

Cider Vinegar, three quarts; 
Alcohol, one pint; 
Ammonia, two ounces; 
Chloroform, two ounces; 
Sal. Moniac, two ounces; 
Tincture of Arnica two ounces. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 505 

Shake well before using; bandage the legs or cover 
the body with a blanket. 

FOOT OIL. 

Oil of Cedar, two ounces; 
Oil of Hemlock, two ounces; 
Sweet Oil, two ounces; 
American Oil, one gill; 
Neatsfoot Oil, one gill; 
Barbadoes Tar, two gills; 
Origanum Oil, one ounce. 

Apply to frog of foot, will promote health and growth. 

TO REMOVE CALLOUSES. 

Strong hickory ash soft soap applied once a day, 
washing with hot water before each application, will 
remove most any callous or splint. For a hard and 
long standing case, use the soap and corrosive liniment. 
Another good preparation is, 

Soft Soap, four ounces; 

Spirits of Camphor, two ounces; 

Aqua Amonia, one ounce. 

Apply daily, bathing effected parts with very hot water 
before each application. A good general liniment to 
remove callous is, 

Dexter Liniment, two parts; 
Spirits of Camphor, one part. 

Apply once or twice a day, and wash off with hot 
water and soap. The hotter the water the better, as 
it softens the skin and opens the pores. 

THRUSH OIL. 

Oil of Cedar, one ounce; 

Oil of Sassafras, one ounce; 

Gum of Camphor, one ounce; 

Corrosive Sublimate, one scruple; 

Linseed Oil, three ounces. 

i 

Keep the feet dry and apply once or twice a day. 

MAY APPLE LINIMENT. 

Make a strong syrup of May apple roots; while 
boiling add one-fourth as much strong lard as syrup; 



506 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

keep stirring all the time to prevent burning; cool and 
put away for use. This is used for poll evil or fistula 
in their second stage, when matter has formed to draw 
it to the surface. 

CORROSIVE LINIMENT. 

Turpentine, one-half pint; 

Corrosive Sublimate, finely pulverized, one ounce; 

Gum Camphor, one ounce. 

Let stand for a week, shaking every day, when it will 
be ready for use. Always shake well before using. 
Pour it in an earthen vessel and apply it with a swab 
— never apply with the finger. Mark it Poison, and 
keep it out of the way of children. 

WORM POWDER. 

Ginger, eight ounces; 
Black Antimony, six ounces; 
Fenugreek, two ounces; 
Worm Seed, two ounces; 
Capsicum, two ounces. 

Mix thoroughly. Dose, one tablespoonful once a day. 
A change of diet is always desirable. Pin worms, 
which always inhabit the rectum, and occasion per- 
sistent rubbing of the tail, may be most effectually re- 
moved by an injection every morning for a week, of 
three ounces of linseed oil and one-half ounce of spirits 
of turpentine; the agents to be thoroughly blended by 
shaking, and injected into the rectum; or take salty 
lard and grease the inside of the anus. 

WORMS IN HORSES. 

The cause of the production of worms in the body 
is enveloped in mystery. Poverty of the system, pas- 
turing in marshy or wet grounds, or the use of stag- 
nant waters are undoubtedly the predisposing agents. 
Young animals, aged, or weekly ones, are more subject 
to them than stronger subjects. They are, however, 
often found in horses to which none of these condi- 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 507 

tions apply. Worms derive their nutriment by suc- 
tion from the intestinal secretions. 

In some cases the presence of worms may be de- 
tected by their being excreted along with the fceces, 
while in other cases their presence can only be sus- 
pected by a peculiar, rough, dry, unthrifty appearance 
of the coat, or at other times by frequent whisking of 
the tail, and by some dry white matter adhering 
around the anus. In some cases (probably where they 
exist in small numbers) they seem to do no harm, 
while in others they appear to affect the health of the 
horse very injuriously. 

As a general rule, when a horse has worms his sys- 
tem is out of order — possibly not on account of the 
worms, but perhaps the worms find a suitable tene- 
ment in his intestines because they are out of order — 
just as the mange insect will lodge in an unhealthy, 
in preference to a healthy skin. There is no medicine 
more effectual in removing worms than the Worm 
Powder. 

FEVER POWDER. 

Powdered Gum Camphor, two drachms; 
Powdered Opium, one-half drachm; 
Powdered Epecac, one drachm; 
Cream of Tartar, one ounce. 

Mixed. Dose, one tablespoonful once or twice a day. 
This is excellent to abate fever. 

COUGH POWDER. 

Pulverized Blood Root, four ounces; 
Lobelia Seed, four ounces; 
Licorice, four ounces; 
Nux Vomica, two ounces. 

Mixed. Dose, teaspoonful on tongue three times a 
day. This is very valuable for any cough. 



508 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

CONDITION POWDERS. 

For general use: 

Glauber Salts, one pound; 

Ginger, one-half pound; 

Blood Root, one-quarter pound; 

Powdered Golden Seal, one-quarter pound; 

Powdered Licorice, one-quarter pound; 

Sulphate of Iron, one-quarter pound. 

Mix thoroughly. Dose, one tablespoonful once or 
twice a day, as the condition may require. This is 
worth a bushel of the condition powders that you buy. 

CLEANSING POWDERS. 

For general use in all cases of blood disorder, hide- 
bound, etc., it is worth its weight in gold: 

Spanish Brown, two pounds; 
Ginger, one pound; 
Cream Tartar, one pound; 
Black Antimonia, one pound; 
Blood Root, one-half pound; 
Skunk Cabbage, one-half pound; 
Fenugreek, one-half pound; 
Worm Seed, one-half pound; 
Indigo, one-quarter pound; 
Copperas, one-quarter pound; 
Saltpeter, one-quarter pound. 

Mix thoroughly. Dose, same as the condition powder. 

DEXTER LINIMENT. 

Oil of Spikenard, one ounce; 
Oil of Camphor, one ounce; 
Oil of Stone, one ounce; 
Oil of British, one ounce; 
Oil of America, one ounce; 
Oil of Opodeldoc, one ounce; 
Spirits of Turpentine, one pint. 

This is the best general liniment I never knew, either 
for man or beast, as it is invaluable for healing sores, 
either fresh or chronic cases, removing collar boils, 
callouses, ets., with horses, and all cuts or bruises 
chapped hands, burn, etc., with the human family. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 509 

Will also remove the soreness of corns or chilblains 
and is good for rheumatism or a weak back. In using 
it for chapped hands, bruises or fresh cuts with persons, 
take liniment one part, sweet cream, fresh butter or vase- 
line, three parts; mix well an apply. 

HEALING POWDER. 

Burned Alum, one-half onunce; 
Powdered Chalk, one ounce; 
Pulverized Gum Champhor, one drachm; 
Calomel, two drachms. 

Mix and sprinkle on sore ; it will heal quickly, and is 
good to remove proud flesh. 

TO PRODUCE PERSPIRATION. 

Give Tincture aconite, in ten to twenty drop does every 
twenty minutes. Clothe warm. 

SPRAINED STIFFLE OR WHIRLBONE. 

Salt, one tea cup full; 
Black pepper, ground, two ounces; 
Spirits of Turpentine, two ounces; 
White of six eggs. 

Mix and apply, and heat with hot iron until dry; will 
effect a cure. 

TO STOP FLOW OF JOINT WATER. 

Crocus Martis, two ounces; 
Sulphate Zinc, one ounce; 
Molasses, One pint. 

Apply with a swab. 

Capped hock — When first injured, apply the cool- 
ing lotion three times or more a day for one week. If 
of long standing, apply Dexter Liniment twice a day, 
washing with hot water before each application. 
Blisters only aggravate the injury and thicken the skin. 

CANKER, SORE MOUTH, AND TONGUE. 

To cure these diseases ; apply the solution made as 
follows ; 



510 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

Pulverized Borax, one ounce; 
Alum, one ounce; 
Strained Honey, one ounce; 
Warm Water, one pint. 

Several times per day, and give Condition Powders on 
tongue twice per day. Another: 

Sugar of Lead, two ounces; 
Bole Ammoniac, two ounces; 
Burned Alum, two ounces; 
Good Cider Vinegar, three pints. 

Use as a wash twice or three times a day, and keep the 
bit out of the mouth. 

SWEATING LINIMENT. 

Take two gallons of mullen leaves and one gallon 
of rain water; boil until the juice is very strong, and 
use of the following: 

Juice, one-half gallon; 
Cider vinegar, one quart; 
Salt, one-half pint; 
Origanum oil, two ounces; 
And one large beef gall. 

Apply hot on the parts affected. This is one of the best 
preparations for injured whirl-bone or deep-seated 
sprains I have ever tried; also for caked bag (garget) 
with cattle or sheep. When applied, dry in with a hot 
iron, or cover with a blanket. The mullen liquid, vinegar 
and salt are good for swelled or inflammed udders. 

TONIC PREPARATION. 

To make an old horse feel young and nimble, take 

Tincture ot asafoetida, one ounce; 
Cantharides, one ounce; 
Oil of annis, one ounce; 
Oil of cloves, one ounce; 
Oil of cinnamon, one ounce; 
Fenegreek, one ounce; 
Black antimony, two ounces; 
Brandy, two quarts 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 511 

Mix and let stand ten days. Shake well and give ten 
drops to every pail of water. This is better than gin- 
ger, whip or spur. 

Another good and cheap one is 

Common soda, one pound; 
Gun powder, one-fourth pound; 
Gimson seed, three ounces; 

Mix. Dose, tablespoonful once a day for a week, in 
soft food. To prevent driving horses from chilling, and 
contracting cold during the winter, feed them a table- 
spoonful of mustard seed twice or three times a week. 

GOLDEN OINTMENT. 

Lard, three pounds; 
Oil of origanum, two ounces; 
Oil of ceder, one ounce 
Oil of hemlock, one ounce; 
Balsam of fur, one ounce; 
Resin, one-fourth pound. 

Melt the lard and resin and mix with them the oils 
thoroughly; color to orange with anotta, and put in 
boxes while blood warm. 

GOLDEN LINIMENT. 

Coal oil, two ounces, 
Castor oil, two ounces; 
Sweet oil, two ounces; 
Anotta, one half ounce. 

These are excellent remedies for all kinds of sores. 

CARE OF TAIL AND MANE. 

In order to thicken the mane or tail, wash well 
with soft water and castile soap, then dampen with 
common coal oil, one part, and whiskey, two parts 
This will also prevent rubbing. Brush often with a soft- 
brush, and see that the trouble is not caused by hen 
lice. To make the mane lay down smooth, or on 
either side, wet and brush it often, and plat or 
weight it. 



512 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

TO RELIEVE A CHOKING HORSE. 

Give as a drench one-half pint of fresh lard or lin- 
seed oil. Or, take a buggy whip, fasten a small sponge 
or cloth swab on the large end of it, dip this in oil or 
grease, and and run it down the animal's throat. A 
method recommended for horses choked on water, is, 
stand squarely in front of the animal, take a firm 
hold on its ears with both hands, place one foot in the 
hollow of its breast, not high enough to interfere with 
its wind. This should be done quite cautiously, and 
when you are ready, pull suddenly with the hands, 
and push with the foot. You will be surprised at the 
result. The water on which the horse choked must go 
one way or the other. This treatment will not hurt 
the horse, and the beauty of it is, it can be applied 
at any time without delay. 

BROKEN TAIL. 

Occasionally a horse meets with an accident that 
causes its tail to be broken, which very much dis- 
figures it unless it is cared for. To do this put a good 
wide surcingle around them in front, and another 
around at the flanks. Now put a collar on the animal 
and fasten it and the front surcingle together by the 
use of straps, at the side, and on top the weathers, to 
prevent the surcingle from slipping back. Procure a 
flexible hickory or white oak splint about four feet 
long. Fasten this to the two surcingles, and let it 
project back over the tail. Bandage the tail tightly 
where broken, with leather, sewing the leather together 
on top; then elevate the tail well and fasten it to the 
end of the splint, by using strips of muslin. Bathe 
it often with water or the cooling lotion to keep down 
the fever and swelling, or apply the Golden Liniment. 

LOCK JAW. 

This is a terrible disease that affects the entire 
muscular system. Its cause cannot always be ac_ 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 513 

counted for, but is often caused by a wound, which 
may result in an immediate attack, or some time 
afterwards. 

Symptoms: The animal is nervous and becomes 
excited upon the approach of any one. It stands day 
after day, (if it lives,) in the same position, and can- 
not eat from the fact that the jaws are immovable. 

Treatment: Give a double dose of the Colic Cure in 
one gill of water, by drenching it through the nostrils, 
which can be done by elevating the head well. Im- 
mediately afterwards give as a drench 

Raw Linseed Oil, one quart; 
Croton Oil, twenty drops; 
Calomel, two drachms. 

If relief is not obtained in three or four hours repeat 
the treatment. If it is caused by a wound, apply the 
foot dressing, or an onion poultice to the wound to 
start supperation. As soon as the animal recovers 
sufficient to eat, feed soft steamed food or gruels. 
Often it is necessary to give gruels containing some 
whiskey as a drench in order to strengthen the patient. 

BIG HEAD OR JAW. 

This disease is prevalent in the South and west of 
the Mississippi River, but is not often met with in the 
Northeastern States. It is difficult to attribute its 
cause to any particular thing, but it is supposed to be 
caused by defective nutrition or lack of bone-producing 
material. Symptoms : A bony tumor or enlargement 
forms between the nostril and eyes, called big head, or 
upon the jaw, called big jaw. 

Treatment: When it first makes its appearance in 
either place, it can be checked by treating it the same 
as for fistula, and giving night and morning the Con- 
dition powder in soft food, and once or twice a day a 
tablespoonful of tincture of iron in a gallon or more of 



514 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

water. In chronic cases supperation frequently has to 
be resorted to. For this purpose use the May apple 
liniment, or bore a hole in the enlargement with a 
gimlet, then take a piece of May apple root, form a 
piece an inch or more long that will fit in the gimlet 
hole and insert it. This will start supperation and 
often effect a cure; but this should not be done unless 
the first treatment fails after a thorough trial. Horses 
thus affected, or those affected with ring-bone, curby 
or spavined hocks, or those whose wind is badly affected 
from the effects of epizootic or distemper, should never 
be used as breeders, especially in breeding fast horses, 
as such diseases are more or less hereditary, and any 
i severe exertion is liable to cause them to appear. 

PARTURITION. 

The natural presentation in birth of young animals 
is when both fore feet are presented at the same time, 
with the head lying extended between them; or when 
both hind feet are presented, thus forming a gradual 
wedge with an easy delivery, rarely needing any assist- 
ance from man. In some cases one fore foot or hind 
foot only is presented; or the fore feet may be pre- 
sented, with the head turned on the side, over the 
back, or doubled on the breast. In cases of this kind 
assistance is necessary to save the life of the dam, or 
at least severe injury. To give assistance, oil the hand 
and insert it until the knees or hocks are felt; if 
doubled, partially return them until they can be 
straightened. When the head is in the wrong position 
partially return it until it can be straightened, then 
give assistance, always aiding when the animal strains, 
pulling downward as well as backward. Very fre- 
quently it is necessary to attach a rope to the legs, or 
a hook in the eye socket or jaw, in order to give 
assistance, and it may then take the force of two or 
three men. When it is necessary to cut away the 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 515 

limbs in order to save the dam, the amputation must 
be either at the hips or shoulders. The dissected parts 
being taken away, the balance will follow easily. When 
it is necessary to turn the young, always turn it down, 
not up. If flooding follows the delivery, apply cold 
water to the loins, and give injection of alum water. 
If the after birth is retained, oil and insert the hand 
and remove it with the fingers. When protrusion of 
the womb occurs, generally it turns wrong side out. 
To replace it, wash it off well with castile soap and 
luke warm water; oil it, then gently press from the 
center with the fingers, constantly working from out- 
side to center, and it will soon go back to its natural 
position, and in most cases remain without any arti- 
ficial restraint. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE WOMB. 

If this sets in it will cause shivering fits, and 
colicky pains, arching of the loins, vulva red and 
swollen, accompanied by a fetid discharge. In cases 
of this kind the womb is dilated with a fluid, and 
highly inflamed. This fluid must be drawn with a 
catheter, through which must be injected a wash of 
warm water, one quart, and laudanum, one ounce. When 
much fever prevails give fifteen drops of aconite at a 
dose every hour until relief is obtained. 

DISEASES OR INJURIES OF COLTS. 

Colts are troubled more or less with certain dis- 
eases, such as costiveness or diarrhoea, and those of 
the urinary organs, which often prove fatal. Treat- 
ment: When colts are only a day or so old, they 
should be closely watched to see if their passages are 
natural. If constipated, take a piece of tallow candle 
two inches long, split it, point one piece and carefully 
insert it in the anus, or give an injection of oil. If 
this fails to give relief, give as a drench raw flax-seed 



516 VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR HORSES. 

oil, one gill; croton oil, five drops. If the bowels are 
loose give as an injection 

Of water, one-half pint; 
Laudanum, teaspoonful; 
Charcoal, tablespoonful. 

For older colts, increase the dose; give the mother 
good, sweet food of the nature the colt requires. If 
they cannot pass water, give one tablespoonful of sweet 
spirits of niter. In case of injury to the navel by the 
string being torn off too close up — causing the water 
to leak out — cover the navel with cotton, over which 
pour collodion* This will form a coating, and can be 
kept in place by a wide muslin bandage pinned 
around the colt, which should be looked after every 
day and not allowed to become too tight. Where the 
navel string is not torn off too close up, tie a string 
around it. 

WOUNDS OR CUTS. 

All bad wounds or cuts should be immediately 
sewed up. This is very easy to do, by putting a twitch 
on the nose of the horse, or in some instances hobbles 
may have to be put on to prevent them kicking, or else 
thrown and fastened ; then by the use of a silk thread 
and a spraying needle the wound can easily be closed; 
after which take lard and sufficient turpentine to cut it 
well, and keep oiled, or use the Golden Liniment, which 
will cause the wound to slough off, and heal nicely 
without scarring. In a great many cases it can be 
quickly healed with a carbolic acid wash; 

Water, one quart; 

Carbolic Acid, one tablespoonful. 

Keep bathed. Or by the use of arnica, which is very 
valuable; or 

Vaseline, one ounce; 
Carbolic Acid, thirty drops. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



VETERINARY DEPARTMENT FOR CATTLE 
AND SHEEP. 



Sore Eyes- Milk Fever — Garget — Black-Leg — Pleuropneumonia, 
Etc., With Cattle; Grub -Scab -Foot Rot, Etc., With Sheep. 



SORE EYES. 




DISEASE called sore eyes has prevailed to some 
extent among the American cattle of late years. 
The disease attacks herds very suddenly and 
without apparent cause, and seems to be infectious or 
contagious, both eyes become very sore, and frequently 
they go blind in one or both. It, like the epizootic 
with horses, spreads throughout the country and 
causes considerable trouble. To treat this, separate 
the sound from the unsound and from the building or 
yards where the disease has appeared. Give the af- 
fected a half pound of the Scotch Powder at a feed in 
wet bran once a day, and bathe the eyes with the 
arnica wash for the eye. If possible, keep the animal 
affected, in a dark place during the day, or attach a 
cloth to the horns so it will hang down over the eyes. 
Some bleed below the eye, or apply a fly blister to the 
cheek ; either, or both are beneficial. Great precaution 
should be used to prevent the spreading of this dis- 
ease among the rest of the herd, or to the sheep. With 
common inflammation, or injure to the eye, with 
cattle or sheep, treat the same as with horses. 



518 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND RHEEP. 

SCOTCH POWDER. 

Epsom Salts, three pounds; 
Sodo, two pounds; 
Ginger, one pound; 
Charcoal, two pounds; 
Sulphate of Iron, one pound; 
Powdered Resin, one pound; 
Flax-seed Meal, two pounds. 

Mix thoroughly. Dose, one tablespoonful to one-half 
pound, as directed. This powder is very valuable to 
use with all kinds of stock, for the following diseases: 
With horses, for colds, distemper, epizootic, urinary 
trouble, or loss of appetite. With cattle, for hoven, 
dry, or bloody murrain. With sheep, for hoven, colds, 
catarrh, and in all cases of constipation, or dysentary 
trouble, inflammation of the bowels, or kidneys. Also 
all milk trouble, such as milk fever, garget, and in- 
flamed bag with any kind of stock. 

HOVEN. 

For hoven with cattle, take 

Powdered Charcoal, one-half pint; 
Turpentine, one tablespoonful; 
Aconite, thirty drops. 

Put it in a quart of water and give as a drench. Hold 
the mouth open with the hand a minute and the wind 
will escape as from a bellows. In case the articles 
named cannot be had immediately, give the Scotch 
Powder, one pint; or, the Charcoal; or, soot from a 
stove, and the Turpentine as directed. For sheep use 
the same treatment, only one-fourth the amount. 

MILK FEVER OR GARGET. 

Garget, (caked bag) is one of the most common 
diseases among milch cows; often occurring in the 
spring, just after calving, or it may be induced by 
high feeding at other times, or even when running on 
good grass later in the summer; and it may be induced 
by efforts to dry off a cow too rapidly. Symptoms 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 519 

and treatment: The udder is hot, swollen, and very 
tender. First one teat will become hard, then the 
others. The best remedy is to bathe the udder fre- 
quently with hot vinegar and salt, rubbing it gently 
with the hand; then make a fire with corn cobs or 
chips in an iron pot, take a large cloth, and put one 
end up around the udder, letting the other end hang 
down around the pot, thus smoking it well. One or 
two applications will give relief. Give in soft food 
one-half pint of Scotch or Condition Powder, or in ab- 
sence of this, the same amount of epsom salts once or 
twice a day until the fever is reduced, then give less 
for a day or two as they may require it. The better 
plan is to adopt preventive measures. Examine the 
udder frequently before calving, and if it becomes 
filled with milk it should be drawn out. Avoid over 
feeding with milk producing foods ; feed sparingly with 
fresh hay, and milk her frequently after calving. 

MILK FEVER AND ITS CAUSE. 

The conditions under which milk fever exists, or is 
caused, are various. The disease is seldom observed 
in the cow before the age of five years. It is more fre- 
quently found to attack animals in a plethoric condi- 
tion. It more frequently affects the pure breeds than 
others, and is also more fatal with them. It seldom 
occurs subsequent to three days before calving, but 
occurs, as a rule, after calving, and previous attacks 
favor its recurrence. Although the ew T e and sow are 
sometimes affected with the disease, and occasionally 
the mare, it is more prevalent with the cow than any 
other class of animals, and undoubtedly is a local in- 
flammation of the womb, which rapidly extends to 
other parts until the entire system is affected, and true 
puerperal or milk fever ensues. Symptoms: The ani- 
mal becomes restless and uneasy, the eyes are red, the 
horns and head hot; the cow is irritable and dashes 



520 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

her head about, sometimes with such force as to break 
her horns. 

Treatment: The disease is not to be trifled with. 
As soon as the symptoms are noticed give as a drench 

Epsom salts, one pound; 
Raw linseed oil, one pint. 

As the bowels must be opened. Cover the entire body 
with a wet sheet or blanket and give the colic cure, 
thirty drops at a dose every half hour until relief is 
given If necessary, repeat the dose of salts and oil in 
two hours until relief is obtained. Then feed soft food 
with the Scotch powders as they may require it. If 
their bowels are loose and regular it will require but 
little, if not, use it freely- Keep the milk drawn off by 
milking often. A pint of raw linseed oil given the day 
before calving will prevent this dreaded disease. An- 
other cure, which Mr. William Hartley, of Wisconsin, 
says he has used with good success, is 

Lard, one and one-half pints; 
Coal oil, one-half pint; 
New milk, warm, one pint. 

Mix and give as a drench, and repeat in two or three 
hours. It has never failed to effect a cure in the ten 
cases I have known it to be used." This, no doubt, 
is very good and worth trying, especially where the 
other cannot be adopted, as others, as well as Mr. 
Hartley, say they have used it with success. 

ABORTION WITH COWS. 

Abortion or premature birth among cattle is con- 
sidered a disease, and by some a contagious one. The 
calf is invariably lost, and not infrequently the cow. 
If the cow survives, she is almost sure to drop her nexj 
calf at about the same period. Some have great faith 
in preventing this and other contagious diseases with 
horses and cattle by keeping a goat about the barn. I 
have more faith in asafoetida given in teaspoonful 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLP AND SHEEP. 521 

doses once or twice a month. Asafoetida is known as 
a powerful antispasmodic, preventing convulsions, 
spasms and other nervous diseases. A month be- 
fore the expected return time, in case a cow once 
loses her calf, it may be well to give her and other 
ones that are heavy with calf, some attention, for where 
this occurs, very often it is on account of some local 
trouble, and calls for a change of food and care. If a 
cow slinks her calf she, as well as all evidence of the 
trouble, should be removed from the rest of the herd 

at once. 

cow POX. 

This disease may appear spontaneously among the 
cows on the farm or in a neighborhood; or may be 
communicated by the hands of the milkers from one 
cow to another. It seldom proves fatal, but, while it 
lasts, it may occasion considerable inconvenience, on 
account of the discharges and the inflammation of the 
bag and teats, which often occur in this disease. In 
the beginning of the disease, give soft and cooling food, 
and a laxative of half a pound of Epsom Salts, or the 
Scotch powder to purify the blood. Bath the udder with 
warm vinegar and salt, and smoke as for garget. The 
milk should be drawn often, and, on account of the 
great soreness of the teats, as well as to avoid injuring 
or breaking the skin, the milk should be withdrawn by 
means of a milking tube, carefully inserted. After the 
milk is drawn, bathe the sores with Golden Liniment or 
raw linseed oil. To prevent it spreading, always milk 
the affected cows last, or wash the hands well before 
milking other cows This is something that is more or 
less troublesome in every dairy, and with farmers that 
keep very many cows. 

CHOKE. 

When an animal is choked, very frequently it can 
be told where the choke is, by its action. With high 



522 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

choke, the animal holds its head very high and often 
strikes with its front feet; while with low choke, it holds 
its head lower and keeps more quiet. Treatment: Give 
as a drench some oil, then, if possible, get the animal 
to eat some soft, wet food. This will cause it to swal- 
low, and thus often remove it. If this fails for high 
choke, very often, if it is an apple, it can be felt, and 
mashed by holding some solid article against it on one 
side and striking it with a mallet on the other side, or 
by taking the large end of a buggy whip and fastening 
a sponge or cloth swab to it, dip this in oil, and push 
it down the throat. In fact, this is about the only 
remedy for low choke. To prevent choke, be careful in 
feeding apples, roots, or pumpkins, and keep the cattle 
out of the apple orchard. 

EGAT, SMUT POISON OR MURRAIN. 

These diseases are of frequent occurrence with cat- 
tle, and often prove fatal, either by permanent injury 
or death. In the corn growing districts they occur 
more frequently in the fall of the year than any other 
season, and the probability is, that nineteen out of 
every twenty of such cattle so found dead, died from 
one or both of two prominent causes with which smut 
was not even remotely connected One of these is the 
gorging of the animal's stomach with an enormous 
quantity of highly stimulating food, much of it difficult 
of digestion, directly after their having been kept on 
meager, frost-bitten pasturage, or the scant nourish- 
ment of a straw stack, which was to tide them over 
from grass to such time as the corn would be out o^ 
the field. Such a sudden and violent change could 
scarcely do otherwise than dimoralize the entire diges- 
tive system, and death, equally sudden, violent, and 
unlooked for, ensues. The other prominent cause is 
the eating largely of dry, frosted grass, forest leaves, or 
the woody, fibrous corn stalks and shucks — more es- 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 523 

pecially the former — later in the season when the bet- 
ter portion of the food has been consumed and but 
little else remains, and insufficient water is taken to 
soften and float it up, as it must be before the process 
of digestion can be completed; the mass comes to a 
stand-still, owing to impaction, forms a sort of block- 
ade in the manifolds of the third stomach, inflamma- 
tion sets in, and the animal becomes very sick, and 
often past help. 

Treatment: As soon as the trouble is observed, 
which can be told by the animal separating from the 
herd, becoming restless, lying down, then arising and 
moving slowly about, standing with a staring look, 
suddenly starting forward, and in doing so, often fall 
upon its knees ; something must be done immediately if 
you wish to save the animal. The first result to be 
obtained is a physic. This can be obtained by giving 

Lard, one quart; or 
Raw Linseed Oil, one quart; or 
Brewers' Yeast, one quart; or 
Epsom Salts, one pint, and 
Raw Linseed Oil, one quart. 

Either preparation given as a drench. The latter I 
consider by far the best. If the animal seems to be 
suffering with much pain, give the usual dose of the 
Colic Cure, or twice the amount of laudanum. In case 
there is any suspicion that the other cattle are affected, 
give the Scotch powder in soft wet feed twice a day for 
a day or two, to prevent any further trouble. 

BLACK-LEG 

Is a contagious disease that occurs among young cattle 
occasionally, often destroying whole herds, and spreads 
over an entire neighborhood unless such means are 
used as will check it. One of the peculiarities of the 
disease is that it generally attacks the most thrifty 
animals first. It is a very fatal disease; the animal 



524 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

often being found dead in the field before notice has 
been had of its being sick. There is no doubt but 
what it is, to some extent, caused by the same cause as 
murrain. 

Symptoms: High fever, lameness, excessive tender- 
ness of the skin in spots, with deposits of black tar 
like blood, and gas among the tissues, which give 
forth a crackling sound when the spot is pressed upon 
by the hand. The disease takes different forms, some- 
times a bloody discharge oozes out of the sore, while 
again they dry up and crack open, or it may take an 
internal form, with bloody discharges from nostrils, 
dung or urine, the same as one form of the swine 
disease, and like it, soon proves fatal. 

Treatment: Like cholera, swine fever in its worst 
form, but little can be done for it, except to treat the 
more mild cases, and adopt such measures as will pre- 
vent its spreading. Separate the sick from the well 
ones, and bury the discharges of the sick, and burn 
the carcasses of the dead. Give the well ones soft food 
twice a day, in which use the Scotch powder. Some 
recommend inserting a seton six inches long, wet with 
turpentine. Discontinue any treatment as soon as the 
danger is past. Give the affected ones the Scotch 
powder in larger doses, and also insert the seton wet 
with turpentine and bathe the sores or any swoolen 
parts with any good stimulating liniment, and avoid 
the use of the milk or meat of all affected animals. 

FOOT AND MOUTH DISEASES. 

Frequently cattle are troubled with sore feet and 
mouths; become very lame or weak, and, if allowed 
to go uncared for, soon depreciate in flesh, or milk, and 
in that way prove a loss to their owner. With sore 
feet, the animal is generally attacked in the hind feet 
first, and they become very sore between the hoofs which 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 525 

can be observed by the animal shaking the feet and 
refusing to stand upon them. 

Treatment: Clean and keep dry and apply the 
wash the same as for rot in sheep, or the Dexter liniment. 
Or run boiling hot tar into the sore, repeating every 
day until well. 

Treatment for sore mouth, the same as for sore 
mouth with horses. 

PLEURO-PNEUMONIA. 

This terrible disease among cattle, which has caused a 
loss of many millions of dollars among the cattle raisers 
of some of the foreign countries, has begun to gain a 
foot-hold among the dairy districts of America, and is 
to be feared as much or more than the swine plauge. 
It is c used by a paracite germ, the same as other con- 
tagious diseases, and by damp, filthy stables and yards, 
and is very contagious, and certain death. There 
seems to be no mode of treatment yet discovered, that 
proves successful, except to kill the affected animals 
and disinfect the stables and premises thoroughly; then 
quarantine the farm or neighborhood to prevent any 
animals that may have been exposed to the disease 
from being sent abroad. This is a sensible, effectual 
and lawful way of contending with this dreaded dis- 
ease, and one that should be thoroughly enforced by 
the American people before it has gained a strong 
hold, for then it may be too late. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

With a poor and dilapidated, or hide-bound cow 
brute, treat the same as for a horse in the same condi- 
tion. Feed well with rich soft food, and use twice a 
day the Condition or Scotch powders to cleanse the 
blood, tone the system, and aid the digestive organs. 
If in the winter or early spring, a good warm dry sta- 
ble will be found to be very beneficial. 



526 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

URINARY TROUBLE. 

Cows are just as much subject to urinary trouble 
as horses, which can be told in the same way by their re- 
peated efforts to stale, but unable to do so. To treat 
this give as a drench, sweet spirits of niter, one ounce; 
water, one pint, and use the Condition powder in soft 
feed. 

SCOURS WITH CALVES OR LAMBS. 

To check this trouble, take sweet milk, put it over 
the fire long enough to come to a boiling heat. Let it 
cool to blood heat, to one gallon of the milk add a cup 
of wheat flour, one tablespoonful of ginger, and one fresh 
egg. Give as a drink twice or three times in one day. 

GRUB IN SHEEP. 

An intelligent shepherd gives the treatment for this 
trouble, which he guarantees to work, if the sheep are not 
to far gone: As a cure, pour a few drops of turpentine 
in their ear; and to prevent this trouble, every year 
about the first week in June, tar their noses well, and 
give them a tablespoonful of the tar internally Repeat 
the operation in July, August and September. If this 
advice is followed there will be no trouble with the 
grub. For catarrh, use the Scotch powder once a day 
for a short time, and give the sheep good dry quarters 
and good feed. 

THE MAGGOT. 

The maggot, so called, is a formidable enemy of the 
sheep. The eggs that form them are deposited by the 
common blue fly. When sheep are wounded by acci 
dent, or are allowed to become filthy when troubled 
with diarrhoea, the eggs or larva are deposited in vast 
numbers; the maggots soon become active, and spread- 
ing from their quarters attack the skin, which they 
irritate and cause the secretion of a serious fluid In 
time the skin is pierced, and the flesh supparates and 
wastes away, being devoured by the multitude of mag- 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 527 

gots which crawl upon it. In wet seasons the mischief 
is greatly increased. To prevent them it is necessary 
to carefully remove the wool from about the tail, so 
that filth may not gather; watch for any accidental 
wound, and in warm wet weather, for any dirty tags 
of wool upon which the flies may deposit eggs. In 
case any maggots are found, there is no better applica- 
tion than common crude petroleum and turpentine, both 
of which are repulsive and fatal to fly and maggot. 
A sheep that is " struck " with maggots will remain 
separate trom the flock, and may be lost sight of unless 
the flock is counted and the straggler found. Weaning 
time, when the ewes may suffer from caked udder, is 
an especially critical period; then extra watchful- 
ness is called for, and the udder should be bathed with 
lard and camphor. 

SCAB IN SHEEP. 

Scab or itch with sheep is a contagious disease that 
shepherds have to contend with in all sheep growing 
districts. It can first be observed by the sheep rub- 
bing against any projecting body within reach. As it 
becomes worse, the sheep bite and scratch themselves 
until they become raw in places. Upon examination 
white or hard spots will be found, often from which a 
yellow substance oozes out, and adheres to the wool. 
There is no treatment that will prove effectual, except 
one that will destroy the parasite and the eggs; 
the best treatment for this is a strong decoction of 
tobacco and sulphur, used as a dip or wash at blood 
heat. This, if thoroughly applied once or twice is an 
effectual remedy. And with small flocks, where they 
can be handled, the mixture of lard, coal oil and 
carbolic acid, as spoken of in this work, for surfeit or 
mange, thorougnly applied, will quickly effect a cure. 

In making the tobacco mixture, good tobacco should 
be used, either the stems or the entire plant, and the 



528 VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 

mixture should be made moderately strong, with both 
tobacco and sulphur, and thoroughly applied It is 
utterly needless for a careless sheep owner or superin- 
tendent to attempt to cure scab, or any other conta- 
gious disease with animals; but those, however, who 
will take the necessary pains, can always exterminate 
most any disease. To rid the flock or herd of any con- 
tagious disease, the dead should be destroyed by bury- 
ing deep or burning them, and the premises as thor- 
oughly renovated as possible. 

Ticks on sheep can be destroyed by the aforenamed 
treatments. 

HOOF OR FOOT ROT. 

Hoof or foot rot in sheep is another very contagious 
disease that sheep men have to contend with, and 
which is very hard to exterminate. It maintains itself 
year after year alike on wet or dry land, and cannot be 
eradicated except with considerable labor and skill 
Anyone buying sheep should always be on their 
guard for this annoying and contagious disease, and 
upon no consideration whatever allow sheep brought 
upon the farm that are affected with it or that show 
lameness. To cure this disease, clean and pare the feet 
thoroughly, and apply a strong solution of tobacco and 
blue vitrol with a mop; or prepare a sufficient quantity 
in a long, narrow trough and walk them through it. 
Keep the feet clean and dry, and repeat the operation 
once or twice within a week. The preparation of the 
foot is just as essential as the remedy, for if every part 
of the disease is not laid bare the remedy will not 
effect a cure. A strong solution of blue vitrol and to- 
bacco, made as hot as the hand can bear, having the 
liquid three or four inches deep, or deep enough to 
cover all the affected parts will, by holding the dis- 
eased foot in this liquid long enough to penetrate to all 
the diseased parts, and keeping the sheep on a dry 



VETERINARY, FOR CATTLE AND SHEEP. 



529 



barn floor a few hours to give it a chance to take 
effect, is said to be a sure cure when the foot is thor- 
oughly prepared. 

Fields that diseased sheep have been running in 
should not be used for sheep for some time, and it 
would be better if they were cultivated before being 
used for that purpose again. Prevention is better 
than a cure, and the diseases and parasites to which 
sheep are subject can be prevented more easily than 
they can be cured after they once commence their 
depredations on the flock. Want of care is the prolific 
cause of accident and disease among stock. The 
master's eye or the owner's solicitude are proverbially 
preventatives against trouble or waste; but if the 
master or the owner will not trouble himself to 
exercise the watchful care needed, we may be sure no 
one else will 

In closing this work I respectfully invite all honest 
criticism, as well as correspondence and patronage, 
and will cheerfully furnish reference to all w T ho may 
desire it, of the many I have worked for or sold my 
book to; and, as they belong to the enterprising stock- 
growing people of this country, they can be relied 
upon in their evidence. 




INDEX. 



SWINE DEPARTMENT. 



PAGE. 

Author's treatment 202 

Bath-box for hogs 144 

Berkshires 32 

Black teeth 214 

Blood poison 210 

Blind staggers 207 

Boar, discription of... ..... 45 

Boar, his care 55, 98 

Boar, selection of 42 

Breeding time 45 

Breed of hogs to use 37 

Brines for meat . . . 134, 135 

Butchering 124, 126, 127 

Castrating pigs 69 

Catarrh with pigs 208 

Chester Whites 28 

Chinese hog 35 

Characteristics of hogs . . . 108, 110 

Cholera, what is it 163 

Cholera, worst in summer. . 177 

Cholera, affects on lungs 170 

Cholera, causes of 152, 185 

Cholera proof 153, 213 

Cholera, how to prevent. 179, 193, 

198, 212 

Cleaning intestines 129 

Corn, its value as food. .37, 52, 83 

Cooking food 53, 84 

Commence feeding corn 80 

Color, its value 97, 113 

Confining hogs 156 

Cutting, curing meats. . . .131, 132 

Cutting up hogs 130 

Danger, barns, sewers, ma- 
nure, etc 157, 175 



PAGE. 

Dead hogs 165 

Death of hogs 170 

Diseased hogs 183, 199 

Disinfectants 178 

Diphtheria, sore throat 205 

Drenching hogs 195 

Durrocks, Jersey Red 31 

Essex 34 

Errors in feeding 154 

Experiments in feeding hogs. 89 

Exhibition of swine 104 

Exposure to disease 166 

External application 196 

Exercise and air 189 

Fattening swine 74, 78 

Feeding swine 152, 158 

Feeding hogs for special pur- 
pose 87 

Fine pigs, their care 96 

First swine disease . . . , 23 

Founder 207 

Germ Theory 24, 172 

Germs, vitality of 174 

General treatment 186, 193 

Government investigations . . 168 

How to form a breed 110 

Houses or pens for hogs 136 

Importations of swine .... 21 

Improvement of swine .... 23, 27 

Improve your stock 106 

Inflammation of the brain . . . 207 



532 . 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

In-and-in breeding 112 

Investigations, swine disease. 168 

Injections 195 

Incurable cases 200 

Jersey Red, Durock. . . 31 

Judging hogs 43 

Kidney disease, Paralysis. 206 

Lard, how to prepare it 131 

Litters, number a year. . .46, 48 

Lice 210, 211 

Local diseases 206 

Magie hog 28, 29 

Mange 210 

Medicines, when they fail... 187 

Medicines, directions 200 

Moveable hog houses 146 

Mixed husbandry 54, 77 

Pasture, rye 118, 119 

Paralysis, kidney disease.... 206 

Pens, objections to 176 

Pens, designs.. .139, 142, 145, 146 

Pedigreed swine 91, 113 

Pigs, wintering them 49, 81 

Pigs, their food 52 

Pigs, for clover 51 

Pigs, teaching to eat 60 

Pigs, when sucking 64 

Pigs, robbing each other 60 

Pigs, their care 70 

Pigs, weaning' 68, 72 

Piles with hogs 208 

Pigs, castrating 69 

Poland China 28, 100 

Pools or streams 164 

Pneumonia, lung fever 205 

Profit of swine breeding. . . 100 

Preventives 179, 193, 198, 212 

Purely bred swine. ...... .91, 94 

Rack for hanging hogs 125 

Registers 93 

Rheumatism 197, 207 

Ringing hogs 120 

Roots and vegetables 114 



PAGE. 

Salt for hogs 213 

Sausage, how to prepare it. . . 131 

Scours 209 

Show pens 95 

Shelter for hogs 50, 56, 82 

Sick hogs, separation 188 

Sick hogs, death of 170 

Sick hogs, how to feed 190 

Sick hogs with diarrhoe 194 

Smut poison 214 

Snuffles with pigs 208 

Sows, farrowing 72 

Sows, how to feed 57, 59 

Sows, breeding 45, 102 

Sows, selection of 40 

Sows, their care 56, 103 

Sows, diseased 199 

Sore throat, diphtheria 205 

Stock catcher 121 

Straw, manure, and dust 157 

Suffolk 34 

Swine, benefactors 22 

Swine, improvement of . . .23, 27 
Swine Fever, how it affects 

the lungs 170 

Swine breeding 39, 99 

Swine, purely bred 94 

Swill for sick hogs 191 

Swine disease, its character. . 163 
Swine disease, its treatment. . 

183, 186 

Swill, how to prepare it 52 

Sweating pigs ! 209 

Theoretical and practical 

ideas 180 

Thumps or palpitation 204 

Troughs for hogs 150, 191 

Trichinae 160 

Victorias 33 

Weaning Pigs 68, 72 

Wheat for hogs 154 

Worms, intestine, lung. . .172, 209 

Yorkshire 34 



INDEX. 



533 



POULTRY DEPARTMENT. 



PAGE. 

Cholera, its treatment 250 

Cull the flock 229 

Diseased poultry 259 

Dominicks 225 

Ducks 244 

Eggs, good or bad 240 

Eggs, medicated 241 

Eggs, how to keep them 241 

Eggs, their weight 242 

Fattening turkeys 248 

Feeding fowls 231 

Game fowls 229 

Gapes 253 

Geese 246 

Houses for fowls 237 

Incubators 230 

Improve the fowls 222 

Improved breeds 221 

Light Brahamas 222 



PAGE. 

Lice 242 

Nests for fowls 235 

Old Blue Hen 223 

Partridge Coachin 233 

Plymouth Rocks 224 

Poultry raising 217 

Poultry investments 225 

Poultry, selection of 227 

Poultry diseases 249 

Poultry, suggestions 219 

Poultry in garden 236 

Roup 253 

Sunflower Seed. , 237 

Sick fowls 250 

Scurvey Legs 254 

Turkeys 247 

Turkeys, how to feed 248 



SHEEP DEPARTMENT. 



PAGE. 

Breeding sheep 261 

Coupling season 263 

Cotswolds 265, 268, 273 

Ewes, when to breed 264 

Feeding, care of sheep. . 272, 275 
Foot rot 528 

Grub in sheep 526 

Hampshires — Downs 269 

Lambs, their care 267 

Lambs, Castrating 267 



PAGE. 

Lambs, weaning 268 

Maggots in sheep 526 

Merinos 270 

Mutton as food 262 

Mutton, Breeds 268 

Ram, selection of 264 

Scours with lambs 526 

Scab in sheep 527 

Sheep husbandry 257 

Sheep, their food 260 

Sheep as foragers 260 

Sheep, breeding 263, 275 

Sheep, feeding and care. .274, 277 
South Downs 269 



534 



INDEX. 



CATTLE DEPARTMENT. 



PAGE. 

Aberdeen— Polled Angus... 285 

Abortion 520 

American Cattle Industry... 280 

Alderney 289 

Ayrshire 289 

Black-leg 523 

Breeders, how to select 295 

Bull, his care 314 

Butter making 339 

Butter packing 342 

Calves, removing 317 

Calves, first year 319 

Calves, scours 526 

Choke 521 

Controling influence 296 

Cows, noted milkers 289 

Cows, their care 315 

Cows, how to judge them. . . 329 

Cows, stabled 331 

Cows, feeding, milking 336 

Cow pox 521 

Cows, how to buy 330 

Cows, improper milking. .... 317 

Cuts and wounds 516 

Dairying 325 

Dairy cattle 326 

Egat, smut poison, murrain. 522 
Eyes, sore 517 

Feeding cattle 305 

Feeding upon grass 310 

Feet, sore 524 

Freisian or Holland 286, 327 

Galloways 285 

Garget 518 

Gurnseys 289 



PAGE. 

Growing and feeding cattle. . 305 

Handling stock 298 

Herefords 285 

Heifers, age to calve 321 

Hide bound 525 

Holstein or Holland. 286, 327 

Hoven 518 

Influence of parents 296 

In-and-in Breeding 299 

Jerseys 289, 328 

Kicking cows 323 

Milk fever, garget 518 

Milk fever, its cause 519 

Milking cows 317, 336 

Mouth, sore 524 

Murrain 522 

Polled Angus, Aberdeen... 285 
Pleuro-pneumonia 525 

Scours in calves 526 

Scotch Powder 518 

Selecting feeders 312 

Short-Horns 281, 283 

Shelter for cattle 306 

Show herds... 298 

Steers, noted 292 

Stock raising profitable 302 

Sore eyes 517 

Sore mouth and feet 524 

Unruly milkers 323 

Uniary trouble 526 

Water during winter 308 

Wounds and cuts 516 

Womb, injured 515 



INDEX. 



535 



HORSE DEPARTMENT. 



PAGE. 

Aberdeen . 384 

Almont 384 

American trotter 354, 425 

Ancient horse 346 

Atrophy 499 

Bashaws, Clays, Patchens. . . 362 

Barshoes 450 

Balky horses 478 

Bellfounder, Imp 358 

Belmont 385 

Birth given 514 

Big head or jaw 513 

Blue Bull 382 

Bleeding a horse 493 

Blind staggers 492 

Botts 486 

Boils, collar, etc 501 

Breeding rules 373, 429 

Breeding draft horses 400 

Breeding horses 372 

Breeding trotting horses 377 

Brood mares, pacers 377 

Brood mares, noted 387 

Brood mare families 388 

Brood mares, care 427, 431 

Brain fever 492 

Callouses 505 

Canker 509 

Carriage horses 411 

Canadian Kanuck 347 

Choking horses 512 

Chills or colds 489 

Clays 362 

Clydesdale 368, 403 

Cleansing powders 508 

Cleveland Bay 368 

Colts, weaning 432 

Colts, castrating 434 

Colts, shoeing 450 

Colts, education 463, 467 

Colts or kickers 471 

Colt, stop or stand 469 

Colt, how to halter 467 



PAGE. 

Colt, bitting it 468 

Colt, to mount 470 

Colt, in shafts 471 

Colts, diseased, injured 515 

Colic, spasmodic, flatulent . . . 484 

Colds, distemper 489 

Congestion 488 

Condition Powders 508 

Cough Powder 507 

Corns 499 

Cooling lotion 504 

Corrosive Liniment , . 506 

Curbs 496 

Cuts, wounds 516 

Cribbing 496 

Daniel Lambert 385 

Dexter Liniment 508 

Diseased, injured horses 484 

Diseases, their symptoms 483 

Digestive organs 484 

Distemper 489 

Dictator 386 

Draft horse breeding 400 

Draft horses 364 

Dysentery or scours 486 

Education of horses. . .461, 463 

Education, sight, feeling 462 

Education, bad habits 465 

Edward Everett 386 

Electioneer 385 

English cart horse 368 

Epizootic, Pinkeye 490 

Errors in breeding 375 

Eye wash 503 

Eye, cataract 503 

Farcey 500 

Feet paring 447 

Feet spreading 448 

Feet stuffing 451 

Feet injured 498 

Fever Powders 507 

Fistula 494 

Founder 499 



536 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Foul sheath 488 

Founder of trotters 354 

Foreign draught horses 407 

Forging 449 

Foot oil 505 

Galls, harness, etc 501 

General purpose horse. . 410 

George Wilks 383 

General Knox 386 

Glanders 491 

Goldsmith Maid. 394 

Golden Ointment, Liniment . . 511 

Governor Sprague 385 

Grease heel 497 

Grooming horses 435, 437 

Green's Bashaw 385 

Happy Medium 386 

Heaves 491 

Healing powders 509 

Hide bound 501 

Horses, veterinary 481 

Horses, balking 478 

Horses, vicious, tricky 477 

Horses, speeding 476 

Horses, wild, unsteady 474 

Horses, education 461, 463, 473 

Horses, timid 464 

Horses, driving, walking 475 

Horses, from grass 451 

Horses, without shoes 452 

Horses, grooming, feeding. . . 435 

Horses or mules 442 

Horses, disposition 443 

Horses, kickers, runaways... 471 
Hoof, its structure 453 

Injured feet 498 

Injured horses 484 

Interfering or cutting 448 

Jay Eye See 393 

Joint water 509 

Kidneys, inflammation 488 

Lampas 497 

Legs, swelled 500 



PAGE, 

Leg or body wash 504 

Liniment, Cataract 503 

Liniment, May-apple.. 505 

Liniment, Corrosive 506 

Liniment, Dexter 508 

Liniment, Sweating ; 510 

Liniment, Golden 511 

Lice 501 

Lock-jaw 512 

Lungs, inflammation 487 

Mambrino, Chief. 359 

Mambrino, Hambletonian 360 

Mambrino, Patchen 387 

Mambrino Paymaster 359 

Maud S 393 

Mares, to be tried 421 

Mares, uncertain breeders... 422 

Mares, number served 423 

Mares, colts, care 427, 431 

Mange 500 

Mane, care of 511 

May-apple Liniment 505 

Maxy Cobb, Phallas 394 

Messsenger, Imp 354 

Messenger, sons, etc 355 

Messenger Durock 363 

Morgan family 361 

Mouth, bits for 473 

Mules or horses 442 

Normans 364 

Noted brood-mares 377, 387 

over-riding, driving 488 

Pacing Element 363 

Pacing in harness 399 

Pacing under saddle 399 

Pacing, running mate 400 

Pacers, saddlers 408 

Pacing, all ways 396 

Paring the feet 447 

Paralysis 493 

Parturition 514 

Patchens 362 

Perspiration, how produce. . . 509 

Phallas 394 

Pilot, pacing 348 



INDEX. 



537 



PAGE. 

Pinkeye, epizootic 490 

Pneumonia 487 

Powders, condition 508 

Powders, cleansing 508 

Powders, cough, fever 507 

Powders, worm 506 

Powders, healing 509 

Popular sires 382 

Poll-evil 494 

Profuse staling 488 

Princess 385 

Practical suggestions 439 

Race-course 351 

Ring-bone 496 

Rule for breeding 373, 429 

Ryskyk's Hambletonian. .356, 383 

Saddle horses 408 

Scratches 497 

Scours, dysentery 486 

Science of breeding 372 

Shire horses 368 

Shoeing . '. 445 

Shoes, bar 450 

Shoeing, hind feet 449 

Shoeing colts 450 

Shoeing off grass 451 

Shoeing, interfering 448 

Sore mouth, tongue 509 

Speed, necessary 380 

Spavin , 495 

Sprained tendons 500 

Sprained stifle, whirlbone. . . . 509 

Spreading the foot 448 

Spinal meningitis 493 

Standard horses 381 

Stuffing the feet. . 451 

Strathmore 386 

Striking the knees 449 

Stallions, introduction 414 

Stallion, feed and care 418 

Stallion, when young. 424 



PAGE. 

Stallion, management 417 

Stallion, education 419 

Stallion, effect of age 427 

Staling, profuse 488 

Stable for horse 454 

Stable, floors 457 

Stable, rack 458 

Stable, box-stalls 457 

Surfeit 500 

Sweeney 499 

Sweating liniment 510 

Swelled legs 500 

Tail, Mane, care 511 

Tail, broken 512 

Tempest, Jr 387 

Thorough-pin 495 

Thrush 497-505 

Thoroughbred 349 

Timid horse 464 

Tonic, preparation 510 

Trotting in 2:14 or less 393 

Trotting to wagon 398 

Trotting all ways 396 

Trotting double 399 

Trotting, running mate 399 

Trotting-horse breeding 377 

Trotting under saddle 398 

Tricky, vicious horses 477 

Veterinary Department . . . 481 
Volunteer 384 

Whirl-bone, sprained 510 

Whipple's Hambletonian 386 

Wind-sucking 496 

Worms, powders 506 

Womb, inflammation 515 

Wounds and cuts 516 

Wood's Hambletonian 386 

Woodford Mambrino 386 

Wolf teeth 502 

Young Columbus 387 











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